DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

gregp5 · January 2002

from Bobsyvee, do check out Tundrasolutions.com
You'll find brake horror stories galore, almost incurable front end shimmys, piston slap, sqeaks n rattles, premature interior fabric wear and a heck of a lot of terrible Dealer service or non service, if you will.
BTW....This is NOT meant to start any kind of Dodge vs Toyota thing here, just relaying what the Toyota owners are alreay saying about their trucks.
That said, I still think they make a pretty good product, BUT they have NOT re-invented the wheel as some might have us believe.

zonk · January 2002

I used to have a Toyota Tacoma extended cab, before I upgraded to a Dakota QC. I had severe tire wear problems and a pull to the right that never got fixed in the 3 years I had the truck. I also had some seat fabric wear. That said, it was good basic transportation, just too costly for the tire problems, too small and too underpowered. And the dealer didn't seem to want to fix the tire/pulling problem. But I checked out the 4 dr Tundra, too. It was OK, but it seemed very cramped in the back seats, and I did not like the back doors at all.

furrydog1 · January 2002

Well, they couldn't reproduce the starting problem in the QC. Yesterday it happened 3 times where the engine wouldn't start until we pushed the pedal to the floor and now today it starts every time for them. They ran it through the computer and started it 15 times and no problems detected. Maybe I will luck out and the problem has magically disappeared but with my track record I am sure this problem will continue. If anybody has any ideas please let me know.
One more thing... I have about 1500 miles before I change the oil so I was wondering what everybody's experience has been with this? Easy access to the filter, drain plug, etc? Thanks.

bpeebles · January 2002

(furrydog1)
If you encounter the problem again, Your dealer should be able to connect a device to your truck that monitors all activity and "logs" any failures. (such as no-start condition)

The idea is that you drive around with this device connected to your truck for a week or so and then return to your dealer. The gathered information can then be "downloaded" to your dealers diagnostic computer and anaylized. Your data can even be fed to the "main office" for further diagnosis by engineers trained to do this kind of stuff.

A failing sensor, relay or solenoid should easilly be detected using this diagnostic method.

============
I know this sounds pretty HI-TECH but keep in mind that all Dodge dealers are supposed to have the diagnostic computer and training to do this.
(It is not a lack of TECHNOLOGY but an apparent hesitation to USE the available technology that all the Dodge dealers have at their disposal.)

dragonhawk · January 2002

It might be the crankshaft position sensor; I used to have a Saturn that showed the same symptoms and that was the problem. Also, I seem to remember that 1 or 2 QC owners have posted about this.

jettug1 · January 2002

Has anyone found anybody offering a high performance chip for the 2001 dakota 4.7?
I talked to mopar and they said they would
not be developing a chip. This sux because
the truck is sporty but is restricted to 100
mph. Now I don't drive around at or above
100 mph. But occasionally I might need to
exceed that limit. If anybody has heard of
some news on performance computer products
please let me know. oh by the way I have
25,000 miles on my truck and the only
complaint other than the lack of support
on the computer is the brakes squeak
occasionally.

whiatt · January 2002

Well, my electrical problem came back today. Here is a detail symptom list:

1) Radio stays on with key out
2) Courtesy lights do not function when doors open
3) Lights on A/C control on when headlights are off, off when headlights are on
4) Cigarete/power adapter not functional when headlights are turned on, when turned off, they are functional. Eventually they stop working
5) Power door locks click at CTM, but no lock/unlock (Even with transmitter)
6) When you turn the key in between the Start and Off position, you can hear the blower motor make a whining type sound.

Anyways... Any ideas guys?

