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Chevy Suburban

1246720

Comments

  • abbottchapelabbottchapel Member Posts: 3
    Need some advice! Has anyone tackled replacing the ball joints, pitman arm and idler arm on a 94 GMC Suburban? I just had the starter replaced for $398 and need to save some $$ so I'm wondering if I should tackle this job myself. I bought the Haynes manual and on a 1-10 scale of difficulty (10 being something like replacing a busted timing belt) this looks like about a 6/7.
    Should I jump on this or spend the $1,300 to have a mechanic complete?
    Thanks,
    Craig
  • gfergiegfergie Member Posts: 2
    GMC have made a mint from parts for my '99 'burb. I think it must have come off the line at 4:00pm on a Friday of a long weekend....
    The steering column turn signal cluster is a weak link in the electrical system. What appeared to be a simple flasher problem developed into a high priced (over-priced) turn signal assembly. GM will tell you different, however, they can't keep the parts needed for repair in stock in Ontario. What does THAT tell you?
    A friendly mechanic (GM) says, "you didn't hear it from me but...we replace that part on a regular basis".
  • brcoda11brcoda11 Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to program a keyless entry remote for 1996 chev. suburan. I bought an extra remote off ebay but didnot get program instructions. any help would appreicated.
  • piratedhpiratedh Member Posts: 2
    Intermediate drive shaft, the one right up against the firewall. Socket is worn. Try buying from OEM parts online instead of dealer and have a reputable mechanic/dealership install. Dealership charged $80 to install my part and now steering is tight again.

    2001 Suburban
  • piratedhpiratedh Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem when slowing down (sometimes) and when making a sharp turn (often). Just had the Fuel Pump replaced because of recall and didn't go away. I'm replacing the fuel filter next and will update on what happens. Idle air control has been mentioned as well on other forums.

    '01 suburban
  • fjmfjm Member Posts: 1
    JUst got the bad news on Friday that ABS Module need to be replaced on my 2000 Suburban (70K) along with a related piston? Total price $1895. Needed because a ground fault is coming from module. Previous fix, which did not work, was replacement of a bolt, washer and nut that I believe the mechanic thought was causing the fault as indicated by the ABS and Brake dash light coming on. The replacement of this bolt might fix your problem. It is worth asking. I will be watching for other replys. I have a e-mail out to repair facility to see if they can fix the module and replace myself. good luck.
  • abbottchapelabbottchapel Member Posts: 3
    I have a 94 Suburban and have had lots of luck with Michelins MN series. I have 265/75/16's mounted and I'm getting about 70,000 miles on them. Excellent tires. There about $170per but considering the mileage I'm getting...worth every penny! Good luck.
  • dmark1dmark1 Member Posts: 1
    At times my 01 Suburban has really low idle speed. It is most noticeable when the AC is on. It drops to about 350 rpm and the AC does not work properly nor does the alternator put out well at such a low rpm. Sometimes it has an oscillation to the idle. Up, down, up, down between 350 and 500 rpm. If I hold the pedal down a little and hold about 500 rpm it all works fine. Any ideas as to a solution ?
  • winterswinters Member Posts: 1
    2005 Z71-4WD is my 5th Suburban. Last one was 5.7 '96 w/ 241,000 miles. Frequently drive in eastern mountains. 2005 does not hold back in 3rd or 2nd - must ride brakes to keep it from gaining too much speed for the turns. On cruise control on interstate will often jump from 1800 to 4500 rpm to maintain set speed - usually just at the beginning of a grade after coming down a slight incline. Even when in 3rd and running at 2800 it will still jump to 4500. This can't be good for the engine, and I know it is not good for economy. What do I do? Are aftermarket chips an answer?
  • gaustingaustin Member Posts: 1
    I just went through this problem with our 99 Tahoe. Our Tahoe had 110,000 miles on it. Most likely the Suburban won't start and I'll give you the cheapest easiest fixes first, chances are it is one of 3 things, a bad fuel pump relay: if it is, it costs about $15 and is located in the "under the hood" fuse box. Look under the fuse box lid for location of the relay. #2 The oil pump pressure switch/sending unit: you can determine this by unplugging the wire connector to the sending unit and jumping the 2 end terminals together it is a 3 wire connector. If the fuel pump starts which is identified by a hum from the tank then it is most likely the oil press/sending unit.#3 The wire connector to the fuel pump itself could also be bad, but this is difficult too because you have to drop the fuel tank to get to it also. I know the oil pressure switch/sending unit sounds unrelated but the wiring circuit to the fuel pump has a branch that is routed through the oil sending unit and it can cause the pump not to operate if it goes bad. The oil sending unit (OSU) is in a difficult location in the back of the engine under the distributor and it takes a deep socket to remove. The fuel pump, if it is actually bad, is a big job especially if you have a full tank of gas. It is usually best to remove the gas before trying to drop the fuel tank. Most tanks nowadays are difficult to get a siphon hose into. The fuel pump I bought cost $180 from an auto parts store and figure 2 or 3 hours of labor just depends on how good/quick they are. There are a few tricks to dropping the tank and there are some fuel line connector tools required but they are not expensive. If you do change the pump, you'll also need to change the fuel filter. After everything I said earlier, you may want to check that the fuel filter is not plugged up...it is a possibility, but I have never seen a plugged up fuel filter. I, of course, buy my gas at reputable places, but if you don't I guess it's reasonable to look at in addition to what I told you. Good Luck Hope this helps!
  • jimmyojimmyo Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and I know what it is (the retaining ring which sits on a spring inside the morror has popped off). The problem is I don't know how to fix it. Did you get any replys to your message post? The dealer wants to replace the whole mirror assembly for a couple hundred bucks.

