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Porsche 911



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    You mean 1988, yes?

    There's no way to diagnose this from this distance. For one thing you don't have the normal OBD-II diagnostics. These are very complex cars and they need a specialist. Hopefully something simple like a tune-up or an ornery injector. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area I can send you to 928 specialists. Not too many Porsche shops even know how to work on them. Don't let anyone touch it who doesn't absolutely know what they are doing! Are you familiar with these cars and what they cost to maintain? Considerably more than a 911, so keep a close eye on repair estimates, parts prices, etc. Don't just hand over the car.
  • I am looking for a site that shows the colors offered in 1982 with no luck. Actually I am a 944 owner, they had the same options that year if I am not mistaken. The color that I would like to paint the car is either Mauritius Blue L Y5A or Metallic Light Blue L M5Z, cannot find what the color actually looks like. Can anyone help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    These guys might be able to dig something up for you:

  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Try or google simon's porsche 911sc site and click on paint colors. Good luck.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Thanks for that link. Good info.
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Glad to be of service.

    Have a question regarding market values of 911sc's (1978 to '83) vs.the '87-89 911's with the bigger and better trans and clutch and bigger engine. We kinda talked about this before when I was more concerned with actual prices. Let's assume both are in excellent condition inside and out and both have, say 100,000 miles. Would a person be crazy to pay as much for a 1979 sc as a '88 or '89 911, all else being the same? You are getting a 9 year older car with a smaller engine and inferior trans and clutch, not to mention the chain tensioner and air box problems. On the other hand, could an argument be made that the sc is a different car with different handling (maybe a little quicker at the start because it's lighter) and the 9 extra years just means that it will be a classic sooner than the '87-'89's?. If there are people that prefer sc's over the rest of the 1980's then I assume that would justify similar pricing, or maybe, not. I'm just trying to get a handle on how the market place differentiates between the porsches from 1978 to 1989. I hope you or someone has an opinion about all of this. I will consider, "Just buy the newest porsche you can afford", a cop out answer.

  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,699
    In similar condition, the 87-89 Carerras are worth more than the SCs. Most SCs in excellent condition probably already have the updated airbox and possibly the tensioner. I can tell you from experience the clutch and transmission are not buttery smooth on the pre '87 cars. I find them kind of notchy, stiff, and even a little clunky if your timing is off a little when you shift. If you can find an 87-89 car, that is the car to buy IMHO.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    The Carreras are worth more and yes you'd be crazy to pay Carrera money for an SC.

    Basically, I feel pretty safe in saying that after 1973, Porsche 911s behave like used cars in the marketplace, not like classics---that is, the older they are the LESS they are worth, and the newer, the more. This seems to also hold for 944, 928, 914, etc etc.

    Will this change? No sign of it yet. Maybe in another 10-20 years?
  • Is there any information available regarding 911 performance during crashing testing? Why does it seem like there is no crash test data either from Europe or the US?
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    There are no published crash tests. That's why you can't find them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    That's one area where I would give Porsche the benefit of the doubt and not worry.
  • I store my 911 every year. This is what I do (after extensive research and asking the dealer). Inflate tires to 50psi; clean car thoroughly in and out (make sure its dry before you put it away. I usually drive it around for an hour and get it nice and hot and get the water out of everywhere). I fill the gas tank and then put Stabilizer in the fuel tank. I connect car to a porsche trickle charger. (some say dont lock the car since that will engage the alarm and that drains the battery - i think thats unnecessary. I also put a leather treatment on the seats to keep them moist so as not to crack from the cold (im in canada, my garage gets pretty cold and dry). I close all the vents to keep the cold air out of the cabin - this helps with keeping interior leather moist. I also use a porsche cover on the car to protect from salt or scratches when moving things in and out of garage. Oh and Ive been told you shouldnt leave it in gear. The best thing to do is to put a brick under the tires and dont engage the emerg brake or leave it in gear. You can use what you want from this but this is the "full storage list" i received. I do it all except I lock the car. There are also 2 schools of thought. Start the car once in a while to get the oil hot etc. and the more popular one is to not start the car until spring at all. The idea is that some experts say that since the car is cold and drained of oil the cold start is very harsh on the car and should be avoided. I never start the car until spring. Its always worked well for me on all 3 of my porsches.
    Then again, my friend does absolutely nothing except put a cover on the car and his runs fine. I prefer to do the whole ritual. Makes it seem so special to me when I put it away. My wife thinks Im nuts about the car and the procedure..which makes me think I must be right...
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    I wish you were trading in your vehicles at my dealership. They must be immaculate with that kind of care.

