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Comments
There's no way to diagnose this from this distance. For one thing you don't have the normal OBD-II diagnostics. These are very complex cars and they need a specialist. Hopefully something simple like a tune-up or an ornery injector. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area I can send you to 928 specialists. Not too many Porsche shops even know how to work on them. Don't let anyone touch it who doesn't absolutely know what they are doing! Are you familiar with these cars and what they cost to maintain? Considerably more than a 911, so keep a close eye on repair estimates, parts prices, etc. Don't just hand over the car.
COLOR CHIPS
Earl
Have a question regarding market values of 911sc's (1978 to '83) vs.the '87-89 911's with the bigger and better trans and clutch and bigger engine. We kinda talked about this before when I was more concerned with actual prices. Let's assume both are in excellent condition inside and out and both have, say 100,000 miles. Would a person be crazy to pay as much for a 1979 sc as a '88 or '89 911, all else being the same? You are getting a 9 year older car with a smaller engine and inferior trans and clutch, not to mention the chain tensioner and air box problems. On the other hand, could an argument be made that the sc is a different car with different handling (maybe a little quicker at the start because it's lighter) and the 9 extra years just means that it will be a classic sooner than the '87-'89's?. If there are people that prefer sc's over the rest of the 1980's then I assume that would justify similar pricing, or maybe, not. I'm just trying to get a handle on how the market place differentiates between the porsches from 1978 to 1989. I hope you or someone has an opinion about all of this. I will consider, "Just buy the newest porsche you can afford", a cop out answer.
Earl
Basically, I feel pretty safe in saying that after 1973, Porsche 911s behave like used cars in the marketplace, not like classics---that is, the older they are the LESS they are worth, and the newer, the more. This seems to also hold for 944, 928, 914, etc etc.
Will this change? No sign of it yet. Maybe in another 10-20 years?
Then again, my friend does absolutely nothing except put a cover on the car and his runs fine. I prefer to do the whole ritual. Makes it seem so special to me when I put it away. My wife thinks Im nuts about the car and the procedure..which makes me think I must be right...
Plus, the ritual is pretty cool.
Earl
Yes You Can Drift a Carrera GT
Earl
Lifting off abruptly in a hot turn is a good way to spin any car around.
I know guys 70 years old who are vintage racing. Go for it.
About a year and a half ago I noticed, for the first time, a few drops of oil on the floor of my garage and brought the car to the dealer. They replaced the RMS at my cost, about $1800.00. Six months later, again the same oil leak, again the dealer replaced the RMS this time at their cost. Four months ago, again I noticed drops of oil and promptly brought the car back. This is where the story gets very interesting.
The dealership calls me and tells me that it's not a RMS problem but a problem in the casting of the metal and thus the engine is unable to be sealed 100%. The solution, a brand new engine courtesy of Porsche. Keep in mind, the car is out of warranty and has 45k miles. You can imagine my delightful surprise. The only thing I have to pay is 25% of the dealer cost of the engine. Yesterday I receive another call and the dealer tells me he has great news and possibly not so great news. Let's start with the great news, they uncrated the engine and lo and behold they discovered a 3.8 high output engine. Clearly, not the original 996 but an engine for the 997S! The mechanic is convinced its an x51. I am not so sure but in any case the worst case scenario I have a 355 hp engine vs the original 320 hp. The bad news, he recommended I replace the original clutch with a stronger unit to withstand the increased power. Let me tell you, this is not bad news for me since I can appreciate the cost of an additional $900.00 for the parts, labor N/C since the unit is already disassembled and thus re-assembly of the clutch is part of the engine work.
I must admit, when I finally digested the news I began to have doubts about my good fortune and thus decided to drive, unannounced, the 320 miles round trip to verify with my own eyes. Sure enough, I get to the dealership and there are the two engines, practically, side by side. My fears and doubts are quickly put to rest.
Funny, these past couple of months I have entertained the thought of adding an F430 to my family, but I can without a doubt state that this thought has been completely eliminated from my mind and thus a 911 Turbo is the works.
What can I say, Porsche,in my opinion, is in a class of its own.
Thank You Porsche!
I will keep this forum posted. :shades:
Your uncle, the hardest working engineer at Porsche, was understandably overshadowed by Ferdinand. He built an incredible car and Porsche denies its existence. 3 made, of which you have 1. You're old. You want to authenticate its existence. Hrm....
At what point are you going to ask for my social security number and banking information?