    Thanks.

    Jim
  • trey915trey915 Member Posts: 1
    I know it has been over 2 months since you posted, but I figured I would let you know that your Chev dealer can pull up the expanded views and show you the parts so you can cross reference them. It is a little inconvenient because you have to actually go there, but they can also provide a print-out of the view so you will have them. Hope this helps.
  • e99e99 Member Posts: 1
    I have 99 burb with factory security system and when using keyless remote to kick in security nothing happens. It locks doors and will sound horn but never see the security flash or if open door no alarm. Am I missing something dealer suggest new keys did that no change. Now they suggest ingition switch replacement does that sound right. Any ideas would be helpful
  • ace918ace918 Member Posts: 3
    These are the instructions I received when I purchased my aftermarket remote, haven't had a chance typo test it yet.

    This requires a test light with an alligator clip lead on one end and a probe tip on the other end.

    1. locate the diaganostic plug located under drivers dash, usually a 12 pin black female plug.

    2. find a good ground, clip the test light to the ground. test the light by touching the tip of the light to 12v, the light should light.

    3. touch the tip of the light to the top far right pin of the plug, the power locks should jump ( cycle up and down). If the locks fail to cycle touch the the bottom right pin. the light should light as the locks cycle.

    3. as soon as the locks cycle, keep the light pressed to the pin and press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the first (#1) remote until the locks cycle, may take 5 - 20 seconds. keeping the light connected, now take the # 2 remote and press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time till the locks cycle.

    4. remove the test light

    you should not have to re program the original remotes,but if you do just follow the above instructions and repeat step 3 once for the old and once for the new remotes.
  • ace918ace918 Member Posts: 3
    Does anybody have the instructions for programming a remote for a 2005 suburban, is it the same as my 1996 described already?
    Thank you
    Ace918
  • ace918ace918 Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone had a problem with the mirrors NOT returning to their proper position when the car is put in reverseand the self adjusting mirrors move to the "curb" view . my mirrors stay in this position after i shift into drive. This is a random occuring problem.

