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Comments
http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/car/53905948.html
Clean truck, very good body and interior, V6 4.3L motor runs ok. 159k. Automatic, 2 door. 4 wheel drive excellent. Motor needs attention - suffers from low oil pressure, needs exhaust pipe after the cat. converter(cat. is new), driver side window doesn't crank up ( but can be moved up & down by hand).
Has roof rack, running boards, fender flares, new Pioneer am/fm tape deck, and heavy duty trailer hitch.
Pictures are available.
For $500, I say it is ok to buy. Now I don't care for these one bit, but for $500, pretty low risk. Worse case, part it out and you could make up the difference.
But a lot of them do survive...for $500, if everything else is OK...you could do worse. It would make a good winter beater in the snowbelt.
But if the engine was bad I wouldn't buy it. It's a lot of work and there's no real upside--these trucks aren't worth very much clean and running anyway.
http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/53889522.html
Better yet, here is a real head-turner with no reserve! The project with this one is keeping your lunch down after seeing it drive down the street.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=6305&item=4513274504&rd=1
I know this probably sounds strange, but it calms my mind a bit, knowing that this car has been given a life extension, at least for the time being.
1)Add Ford motor
2)Put dopey hood scoop and non-stock t/ls on.
3)Remove bumpers
4)Ask outrageous money
http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/dealers.detail/hmn_v- - - ehicle_id/212648
Given the money commanded by the real ones in stock condition it possible that it might pay to convert this car back to stock.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Unfortunately, he also bought a '73 or '74 Benz 450SL from them, at the same time. The Benz arrived first, as I recall. It actually didn't act up on him too much, but I remember looking at it once, and seeing that the 6-digit odometer read something like 182,XXX. "PLEASE tell me that's metric!" was all I could mutter. Nope, it was miles, not kilos :-(
He held onto that one for a few years, and I think sold it for about half of what he paid for it. The tranny must've missed him though, because soon after that it got depressed and committed suicide!
No bids on this almost done Honda yet. The bidding is starting at $700. This kid would be taking a bath if it went for that. Maybe let's call it $15oo or $2ooo.
There's so much that a picture won't tell you but if you read enough, there is a decent list of work to be done (all of them easy fixes of course).
I wouldn't trust this car to buy online. It could be completely butchered and beat on. If it looked good in person, it could be a go since I like the interior.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
All of a sudden, this car is up to $3 grand and has 15 bids. I think that there is some pumping going on. The leading bidders has zero feedbacks, so it's probably one of his buddies. Considering this guy's negative feedbacks that he didn't even bother responding to, I say no way for 3 large.
Only thing is... do you guys ever give anything a thumbs up?
I think it's hard to find a project car in general to really give a thumbs up on, though, because in most cases, it's going to be cheaper to just go find one that's in pristine/restored condition in the first place, than to take a project and restore it to that condition.
While I like it, I wouldn't buy it.
Turboshadow
It's not exactly a project car but it could be modified in about a hundred interesting ways if you were so inclined. Replica Muscle Cars are becoming increasingly popular as the prices of real ones soar into six-figure land.
IIRC, a decent real GT-350 from the first Gen will set you back $50 or $60k.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
If you don't have the money to buy one that's done, you're not likely to have the money to do a project right either. That's why you see so many half baked half done cars here. It's like, "I appreciate that you've invested $10,ooo into a primered rolling shell of a 97 Civic, but it's going to take another $10 grand to finish it, so it's worth $2,5oo now."
Anyone that thinks that they're going to do it and make money off it is poorly mistaken. That game should be left to the Boyd Coddington's of the world.
If you just want an XYz mobile to enjoy, buy the nicest complete one you can find. On the other hand, if the work turns you on (or you want to create something unique), you could be happier with some of these odd ball project cars.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I like the Mustang. I almost bought something similar about 15 years ago, but not as nice (and much cheaper).
Find a clean body shell (yeah, right), and build your own! Every part can be in your garage tomorrow via Fed-Ex, although the chassis and body might take 2-3 days.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
As for the FrankenJaguar Series I Coupe, there is simply no excuse for butchering a work of art. Money or an ego that is miswired does not automatically entitle you to become a barbarian. "It's my Mona Lisa, and I'll do whatever I want with it".
http://hemmings.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/classifieds.cardetail/id- - /2171314
It certainly looks like a low price for a low-mileage 928 in nice condition, whaddya think?
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
928 prices are historically very low but I think this is going to change quickly, now that people realize you can buy a Porsche in great condition, with a V-8, that goes 150 mph, has a huge hatchback, every luxury option, and costs around $6,000 at most (for early 80s models).
People are 'ascared of the maintenance costs, but really you try to fix any old German car these days, be it VW, Audi, Benz or whatever, and you are going to get hosed, so you might as well have fun at it.
Figure $150 a month for everything (excluding gas and insurance) to keep one on the road--presuming you bought a good one in the first place.
