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Ford Ranger III

1101113151623

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    pro02pro02 Member Posts: 19
    To anyone who has the 2001 Ranger 2.3 w/ 5 spd automatic, I'm interested to hear what kind of gas mileage you're getting. Thanks.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    On the new 4.0l v6, does it have coils on each spark plug, or is there still a ignition pack?
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    goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    Midnight Stang,

    My 2k1 4.0L has an ignition pack. My engine manufactured in Cologne, Germany 11/00.

    Any more questions, let me know.
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    96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    I have a 96 4.0 and was curious as to where it was made.
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    jcc6jcc6 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 V6 4.0L 4WD XLT Ranger. It has a manual transmission, and I am very satisfied with the horsepower and the way the truck handles. However, on three separate occasions, I have stalled out downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. All three times I've had the A/C on and it has been raining. The rpm's really take a dive with the A/C on when I downshift, but the stalling has only occurred during rainstorms. I took it in to be checked but they found nothing wrong....Any Suggestions??
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
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    goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    96flea,

    I believe the 96 4.0 was built in the US. The 2k1 4.0 in the Ranger is the same 4.0 that originally was he optional 4.0 in the 97 Explorer. My 2k1 engine has a sticker on the left rocker cover stating mfg date and origin. I have also read where the 5-sp auto is built in France. Have seen other parts from Mexico & Canada. Somehow they all came together in New Jersey and even more a surprise seem to work pretty well. At least for 2.5 months and 4500 miles.
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    pinettedpinetted Member Posts: 104
    I have a 96 Ranger XLT 4x4 with about 57K on it. We purchased it used with 10K on it and the only problem we have had is with the clutch slave making noises. It has been replace twice under warrenty and has started acting up again. The truck is now out of warrenty and I am getting ready to fight with the dealer about the repair. Anyone else have a similar problem?
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    tammycampbell8tammycampbell8 Member Posts: 17
    I had my tranny worked on back in 1999 for the ball bearings. They had it for about 2 weeks once I got it back I noticed that I was sticking in 1st and 2nd gears on the truck. The Ford house told me it was normal and it would evently wear off. Now in 2001 I have a medal to medal sound when shifting and using the clutch. This truck only has 27,000 miles on it and I ran over the 3 year waranty on it in May of 2001. I am gonna go and battle FORD AGAIN, with another found on road dead product they sold me. if any of you have any advice or similiar problems plse email me at tlc88@bellsouth.net
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    tammycampbell8tammycampbell8 Member Posts: 17
    I went and took my ranger to a independant tranny service place. The man told me that my front bearing main shaft gear was going out. He also told me that the ford people should not rebuild these tranny's cause they arent rebuildable you just invite more tranny problems down the road. he told me the ford people should be putting new ones in instead of rebuilding them.
    I am persuing ford to replace my tranny seeing their mechanics overhauled my manual tranny assembly.
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    cpousnrcpousnr Member Posts: 1,611
    The 4.0 engine is a Kolone 60 deg V6 engine. I thought it was built in Germany.

    flea:
    I think your fuel filter problem was the lack of a special tool to remove the fitting.
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    dano101dano101 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 ranger 2.3l w/ a 5 speed, 54,000 miles. Seems like a lifter noise, similar to a diesel engine sound on startup. This lasts until the engine is warmed up. Sometimes it is more noticeable than at other times. Seemed like it started after an oil change. Using the same model of oil filter. Using 5w30 oil. Not sure if it is related to oil change. Any others experience this?
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    rta3rta3 Member Posts: 4
    I had a 1987 dodge slant six that did exactly as your 96 ranger is doing.I replaced the lifters and all was quiet on the western front.It seems like not many miles for a lifter replacement.Try a K+N oil filter first and see if this helps.
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    96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    Whenever i shift to reverse it takes about 3 seconds for it to actually grab. This does not happen all the time. Also, i am now getting a shimmy around 65-85mph. Its not felt in the steering wheel but more towards the floorboard. I do all preventive maintnance so what could it be? I have noticed it leans towards the front drivers side. Maybe a balljoint or cv joint, i don't know.
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    cellmatescellmates Member Posts: 11
    I am looking at buying a 4 cyl Ranger XLT this week and when I went to the Ford lot I saw lots of XLTs with the 2.5L engine and a few with the 2.3L engine. These two engines looked completely different under the hood - 8 vs 4 spark plugs etc. The 2.3L is rated 24 and 28 for mpg while the 2.5L was 22 and 26. Trucks seemed identical (including price) except for the engines. My question is: Which would you choose? Which engine do you think is more reliable?

