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Ford Ranger III
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My 2k1 4.0L has an ignition pack. My engine manufactured in Cologne, Germany 11/00.
Any more questions, let me know.
I believe the 96 4.0 was built in the US. The 2k1 4.0 in the Ranger is the same 4.0 that originally was he optional 4.0 in the 97 Explorer. My 2k1 engine has a sticker on the left rocker cover stating mfg date and origin. I have also read where the 5-sp auto is built in France. Have seen other parts from Mexico & Canada. Somehow they all came together in New Jersey and even more a surprise seem to work pretty well. At least for 2.5 months and 4500 miles.
I am persuing ford to replace my tranny seeing their mechanics overhauled my manual tranny assembly.
flea:
I think your fuel filter problem was the lack of a special tool to remove the fitting.
I had been leaning towards a Tacoma, but I don't think I can pass up the discounts on the Rangers.
Any input would be appreciated.
cellmates
Edmunds says the 2001 2.5l has 119 hp@5000 and 146 ft/lbs torque @3000. While the 2001 2.3l has 135 hp @5050, and 153 ft/lbs torque @3750.
Like all 4 valve engines, you gotta rev it a bit more to feel the power.
www.alldata.com to look for TSB (technical service bulletin) that addresses that problem. (it is interesting to note that Ford went to an all ALUMINUM shaft in their 3.0 liter Ranger extended cabs, but not in the 4.0....is this an admission of a long-standing problem >???? i don't know, but it sure sounds fishy to me). i cannot speak to problem that REGULAR cabs have, as their driveline dimensions and psrt numbers are obviously different than my extended cab. i think the "vibrating Rangers" is one of Ford's dirty little secrets... good luck.
Thats the only thing holding me back on buying a new Edge over the regular Rangers.
Thanks for your input.
Does anyone have any opinion about pulling the camper with manual tranny. Will it hurt the transmission?
Meade
Inertia is more or less the current state of acceleration of a mass. With a lower mass, the force required to change(accelerate or decelerate) that momentum is less. I think the point was made clear enough, if my terminology wasn't 100% perfect. Perhaps velocity would have been a more accurate term?
Inertia: The tendency of a body to resist acceleration; the tendency of a body at rest to remain at rest or of a body in straight line motion to stay in motion in a straight line unless acted on by an outside force.
with the 4.0-- there is a slight "thud"
in the rear end when i acclerate lightly.
anybody else have this problem?
cellmates
Another thing I notice about these Ford Dealer Ships is the craftmenship of their mechanic's that work on our FORD'S. The mechanic's simply POOR. Some of these service dept's need a cleaning out of mechanic's who continusly fail at their job they are suppose to preform outstanding.
In May of 2002 I am rid of both of my FORD'S. I find that when problems arrive that the dealers are less opt to help or investigate the nature. As this last dealer told me that after the 36,000/3 year waranty Ford has meet its obligation. (meaning) F.U.
In the mean time I will keep both my Ranger and Taurus running till may and I will never buy another dam ford again.
leave the truck with them. I was called that evening, the truck was ready to go. When leaving the dealership I noticed the
problem was still there, so I went back to speak with the service adviser and he asked me to come back tomorrow and a transmission tech will ride with me to narrow down the problem. Next day the transmission tech takes the truck for a ride with me and says " oh you definetly have a problem" so the service adviser asked me could I leave the truck for couple days? so after TWO WEEKS my truck was ready or
so I was told but guess what? they rebuilt my transmission
and the truck is still pinging knocking and banging. I took it another Ford dealership they told me this 3.0 engine has ignition/ timing problem which Ford is trying to fix and as soon as they come up with a solution we will call you. Now I called the Ford CRC and they asked me nicely to take it back to the first dealership and they will recheck the concern.
At this time they kept the truck for 3 more days and told me that this truck has throttle body knock and all the Ford Rangers have that, so I asked them to put it in writing but the manager at the service dept. told me he could not do so because this is considerd "normal operational vehicle". I have made 5 phone calls to Ford and the last time I was told to wait two more weeks "they are opening a case file about my concern"
Notice they call it CONCERN not a PROBLEM.
Any help or suggestions?
It's a well known problem. Obviously not well known to you before you bought the truck.
Little can be done other than run higher octane gasoline. Go to mid-grade, hope this helps. If not, premium.
This is a long-time problem with 3L, across many years through 1990's and into current production also.
At a minimum use 87 octane(Some areas offer lower octane as "standard"). Try stepping up until your notice the problem going away.
Anybody with a 3.0l have experience with reducing or eliminating the problem with small performance modifications? Exhaust, K&N, snorkle removal, pulleys, wires or plugs?