Well, I got my Bentley 911 service manual and the "101 Projects for the 911" is on the way from Amazon. I have successfully changed the light bulb in the luggage compartment, and installed new lifts (struts) for the engine lid and the luggage compartment lid (from Pelican Parts) - the only Porsche in town that does not use sticks. I'm now ready to move on to bigger and better things. But before I can get under the car, I need to jack it up and therein lies the question - what kind of floor lift and jack stands to use. I've read that there are only four lift points (two on each side). Will any lift and jack work, or do you need a special one that will mate better to the lift points? The Bentley manual says to use wood between the lift and the car. Will all jacks fit under the Porsche, or are some lower that others? Pretty basic stuff, I know, but just thought with all the experience out there, someone would know if one system or brand works better than others or have any tips you want to pass along. Thought I would take off the rear wheel and test the oil level sensor which does not work and maybe change the brake pads. Rebuilt a 1930 Model A Ford in high school, but that was 45 years ago and haven't been under a car since. Thanks,
Earl
I live where there is real winter so the car does not come out of the garage very often. It is plugged into a battery maintainer.
After sitting in the garage (unheated) for 10-14 days and I go to drive it the radio does not work.
More specifically, it powers up, the word 'Porsche" come up on the display panel, but, no sound, none of the buttons or functions work. 5 minutes (or so)later FM preset station #1 comes on. Still no functions work, no volume control, etc. Another 2 or 3 minutes and all is fine.
One suggestion was that the circuit board was shrinking in the cold and expanind when things warmed up a bit.
Problem does not (or at least has not) appeared in anything other than cold weather.
Thanks for any insight.
Does anyone have a solution?
Have you had turbo cars before? The reason I ask is that if you attempt to accelerate at too low an RPM (the speed of the car really isn't the issue here), you will indeed get turbo lag from any turbo car. So I'm wondering if you kept the car more "on cam" so to speak, this would not occur. Maybe you could make a mental note of what RPM you are at when you experience this noticeable 2 second lag and let us know. If this happens say under 2000 RPM, I might tend to agree with the dealer.
Having said all that, he certainly owes you a test for proper turbo boost pressure!!
are RICHARD'S You do your home work you can never
beat the dealership..... Yes you can bargain there is specially
if you are buying a brand new car you have lots of leverage specially on 2008 about $12000 to 18000
discount. Which you will loose as soon as you drive of the lot ??? Be brave you the can be like Mr.Donald Trumph A_H these porsche dealers think that why but they do not drive themselves Porsche's Good Luck
I think what Peer is trying to say is:
Sales people are good hardworking people trying to make a living. Respect them and they will do the same.
Do some research before you buy.
You can get some great discounts on leftover '08 stock.
????
Donald Trump's empire is crumbling and you can be like him. Immersed in lawsuits and bankruptcy proceedings.
Porsches are fun to drive.
Good luck.
Hope that helped!
-----
2008 GT3
222 miles
RS Orange
PCCB
Xenon lights
Red tail lights
Self-dim mirror w/ rain sensor
Nav
-----
They are asking 129k, which seems above original MSRP? So, while I love the car, I need to figure out my walk-away price before going to the dealer today.
What is your walk-away price?
All thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated.
ps. While I love the RS Orange, is it a bit poser to paint a non-RS an RS color?
ps2. Of course the salesman acts like the new economy hasn't affected high-end rare cars, but that just seems like a line. Is there really a solid national market for GT3s? Or are they not selling like the Turbos? There are 10 turbos on the lot with the GT3.
TIA
abaker1
Usually these cars are grouped together as the 1987--1989 with a total production of 2,002, since they are essentially the same car.
Hard to say how many are left but I'd bet most of them. This isn't a car that is generally junked, so unless they've been demolished (and this does happen to this car) they are generally repaired/restored.
The European models have more HP.
**source: "Original Porsche 911" by Peter Morgan, 1998 edition, published by Motorbooks.
92 porsche 911 america roadster (1 owner 103,000km- 65,000 miles)
not worried about cars present mechanical condition as it has full covering report by porsche mechanic and clean carfax)
want to know what overall dependability of this model is and any specific parts subject to failure.
thanks
There's another serious issue with the C2s which may have no bearing on your car. Cars built prior to June 1991 (check on the tag on the door jamb) have been known to develop leaks between the cylinder heads and the cylinder barrels, requiring removing and rebuilding of the upper part of the engine. So again, if the car was built on or before June 1991, off to the specialist you go for an inspection.