    I had been leaning towards a Tacoma, but I don't think I can pass up the discounts on the Rangers.

    Any input would be appreciated.

    cellmates
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    The new 2.3l are 4 valve engines. I have a 1993 2.3l SOHC with 137 thousand miles and it's still running like new (with a little help from zMax). Ford has been making great 4 bangers for a while, so either will perform well, but since the 2.3l has all the newest technology, it's supposed to outperform the 2.5l I'd recommend it.

    Edmunds says the 2001 2.5l has 119 hp@5000 and 146 ft/lbs torque @3000. While the 2001 2.3l has 135 hp @5050, and 153 ft/lbs torque @3750.
    Like all 4 valve engines, you gotta rev it a bit more to feel the power.
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    frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    that "clunk" sounds suspiciously like a driveshaft yoke problem: either you got a defectively machined spline-mating surface, or, perhaps it is DRY and needs lubed (Ford specifies a specific type of grease for that purpose). try going to
    www.alldata.com to look for TSB (technical service bulletin) that addresses that problem. (it is interesting to note that Ford went to an all ALUMINUM shaft in their 3.0 liter Ranger extended cabs, but not in the 4.0....is this an admission of a long-standing problem >???? i don't know, but it sure sounds fishy to me). i cannot speak to problem that REGULAR cabs have, as their driveline dimensions and psrt numbers are obviously different than my extended cab. i think the "vibrating Rangers" is one of Ford's dirty little secrets... good luck.
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    96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    Thanks for the info. I don't think i have to worry about it too much cause it only happens once or twice a month. The vibration comes and goes. It was riding like a Caddy today, i don't get it.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Aluminum drive shafts are a common way to free up rotating mass, and via newtonian physics, that reduces the amount of force required to accelerate or decelerate that inertia. Aluminum having less weight than steel, would definitely help the under powered 3.0l v6. But why not the 4.0l as well? Might have something to do with the tensile strength of aluminum, or cost, or both. I would prefer the new aluminum drive shaft in all Rangers, but I would also like the turbo 2.3l SVO engine in place of my NA one... :)
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    black00impalablack00impala Member Posts: 6
    Hey, any of you guys with the 2001 EDGE CLoth/Vinyl seats having problems with the vinyl being to hot against your skin in the summer. I cant believe Ford didnt use leather/cloth or at least have an all cloth option for those of us that hate vinyl.

    Thats the only thing holding me back on buying a new Edge over the regular Rangers.

    Thanks for your input.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    30 bucks at Autozone, and usually much nicer looking than factory. Plus you don't have to worry about staining up your seats, you just replace the covers every 3-4 years or so.
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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I have a 93 ranger with 123K miles. I want to occasionally once or twice a year pull a 2500 Colman pop up camper for 200-300 mile range.

    Does anyone have any opinion about pulling the camper with manual tranny. Will it hurt the transmission?
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    mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I used to tow a 1,500-lb. Starcraft pop-up with my 1994 2.3-liter Mazda B2300 5-speed (same as Ford Ranger 2.3). Never had any problems in the mountains of Virginia ... as long as I didn't mind ascending some grades at 20 mph!

    Meade
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    frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    You'd better review your physics. You can't " accelerate or decelerate inertia" ! LOL ! You can, however, accelerate or decelerate a MASS. I think I know what you are trying to say, but technically, your statement doesn't make sense. Better skip the physics and stick to trucks.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Next time I'll drink more caffeine before I respond to your posts... :)

    Inertia is more or less the current state of acceleration of a mass. With a lower mass, the force required to change(accelerate or decelerate) that momentum is less. I think the point was made clear enough, if my terminology wasn't 100% perfect. Perhaps velocity would have been a more accurate term?