Thanks
william

kingquad1 · January 2002

SOME PEOPLE ARE FORGETTING WHAT THIS SITE IS FOR!!!! IF YOU WANT TO BUY A FORD, TOYOTA,WHATEVER, but PLEASE GO TO THEIR SITES!!!! I HAVE A 2000QC, BOUGHT IN MAY...HAVE 25000 MILES ON IT...RUN IT THRU EVERY PUDDLE I CAN FIND....MAINTAIN WHAT I CAN MYSELF...WHAT I CAN'T DO, THE DEALER DOES. NEVER HAD AN SERIOUS PROBLEMS..LOWER DOOR WEATHER SEAL IS LOOSE and the right front brake squeeks once in awhile. Maybe a few other things that have been mentioned on this site. I CAN LIVE WITH THAT!!!!SORRY TO HEAR THAT SOME PEOPLE HAVE HAD OTHER SERIOUS PROBLEMS WITH THE TRUCK AND DAIMLER CHRYSLER. NO ONE IS PERFECT.
I HAVE OWNED AND DESIGNED gm CARS AND TRUCK FOR THE PAST 18 YEARS., AND FRANKLY, I DON'T PLAN ON BUYING ANOTHER gm. BY FAIR, THIS IS BEST
4X4 I HAVE EVER HAD!!!!!IT IS A REAL PLEASURE TO DRIVE!!!
SO PLEASE, TAKE YOUR SALES PITCHES SOMEWHERE ELSE!

bookitty · January 2002

Chris, I have but one thing to say to you: Amen!

ahasher · January 2002

2000 4.7 auto QC 43,000 miles. a couple of problems fixed quick enough (crankshaft position sensor and a BBQ'ed fuse box via an aux fan relay failure and an idle issue which was finally resolved). Tires still look almost new (mostly highway commute), steers true, no brake issues. altho I know they continue to plague several folks here..NO squeaks or rattles inside, and the clearcoat keeps the shine soooooo well :-) and I still get compliments on a "great looking truck". I often open the windows on acceleration away from my house just to listen to that 4.7 make it's music...
Love my QC... but like with this site.. I wouldnt go stand in a FORD dealership and complain about Ford products ( I own a 93 E150 conversion van) and how much better I like my QC ... my point is I also get tired of the complaints here about the Dakota and how brand X is soooo much better for one reason or another.

now: IMHO...The problems people experience are unfortunate of course, but also help the rest of us learn some technical info that will help with potential maintenance issues, but, for me anyway, with preventative maintenance, and understanding how this complicated engine/tranny actually work, and what aftermarket parts do or dont work, such as plugs, thermostats, brake parts, cold air intake mods and (mopar67.. thanks for the heads up.. I will follow the TB info closely)things like TB upgrades us shadetree mechanics would do.

Ok long post but had to add my .02 worth to agree with your post (1258)... Bill

kingquad1 · January 2002

LOOKING FOR AFTERMARKET ACCESSORIES AND POTENTIAL PROBLEMS...THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT BROUGHT ME TO THIS FORUM!!! I WISH WE HAD AS MUCH INPUT LIKE IN THE BEGINNING. I'M STILL WONDERING ABOUT THOSE BOSCH PLATINUM 4 PLUGS? I ASKED AWHILE BACK, BUT NEVER RECEIVED THE ANSWERS I WAS LOOKING FOR? I HAD THE DEALER DO THE FIRST TUNEUP, COMPUTER FLASHING, FRONT END ALIGNMENT AND AUTO TRANS SERVICE. I AM TOTALLY IMPRESSED WITH THIS VEHICLE!! I STILL THINK IT LOOKS BETTER IN THE SIDE VIEW THEN THE NEW RAM(IMHO)!!!!!AND I LIKE THE NEW RAM!!!
THINGS THAT I HAVE DONE TO MY QC:ZIEBART UNDERCOATING, LINE-X BEDLINER, MOBIL 1 IN THE ENGINE, BOTH FRONT AND REAR DIFFERENTIALS AND THE TRANSFER CASE. I HAVE BEEN USING MOBIL1 SINCE 77...LOVE THE STUFF.
ALSO THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT FOR 1258.
CHRIS

kingquad1 · January 2002

MY BROTHER HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH HIS RAM! WIRE HARNESS WAS CHAFFED THRU AT A TIEDOWN IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THEY ARE HARD TO FIND ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE INTERMITTENT! I'M SURE IT WILL GET WORSE BEFORE IT GETS BETTER. SORRY, ELECTRICAL CAN BE A REAL B....!

mike_v · January 2002

Hi guys!

Great forum you have here! I'm beginning my shopping for a Dakota quad cab, and I'm looking for opinions/advice about the engine combos. I'm leaning toward a 2wd 'cause I just don't see the need for 4wd here in suburban Maryland. Quick acceleration is important for me, so I need to decide which V8. The new(er) 4.7 is surely adequate, but what about the extra torque the bigger 5.9 can deliver? I'd like an automatic and I'm thinking the 3.92 rear will be more zippy than the 3.55. LSD is a must-have.