    I had this and other "electronic" problems on a 2002 Trailblazer i traded in on this Suburban, I hope the problems did not jump from car to car, as the problems in the trailblazer were never fixed. I really would hate to have to shoot this car as i love the blue metallic paint job.
  • mke1mke1 Member Posts: 3
    If you can grind out the rivets and have a floor jack to control the A arm you would earn an A to do it youself.
  • mke1mke1 Member Posts: 3
    My 99 has brake issues, 86k replaced radiator and fuel sending unit. Power door lock motors are crap. If the rear brakes work right then the front won't shimmy, 3 sets of rotors already.
  • abbottchapelabbottchapel Member Posts: 3
    Thanks mke1. I'm going to try this next week. I'm looking at purchasing a impact wrench to help with the job. Got any suggestions? Chordless/Electric/Air?
  • yellowbigshotyellowbigshot Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know if i can swap the second row fold down seats from a 1978 to a 1990...? thanks.
  • malibumanmalibuman Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Suburban with 44000 miles. It has a slight vibration at speed over 65 mph. Had new tires installed and drive shaft balance checked. The vibration does not increase or decrease with the gas pedal. Any ideas out there?
  • maleamalea Member Posts: 2
    Hi there! I just bought a 2002 Chevy Suburban 2500 on June 6. I have literally drove it 1 day and it has been in the shop ever since. It only has 52,000 miles on it, but it just dies in the middle of the road. I'm wondering does your battery light come on as it shuts off?

    I would love to get my sub back from the shop - any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
  • maleamalea Member Posts: 2
    When I purchased a 2002 Chevy Suburban 2500, it just had the remote start uninstalled. The lady said the vehicle would just die on her, going down the freeway, turning a corner, anything - just die.

    She said the problem was fixed, but unfortunately it isn't. Has anyone ever had problems with a remote start making a vehicle stall?

    After I coast to the side of the road, I put it in park, TAKE OUT THE KEY (it will not start if you do not take the key out), and drive away. Maybe another 15 - 20 miles, sometimes 50 miles and it stalls again.

    The shop has double checked the wiring, they say everything checks out on the computer, runs great. I told them to keep it until it stalls on them!!

    ANY IDEAS??? It has less than 60k on it.

    Thanks!!
  • mallthusmallthus Member Posts: 1
    I know this post was made some time ago, but it's still coming up on Google, so I thought I'd address it.

    The Duramax diesel is a new design direct injection diesel created and produced by DMAX, Inc., a joint venture between General Motors and Isuzu (itself a subsidiary of GM). It was introduced in 2001 model year GM trucks. It is, without question, the best diesel ever installed in a new GM light duty vehicle. Paired with the Allison 1000 series transmission, it's essentially on par with the current Ford Powerstroke and Dodge Cummins offerrings. Preference is as important as performance when comparing the three.

    That said, the '96 Suburban's diesel is a 6.5l Turbo Diesel based on the 6.2l diesel introduced during the 1980s. It was a pretty refined engine and, other posts notwithstanding, part of a fairly robust drivetrain by '96, when it was paired with the either the 4L60-e or 4L80-e transmission (I can't recall which). Before that, it was paired with the 700R4 transmission, which was a 4-speed version of the old TH-300 transmission. Early versions had MANY problems and it was always only barely adequate in V-8 installations. From a performance standpoint, it is an also ran in comparison to the Ford and Dodge engines. From this vintage, all light truck diesels liked to eat automatic transmissions, with the Dodge's the worst, followed by the GM. That the Ford's was best is really by default and not a testement to how good it is.

    Good luck!

    Mallthus
  • gregmiscgregmisc Member Posts: 17
    Dealer in Colorado Springs called me about replacing my fuel pump in my 1999 GMC Suburban for FREE. He said they were doing a study on fuel pumps used at higher altitudes. Has anyone heard of this or is this some kind of scam?
  • lrlwreathlrlwreath Member Posts: 1
    I currently live in Florida, we are going to be driving from Florida all the way up to Minnesota. We are looking at trading in our 1996 Suburban for a new one.

    Does anyone have any reccomendations on good dealerships. Because we don't NEED to purchase in Florida. How to I search what I want and different dealerships all over the US?
  • burbmomburbmom Member Posts: 4
    I also have a 2000 suburban with 63k miles on it and was having trouble with it stalling at various times during the day and not everyday. This started within 2 weeks of having the 60k service performed on my burb including fuel injectors cleaned and transmission being serviced.