    Inertia: The tendency of a body to resist acceleration; the tendency of a body at rest to remain at rest or of a body in straight line motion to stay in motion in a straight line unless acted on by an outside force.
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    cookwcookw Member Posts: 12
    Hi all, a couple weeks ago I took advantage of the $2500 Ford rebate and bought a 2001 Edge. It has the 4.0, Edge-plus pkg (flareside, 6 CD changer, tilt and cruise), it is a light color (chrome yellow) so the inside does not get too hot, at least not like my dark blue car. I have not had any problem with the vinyl part of the seat, the AC works fast! I love this truck! The engine has loads of power, and sounds great too. The only complaint, and it is minor, is that the suspension is the same as the 4X4, even though it is only 2 wheel drive, this makes for a stiff ride.
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    guardianoguardiano Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2k1 ranger s/c edge - auto
    with the 4.0-- there is a slight "thud"
    in the rear end when i acclerate lightly.
    anybody else have this problem?
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    cellmatescellmates Member Posts: 11
    Made the decision to buy the 2.3l xcab instead of the 2.5l or 2.3l regcab. Picked it up yesterday for 13.5k out the door at Portsmouth Ford in NH. My wife wanted the xcab for the dog. Impressions after 1 day: the clutch/tranny are much nicer than my wife's new subaru forester and so is the stereo. My wife's comment was "Gosh, I didn't think a truck would ride this nice".

    cellmates
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    tlc88tlc88 Member Posts: 3
    I got my tranny fixed. But with this experience on the alumiun trannys aren't rebuildable. This was the 2nd time for my ranger and its mileage is at 28,000. The 1st time was at 10,000.
    Another thing I notice about these Ford Dealer Ships is the craftmenship of their mechanic's that work on our FORD'S. The mechanic's simply POOR. Some of these service dept's need a cleaning out of mechanic's who continusly fail at their job they are suppose to preform outstanding.

    In May of 2002 I am rid of both of my FORD'S. I find that when problems arrive that the dealers are less opt to help or investigate the nature. As this last dealer told me that after the 36,000/3 year waranty Ford has meet its obligation. (meaning) F.U.

    In the mean time I will keep both my Ranger and Taurus running till may and I will never buy another dam ford again.
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    aaftabaaftab Member Posts: 4
    I purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger XCAB about a month ago from a small dealership in TN. After couple of days driving I noticed the truck makes constant pinging and knocking upon acceleration. It happens only when truck is in gear ( this is a 5 spd tran. with only 30K miles) and accelerating. There is a constant banging that is felt through the gas and clutch padels as something were hitting them. I took the truck to my local Ford dealership and explain the problem, so they said to
    leave the truck with them. I was called that evening, the truck was ready to go. When leaving the dealership I noticed the
    problem was still there, so I went back to speak with the service adviser and he asked me to come back tomorrow and a transmission tech will ride with me to narrow down the problem. Next day the transmission tech takes the truck for a ride with me and says " oh you definetly have a problem" so the service adviser asked me could I leave the truck for couple days? so after TWO WEEKS my truck was ready or
    so I was told but guess what? they rebuilt my transmission
    and the truck is still pinging knocking and banging. I took it another Ford dealership they told me this 3.0 engine has ignition/ timing problem which Ford is trying to fix and as soon as they come up with a solution we will call you. Now I called the Ford CRC and they asked me nicely to take it back to the first dealership and they will recheck the concern.
    At this time they kept the truck for 3 more days and told me that this truck has throttle body knock and all the Ford Rangers have that, so I asked them to put it in writing but the manager at the service dept. told me he could not do so because this is considerd "normal operational vehicle". I have made 5 phone calls to Ford and the last time I was told to wait two more weeks "they are opening a case file about my concern"
    Notice they call it CONCERN not a PROBLEM.

    Any help or suggestions?
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A large percentage of Ranger 3L motors have ping.

    It's a well known problem. Obviously not well known to you before you bought the truck.

    Little can be done other than run higher octane gasoline. Go to mid-grade, hope this helps. If not, premium.

    This is a long-time problem with 3L, across many years through 1990's and into current production also.
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    frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I was lucky enough to have discovered these truck boards before I got a Ranger. I bought a 4.0 to avoid the pinging problems. However, with the 4.0 you get knocks (probably piston slap) and shakes !! But, I will admit it is almost an ideal small truck motor to use with an automatic because it has such a flat torque curve. The 3.0 should respond to high octane; it will just cost more to run. But, that is still cheaper than getting another truck. One guy on here once mentioned using "additives", but I am sorry that I can't recall what brand. I assume it was an "octane booster" product. You might even try the high octane gas and/or booster just to DIAGNOSE that fuel in fact IS a cure. I also remember a guy saying he reduced ping by altering the INTAKE TRACT of the truck and using a different air filter. If I run across that post I will let you know.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    It's just a tough working engine (Extended cab weight) with relatively high compression. All modern EFI vehicles adjust the ignition and timing depending on speed, acceleration, load, etc. So this 'pinging' occurs only during times of highest strain, either heavy acceleration, with payload, or up a incline.