I'll look forward hearing from y'all!

BTW, I read someone's post mentioning a '5 star' dealership, where do you find the ratings for the dealers?

Thanks a lot!

Mike

bookitty · January 2002

Mike, the 4.7 has great power and is much thriftier than the 5.9. However, if you plan to tow at maximum load levels the 5.9 certainly is a grunt. I would heartily recommend the limited slip axle (same goes for 4WD). The 3.92 does offer quicker off the line acceleration, but at a cost of additional fuel. And Mike, I have spent a great deal of time in Southern, Northern, Western and Central MD (including the Eastern Shore) and have been caught in snowstorms in all of the above. The Daimler/Chrysler web site lists 5 star dealerships. Good luck.

Bookitty

steve234 · January 2002

I agree with Bookitty about engine choices. One little note, the 4.7 is slightly quicker than the 5.9 and has a much better automatic available. I prefer 4x2, but that is a personal life choice. I spent many years behind the wheel of a jeep and firmly believe that if I cannot go there in 4x2, I'd rather be driving my recliner.

bozco12 · January 2002

have had my qc for 2 months now.. qc 4.7 auto 4x2
no complaints. 4.7 acceleration has been great. My commute is on worst freeway in houston so mpg has been disappointing 13-14mpg.
Getting ready for first oil change. Can anyone give me insight to any paticular products ex: filters, oil ect....what is big advantage with using synthetic ?

mopar67 · January 2002

Synthetic oil (or Uhl, as its pronounced in S. Indiana) has better shear properties, does not break down under high temps like dino oil, and has better pumping characteristics (ie, pumps better at lower temps)
Personally, I use purolator filters. I would stay away from Fram at all costs.
Your mileage will improve. 2 months you have had the truck; its just broken in! Give it time.

tuvtest · January 2002

I agree with Bookitty about upgrading to the 5.9 if towing is in the plan. Otherwise, in stock form, the 4.7 is quicker than the 5.9, plus gets about 40% or better milage. The short stroke of the 4.7 lets it wind up into it's powerband quite quickly plus it has the advantage of lighter weight. In numerous articles the two engines have been pitted together, and the 4.7 usally comes out on top, in fact there was one that had a Quad 4.7 against a club R/T 5.9 and the 4.7 won. Now, if you plan on modifying your engine, that's another story. There are tons of parts out there for the 5.9 as it has been around in one form or another since...forever. The aftermarket has been a little sow in developing parts for the 4.7, partially because from the factory it is a pretty good package, but there are a few coming. Hope this helps and good luck in your shopping.

txyank1 · January 2002

you have to do more to the 5.9 to get it to respond to the performance upgrades. The normal exhaust, air filter, chip (or reprogrammer) don't get you much as compared to other engines. I beleive it was Sport Truck awhile back that did a piece on this. They also did a test (maybe Sport Truck of the Year, don't remember) that included a 4.7 QC, a 5.9 R/T as well as a Silverado and Sierra 4.8 and 5.3. The GM's were Reg. cab SWB. I was quite surprised that the the 4.7 QC was even a tick quicker than the GM 5.3.

gator72 · January 2002

I love my '01 QC SLT-Plus 4.7. But, there is a minor design flaw. Dodge designed a huge opening in the lower part of the front bumper; exposing the A/C condensor. Evidently, it allows in more cool air. But, this leaves the A/C condensor vulnerable to every stone, rock and debris that bounces up off the roadbed or freeway.

A few months ago, I posted a question here looking for grille inserts for the lower part of the front bumper. No one ever responded. So, I started surfing the web.

After searching thru several websites for a lower grille insert to protect my A/C condensor, I believe I finally found the right one. I ordered it today; should be here in @ 5 days. I'll keep everyone posted.

I found it @ grillcraft.com. Their price is $129.00. But, they are the manufacturer. They directed me to their distributor (MB Motorsports) in San Diego who sold it to me for $109.95 + $9.00 shipping. Saved a few bucks. Plus, they are very helpful and friendly.

The grille comes in silver or black. I got black b/c my upper grille is also black.