    I recently received a letter from chevy stating that there might be a problem with certain 2000 suburbans and a recall will be coming. It states that on some of these suburbans that the fuel module reservoir assembly that contains the fuel pump wires and / or connectors may overheat under certain operating conditons. This condition may result in one or more of the following conditions: 1) an engine stall or no start condition due to a blown fuse, 2) inaccurate fuel level readings, and /or,3) a service engine soon light. A service engine soon light might be an indication that fuel vapor, or in some other cases liquid fuel, may leak out of the top of the fuel tank when the level is above 3/4 full.
    They also state that if the condition is due to overheated wiring in the fuel module reservoir assembly that your dealer will repair with existing parts, as repair kits are made available at a later date.They will be sending another letter out to let you know when that will be available. Chevy assistance center 1-800-630-2438 8 am - 11 pm.
    Long story short, I called my service advisor at my local chevy dealer and was told to bring it in for an inspection free of charge.
    I was told I had a bad fuel pump and the service advisor fought with chevy management and was told to replace it if they had the parts (which they did) otherwise it would have been $800 out of my pocket.
    If you go to www.nhtsa.dot.gov I think you can find more info on it there. Sorry this is so long! Hope this helps!! Maybe you can get some compensation also.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I received the same letter. I have a 2000 burb w/ 53,000 miles. I don't have stalling problems, but my fuel pump makes a loud whining noise when it's hot out. Here in Kansas it has been in the mid to high 90s with low 100's the next few days. It really gets nice an loud in this type of weather.

    I think I'll give my dealer a call to see when the recalled parts are available. I'm going to try to have them replace the fuel pump at the same time and see if they'll cut me a break on labor, since the tank has to be pulled for the recall anyway.
  • rbssuvrbssuv Member Posts: 1
    I hope you find a solution to this problem. My 01' suburban does exactly the same thing.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Well, we've now passed the year mark and 20k miles with the '04 Suburban LS 2wd we traded our '02 Avalanche Z66 for. It's been a mostly positive experience and, honestly, the Suburban is a much better fit for our needs and uses in a vehicle, but not all is grand.

    For example, while the Av only ever went in for repair twice, the first being a rearview mirror glass that cracked on a cold night and one foglight that filled with condensation, the Suburban has been back quite a few times and will need to again soon, for at least one or two other issues.

    Problems to date, with the Suburban:
    -Terrible loud creaking and rattling in driver's side rear quarter panel, fixed, mostly, by repositioning some insulation, the wheel well liner, and the jack
    -Lightbulb just rolling around in the passenger's door instead of being in the bottom reflector light socket--simple fix
    -Gas gauge started going funny and would either do a dance or stay on full for weeks at a time, a problem they fixed by dropping the tank and putting in a new sender unit
    -While changing the oil one day, noticed a large area around the transmission was wet and then found that the transmission was, in fact, leaking. Drained the fluid, replaced a seal, and put new fluid in.

    Current, unresolved issues:
    -Lately, wipers are now nuts, going in all sorts of speeds when just on the first delay notch.
    -Tachometer still buzzing loudly as it has been from day one, but it works, so we never pay much attention.
    -When turning, the rear locking diff. (we think...) clunks and pops.
    -Occasional funny creaking/rattling, still, from the same quarter panel area in the rear. 95% of the time, it's silent, but occasionally, and weirdly, it still does it.

    Things that still bug me:
    -The Av had the firmer Z66 suspension with the Bilsteins in front and load levelers out back, plus larger tires, and, I still think, rode MUCH better than this Suburban. In actuality, the Suburban's cheapo shocks and smaller 16" wheels actually give it a cushier feel, but once you hit some bumps, it floats a little too much and tends to crash over cracks and ruts that the Av just glided silently over.
    -Structure not as stiff as the Avalanche's (I knew this beforehand) and it's clear after owning both. Where you could crash over bumps and not feel a wince in the structure or suspension in the Av, the Suburban feels more unsettled and you hear tiny creaks/rattles in the structure.
    -BOSE 6-CD system sounds pretty pathetic for what it should be, and not even as good as the base Delco system the Av had, IMO.