    At a minimum use 87 octane(Some areas offer lower octane as "standard"). Try stepping up until your notice the problem going away.

    Anybody with a 3.0l have experience with reducing or eliminating the problem with small performance modifications? Exhaust, K&N, snorkle removal, pulleys, wires or plugs?

    Also please remember that there is a "Ford Ranger Problem" Forum available as well...
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    mjbwrtrmjbwrtr Member Posts: 172
    hearing all this and seeing Edmunds and other sites saying "spotty build quality" and such, have made me waver on my choice of a new s-10...are they really that bad?
    let me explain. i am looking for a new truck...a stripped down one which i can get great mileage and be able to do work on my house with and transport hunting and fishing supplies. i also commute quite a ways and i tend to hang onto vehicles and drive them until they sputter and kill themselves in the driveway for fear of going yet another mile. :)
    so my choices are Ford Ranger with the new 4 cylinder, and the s-10 with the 2.2.
    i want a manual tranny, air conditioning, cloth seats, and maybe a CD player. any suggestions or preferences? i could also use info regarding which engine is best.
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    frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    Stay away from both the Ranger and S-10. The Toyo with a 4 banger and 5 speed will give you 250 000 miles of highway driving with little trouble.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Buy a stripper Tacoma, get next to nothing in options, but it will be cheap, and will probably last a while.
    Buy a Ranger, for under 12,700 MSRP, get a clock, anti-theft alarm, tachometer, clock, and ABS standard. The only option I would recommend is the A/C and/or CD Player.
    On Tacoma, the base model starts at 12,300 MSRP, but if you add ABS brakes ($590), you have to also purchase power doors and windows (additional 500). A 3 dollar digital clock in the base Tacoma costs 82 bucks. And if you add Intermitant wipers (standard in Rangers, which you probably want more than just "ON" or "OFF" wipers) the wipers must come with tilt wheel in Tacomas for another $245 bucks. $439 is the cost of the passive anti-theft alarm, another standard in Ranger.
    Grant total of comparably equiped "Base" vehicles(no A/C, no CD player):
    Ranger: $12,695 MSRP
    Tacoma: $14,196 MSRP

    And the A/C costs $985 in Tacoma. In Rangers it is standard for the Edge and XLT models, but is a $650 option for the XL.

    Don't let the disenchanted fool you, I've been driving a '93 with 2.3l automatic for close to 8 years, and have over 137 thousand miles on it, and the valve cover has yet to be taken off. Still get over 21-22 MPG in the city. I'm 24 now, and this was my first vehicle purchase. And at age 16, you can imagine the abuse and torment I subjected this vehicle to. Ranger's are no slouch when it comes to long-term reliability.

    If you want safety, look at the crash ratings for 2001.
    http://nhtsa.com/ncap/cars/2001Pkup.html
    http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/low_speed_smpkup.htm
    But test drive them, and make your own informed decision. That's the best way to go.
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    moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    With the $2500 rebate I am considering the purchase of a Ranger XLT 4X4 Supercab with 4.0L and auto. What I want to know is what is the real world mileage of this truck by it's owners?
    Any insight as to mileage and experiences is appreciated.
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    frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    2001 4.0 xlt 4x4 5 speed auto with 16 inch wheels and LSD and open bed (I think it is 4.11 diff): highway at steady 65 is about 19 mpg [this truck has 18700 miles on it]. this truck is owned by a fellow teacher friend.

    My truck, ditto above except is is the 2000 pushrod 4.0, with a cap, and higher gearing with 15 inch wheels: highway at steady 65 is also about 19 to perhaps 19.5. Overall average for each truck is about 15 to 16 mpg. My truck only has 13K on it, and mpg has improved with more miles. I am trying to sell it to buy a full 1/2 ton truck, which IMHO, will get as good, if not BETTER, mpg than the ranger. Good luck. (The 3.0 will do better on gas by about 1 to 1.5 mpg if you can put up with the pinging).
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    jfowlerjrjfowlerjr Member Posts: 20
    I just bought a new ranger myself in may buy I've only got the 4x2 and I seem to average 21 miles a gallon with 80% highway driving. And by the way the new 4 liter seem to get better mileage than the 3.0 liter.