FYI: Grillcraft has detailed instructions on their website on how to install the grille. Looks simple enough. I like the Grillcraft b/c it seems to cover more area. The other makers' grilles leave small gaps on both sides of their grille; (ie. stones can deflect thru). Plus, most of the other makers' grilles snap on and/or are held in place by a sophisticated rubber band!

The Grillcraft has diamond-shaped holes instead of the horizontal bars. I prefer the horizontal bars; but, this setup will probably deflect more stones and/or debris.

I'll check back with a progress report.

mike_v · January 2002

Thanks very much to each of you that chimed in with advice. I really appreciate your insight and helpfulness, it'll make me much more comfortable with my decisions. I'm looking forward now to the challenge of dealing with the salesforce....

Cheers!

Mike

brucec35 · January 2002

I would say that unless you plan to do a LOT of HEAVY towing, the 4.7L is the better choice of engine. The 5.9L I had in my Ram was fairly crude and noisy. While rated at high torque and hp levels, your "useable" amount of torque and hp seem less, since it really makes a racket when maxing out. I would assume the new engine is smoother, based on reports I've read. And the hp difference isn't that much. I have a Tundra now and its "smaller" engine seems to do a better job of towing my landscape trailer around than the Ram did. At least in day to day driving. I prefer smooth power delivery to max numbers. My 2001 Chevy Tahoe was the same. The 5.3L was stronger on paper, but didn't feel it compared to the Tundra. The 5.9L is a rock-solid reliable engine, but it's an old design. Very old.

I would also choose the 4.7L engine just for the new improved 5 speed auto transmission. The older transmission isn't a great one, either in function or reliability. I hear the new one is smoother shifting.

brucec35 · January 2002

Having owned both, I think I can weigh in with at least some valid comments.

My '97 Ram was in the shop for the following in the nearly 3 years I leased it:

1. 24K - had to rebuild overdrive gear
2. 30K - had to fix leaky tranny pan
3. 24K - CD player died
4. 30K - Cd player died again
5. 30K - brake problems that Dodge dealers(3 of them) could not seem to diagnose or reproduce. Vehicle would sometimes (3 times at least) fail to stop quickly, pedal would go to floor, and truck would coast through intersections! Got rid of it right after that, after having Dodge inspect it for 3rd time and say it was fine.

Not perfect, but it never did leave me stranded. My biggest gripe would be mediocre dealer service, not the truck itself. One dealer put the brake pads on backwards, resulting in near total front brake failure! It had to be towed back.

2000 Toyota Tundra:. In 29,000 miles, the following problems have come up:

1. seatbelt retractor weak, replaced under warranty. A month later, it's weak again. Not worth another trip to fix.
2. 28K Oxygen sensor problem caused check engine light to come on. Part is on long-term back-order. Will require another visit to put it in when it arrives. Must be a common problem.
3. 24K brake light comes on. Fluid level slightly low(only maybe a mm or two below the line!), but rotors are also warped. Rotors turned and pads replaced at my cost. Rear drums also warped, but fixed under warranty and resurfaced at no charge.
4. Unlike my previous Toyotas with excellent paint, Tundra chips extremely easily.

Overall, a solid truck, but again, not perfect. I think the Toyota comes into its own only AFTER about 50,000 miles, when the Dodge products seem to have more serious problems with transmissions/brakes. But either is acceptable overall in my experience. The Dodge Ram safety problems were not acceptable, however.

If you've ever owned a German luxury brand, you'd consider fewer than 6 trips to the shop a year a great experience! And let's not talk about the $1,000 tire changes every year or so. Give me a simple truck any day. Anyone interested in a nice '98 BMW 540i 6 speed?

yurian44 · January 2002

Hey Brucec35 Thanks for the excellent post! As a shopper for a new truck it's really tough getting honest straight forward posts on some of the problems people have had with different trucks. Right now i'm choosing between the Dakota, GMC and Ford. All regular cabs, all with the 5 speed manual, all with the V-8 option (4.7, 4.8 and 4.6). All seem to have they're own brand of problems. My greatest worry is just how frequent and what percentage of trucks have them.Thanks again for a good post.

dustyk · January 2002

From what I've read and been told by transmission guys, the problem with '94 to '97 RAMs was the overdrive gear failing due to a combination of insufficient fluid circulation and intermittent or clogged drainback valves. A combination of snow plowing, towing heavy loads, and inadequate transmission maintenance made the problem worse. Common treatment around here, I guess, is to completely remove the drainback valve. Earlier versions can be modified to resolve the insufficient fluid problem by a reputable rebuilder. The newer 45RFE auto (4.7 engine) appears to be completely reliable.