    Overall, not a lot of big problems, but highly annoying after coming from an Av that's essentially the same truck, but without any of the problems. Still really enjoy it, especially the Summit White paint (SO, SO much easier to care for than the Av's Onyx Black), the 8-passenger seating, the rear AC, and the much improved, though still not great, brake pedal feel over the '02 Av. Just crossing my fingers it doesn't really start falling apart after the warranty runs out at 36k, because there will be no trading this one in for a new one anytime soon...
  • carsonsaintscarsonsaints Member Posts: 2
    I just picked up a 05 and it pinged and popped at cool down quite a bit. I found the tsb that was suppose to reduce it. But when I go it back it made more noise and even loader. I'm taking it back to the dealer to get it checked out again. I can deal with a low ping at cool down, but when it ping when I drive and idle and you can hear it from 2 houses down, that's just ridiculas, especially what we pay for these cars :mad: If i can't get it to quite down, I'm really tempted to get a cat-back.">
  • trevdtrevd Member Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying that I am a novice at this so my procedure/instructions are pure sandlot. However, this is the second time I have changed my PCV valve in my Z71. So here it goes. First off You have to remove the plastic valve cover (should have Vortex stamped all over it). Second, locate what I call a shiny aluminum tube/coil located near the top right of the area that was covered by the valve cover. Directly behind the coil you will see a thick black hose. Follow the hose downwards and towards the front firewall (in the direction of the windshield) of the engine bay. The PCV Valve is attached to the end of the hose.
  • noillinatornoillinator Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Suburban with under 60000 miles on it. I recently went to Ohio and on the way filled up my gas tank. When I came out of the store, I found gas was leaking from the tank. I thought I must have over filled the tank. A week later when the tank reached 1/4 level the truck would not start. It turned over fine. No gas was being pumped. The service center said that If you run you tank below 1/4 full you could burn out the pump. Anyone ever heard of that? GM said it is not under this recall. :sick: I think I am on my last GM car.
  • robertyroberty Member Posts: 1
    Yes... I noticed that on mine as well. Only happens on the passenger side. I need to get it looked at, I've turned it off...I don't really like the feature anyway.
  • pmdicpmdic Member Posts: 1
    THE STARTER WON'T TURN OVER ON THE FIRST TRY, ALWAYS ON THE SECOND TRY. I TRIED A NEW STARTER & RELAY AND IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING. THANKS
  • carsonsaintscarsonsaints Member Posts: 2
    I figured out why the pinging got loader. Whoever did the tsb didn't install the new shield correctly. On the tsb it notes to make sure the new shield doesn't come in contact with any piece of the old shield and not to come in contact with the horizontal seam on the muffler. When I went to check it out it was doing both. So I loosened up the 3 straps and adjusted the shied. The sound didn't completely go away but is now to much quieter.

    FYI for anyone getting the tsb done.
  • gregonlinegregonline Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 K series Suburban that idles just fine. When you get on the road and press on the throttle however, it stalls and wants to cut out. I have replaced one injector that I thought might be bad, the PCV valve, the fuel filter all to no avail.

    Any suggestions?
    :sick:
  • jocaanjocaan Member Posts: 1
    I had good brakes when I bought this car. The shoes and pads are worn but not super critical. The brakes had a "mushy" feel when the brakes started to weaken. The brake fluid was dirty so I thought the first place to start would be to bleed the brakes. I put two new wheel cylinders on the rear wheels when the bleeding screws broke off. In trying to bleed the brakes after the wheel cylinders changed, I accidently drained the front chamber of the master cylinder-I was checking the level as I bled the brakes but somehow it happened. Now when I try to bleed the brakes there is very little fluid coming out (as before also) when the brake pedal is depressed (it goes down almost completely to the floor).
    The books I have do not mention how to bleed the master cylinder while on the car as I now assume I must start there. What are the steps to follow if I have to start at the master cylinder?
    Plus, one of the manuals says to hold the combination valve (its next to the master cylinder downward to the left I think) open during the bleeding process (which I had not done before when I bled the brakes). I see the combination valve and there are two knobs on either end with rubber caps on them. Should I pry these rubber caps off? How would I open these valves without this special tool that is mentioned? The book says an assistant can hold the "metering pin" in if I do not have the tool. I guess this holding the metering pin in keeps the valve open. Will I be able to see this "metering pin" if I pry these rubber caps off the combination valve? Can these rubber caps be pried off?
    This is a 94 Chevy Suburban that I just purchased so I do not know its history.
    TIA, Frank C.
  • sbreckensbrecken Member Posts: 1
    My 01 does the same thing. sbrecken
  • scozimscozim Member Posts: 10
    We just bought a 98 Suburban that's in awesome shape so we can fit the family in it (where I come from it's called a Whitman County Cadillac). We're getting rid of our truck and 5th wheel and with the owners manual on the truck it was real easy to figure out on the VIN tag what rear end gearing I had.