    Plus, the ritual is pretty cool. :)
  • which handles better, the 993 c4 or the (02-04) 996 c2 with psm? in particular i am interested in which is less likely to fish tail, or have its rear end slide out of my control during tight turns? i have an SC that has gotten away from me a few times and makes me worry when i push it.
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Regarding Porsche pricing after 1973, I'm starting to see what you mean about the older they are the less they are worth. There are a lot of rust bucket 911 T's out there for $25,000 and up. I've found that poor condition or high mileage after 1973 really makes the price drop, too. I believe the T's were over in 1973. I have heard to stay away from the years 1974 to 1977. I don't know why or if this is true. The sc's began in 1978 to 1983. Then you had that period from 1984 to 1986 where the engine went from 3.0 to 3.2, but the trans and clutch did not improve until 1987-1989. I've driven the 3.0 911 SC and the '87 911 3.2 with the heavier (but improved) trans and clutch. It could have been my imagination, but I thought the SC with the smaller engine was quicker than the heavier '87 with the bigger engine. Back to the marketplace, I don't look at the '87 to '89's as being a better car than the SC's (as the marketplace does). To me, they are two different Porsches with different feels. Another question, I've heard the post !973 Porsches will not appreciate much in the near future because there were so many shipped to North America. But, when I look at the production numbers of around 2 to 3,000 a year, that doesn't seem like a lot of cars to me. The only thing I can think of is that the marketplace for older Porsches is also proportionately smaller.
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Don't know about the C4, but that PSM on the C2 is something special. Just got back from the Porsche high performance driving school in Alabama. We tried the skid pad with and without PSM and there was a big difference. On the track (2.4 miles with 14 turns and a 350 ft elevation difference) no oversteer at 50+ in the turns.We had some tight turns, but perhaps not as tight as you are talking about. These were 2008 911's and 911 S's. The 911's we used on the track had the PSM button fixed so you couldn't turn if off. By the way, I won the raffle, and got to take a hot lap in a GT3 with the race car driver Cass Whithead at the wheel. The G forces were unbelievable. The thing that impressed me most about the 911 was the breaking. We would be at 110 to 120 (there are so many turns, the straightaways are too short to go any faster) up to the last second, then hard hard breaking just before the turn. Amazing how fast these cars can stop in such a short distance. My first time on the track.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Here's a fun video of a Carrera GT from one of our member's blog:

    Yes You Can Drift a Carrera GT
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Interesting web site. I will be checking it out. I looked at the video before reading the caption and thought he must have lifted off on the accelerator - too wide of turn for oversteer to happen at that speed. I had something just like that when it started to rain cats and dogs on the track in Alabama. The lead instructor (four to a group single file-you only get to pass in the master course) would not slow down on the straightaways. I hit a puddle going 115 mph and the rear end went all over the place. Locked in on the steering wheel and got lucky - the car stayed straight - very scary. They told us to break hard before the turn, slowly release the brakes during the first half of the turn then slowly all the way down on the accelerator coming out of the turn, petal to the metal until the next turn. They had cones to show us when to break, the apex, etc. The instructor in the lead was also on a walkie talkie. It was fun. I was sure the rear end would come out, but it didn't. Lifting off the accelerator or hitting the brakes in a turn throws the weight of the car to the front, when you want the weight on the rear tires coming out of the turn. They hammered that into us during the course. It's great having the engine ( weight) in the rear as long as you don't make a mistake. Hear's something you may not have heard. In rain, narrow tires are safer than wide tires. Weight per sq. in. of tire on the road is greater with narrower tires. In the rain, the 911 S's, with the wider tires, had to slow down more than the base 911's to stay on the track. I should have gotten into racing 40 years ago. On the other hand, maybe not. I like being old.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    That's right.....slow in, fast out...

    Lifting off abruptly in a hot turn is a good way to spin any car around.

