Ford Ranger III

scape2 · May 2001

key. Get a P265x75R16 or a 30" or 31" tire. Believe me this will make your RAnger have a more aggressive stance, give you more clearance, and stand taller. Tires make a huge difference on how a truck will perform offroad also. BFG, Toyo, and Goodyear are also good tires. Shop around prices can vary quite a bit... Good luck...

gk3 · May 2001

for your response. I'm looking at Michelin LTX M/S size P255/70R16. What do you think of those? Anyone else with some input? Thank you...

urbanallen · May 2001

Hi, Two weeks ago to date, I bought the cheapest 01 Ranger from a dealer here in Oregon. 8988$ sales price for an XL. I had this exact model of truck in 1997 and it sucked, really uncomfortable. Ford has done something to the 01 where it's more truck, much more comfortable. Even the vinyl seats are tolerable... Drives nice, looks beefy enough too, nice tires even though they say Firestone on them, ooops. Anyway I like this truck and you can't beat the price, I just wasn't willing to drive an Accent, the next cheapest car down the cheap car lineup.

jfowlerjr · May 2001

Today I purchased my first truck and new vehicle. Got a 4x2 XLT 4 door 4 liter auto loaded. I have to say this truck is fun to drive. Paid 18000 after 2000 rebate. Do you think I got a good deal?

James

frey4 · May 2001

I would be REAL CAREFUL before I started to change stock tire sizes, especially when going bigger. bigger is not necessarily better. going bigger means that your speedometer will be off, your truck will encounter more drag (higher trucks have more turbulence UNDER the truck), and, bigger tires according to my dealer are harder to balance. in SOME cases, wider can actually affect steering geometry slightly and require camber-caster adjustments: YOU DO NOT want to get into this, especially on a highway truck. i have a 2000 Ranger 4x4, 4.0 liter, 5 sp. aut. it shakes and vibrates, and i can't get it to steer straight. it has only 6700 miles on it. undoubtedly [after much hassle] i have concluded it's the stock Firestones. i am going to go with Michelins (stock 235, 75, 15 size) either in the XCX APT series (older) or the newer LTX series. got to tirerack.com to get an education on what's available: very interesting. if you use the truck for heavy duty use, get a 6 ply tire, which has a stiffer sidewall. the plus in Michelins appears to be their smoothness (important on the highway, where i use my truck). also, i am reading that Dunlop also makes a good tire. AVOID the el cheapo brands. good luck....IMHO, stay with the STOCK SIZE.

scape2 · May 2001

Granted, larger tires will hurt mpg a bit and give you a different ride and maybe change your speedo 3-5mph. (This can be adjusted also) The 235's and 245's Ford puts on the Rangers are puny in comparison to what Toyota and Nissan and Chevy are putting on their compact truck lines. These tires make the Ranger look whimpy and smaller. Go ahead and ask a tire person about putting 31" or 30" or P265 on a Ranger. They fit fine, bumps stops are fine, clearance is good too. I am a Ranger fan and this is one area that gets me angry at Ford. A new Ranger with an offroad pkg is going to debut here soon. It will have stock 31" BFG's. I presently have P265x75R16's (31")on my 1998 Ranger XLT 4x4 and have NEVER had any problems with handling or road feel. It made my Ranger look more aggressive, gives it a better stance, better offroading feel. I do admit my MPG did drop about 1-2MPG though.. I guess it comes down to what you want your Ranger to look like and perform like..

dle01 · May 2001

I have a 1999 Ranger extended cab with the 4 door option. I love the truck, and have found the 4 door option to be great - I can't imagine the truck without it.

The truck is equipped with the rear jump seats, which I believe are standard. I don't have any kids, and think the jump seats are a joke for real adults. The rear area is the domain of my 70lb labrador retreiver, and she could use some more room.