    The owners manual on the Suburban is not very much help. How do I know which gears I have in this thing?

    Thanks.
  • dellgatedellgate Member Posts: 3
    I have 2001 Suburban (c1500 2wd, LT, no autoride) with 50k mi. I am thinking about getting new shocks on Suburban. Any thought on Bilstein shock? Did any one try Bilstein on C1500 2wd?

    If you know quality shop/mechanics who work on shocks in So. Calif, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  • go8go8 Member Posts: 58
    Anyone have problems with the driver memory settings? It does not seem like the driver memory settings (i.e., seats, mirrors, pedals) are being recorded. I am pressing the memory button until it beeps twice, which I believe is correct. Any help would be appreciated.

    Regards,
    Go8
  • bhappy666bhappy666 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 05 Suburban. I don't know what I was thinking when I didn't get the video system. I let my wife pick the truck. :confuse: Now I am searching for the right one. I am in the Va Beach area.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    I think there is a TSB about the memory setting retention problem that came out recently...don't remember the exact wording but I do recall reading about it. I reckon if you go to the NHTSA website you should be able to find a summary about it...
  • oldblueburboldblueburb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 4WD w/ a 454 and about 140k on it. The only main issue I have had with it, which goes for most of the model years your looking at, is the front brakes and rotors. They wear quickly. Last set of mine were gone in under 5k, typically an annual change The rotors on these K2500 are not easy to replace either. There is a recommended Service Bulletin that address the issues it calls for special rear pads, new valve kit and a new proportioning valve. I have recently just tried this so I can't tell you if it works. Makes sense though, since my rear brakes have shown little wear over the life of the vehicle.
  • dsh1958dsh1958 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Suburban that has had the ABS light on for a number of months. Our local dealer has indicated that it is due to trama to the front passenger wheel and that we need to replace the hub assembly for ~ $500. We know there has been nothing of the sort. We were also surprised to find out that this would not be covered under the warranty. I am wondering if you ever heard anything from your inquiry.

    :sick:
  • anravelanravel Member Posts: 2
    I am NO expert by any means but "the guys" I work with & my husband have all said that running your tank F to E is not good for the pump. And I'm one to run it F to E--got scared & stopped doing it.

    Alisa
  • stormin68stormin68 Member Posts: 1
    Certainly I've heard of that and it is true of ALL fuel injected vehicles. The Electric fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank and relies on the fuel itself as coolant. If you allow the fuel to drop below the top of the pump it will overheat and if done consistently WILL eventually fail. My mechanic told me that when my Dodge Daytona left me stranded with a dead pump.
  • donwiechersdonwiechers Member Posts: 1
    Hello there - I have the exact same problem in my 93 sub. I undo the taillights, replaced the switch and it still blows the brake and turn fuses. Did you figure out what the issue was?? This would help so much. Thank you, Don
  • warlock49766warlock49766 Member Posts: 3
    I've got the above mentioned vehicle and in the past couple of weeks she's been acting up on me. In the mornings, or anytime the vehicle sets for a few hours it is VERY hard to get started.

    You turn the key and it cranks just fine but it will not start and run. After making several attempts to start it it will finally start but does so like it does not really want to. (like it's hitting on 3-4 cylinders running wise and then finally catches up to itself and runs fine) I've changed plugs, cap, & rotor and am not sure if it is actually a electrical problem at this point but maybe a loss of fuel prime to the cylinders.(almost like a vapor lock) This is your normal 5.7 350cu. in. Vortec engine. I also had thoughts about a bad ignition coil but after it does start it runs just fine and continues to do so until it is parked again for a while.

    I think I need some second opinions,... or maybe someone who might have delt with this problem and found the demon causing it could enlighten me as to the fix they used.

    ANY suggestions would be welcome!!
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