    I know guys 70 years old who are vintage racing. Go for it.
  • It has a been a while since I last posted. In any case, for all you current and future Porsche owners. I have five vehicles, three of which are Porsche's. A 996 2002 C4 Conv, 2006 Cayenne Turbo and a 2007 997S Conv. My 996 has had past issues with oil leaks, not much in volume but a concern nevertheless especially because of RMS issues.
    About a year and a half ago I noticed, for the first time, a few drops of oil on the floor of my garage and brought the car to the dealer. They replaced the RMS at my cost, about $1800.00. Six months later, again the same oil leak, again the dealer replaced the RMS this time at their cost. Four months ago, again I noticed drops of oil and promptly brought the car back. This is where the story gets very interesting.
    The dealership calls me and tells me that it's not a RMS problem but a problem in the casting of the metal and thus the engine is unable to be sealed 100%. The solution, a brand new engine courtesy of Porsche. Keep in mind, the car is out of warranty and has 45k miles. You can imagine my delightful surprise. The only thing I have to pay is 25% of the dealer cost of the engine. Yesterday I receive another call and the dealer tells me he has great news and possibly not so great news. Let's start with the great news, they uncrated the engine and lo and behold they discovered a 3.8 high output engine. Clearly, not the original 996 but an engine for the 997S! The mechanic is convinced its an x51. I am not so sure but in any case the worst case scenario I have a 355 hp engine vs the original 320 hp. The bad news, he recommended I replace the original clutch with a stronger unit to withstand the increased power. Let me tell you, this is not bad news for me since I can appreciate the cost of an additional $900.00 for the parts, labor N/C since the unit is already disassembled and thus re-assembly of the clutch is part of the engine work.
    I must admit, when I finally digested the news I began to have doubts about my good fortune and thus decided to drive, unannounced, the 320 miles round trip to verify with my own eyes. Sure enough, I get to the dealership and there are the two engines, practically, side by side. My fears and doubts are quickly put to rest.
    Funny, these past couple of months I have entertained the thought of adding an F430 to my family, but I can without a doubt state that this thought has been completely eliminated from my mind and thus a 911 Turbo is the works.
    What can I say, Porsche,in my opinion, is in a class of its own.
    Thank You Porsche!
    I will keep this forum posted. :shades:
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    Very cool! Thanks for sharing that story. Do you mind telling us which dealership this was?
  • A dealership in Corpus Christi, Tx, a very small dealer; in fact, it's one of those setups in which VW/Porsche are together.
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    Sounds good. Glad they are taking care of you like they should!
  • I have always enjoyed allowing interested friends to drive my '06 911S ( with me in the passenger seat). Last summer I handed the keys to a 'car guy' friend and off we went . As it was a nice day, we had the roof down. He behaved himself during the first part of the ride as we enjoyed a winding rural road. We entered the Interstate to return to my house a couple of exits away. He ran my car to red line in the first few gears as I became alarmed at the rapidly approaching truck in our lane. I glanced over at the speedo and we were past 140 mph! A car was passing the truck ahead . I yelled to slow down but he continued to gain speed and squeezed between the two vehicles just before the car ahead passed the semi.( he called it a Mario Andretti sling shot pass ) I now was screaming to slow down. He grinned at me with a demonic smile saying the car still had plenty left in it. He gradually slowed down to 100mph and thankfully came quickly to our exit. He thought the whole thing was funny. I wasn't amused. He scared the s... out of me. I now think twice who gets my keys.
  • My name is Laszlo Schmidt, my uncle Schmidt the hardest working engineer at Porsche, was overshadowed by Ferdinand. His greatest creation they did not let him acknowledge, or have, so he arranged I should get it into the USA. As I knew there were 3 made, and only a true engineer can fathom what the venturi effect, velocity stacks, unlimited gas, 24v spark, euro gears, 1840 lb weight, same bore as todays cars, but shorter stroke and high RPMs are truly capable of. Fuel injection and smog doomed this cars production, performance doomed its existence. I am getting old, the car has been sitting with 39,000 km on the OD, but bad belly rust prohibits any quick solutions. Porsche says it does not exist, which is what they said in 72, because this car can and has beaten the pants off of any RSR Carrera or ST/GT made. This is no hoax! I need help authenticating this car. I have been E mailing anyone I can for help, with no success. I have the COA all #s match, I am the 2nd owner, the motor is just as my Uncle made it in Stuttgart. Please check this same title at my space, or Weber Porsche for Pics. PLEASE HELP!
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    This, my friend, is a bizarre post.