When I did vehicle repair anytime we got a complaint about the brake pedal going to the floor intermittently, we replaced the master cylinder. We never had a customer come back for the same complaint, either. Master cylinders can be intermittent, especially in cold weather.

We like our Toyota Avalon, but when we're over to the dealership I always notice a lot of Tundra's in for service then anything else. Lot's of brake and drive line problems according to our tech. The O2 sensors don't live too long, either. Watch out for severe engine sludging problems after 50,000. We're having that problem with ours.

Good luck,
Dusty

ford_bii · January 2002

Hey, if you're a 5-speed guy, check out the Ford F-250 super duty. You can get the 5.4L engine with a 5-speed. LOTS OF POWER. My dad bought a Super Duty with the 5.4 and a stick and man, in the regular cab configuraton (I think you can get that combo in reg cab, his is super cab) it would come close to kicking my Dakota. If you're going to use your truck for a lot of hauling and towing, it's the ticket. With Dodge you only got an auto for the big engine. Funny thing is though, you can't get a 5-speed in an F-150 with the 5.4L.

The Super Duty may be cheaper than you think, too.

mtrialsm · January 2002

I glad someone pointed this out to me. Why is it
that Dodge is the only manufacture that hasn't
fixed this safety issue? You can put the truck
in gear (auto) without pressing the brake pedal!!
I think this was a serious safety issue that has
been addressed by others. Of course I won't leave
my truck running with the pet dog or a child in
my truck, but there's is always someone that will
and has done that!! Try it, from Park to R or D
and don't press the brake!!! Be careful!!!
If you didn't know this, you do now.
I own a 2001 Dakota Quad. I love my truck!
mick

txyank1 · January 2002

I drove for a lot of years without that feature and didn't have any problem. That's one of the things you're taught when you learn to drive.

mtrialsm · January 2002

I didn't say it was a problem, I just ask a question? and "they" also tell you not to spill
hot coffee in you lap at a drive thru,,,,,,,,
Just something to think about,,,,,,,,,,
mick

txyank1 · January 2002

it could be a problem if you've grown used to that feature then drive a dodge. I see it as one more way someone is unecessarily (imo) trying to protect me from myself.

ahasher · January 2002

IMHO mtrialsm, I agree the ability to protect passengers (young or not) cannot be understated. I too have driven vehicles with a feature to prevent shifting until a pedal is pressed. Altho I have more time in vehicles with a manual tranny clutch/starter lock.. and have let a nine year old listen to the radio while i ran an errand...
Goes with my constant observations to the wife of adults letting kids wander all over the vehicle as they drive.. I saw just yesterday a kid STANDING in the front seat drinking a Mc****ds soda. That parent should have been arrested for child endangerment!!!
Well just my .02 worth..

Oh yeah. another safety comment... my rear 2000 QC doors can ONLY be opened after MANUALLY unlocking.. Where the front has the standard handle pull unlocks setup. Great safety for the rear if u have the need.. but I now have older kids or adults but I CANNOT disable this feature.. an annoying thing now but I live with it. better safe that sorry I guess...

yurian44 · January 2002

I did check out the Ford and GMC 3/4 ton trucks. Similarly equipped to the 1/2 tons they ran $4,000 - $5,000 higher. I do carry several hundred pounds of tools every day, but not enough to really need a 3/4. Thanks for your opinion though, it was sure worth the look.

sunburn · January 2002

mtrialsm - for better or worse, the 2002 Dakota's have a brake/shift interlock.

eagleeye13 · January 2002

I haven't been on for a while, so here's some info for all of the people complaining and calling Dodge "JUNK". I have a '98 Dakota club cab SLT 5.2, 5spd 3.55 LSD loaded from factory, with a Gaylord tonneau, 3" dynamax cat back exh. K&N filter, 15X8 ARE wheels with 9.50-30x15 toyo tires. 76,000 + miles
When I can keep my foot out of it I've gotten 19-20 MPG on the open road. My problem is if the traffic is open this truck cruise's at 70-80 real well and still gets 16-18 MPG depending on level or hills. Still running original brakes and clutch, live in San Diego Ca. and travel to Grand Junction Co. and Wa. state. So have been over some pretty good climb's.
One thing that I wasn't happy with was rearend whine at 40,000 mi's, Dealer rebuilt with all new gears and bearing's. Started whining again at 70,000 Dealer rblt again and I found out the Mechanic that had done the work the first time had fired for poor workmanship 2 month's after first rbld. No problems since.