Has anyone removed the jump seats to get more room in their 4 door Ranger? If so, how is it done, and what should I look for? From a visual inspection it appears that the seatbelt assembly could be a problem.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

frey4 · May 2001

I appreciate your comments, but I stand by my post. I use my Ranger as a truck; I am not concerned that I look "macho" driving around town. I didn't buy the truck because it looks "cool". I use it for towing smaller bassboats; if I could get the shake and shimmy out of it, I would love the truck. (I am thinking seriously of trading it for a new Tacoma). Even Ford marketing (I read this in Car & Driver magazine) admits that the big tire phenomenon has been marketing to younger kids who buy the truck to look cool. BIG TIRES WILL NOT BALANCE AS WELL; That is all I am trying to say. Any tire shop who says otherwise is not telling the truth. Going up even ONE size in a tire adds a disproportionate amount of tire (unsprung) weight. I still maintain this affects fuel economy, shock selection, and possibly steering and rollover stability. Good luck.

scape2 · May 2001

I use my 4x4 Ranger as a fishing, hiking and offroad vehicle. I needed, and use the larger all terrain tires as they are supposed to be used. I agree with you that most of these trucks are for show, and the younger crowd loves the larger tires and "macho" look. Just like Toyota and their excellent marketing for the TRD package. A package that give you a locker, some Bilstein shocks and springs and walla! you have a "Toyota tuned suspension" wow!! The locker is useless to the everyday user. It doesn't help you tow, pull or haul. When not activated its an OPEN rear axle. The Bilsteins can be had aftermarket for a fraction of the price Toyota is charging.. Most people buy this truck for the pretty sticker....

sasquatch_2000 · May 2001

I think the bigger tires look cool, and give better off road clearance. I would opt for taller over wider. Wouldn't taller tires give BETTER mileage (from ratio change)? I am not worried about speedometer, since I don't usually drive the speed limit anyhow. Would this "put less mileage on the car" over its lifetime?

Vince8: Are you from that "younger generation"?

Jump seats: I was wondering the same thing. Nothing a set of wrenches can't fix. As far as the seatbelt, how about a razor? Maybe remove just the driver's side seat?

pfe · May 2001

My husband is excited about buying a new pickup truck. As former residence of Arizona we didn't worry about snow. Now with New England winters bringing 3 inches upto 10 inches we are not sure if a 4x2 will drive in the snow.

The 4x4 is $2000 more and we want to get it this week. Does anyone have experience with a 4x2 in a mild to moderate snow? How does it handle? - Pam

navy4 · May 2001

I was raised with 2wd pickups in Oklahoma. I never had a problem with the snow and ice that we got. Make sure you have good mud/snow tires and put extra weight in the bed. Also, drive slow and remember stopping is the key, doesn't matter 2wd or 4wd they stop virtually the same.

sasquatch_2000 · May 2001

I used to drive a 78 Dodge Magnum in the winter on practically bald tires (in college, no money). Just load the trunk with weight (sand is also good for traction, firewood for fires).

If you only drive in mild to moderate snow, you should be fine with a decent set of SNOW TIRES. If you plan on driving in deeper snow, you'll do OK with CHAINS. Positraction always helps too, with baldies, snows, or chains.

I live in MA, and am deciding the same thing. The only difference is that I ski, and would venture out during/immediately after a blizzard and I plan to go off road as well. Still, 4X2 vs 4X4 is a tough decision.

pfe · May 2001

I am new to the truck world and this site is very helpful. In reading the posts above about tires I saw one about vibrating on the highway. We will be doing a lot of highway driving. Is there a difference between the way a 4x2 or a 4x4 handles on the highway? Maybe we really should do a highway test drive before deciding.

dsdrvr01 · May 2001

Own the ranger twin the B3000 Dual Sport and I have had absolutely no problems on highway with it. Much more comfortable than the 94 toy I traded in on the deal. I've already made several long 4-5 hour freeway speed trips and you don't step out the other side sore.

The DS is a 4x2 with the profile suspension of the 4X4, but by all means get them on the freeway before you buy.

I've put 4300+ miles on in almost two months so I am more than willing to say the 4X2 models are a comfortable ride and I'ld expect the same form the 4X4.

sasquatch_2000 · May 2001

I'd imagine the 4X4 has noisier tires, however.

I would NEVER buy a vehicle without testing it under ALL driving conditions (accelerating, high speed, panic stop, cornering, off road, slalom, rolling acceleration, etc.)

scape2 · May 2001

35 young great!! I am fortunate to live in the Great NW. I live about 1 hour from MT Hood (Cascade RAnge) and 2 hours from the Coast Range. I like to fish, hike, and trail my Ranger. When I purchased my 4x4 Ranger in 1998 I had taken it offroad with some friends. I was going up a pretty steep rocky road that had washouts all through it. My Ranger constantly would loose traction. I did however make it up. The next day I went down to Americas Tire and traded my P235's for LT265's. I was told that the Firestones had 4ply and were a "pretty weak" tire. About 2 weeks later we all headed up into the 3 Sisters area of Eastern Oregon to do some hiking and playing. It was like day and night. My Ranger handled terrain wonderfully. If anyone plans on using their Rangers to do even light offroading I highly recommend they change tires ASAP. The Firestones are garbage. I am so glad Ford dropped them. This is one weak spot on the RAnger I sure hope will fix in the coming months. If you look at the Toyotas, Nissans and even Chevy compacts you are able to get much better tires than Ford offers..