Also please remember that there is a "Ford Ranger Problem" Forum available as well...
let me explain. i am looking for a new truck...a stripped down one which i can get great mileage and be able to do work on my house with and transport hunting and fishing supplies. i also commute quite a ways and i tend to hang onto vehicles and drive them until they sputter and kill themselves in the driveway for fear of going yet another mile.
so my choices are Ford Ranger with the new 4 cylinder, and the s-10 with the 2.2.
i want a manual tranny, air conditioning, cloth seats, and maybe a CD player. any suggestions or preferences? i could also use info regarding which engine is best.
Buy a Ranger, for under 12,700 MSRP, get a clock, anti-theft alarm, tachometer, clock, and ABS standard. The only option I would recommend is the A/C and/or CD Player.
On Tacoma, the base model starts at 12,300 MSRP, but if you add ABS brakes ($590), you have to also purchase power doors and windows (additional 500). A 3 dollar digital clock in the base Tacoma costs 82 bucks. And if you add Intermitant wipers (standard in Rangers, which you probably want more than just "ON" or "OFF" wipers) the wipers must come with tilt wheel in Tacomas for another $245 bucks. $439 is the cost of the passive anti-theft alarm, another standard in Ranger.
Grant total of comparably equiped "Base" vehicles(no A/C, no CD player):
Ranger: $12,695 MSRP
Tacoma: $14,196 MSRP
And the A/C costs $985 in Tacoma. In Rangers it is standard for the Edge and XLT models, but is a $650 option for the XL.
Don't let the disenchanted fool you, I've been driving a '93 with 2.3l automatic for close to 8 years, and have over 137 thousand miles on it, and the valve cover has yet to be taken off. Still get over 21-22 MPG in the city. I'm 24 now, and this was my first vehicle purchase. And at age 16, you can imagine the abuse and torment I subjected this vehicle to. Ranger's are no slouch when it comes to long-term reliability.
If you want safety, look at the crash ratings for 2001.
http://nhtsa.com/ncap/cars/2001Pkup.html
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/low_speed_smpkup.htm
But test drive them, and make your own informed decision. That's the best way to go.
Any insight as to mileage and experiences is appreciated.
My truck, ditto above except is is the 2000 pushrod 4.0, with a cap, and higher gearing with 15 inch wheels: highway at steady 65 is also about 19 to perhaps 19.5. Overall average for each truck is about 15 to 16 mpg. My truck only has 13K on it, and mpg has improved with more miles. I am trying to sell it to buy a full 1/2 ton truck, which IMHO, will get as good, if not BETTER, mpg than the ranger. Good luck. (The 3.0 will do better on gas by about 1 to 1.5 mpg if you can put up with the pinging).
James
I have 2k1 supercab 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55 rear-end. Just turned 6K miles, mostly city driving with A/C on. I'm running 17-18 MPG. Haven't really had on hi-way for more that just a few miles.
Pretty lousy compared to my 90' 2.3L 5-sp. But it makes me smile when I put my foot in it......
cellmates
Owners manual should have it too, or try calling a Firestonre/Bridgestone store.
Otherwise 28 psi (cold) is good for milage and smooth ride, while 32 is better for traction and turning. 30 or 32 is always a good place to start.
I had checked the manual and it tells you to look at the label on the driver's door jamb. There is a max pressure on the sidewall of 35 but that sounds high to me for normal use. When I get a chance I'll open the door on a new one at the dealer's and copy down the label info.
Not to bore you, but I bought a new Subaru Forester for my wife this spring and Subaru delivered it to us with all 4 tires and the full size spare at 45! After our first trip I was wondering why it rode so hard, so I checked the tire pressure and boy was I surprised! According to Subaru they pump up the tires to avoid flat spotting during shipment. That gave me a good read on how much was done during the "dealer prep" for my car.
Anybody found a cheaper fix? And if not, can anyone point me to where I could get a good deal on an aftermarket console that would fold up like this one when not in use?
Next Question: Looking at buying 2001 or 2002 Ranger in about 2 years. Would want 5 speed manual/4wheel drive/power everything. Could anybody with a similar set up give an idea of gas mileage? (MUST be a stick) Please specify city or highway. I know various factors affect mileage, but I just want a general idea. IfI could consistently average 16-17 mpg Id be happy. Also, how is the wind noise? The 2001 4x2 I drove sounded like a wind tunnel at anything over 60 mph. I know a truck will be louder than a car, but my 95 regular cab cruises all day at 80-85 without making nearly as much wind noise as this one did at 60, and I want to know if maybe it was just a problem or wind leak with that particular truck.
thanks
ed
Includes standard equipment. This feature is identified by model code R15/392A.
XLT Package 393A
Package contains Rear 3.73 Axle Ratio, Cruise/Speed Control, Tilt Steering Wheel, Sliding Rear Window. This feature is identified by model code R15/393A. Package includes a discount of $425 (invoice) and $500 (retail).
According to www.invoicedealers.com, the 392A is only no charge, while 393A costs $385 MSRP/371 Invoice. With the discount, it looks fairly close to the difference you're seeing in price...