I've had Toyota's (car's & trk's)& Nissan's ( 2trks) and had more problems with them then the Dodge veh's I've owned. So I'm a firm believer in LUCK!!!!!!! 2 Dodge trk's over 200,000 mi. 4 cars over 100,000 mi.

Sorry for the long post!!!!
Lee

kojak3 · January 2002

Anyone else have their insurance rates go up on the Quad? My policy just renewed and my rates went up because "the Quad is costly to repair for accidents" That sucks since I'm an accident free driver.

mopar67 · January 2002

I'll sent them to you pre paid freight!

surffla1 · January 2002

kojack,
Insurance companies are just like car dealers. They compete for business. Don't like your new rate? Get some quotes from some other's. If no reputable company can beat it, at least you have peace of mind.

jettug1 · January 2002

I posted a question about a computer chip or reprogrammer for the 4.7. I have been searching the web and asking around some shops to no avail.
Has anybody in this forum heard of anything coming out or allready on the market. In my searches I did find a jet plug in module but does not negate the 100 mph. limitation. Hey guys I enjoy reading the posts, it is very informative and I like to hear what other people are doing to the quad cab to make it even better.

iowabigguy · January 2002

"100 mph limitation". Do you have the tire handling group and have 2 wheel drive? I do and my MAX is about 112mph. I think that the tires are what limit your top speed (meaning for safety reasons Chrysler limits your top end via the computer so you don't exceed the tire speed rating). Maybe a dealer can identify a factory part that you can interchange that has the higher limit. We own 2 1999 Neon Coupes. One is a Plymouth Breeze with the larger 150HP engine and touring tires. It cuts out at about 106MPH. The other is a Dodge R/T. It will go at least 120MPH, I haven't hit a limiter yet. It has H rated tires and a firmer suspension. You might ask a Dodge mechanic if it is possible to remove the limit using the OBD2 computer, can't hurt to ask. If it is possible then maybe you could find someone willing to help. Rick

saskquad · January 2002

There seems to be no rhyme or reason to this limiter issue.
I have a 2001 4.7 auto 2wd 3.55 lsd tire and handling Sport. It starts to spasm at 97 mph.
I am happy with the trans so far operating ok right down to -35 F(yes thats 35 below 0 ) .Takes about 6 miles at 65 before it goes into full lockup at that temp.Yes it's a little chilly here this week.

albertaman · January 2002

Kenne Bell does a computer flash that can get rid of the speed and RPM limiter, the info I got from them said you had to sign a waver for it.
You'll have to take out your PCM to them for the flash, they told me it was a 2 day turn around time and cost $349 US.

brucec35 · January 2002

I would think hard about getting a Dakota reg cab V8 vs. a full size regular cab. The price difference probably isnt' that great, especially when resale is factored in (full size trucks generally retain a larger % of orig value than midsize/compacts). But the main reason is that the dakota regular cab seemed pretty "compact" to me when I sat in it. Not a bit of room once my seat is back, and certainly less storage. They look nice, though. If you can live w/o the practical stuff like storage space, it might be decent choice, though.

yurian44 · January 2002

I'm driving a '97 nissan now, so even the dakota has a bit more room. I'm in no big hurry to buy, i've driven the chevy 1/2 ton, but the dealer didn't have a manual tranny on the lot. The rental places i checked also have auto trannies in all their rental trucks. I won't buy until i get a chance to test drive what i'm looking for. I did like the way the manual tranny worked in the Dakota, seemed smooth. I really liked the power also, a good % of my driving is over 7,000 feet in elevation(which is why i'm tired of driving the 2.4 litre nissan)
I always put a shell on my trucks, so the regular cab will be fine. I'll have storage in the back.