I priced a new little Mitsubishi Outlander the other day (just for fun) and it's $399 a month, so there you go. I'm still ahead of the game in a 928.
Of course all Porsches have a rear-mounted transaxle but most don't have V8 torque to transmit.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The drivetrainset up on the 928 as well as the suspension is very VERY similar to the new Corvette and it does make you wonder if GM bought some 928s and tore them apart.
Torque tube bushings/bearing can take a beating on a 928, that is true. With the twin-clutch disk, when you romp on it, it doesn't much slip (racing cars often use this system), so there's a lot of stress.
I rather like the tamer early 928s for this reason but I can get a blower for it for only $4,900, which would punch out probably 350 HP. Given the great brakes and suspension and good motor, the only real concern would be that torque tube stress and somewhat weak 2nd gear synchros.
Best way to drive a stickshift 928---a manly grip on the gearshift and put 'er in easy.
Every since Risky Business, I've wanted one of these. Even though Joel had a tough time giving Joey Pants the slip in his 76 Caddy, that car looked good. "There is no substitute".
IIRC
1)Timing belt breaks
2)Valves hit pistons
3)Engine goes Boom
4)Owner goes oh $#@+**!
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I hate when that happens.
The serpentine belt on the 928 engine is something like 7 feet long (maybe 5, some ridiculous length) and is difficult to adjust. They even have a slack timing belt warning light on the dash.
Fortunately, the early 4.5 liter V8s like mine cannot bash the valves if the belt breaks, nor do I have twin cams or 4-valve heads, so that's good. But then I don't have the power of the later 928s either, which are seriously fast cars even today. To give you an idea, they accelerate rapidly with a stock 2.73 axle ratio.
Since their explanation didn't hold water, I told them not to touch it and had my regular shop pick it up. I was back on the road with a new belt and that's it.
This is why I hate timing belts. When I bought my last car, getting one with a chain was high on my list. Found that in my 03 Altima even though most new car salesmen look at you like you have two heads when you ask about that.
So if I want the Porsche but want the simpler one, what years am I looking for?
Best early 928s would be 1980-82...cheap and cheerful....or buy the very last ones from ...was it...1995 or so?.....
It looks like rust got the better of this car. I don't know if I'd take the chance but if it could be fixed properly it'd be a top-notch and potentially valuable collectible. Anybody think it'd be worth saving?
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I'd imagine this Camaro might be worth a bit because of being an SS, but I'd think the 327 and especially the Powerglide would hurt it. That, and just being a hardtop, versus a convertible.
Cool car, and I know I'm out of touch here with prices, but I wouldn't pay more than maybe $2-3K for it in its current condition. And the part about needing new frame rails bothers me. Now I know a Camaro is unitized, but I'm not sure how GM's unit bodies were designed back then. On Mopars, they actually have a complete sub-frame bback there. The body will usually rust before it does, but once it starts, well that's basically like having the frame rust out on a B-O-F car. And I do know that the '67-69 Camaros, Firebirds, and I believe the '68-74 Novas (maybe the later Camaros and '75-79 X-cars, too?) were designed in a way that the front part of the car is actually isolated from the rest at the firewall. If it gets rusty enough, they can actually break apart at that point!
Now the car would have to be a complete rustbucket at that point probably should have been retired years before, but depending on how bad the car gets underneath, it is something to consider. Especially since cars can be cleaned up and have a coat of paint slapped on to look nice at a quick glance, but being ready to fall apart from the inside out!
Might be harder to fix the amature work than rust.
I think you basically have something that you either buy cheap and use up, or bite the bullet and take it apart and do it right. At least the body seems somewhat straight, but the color is iffy.
Also, is it really an SS? the dash looked kinda strippo for that. If it's legit, must be the cheapo SS package (badges and the minor stuff). The powerglide is also a loser.
If the frame was solid (or easily fisable), swap in a crate 350 and 4 speed, upgrade the interior, and you might have something nice.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Cheap looking interiors were par for the course in the early F-Cars. It'd be easy enough to check the VIN code and find out if it's a real SS.
I dunno the HP rating of a '69 327 but those are real nice motors. It was the first mass-produced motor to have one HP per CID in it's Fuel-injected 1862 version.
The PG would certainly detract from the value but the dirty little secret of the Muscle/Pony car era is that the majority had ATs especially by '69.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Maybe if you had a good parts car, you could turn two into one but for $11,900 no way. If it's not a factory SS, the ceiling on the value is not that high. We don't even know if the bodywork is good under that paint. He doesn't mention new metal, so who knows what's down there.
Mark shifty's words, once the muscle car craze contracts (as it soon will) the cars that will REALLY take the beating are the clones and the wannabees. The "real" cars with the "best" options will do okay but those poor folks who poured money into second-tier muscle cars with no real sex appeal are going to be sorry.
I actually wouldn't care about the car being automatic if it had a 3-speed auto, but those 2-speed automatics are really annoying, unless you have a really huge engine that doesn't care how many or few gears it has!