jakethefatman · May 2001

I HAVE A 1994 4 CYLINDER RANGER WITH 166,000KMS. WHEN I START IT WITH THE ENGINE COLD, THE RPM'S REV BETWEEN 1100 AND 500 BACK AND FORTH LIKE I HAD MY FOOT ON THE GAS. NORMALLY IT WILL REV UP TO 11OO AND IMMEDIATELY GO BACK DOWN AND STAY AROUND 500 RPM. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS TO WHAT THIS MAY BE? MY TRUCK OTHERWISE RUNS GREAT FOR BEING 7 YEARS OLD. SOMEONE SUGGESTED TO ME THAT IT MAY BE MY THERMOMETER OR A SENSOR.

midnight_stang · May 2001

jake->I had something similair happen to my 93 2.3l at 100k or so. Assuming the maintenance is all kept up (plug, plug wires, air filter) You might check/replace the following.

1 Clean the throttle body, Over the years some oil and or fuel has collected inside. (It's located after the air box, after the air tube, just before the intake minifold.) Just take a clean, lint free rag and wipe the interior. If it's really bad, take off the throttle body and clean all around the butterfly. Be careful NOT to let any dust or grime particles get in the intake, as this goes straight to the combustion chambers.
2. Check the PCV valve, and (I believe it's called)EGR valve. Both are similair, vacuum tube parts, that also get clogged after the years. You should be able to shake either one and the ball bearing inside should have no problem rattling. If it gets stuck, you have sludge or something else in there. If either is really bad, investitage all hoses it attaches to for the same clogging. They should be located on your driver side, either between the firewall and the valve cover, or just underneath the intake manifold runners.
3. Check your mass air flow sensor, as this could be dirty as well.
4. It could also be a clogged oil pickup. This could take it longer to stabilize idle on a cold start. You gotta drop the oil pan to get to this one, but it's probably unlikely it's the cause. The others are much cheaper to do and replace, so check them out first.

If you have a local parts store like Autozone or Pep boys, go buy a Chilton's or Haynes manual for your truck. It has plenty of troubleshooting for these types of problems, with plenty of pictures to help even the most basic novice. Plus it really comes in handy when you have bigger projects fixing or modifing the truck.

Also you might try a bottle of zMax, as this stuff really helps higher milage engines return to their factory smoothness. (It's a micro-lubricant oil additive that works much better than slick 50 and duralube)All internal friction is really reduced, and you'll notice a signifigant drop in operating RPM while driving. Gas milage will go up too. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

midnight_stang · May 2001

http://www1.forddirect.com/dispatch.asp

This site looks updated. You can't do all the extra options yet (like CD player coices, side bars, etc), but it's great in finding which model of Ranger fits your needs and wants. If only I could get a 4.0l Manual with styleside without going 4x4.

jakethefatman · May 2001

Thanks for the advice. That should help me to pinpoint the problem!

joelis · May 2001

"I would NEVER buy a vehicle without testing it under ALL driving conditions (accelerating, high speed, panic stop, cornering, off road, slalom, rolling acceleration, etc.)"

So, I guess that means that you would NEVER buy a NEW vehicle then? It would be kind of stupid to do High Speed Accelerating and Panic Stops on a brand new vehicle without breaking it in first, don't you think?

Last I checked, the dealer usually wants the money before the breakin period is over though...

sasquatch_2000 · May 2001

You don't have to do it with THAT PARTICULAR VEHICLE. Use the dealer's test model for that. That is what test rides are all about.

joelis · May 2001

How is that going to help you avoid the Vibration in the one that you ACTUALLY BUY???

They don't all vibrate the same after all.

sasquatch_2000 · May 2001

I thought you meant a vibration in all of them you wanted to check out.

jfowlerjr · May 2001

Has anyone out there bought the hard tonneau cover that ford list as an option for the 2001? I would appeciate any comments good or bad. I've seen the cover for the explorer sporttrac is it anything like that? Does any water get under the cover or bed liner?