brucec35 · January 2002

Dang, now I'm considering a reg cab 4x4 Dakota. My wife will be driving it to work. (tired of luxury car hassles and more mundane cars are just boring) If I can talk her into accepting a regular cab that isn't real big it may just happen. I can always put a bed cover on for storage. It costs less than the 4x2 Ram and looks good.

yurian44 · January 2002

The reason i always put a shell on my trucks is that i use them for work and carry about 500 lbs. of tools back there. No matter how hard i try to clean/blow them off after work they always seem to drip sawdust off themselves. It's why i don't get a SUV, just too dusty. I also keep a large plastic storage case back there to put items in so they don't get damaged or dusty.
I always advise friends to take test drives in any vehicle they may be considering, it's surprising how many people change their minds after they actually drive the vehicle that they thought was "perfect" before the test drive.

kojak3 · February 2002

A word for all:

My brake light fuse blew this weekend and I was riding aorund without brake lights for who knows how long--until the lady that almost rear-ended me came up to my window and told me I didn't have any F%^&*( brake lights.

No problemo--go to parts store and get new one--NOT! No part stores carry the fuses that are under the hood of your Dak--dealer only! I'm talking about my 2001 QC. I suggest everyone go buy and extra one or two at the dealer in each amperage since you can't buy them in a parts store. They're about 4 bucks each. Maybe DC could use some of that hellatious profit and fix the frigging brake problems on these trucks.

I'm ready to trade this truck in for a Kia Sedona.

digipix · February 2002

Hi all, I'm in the market for a newer truck. The Dakota Quad cab seems like it fits the bill, at least from what it offers. I've been reading some horrow stories from other owners of the Dakota's, lots of problems, starting problems, molding coming off, junk rotors, leaking fluids, etc... I'm coming from a Toyota, and well... this type of stuff just hasn't happened to me for the 170K miles I have on my Tacoma. What do you guys think? Good Truck? Reliability Problems? Worth the money? Any advice is appreciated.

iowabigguy · February 2002

If you are coming from a Toyota you probably won't be happy! That said I have had my Quad for about 2 years. I had a remote for the keyless entry go bad and had it replaced. I have a Quad, 2wd, 4.7L and 5 speed. I have been getting 15.5 to 16.5 now with the cold in city driving. I get 19+ on the highway observing the posted speed limit. I have the optional 4 wheel anti-lock brakes and have had no problems with brakes. I do NOT drive my Quad aggressively and I think that is where the difference lies. Gas mileage goes down real fast once you are over 65mph. My on board computer also shows a alarming increase in gas consumed with jack rabbit starts and stoplight to stoplight racing. The brake rotors seem to be a problem area. I think they tend to warp when they get hot and then cool down quickly. I recall one of the guys mentioning (about 2 years ago) that his brakes warped after a series of high speed stops really heated his rotors and then he went through a car wash. I think the quality of the Quad is probably typical of American Pickups. Lots of it depends on luck. I seem to have gotten a good on so I'm happy. I also think that the newer Quads might have had some corners cut on them to reduce costs. My spare tire (with the tire./handling group) is mounted on an aluminum rim which matches the other 4. I believe the spare is mounted on a standard steel rim now. Just those kind of things, but overall a decent truck for the price. Rick
PS, I would avoid the V6 and go with the 4.7 V8

kojak3 · February 2002

My 2001 Dak is functional for what I want; but, I very disappointed with it. The "Five Star Dealers" suck. Expect brake problems galore. Mine is going in the shop tomorrow because the brake light fuze keeps blowing. Gas milage--to low to count. My wife calls the truck Rice Krispies because the front end snaps, crackles and pops all the time. I do like the power of the 4.7 and the truck does look cool. But cool doesn't help the mechanical defects of a 24k truck. My truck only has about 12k on it and I'm already looking to get rid of it. I'm not going to be wasting my time constantly with these bad brakes. This weekend I'm taking a Kia Sedona for a ride. This is my last "Made in USA" vehicle. The Daks also depreciate RAPIDLY. My opions FWIW.

saskquad · February 2002

20K and counting, I'll let you know when my first problem arises.

2001 4.7L 2wd auto quadcab t&h LSD Intense blue Sport

DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

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