    James
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    goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    Moparbad,

    I have 2k1 supercab 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55 rear-end. Just turned 6K miles, mostly city driving with A/C on. I'm running 17-18 MPG. Haven't really had on hi-way for more that just a few miles.
    Pretty lousy compared to my 90' 2.3L 5-sp. But it makes me smile when I put my foot in it......
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    cellmatescellmates Member Posts: 11
    My 01 XLT with XCab and 2.3l engine does not have a label on the door jamb detailing recommended tire pressure; does anyone know what is the recommended pressure front and rear? The tires are Firestone Wilderness HT 15 inch 225/70. Any help would be appreciated.

    cellmates
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    It should be listed somewhere around the rim..
    Owners manual should have it too, or try calling a Firestonre/Bridgestone store.
    Otherwise 28 psi (cold) is good for milage and smooth ride, while 32 is better for traction and turning. 30 or 32 is always a good place to start.
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    cellmatescellmates Member Posts: 11
    I'll try 30 for now. I used to work in the tire business and I try to run at the manufacturer's recommendation whenever I can. Believe it or not most car and tire manufacturers do a fair amount of testing before approving a tire and pressure for a particular vehicle (I know, the Ford Explorer fiasco makes that hard to believe).

    I had checked the manual and it tells you to look at the label on the driver's door jamb. There is a max pressure on the sidewall of 35 but that sounds high to me for normal use. When I get a chance I'll open the door on a new one at the dealer's and copy down the label info.

    Not to bore you, but I bought a new Subaru Forester for my wife this spring and Subaru delivered it to us with all 4 tires and the full size spare at 45! After our first trip I was wondering why it rode so hard, so I checked the tire pressure and boy was I surprised! According to Subaru they pump up the tires to avoid flat spotting during shipment. That gave me a good read on how much was done during the "dealer prep" for my car.
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    jdbishopjdbishop Member Posts: 36
    I have a 01 XLT Regular Cab Flareside with the 2.3L and the door sticker calls for 30psi cold for both front and rear. I suspect that the same pressure would apply for the Super Cab.
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    cellmatescellmates Member Posts: 11
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    eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    The center armrest/console is now hanging to one side and getting looser with time. As far as I can tell, one broken bolt in the bracing mechanism is to blame. I know this is a fairly common problem, and the dealer quoted me almost 300 dollars for repairs, saying the whole thing had to be replaced. I see no point in spending that much on an OEM interior part, especially when I could get lots of nice aftermarket ones for about the same or less. The design of it seems junky anyway, doesn't seem securely enough attached to the seat to bear that much weight.

    Anybody found a cheaper fix? And if not, can anyone point me to where I could get a good deal on an aftermarket console that would fold up like this one when not in use?

    Next Question: Looking at buying 2001 or 2002 Ranger in about 2 years. Would want 5 speed manual/4wheel drive/power everything. Could anybody with a similar set up give an idea of gas mileage? (MUST be a stick) Please specify city or highway. I know various factors affect mileage, but I just want a general idea. IfI could consistently average 16-17 mpg Id be happy. Also, how is the wind noise? The 2001 4x2 I drove sounded like a wind tunnel at anything over 60 mph. I know a truck will be louder than a car, but my 95 regular cab cruises all day at 80-85 without making nearly as much wind noise as this one did at 60, and I want to know if maybe it was just a problem or wind leak with that particular truck.

    thanks
    ed
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    jkstew2jkstew2 Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in purchasing a 2001 ranger. Can anyone tell me the difference between a 4dr supercab XLT (SB) 4x4 with 4.0L V6 with option 392A vs. option 393A? There is a difference of over 1,000 bucks, but I don't see any difference in options that you get between the vehicles. Can anyone help?
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    amoralesamorales Member Posts: 196
    They lowered the Ranger, added performance upgrades, dual exhaust tips, looks nice. Something for the mini-truckers who are into slammed pick-ups.
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    midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    XLT Package 392A
    Includes standard equipment. This feature is identified by model code R15/392A.

    XLT Package 393A
    Package contains Rear 3.73 Axle Ratio, Cruise/Speed Control, Tilt Steering Wheel, Sliding Rear Window. This feature is identified by model code R15/393A. Package includes a discount of $425 (invoice) and $500 (retail).

    According to www.invoicedealers.com, the 392A is only no charge, while 393A costs $385 MSRP/371 Invoice. With the discount, it looks fairly close to the difference you're seeing in price...
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    96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    I would run 89 octane. If that does not work use 93 but it takes a while. Maybe a month. It helped on my 4.0. Also, you may not know but the previous owner could of installed a Superchip or something similar.
This discussion has been closed.