    Your uncle, the hardest working engineer at Porsche, was understandably overshadowed by Ferdinand. He built an incredible car and Porsche denies its existence. 3 made, of which you have 1. You're old. You want to authenticate its existence. Hrm....

    At what point are you going to ask for my social security number and banking information?
  • bibs1bibs1 Posts: 3
    I just picked up a 911, 2007 with 4000 miles. I'm having trouble about 40 % of the time shifting into second. Feels like it's not syncing and I get that small grinding feel. Is this common, am I doing something wrong or do I need to bring it in to get it readjusted?
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    Some resistance is common, but I can't tell if yours is normal without driving. Just take it to the dealer and let them take a look. It is under warranty and it's better to be safe than sorry.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    This may also be a clutch issue. I'm with madman...get it looked at asap.
  • shulseshulse Posts: 11
    I'd agree, have this inspected. I had a similar issue with my 2007 911 (C2), and found the synch was not quite there - a little problem, only with upshift into 2nd gear. Downshifts were perfect. Let me know what happens, thanks.
  • shulseshulse Posts: 11
    Guys, an unfortunate event this morning, I was beat on a straight by a lamborghini... I'd be more accepting but can't tolerate this. I feel my 997 is just not up to the challenge and am thinking of trading it in for the turbo. Please advise on your thoughts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Buy a Dodge Viper? ;)
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Don't race Lamborghinis.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    I was in Phoenix/Scottsdale last week and saw two 997 4S models puttering around town. Why on earth would someone (at least two people) in Phoenix buy a 4S?
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039
    They like the wide body? They want better traction? They fear a blizzard?
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Yeah, it's gotta be fear - after all, Phoenix did get 3 inches of snow in 1985... :surprise:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Well, so they're prepared for the next BIG ONE!
  • buylowbuylow Posts: 41
    Hi guys,

    Well, I got my Bentley 911 service manual and the "101 Projects for the 911" is on the way from Amazon. I have successfully changed the light bulb in the luggage compartment, and installed new lifts (struts) for the engine lid and the luggage compartment lid (from Pelican Parts) - the only Porsche in town that does not use sticks. I'm now ready to move on to bigger and better things. But before I can get under the car, I need to jack it up and therein lies the question - what kind of floor lift and jack stands to use. I've read that there are only four lift points (two on each side). Will any lift and jack work, or do you need a special one that will mate better to the lift points? The Bentley manual says to use wood between the lift and the car. Will all jacks fit under the Porsche, or are some lower that others? Pretty basic stuff, I know, but just thought with all the experience out there, someone would know if one system or brand works better than others or have any tips you want to pass along. Thought I would take off the rear wheel and test the oil level sensor which does not work and maybe change the brake pads. Rebuilt a 1930 Model A Ford in high school, but that was 45 years ago and haven't been under a car since. Thanks,
  • bsissibsissi Posts: 14
    I am looking for any feedback on after market muffler systems, like Speedtech or others. I have visited two different websites for two different manufacturers which include video/audio bytes of the products as installed and driven. Any dos or don'ts or advice?
  • Minor problem, but since the car is still under warranty I thought I would get it taken care of.

    I live where there is real winter so the car does not come out of the garage very often. It is plugged into a battery maintainer.

    After sitting in the garage (unheated) for 10-14 days and I go to drive it the radio does not work.

    More specifically, it powers up, the word 'Porsche" come up on the display panel, but, no sound, none of the buttons or functions work. 5 minutes (or so)later FM preset station #1 comes on. Still no functions work, no volume control, etc. Another 2 or 3 minutes and all is fine.

    One suggestion was that the circuit board was shrinking in the cold and expanind when things warmed up a bit.

    Problem does not (or at least has not) appeared in anything other than cold weather.

    Thanks for any insight.
  • sam140sam140 Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2008 911 Turbo and have a problem. When I really push it, particularly from low to high speeds quickly I get a 2 second lag before it accelerates. Of course when it finally does kick in I get all 480 horses at once, making it quite a challenge to handle. My previous car was an E55 and I loved it. It was never at a loss for power. I read in Car & Driver this lag was some sort of software issue. The dealer says it is the normal turbo lag but 911's are famous for not having turbo lag.