Thanks in advance

James

bolivar · May 2001

This problem is possibly caused by something called a ICS (or something like that - Idle Control Sensor).

It usually on the side of the intake, on my 94 4L it's on the left side. It is silver colored, about the size of a film canister but longer. It will have wires and a connector attached.

This can be removed and dis-assembled and cleaned. It has a solnoid and a valve to vary the air mixture at idle. The valve will carbon up. You might be able to clean with carb cleaner and then just re-install. Or, you might need to buy a new one if it is extremely dirty.

midnight_stang · June 2001

joelis/sasquatch--->It is definately worth while to check everything about the car/truck before you buy. Defects in any weatherstripping, interior fitting, buttons, controls, power accesories, welding points of the bed, tailgate, etc,etc. But you don't want to rag or redline your engine for the first 3-5k miles. There are special additives in the engine oil, in the likes of duralube or zMax, that need that extra time to work into every nook and cranny. All engines are broken in to a point before mounted in the chassis, but every extra bit of precaution is good. But I like sasquatch's idea of thrash testing the "test driver" vehicle... }:>

Isn't Tuesday supposed to be prime day? I forgot what I was told once long ago, but get there right after they unload all the new vehicles. Hopefully you have already test driven a similair model, so you know the model is right for you. Then test drive the actual truck you want, and be gentle, but very aware of how it drives/feels. My girlfriend just recently bought a 2001 accord with 5 miles on the odometer! Pretty darn cool, if you ask me.

jake->You are welcome, hopefully one of those ideas fixes it!

goofyandpup · June 2001

jfowlerjr - Option 66K comes with hard tonneau & a hard bedliner. You may want to reconsider this option due to hard bedliners are notorious for wearing down the paint on the truck bed if anything gets underneath. Option 66K MSRP is $895. I chose to go with a BedRug ($288+$20 shiping @ www.tntserv.com) and an ARE LS II fibreglas tonneau ($655 - $20 off coupon @ www.4ARE.com). Total cost is $943. The BedRug is easy on the knees and can be abused, removed, hosed out etc. The LS II tonneau is reasonably weather tight and can be locked. It extends over the tailgate so you can't open the tailgate when locked. It also mirrors the "V" indentation in the hood so it looks like it belongs on this truck and the paint matches perfectly. I think the combo looks a lot sharper then the hard plastic tonneau and bedliner offered by Ford.
Just my opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide.
John

frey4 · June 2001

i don't use a tonneau cover, but use an ARE cap (fiberglass). the paint match and qulaity are first rate. the design of the cap allows it to fit perfectly, and the company is excelent abut honoring warranties and providing parts or assistance if something like a hinge or gasket goes awry.
QUESTION for anybody (Vince8, are you out there ?). My 2000 model Ranger has never been waxed, and is garaged daily. can anyobody recommend a wax that will not "gunk up" and absorb dirt ? (my Ford is Oxford White). on a white Honda of mine, the wax seems to absorb dirt and get a "film" of crud embedded into it, which requires stripping the wax periodically (a JOB). has anybody use liquid stuff, in a maroon bottle, called "Maguiars" before ? i am thnking of trying that.
ANOTHER QUESTION: will modifying my exhaust system in any way (like a more open muffler) void my warranty ? the dealer DID tell me that a KN filter was OK, so i put one in. i'd like to get a few more ponies out of this doggy 4.0 pushrod six.
TIRES: i have learned that Ford will allow me to replace my tires (Firestone Widerness AT's) with original STOCK sizes at their expense (minus labor). i have also learned that Michelin LTX M/S tires are ON that list. so, that 's what i am having put on next week. i will let you know if that gets rid of the terrible highway vibration in my truck. if it doesn't, i am in a world of sh!#%*@+ !

frey4 · June 2001

for responding to my questions. i am trying to learn from this board. i want to be convinced that i made the right decision to buy a Ranger istead of a Tacoma. i have had so much trouble with the truck i am losing confidence in it.
mostly electrical and tire problems.

davidb72 · June 2001

For a no muss, no fuss wax job try NuFinish. If you are feeling a little more ambitious you may want to take a look at

http://www.griots.com

I use the NuFinish on my ranger, the Griots on my Miata. I think they both do a good job, but the Griots is a little better with admittedly a lot more work...

