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Comments
Those Marks were pretty advanced for late American malaise...maybe the first American with flush headlights.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I had an 81 Mazda GLC. It was totally trouble free and fun to drive. It went almost 150K before the floor board began rusting away. My only complaint was that it had thin materials. There were actually finger impressions on the hatch from closing it and the cheap plastics rattled a lot. It also had tinworm, but so did Honda during that period. I'm not too sure about current Mazda's though because they have a lot of Ford parts in them. I don't think they'll hold up as well as a Toyota or Honda will.
He drove that car for years, then sold it to a coworker, who later sold it to one of his kids. Not bad considering the first month my buddy owned it, the engine blew up with <1k miles on it. Mazda had put the wrong dipstick in the engine, and even though it registered full, it was down three quarts of oil (out of four) and the idiot light didn't work. John almost got rid of it then and there, but in the long haul it turned out to be a "Great Little Car".
Well, the mechanic put another antenna in. He looked all over for an AM/FM radio that would fit in my car and still look stock, but with no luck. Does anybody know any good sources online for something like that?
I'm really excited about getting the car back, although it's going to be a bummer waiting until the spring time to start driving it around.
www.originalcarradios.com
843-333-4949
Sells Pontiac radios, 1963-1977.
And yes, yours could have had an FM.
My fintail has AM-FM, but it was ahead of its times, and I don't think a Becker unit would look right in a 67 Pontiac.
Wow.
It really is a shame that they mucked that poor Riv up like that.
$16,000 , IS HE SERIOUS ?
Anyway, it was a medium blue metallic. Paint was kinda shot, worn down to the primer in places, but overall the car actually looked solid. The interior was fabric, and had some shreds here and there.
Now I know nothing of its true condition. For all I know, the engine could be seized, tranny shot, and floorboards, trunk, and critical points on the unibody rusted out.
Still, the thing looked like it could make a neat old beater. I wonder how it would perform, compared to my '57 DeSoto? It's a similar size but probably a few hundred pounds heavier. But I'm sure the 413-4bbl's 350 hp would more than make up for that added weight, compared to my 341-2bbls's 270 hp!
It is a neat looking piece, but I've never seen one that was lit up.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
So you restore it completely and it's worth what....maybe $60,000? What's it going to take to get you there? Well aside from a new frame and body I mean.
I'd say sell the VIN tags and the powertrain and those pricey little bits, and the rest goes into a wood chipper. That's obviously what the bids are about right now.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
1968 Firebird
2000 BMW Z Coupe. This link doesn't seem to work anymore, but it was a 100K mile car that needed a new front bumper and a few other minor items. My guess is that it was even worse than that description implies. He was asking $10K.
'94 Vette
94 Vette-- looks like a nice car, good upgrades, but boy you're going to have to get used to a massive drop in build quality here. I hope you aren't too sensitive to that. But for $10K, it'll probably beat the pants off your 911 and having the roof come off is nice. Parts are cheap, but then you're going to need them often.
Looks like the 2000 BMW is no more.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Got another trade offer - a '95 M3 (in yellow) and a Sea Doo Jet Boat. I have no other details, but if the M3 was in excellent condition I might be tempted.
I hate sea doos. Just thought I'd mention that.
The only problem with M3s is that what was "performance" back then may not be worth the extra hassle today. I can't say as I've found, in my somewhat limited experience, that M3s are cared for with the same diligence afforded most 911s.
Exceptions abound, of course.
The Alfa does require effort, although I think, unlike most cars, that effort gets easier at higher speeds ... to a point. Obviously, once you pass the point of traction, you are in the weeds quicker than you can blink. In other words, it has a sweet spot (IMHO) where it is a rather "easy" car to drive.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
RE: "High Effort" cars. No I think the 560SL is easy to drive...you just put it in drive and point it, no muss, no fuss. The Alfa Spider could require more effort as most of them do not have power steering--so the modern wider tires make them heavy at slow speeds or when parking, and the gearshift will inevitably grind into 2nd gear up or down.
just a note. dunno if I mentioned it before or not. Mine would grind only if trying to drive it like a modern manual. If I took my time shifting or, better yet, double-clutched, there was no grind. However, not too long before selling it, I switched the trans to Royal Purple synthetic trans fluid (claimed to be designed specifically for manual trans cars that require auto trans fluid - as the Alfa does). I was amazed at how much it improved the shifting. I really COULD drive it like a modern manual and get zero grinding. Great stuff!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S