    Does anyone have a solution?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    I searched all the TSBs but found nothing on software upgrades for this issue.

    Have you had turbo cars before? The reason I ask is that if you attempt to accelerate at too low an RPM (the speed of the car really isn't the issue here), you will indeed get turbo lag from any turbo car. So I'm wondering if you kept the car more "on cam" so to speak, this would not occur. Maybe you could make a mental note of what RPM you are at when you experience this noticeable 2 second lag and let us know. If this happens say under 2000 RPM, I might tend to agree with the dealer.

    Having said all that, he certainly owes you a test for proper turbo boost pressure!!
  • peerkhanpeerkhan Posts: 1
    I am sorry to say it politely most porsche sales person
    are RICHARD'S You do your home work you can never
    beat the dealership..... Yes you can bargain there is specially
    if you are buying a brand new car you have lots of leverage specially on 2008 about $12000 to 18000
    discount. Which you will loose as soon as you drive of the lot ??? Be brave you the can be like Mr.Donald Trumph A_H these porsche dealers think that why but they do not drive themselves Porsche's Good Luck
  • madmanmoomadmanmoo Posts: 2,039

    I think what Peer is trying to say is:

    Sales people are good hardworking people trying to make a living. Respect them and they will do the same.

    Do some research before you buy.

    You can get some great discounts on leftover '08 stock.


    Donald Trump's empire is crumbling and you can be like him. Immersed in lawsuits and bankruptcy proceedings.

    Porsches are fun to drive.

    Good luck.

    Hope that helped!
  • frustrumfrustrum Posts: 1
    (new to the forum, playing quick catch up, here's the question...)

    2008 GT3
    222 miles
    RS Orange
    Xenon lights
    Red tail lights
    Self-dim mirror w/ rain sensor

    They are asking 129k, which seems above original MSRP? So, while I love the car, I need to figure out my walk-away price before going to the dealer today.

    What is your walk-away price?

    All thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated.

    ps. While I love the RS Orange, is it a bit poser to paint a non-RS an RS color?

    ps2. Of course the salesman acts like the new economy hasn't affected high-end rare cars, but that just seems like a line. Is there really a solid national market for GT3s? Or are they not selling like the Turbos? There are 10 turbos on the lot with the GT3.
  • abaker1abaker1 Posts: 7
    I own a 1989 930 cabriolet. I would like to find out how many were produced, exported to the USA and perhaps how many are still around. Any ideas where I could find this information would be appreciated?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    844 produced, 600 came to USA, in 1989.**

    Usually these cars are grouped together as the 1987--1989 with a total production of 2,002, since they are essentially the same car.

    Hard to say how many are left but I'd bet most of them. This isn't a car that is generally junked, so unless they've been demolished (and this does happen to this car) they are generally repaired/restored.

    The European models have more HP.

    **source: "Original Porsche 911" by Peter Morgan, 1998 edition, published by Motorbooks.
  • abaker1abaker1 Posts: 7 that was fast!!!!! Many thanks for the info.
  • chibachiba Posts: 6
    have owned performance cars for some time - but never a porsche. considering purchase of
    92 porsche 911 america roadster (1 owner 103,000km- 65,000 miles)

    not worried about cars present mechanical condition as it has full covering report by porsche mechanic and clean carfax)

    want to know what overall dependability of this model is and any specific parts subject to failure.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Great car. I'd say you definitely have to watch out for the clutch. It should be light and smooth. If it is heavy or sticky, you'd best take it to a Porsche specialist for further consultation, since repair of the dual-mass flywheel & clutch assembly is quite expensive. This is a known problem area. Porsche replaced many of these under goodwill arrangements, even after warranty. You might check the car's records.

    There's another serious issue with the C2s which may have no bearing on your car. Cars built prior to June 1991 (check on the tag on the door jamb) have been known to develop leaks between the cylinder heads and the cylinder barrels, requiring removing and rebuilding of the upper part of the engine. So again, if the car was built on or before June 1991, off to the specialist you go for an inspection.
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