allknowing · June 2001

The clearcoat paint used these days is a lot more durable and forgiving than in the past. If you want something durable, easy to apply, and without the problem you mentioned, try a showcar wax like Maguiars Yellow Wax. I started using Yellow wax, after trying lots of different waxes, when it was recommended at a car show. I keep my cars and trucks an average of 8-10 years and the paint has looked pretty much like new on all that I've used yellow wax on. The bottled type seems just as good as the paste wax too. I may add that I only wax the vehicles maybe an average of three time a year.

midnight_stang · June 2001

I recommend Maguiar's 4-step (Gold Class?) liquid wax. This gives you four bottles of wax that will remove the dust and dirt already imbedded, polish and protect the paint color and hue. In the store you'll find bottles labeled 1-3, then top it off with a gold class clear coat wax, and it'll be pristine. I even go one step further and put a light coat of rain-x car wax, as this really keeps the dew, rain and mud sprinkles off the paint. http://www.meguiars.com/ for reference

sasquatch_2000 · June 2001

I use NuFinish. Won in Consumer's Reports. Easy to use, good results. Don't believe the once a year claim, do it at least twice (I wash with dish detergent, though).

beernut · June 2001

I could be FOC on this, but I blamed my dad's vinyl roof finish problems on his use of dish detergent. I used it for years on my cars, but became convinced it was a bad thing. It can't be good for the rubber, can it? My Ranger gets Turtle Wax car wash stuff. It works OK and the water seems to sheet off nicely but not too fast to prevent a good chamois job.

On a different note, after some weeks away from this site, I see some discussion about "should I or shouldn't I buy a Ranger". Here are my thoughts: A) Mine is a '99 XLT, extended cab, 3.0L, auto. I love it. Never a lick of trouble, smooth and quiet and it hauls a lot. I've never enjoyed owning or operating a vehicle as much.

I paid $15K for it new. It booked out on KBB last week at $15.2K. That's a good thing. C) Gas mileage? Forget about it! Its a truck. Welcome to truck ownership. Do I get 19.5 mpg or 21 mpg? Who cares? Read my lips ... T - R - U - C - K - !! (Did I spell that right?)

davidb72 · June 2001

Be careful washing with dish detergent, most of them strip waxes right off your paint. Use a milder soap that is made for car washing, only use the dish soap when you are really trying to strip the finish down to the paint.

midnight_stang · June 2001

Wax is basically Grease, which most dish soaps are proud to say they cut right through. You can get a jug of car soap at any parts store for under 3 bucks, and it'll last years.

rangerviii · June 2001

I OWN A 99 FORD RANGER XLT, WITH A 16.5 GALLON TANK.I AM ONLY GETTING 240 MILES TO THE TANK. IS THIS NORMAL?

danny25 · June 2001

I was wondering if anyone else had this problem with their Ranger. I have a '99 XLT ext. cab and the driver's seat creaks and squeaks every time it moves, whether I'm taking a corner, or accelerating. I have taken it to the shop 3 times and they can't seem to be able to fix it permanently. Any ideas, or experiences in that area?

cpfeifer1 · June 2001

To All:

Last November, I leased a 2001 Edge Super cab Flare side with every option available. 4.0L V6, auto (only tarns avail at time) 4.10 Rear end (only way to get 16" wheels), etc. I immediately was surprised by the poor mileage of this truck, and went back to Landmark Ford in Tigard, Oregon several times to have it looked at. Having traded in a Mustang CT convertible, I realized I wasn't going to be getting the mileage of my Mazda Protege, but it was worse than my 1984 F150, or my cousin's 2000 F150 SC 4x4 with a 4.6L V8!

The dealer was of no help. Two weeks ago, after consistently getting 12-16 mpg, I traded the truck in on a Jeep Cherokee at a loss. But now I am getting 18-22 mpg. I would not recommend this truck to anyone looking. Too bad, because other than the dealer problems and the mileage, it was nice truck.

frey4 · June 2001

mileage is a complex subject. it is a function of vehicle weight, aerodynamics (i.e. drag), tire, ground clearance (i.e. turbulence), drivier habits, gear ratio, automatic vs. manual, and the nature of the engine and it's inherent need for fuel at a specific RPM. the Ranger 4.0 V6 is a gas hog for a number of reasons. if you are averaging about 15 in town and 18 to 19 on the highway (with an automatic) you are doing fine. if this is NOT GOOD for your budget, trade the truck in and get a Honda Civic.

