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Comments
Should I jump on this or spend the $1,300 to have a mechanic complete?
Thanks,
Craig
The steering column turn signal cluster is a weak link in the electrical system. What appeared to be a simple flasher problem developed into a high priced (over-priced) turn signal assembly. GM will tell you different, however, they can't keep the parts needed for repair in stock in Ontario. What does THAT tell you?
A friendly mechanic (GM) says, "you didn't hear it from me but...we replace that part on a regular basis".
2001 Suburban
'01 suburban
Thanks.
Jim
This requires a test light with an alligator clip lead on one end and a probe tip on the other end.
1. locate the diaganostic plug located under drivers dash, usually a 12 pin black female plug.
2. find a good ground, clip the test light to the ground. test the light by touching the tip of the light to 12v, the light should light.
3. touch the tip of the light to the top far right pin of the plug, the power locks should jump ( cycle up and down). If the locks fail to cycle touch the the bottom right pin. the light should light as the locks cycle.
3. as soon as the locks cycle, keep the light pressed to the pin and press both the lock and unlock buttons at the same time on the first (#1) remote until the locks cycle, may take 5 - 20 seconds. keeping the light connected, now take the # 2 remote and press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time till the locks cycle.
4. remove the test light
you should not have to re program the original remotes,but if you do just follow the above instructions and repeat step 3 once for the old and once for the new remotes.
Thank you
Ace918
I had this and other "electronic" problems on a 2002 Trailblazer i traded in on this Suburban, I hope the problems did not jump from car to car, as the problems in the trailblazer were never fixed. I really would hate to have to shoot this car as i love the blue metallic paint job.
I would love to get my sub back from the shop - any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated!
She said the problem was fixed, but unfortunately it isn't. Has anyone ever had problems with a remote start making a vehicle stall?
After I coast to the side of the road, I put it in park, TAKE OUT THE KEY (it will not start if you do not take the key out), and drive away. Maybe another 15 - 20 miles, sometimes 50 miles and it stalls again.
The shop has double checked the wiring, they say everything checks out on the computer, runs great. I told them to keep it until it stalls on them!!
ANY IDEAS??? It has less than 60k on it.
Thanks!!
The Duramax diesel is a new design direct injection diesel created and produced by DMAX, Inc., a joint venture between General Motors and Isuzu (itself a subsidiary of GM). It was introduced in 2001 model year GM trucks. It is, without question, the best diesel ever installed in a new GM light duty vehicle. Paired with the Allison 1000 series transmission, it's essentially on par with the current Ford Powerstroke and Dodge Cummins offerrings. Preference is as important as performance when comparing the three.
That said, the '96 Suburban's diesel is a 6.5l Turbo Diesel based on the 6.2l diesel introduced during the 1980s. It was a pretty refined engine and, other posts notwithstanding, part of a fairly robust drivetrain by '96, when it was paired with the either the 4L60-e or 4L80-e transmission (I can't recall which). Before that, it was paired with the 700R4 transmission, which was a 4-speed version of the old TH-300 transmission. Early versions had MANY problems and it was always only barely adequate in V-8 installations. From a performance standpoint, it is an also ran in comparison to the Ford and Dodge engines. From this vintage, all light truck diesels liked to eat automatic transmissions, with the Dodge's the worst, followed by the GM. That the Ford's was best is really by default and not a testement to how good it is.
Good luck!
Mallthus
Does anyone have any reccomendations on good dealerships. Because we don't NEED to purchase in Florida. How to I search what I want and different dealerships all over the US?
I recently received a letter from chevy stating that there might be a problem with certain 2000 suburbans and a recall will be coming. It states that on some of these suburbans that the fuel module reservoir assembly that contains the fuel pump wires and / or connectors may overheat under certain operating conditons. This condition may result in one or more of the following conditions: 1) an engine stall or no start condition due to a blown fuse, 2) inaccurate fuel level readings, and /or,3) a service engine soon light. A service engine soon light might be an indication that fuel vapor, or in some other cases liquid fuel, may leak out of the top of the fuel tank when the level is above 3/4 full.
They also state that if the condition is due to overheated wiring in the fuel module reservoir assembly that your dealer will repair with existing parts, as repair kits are made available at a later date.They will be sending another letter out to let you know when that will be available. Chevy assistance center 1-800-630-2438 8 am - 11 pm.
Long story short, I called my service advisor at my local chevy dealer and was told to bring it in for an inspection free of charge.
I was told I had a bad fuel pump and the service advisor fought with chevy management and was told to replace it if they had the parts (which they did) otherwise it would have been $800 out of my pocket.
If you go to www.nhtsa.dot.gov I think you can find more info on it there. Sorry this is so long! Hope this helps!! Maybe you can get some compensation also.
I think I'll give my dealer a call to see when the recalled parts are available. I'm going to try to have them replace the fuel pump at the same time and see if they'll cut me a break on labor, since the tank has to be pulled for the recall anyway.
For example, while the Av only ever went in for repair twice, the first being a rearview mirror glass that cracked on a cold night and one foglight that filled with condensation, the Suburban has been back quite a few times and will need to again soon, for at least one or two other issues.
Problems to date, with the Suburban:
-Terrible loud creaking and rattling in driver's side rear quarter panel, fixed, mostly, by repositioning some insulation, the wheel well liner, and the jack
-Lightbulb just rolling around in the passenger's door instead of being in the bottom reflector light socket--simple fix
-Gas gauge started going funny and would either do a dance or stay on full for weeks at a time, a problem they fixed by dropping the tank and putting in a new sender unit
-While changing the oil one day, noticed a large area around the transmission was wet and then found that the transmission was, in fact, leaking. Drained the fluid, replaced a seal, and put new fluid in.
Current, unresolved issues:
-Lately, wipers are now nuts, going in all sorts of speeds when just on the first delay notch.
-Tachometer still buzzing loudly as it has been from day one, but it works, so we never pay much attention.
-When turning, the rear locking diff. (we think...) clunks and pops.
-Occasional funny creaking/rattling, still, from the same quarter panel area in the rear. 95% of the time, it's silent, but occasionally, and weirdly, it still does it.
Things that still bug me:
-The Av had the firmer Z66 suspension with the Bilsteins in front and load levelers out back, plus larger tires, and, I still think, rode MUCH better than this Suburban. In actuality, the Suburban's cheapo shocks and smaller 16" wheels actually give it a cushier feel, but once you hit some bumps, it floats a little too much and tends to crash over cracks and ruts that the Av just glided silently over.
-Structure not as stiff as the Avalanche's (I knew this beforehand) and it's clear after owning both. Where you could crash over bumps and not feel a wince in the structure or suspension in the Av, the Suburban feels more unsettled and you hear tiny creaks/rattles in the structure.
-BOSE 6-CD system sounds pretty pathetic for what it should be, and not even as good as the base Delco system the Av had, IMO.
Overall, not a lot of big problems, but highly annoying after coming from an Av that's essentially the same truck, but without any of the problems. Still really enjoy it, especially the Summit White paint (SO, SO much easier to care for than the Av's Onyx Black), the 8-passenger seating, the rear AC, and the much improved, though still not great, brake pedal feel over the '02 Av. Just crossing my fingers it doesn't really start falling apart after the warranty runs out at 36k, because there will be no trading this one in for a new one anytime soon...
FYI for anyone getting the tsb done.
Any suggestions?
:sick:
The books I have do not mention how to bleed the master cylinder while on the car as I now assume I must start there. What are the steps to follow if I have to start at the master cylinder?
Plus, one of the manuals says to hold the combination valve (its next to the master cylinder downward to the left I think) open during the bleeding process (which I had not done before when I bled the brakes). I see the combination valve and there are two knobs on either end with rubber caps on them. Should I pry these rubber caps off? How would I open these valves without this special tool that is mentioned? The book says an assistant can hold the "metering pin" in if I do not have the tool. I guess this holding the metering pin in keeps the valve open. Will I be able to see this "metering pin" if I pry these rubber caps off the combination valve? Can these rubber caps be pried off?
This is a 94 Chevy Suburban that I just purchased so I do not know its history.
TIA, Frank C.
The owners manual on the Suburban is not very much help. How do I know which gears I have in this thing?
Thanks.
If you know quality shop/mechanics who work on shocks in So. Calif, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Go8
:sick:
Alisa
You turn the key and it cranks just fine but it will not start and run. After making several attempts to start it it will finally start but does so like it does not really want to. (like it's hitting on 3-4 cylinders running wise and then finally catches up to itself and runs fine) I've changed plugs, cap, & rotor and am not sure if it is actually a electrical problem at this point but maybe a loss of fuel prime to the cylinders.(almost like a vapor lock) This is your normal 5.7 350cu. in. Vortec engine. I also had thoughts about a bad ignition coil but after it does start it runs just fine and continues to do so until it is parked again for a while.
I think I need some second opinions,... or maybe someone who might have delt with this problem and found the demon causing it could enlighten me as to the fix they used.
ANY suggestions would be welcome!!