scape2 · June 2001

We must not forget these are trucks not cars. As was stated many factors will determine your mileage. As with the person with the 4.0 4x4 with 4.10 gears. This truck was geared for pulling and towing heavy loads, like boats and campers. No way was this truck meant to be a commuter or any truck in that matter. When I read 4.10 gears that said it all.
I own a 1998 Ranger with the offroad pkg 4.0 5spd. I average about 18-19MPG or so with 3.73 gears... I know in these times of high gas prices we are all watching our gas gauges. This gas shortage is a joke. The oil companies are getting rich...

midnight_stang · June 2001

rear end gearing for the mechanically declined are the final multiplier of engine speed to rear wheel speed. 4x4's have more mass attached to the transmission which causes them to have poorer gas milage(even in 2 wheel drive, you still have drive shafts/axles turning both directions) Now a higher rear end gearing (4.10's etc) give you faster acceleration at additional RPM. Thusly 65mph with 4.10 gears could mean 2800 RPM, while 3.73's will allow 65mph at around 2500 RPM. Just guesstimates here, but hopefully this helps inform those who don't know.
Also 4.0l vs 3.0l is a big difference in cubic inch. Cubic inch is the basically the amount of air and fuel that gets compressed in the engine. The larger the engine, the more power it can make, but there is more air and fuel it needs. If you own the truck you have many options to increase performance and MPG. If you are leasing, well you don't want to waste your money adding or replacing components when you won't own it in 2 years.
The Edge package also has ride height comparable to the 4x4 rangers. Thats a lot more wind drag there too. Automatics also waste more with their different gearing. The manual is much more fuel friendly, especially vs. a 4 speed auto. 5 speed automatics have that extra gear, but automatics still suck up a larger percentage of power than manual transmissions,.

goofyandpup · June 2001

I have a 2001 4.0L 4x4 Auto XLT with "doggie doors", 4.10 rear end with "Off Road" package and a hard tonneau cover. I drive 100 mi R/T every day, mostly highway between 65-75 mph. I am averaging 18-18.7 MPG. My previous Ranger was a '98 3.0L 5sp and I was lucky to see 20-21. Normally saw 19 MPG. I thought the 4.0L and Auto were going to kill me but so far I'm happy. With only 2500 miles on this, so far, I expect things to get a little better. I just wish I could have gotten Off Road & 4 doors package with 5 sp (Wake Up FORD!). Yes, the gas gauge is screwy - looks like 3 - 3.5 gallons left when the "check gauge" light goes on (assuming 19.5 gal tank). I know, from past experience that I'll drop 2-3 MPG in winter. I also know that there are only 2 positions, other than "OFF" that the Air Conditioner will not run - "Single Arrow Head" & "Single Arrow Feet". Keeping Climate Control in either of those positions will save some gas.

cpousnr · June 2001

ZYMOL, you get it at Target. Its cheap.

Will make a junkyard car shine like a new penny.

cpousnr · June 2001

Rangers take a long time to break in. Mine a 4.0 took at least 10,000 miles.

I started off getting 16-18mpg. With the stock 235 tires it went up to 20 city, 24-25 hwy.

I put on 31X10.5X15 tires and it went down a bit.

My last trip 4 wheeling to W. Colo went as follows:
When I what wheeling a bit and then driving hwy I got 20.5mpg. When I was returning home went from Delta Colo to Denver, 319 miles on 13.59 gal. which included a run up over the Grand Mesa taking the back way through to I-70, lots of climbing on one side.

That is about 23.5 mpg.

99 XLT 4X4, 4.0L manual 5 speed.

cpousnr · June 2001

have a soft bed cover. I think that helps increase mpg a bit.

Plus I run synthetic oil. Best thing to do to these trucks. It helps mpg and engine live.

And I have the KKM filter, that adds a bit.

rangerviii · June 2001

i forgot too mention this is a 4 cylinder,2.5 liter.it has stock tires , and sits high. is 240 miles , still normal. thanks to everyone who has responded so far.

danny25 · June 2001

It depends, are you using all 16.5 gallons? I have the 2.5L 5spd also, in an ext. cab XLT with a 19.5 gal tank. I usually go about 350 miles with 95% city driving. I get about 21.5 mpg, to figure the mpg fill your tank the same way every time (top off about the same) and divide your miles by the number of gallons you just put in and that should give you a good mpg estimate.

Ford Ranger III

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