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Chevy Suburban

1235720

Comments

  • j2wicej2wice Member Posts: 2
    My suburban just would not turn over last week and after checking everything found out it was not getting any gas to turn it over with. I was told that i had a bad fuel pump and purchased a new one that did not look like the original i pulled off also i tested the old pump and it will run so we narrowed it down to the fuel pump relay which was bad this has been replaced and everything put back together truck started and ran no problem parked truck over night and now it wont start again any ideas????? any one know where i can find some help on this
  • heilmanmdheilmanmd Member Posts: 1
    have the engine coolant tempature sensor checked. This can be done if you have the manual and know how to measure voltage, etc... but otherwise best to have a mech put it up on the computer.
    the other issue is that with TBI it could be the TBI itself or the idle position sensor.
    In any case, a shop with diagnostic computer can do the checks.

    Best
    Mark Heilman
    94 Suburban Columbus MT 59019
  • tanner520tanner520 Member Posts: 4
    I have the control unit with the rear defroster included, just an FYI. I noticed if I use the AC and start out with the temperature knob on the coldest setting and then turn the temperature knob to "warmer" after the cab has cooled down, I cannot get the air temperature to blow any cooler after that by turning the knob back to a cooler setting. I can turn the temperature knob all the way to the coldest setting but the air doesn't get colder, the air just stays the same temperature. If I turn the temperature knob to any warmer setting, the air temperature will get warmer but it will never get any cooler after that and you're "stuck" with that setting, unless you turn the knob to an even hotter setting (which really sucks in summer in Texas). Even after you turn the Suburban off, it's still at that same temperature when you start it back up later, even after you wait a long time. I found that if you turn the temperature knob all the way to the hottest setting and back to the coldest, then turn the Suburban off for a few minutes, this seems to reset everything and then I can get cold air again.

    Does this sound like a bad control unit? I've heard that the early ones had "squirrelly" problems but I'm not sure that this is one of them. Thanks. Lewis
  • ttjcctttjcct Member Posts: 1
    We have a 95 k2500 with the same problem. My husband has replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump switch, he doesn't know it yet (til tonight) but our suburban still won't start everytime. He was told to check the oil sending unit, which he has not. Today I did get it to start but I had no power windows, no a/c, radio or clock but I could lock and unlock the doors. The strange thing is the ABS brake light stayed on during this 15 minute trip home. Our whole brake system, rotors, etc. were all just redone this spring. When I got home and started it again it was fine, power a/c and all. Then after trying it again, it would not always start up and the idiot engine light came on. (It's 115 degrees in AZ and the windows were only cracked, it was really hot inside!) If you get any helpful info. let us know... and we'll do the same. I going to bug him again to just bring it to the dealer. I hope someone has some helpful info.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Well, sounds like you don't want to take it to a repair shop. I don't blame after what kind of service I have gotten from my Chevy dealer shop...

    If you have a fuel pump / flow problem an easy thing to do is to measure fuel line pressure by the engine. For this you need to buy a fuel pressure gauge (one that has the purge valve with drain hose attached) and measure the fuel pressure as you crank the engine. If pressure does not come up then you are not getting fuel from the pump. You said you replaced the pump already so I wouldn't think this is the issue.

    The second thing the engine needs to run is a spark. It is not possible to see the spark when you crank the engine other than you need to get an extra spark plug (or spark tester) and hook it up with a spark plug wire. If you have spark in one of the cylinders you then probably have it in all of them. Of course you could have a 'cold' cylinder but as I understand it doesn't even try to start you might not have spark at all. If spark is missing check the coil and distributor (I assume '93 model still has these).

    If you have spark then you need to check that your injectors work. With fuel pressure and spark present the thing left to check is that the fuel can enter inside the cylinder for the spark to ignite. I don't know how to check for injector voltage. For that you might need to take it to a dealer. And if the injectors don't 'fire' you could need a new computer in your vehicle.

    All of your trouble could also be cause by a simple grounding problem. Make sure your engine and chassis grounds are good.

    Arrie
  • jsoaresjsoares Member Posts: 1
    Bought my Suburban 05 off the lot with powered camper mirrors. I went back to see if I can get the power folding/curb side assist installed. I was told by the dealer that it needs to come from the factory like that and that it cannot be done by service. I would figure it would be two bolts and a direct connect. Are the electronics really that different or the dealership that lazy?
    :confuse:
  • boydog40boydog40 Member Posts: 1
    my wifes 99 surb - we recently started getting a strong fuel odor in the cab while travelling down the road with windows up or down doesnt matter - have found no leaks anywhere when parked and idling - any ideas? driving us crazy and scaring us also.
    thanks
  • arnold8169arnold8169 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 95 suburban 2500 4x4 with a 350cc engine. We took it on a 1700 mile trip with no problems. (currently at 120k) It's ran steady at 210 degrees (12 oclock on the gauge) and recently have been overheating. I drove home the other day and the temp shot up to 250 degrees in a matter of 5-10 seconds. The coolant is checked regularly and was bone dry in the reserve. I added more after the engine cooled and only made it another 5 miles with the temp shooting up again from 210 to 250 very quickly. I plan on changing the thermostat today but am wondering how many others have experienced this problem? The truck overheated in 01 causing an engine rebuild, new h20 pump, and radiator replacement so all of these parts have less than 20k on them. Any comments or advice will be greatly appreciated!

    Jeff Janes
    Arnold8169@charter.net
  • warlock49766warlock49766 Member Posts: 3
    It sounds to me like maybe a cracked head or headgasket problem. If there isn't any external signs of leakage of antifreeze then it is probably being injested through your engines cylinder(s). Have a shop perform a test for this,... they have a gauge that tests for exhaust fumes in coolant at the radiator. You could also disconnect your coil wire (so the engine won't start and run) and crank the engine over a few times then pull all your spark plugs to which ones are "WET"

    Those individual wet spark plugs would indicate which cylinders are drawing in coolant and causing you all of the headaches.
  • goodspeed2goodspeed2 Member Posts: 2
    Help? Sometime, after driving about 30 minutes to an hour on my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT, the engine shut off. I have to park on the side road and wait for a few minutes (10-15 minutes) to get the engine started again, it will go for a few miles then it will repeat or died again.

    Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages…
  • chevychickchevychick Member Posts: 1
    My chevy is having fuel problems it seemed at first like it wasn't getting any fuel to the carb so we changed the filter and it didn't help it would die and then not start again (The pump was put in about a year ago) We would spray some carb cleaner and then it would start for awhile finally it just gave out wouldn't even start if carb was cleaned out, so we took it to a shop and they put it on a system cleaner it ran better for two days and now it won't start again, it cost me about $200 already so does anyone know anything about the trouble these have with the fuel system or have any suggestions for me?
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    My recall notice on my 2000 Suburban mentioned periodic stalling as a potential problem. Have you received a letter from GM regarding the pending recall on the fuel pump wiring harness? I believe it covers many units built in the '00 - '02 model years and the problem is with the fuel pump wiring harness overheating (IIRC).

    I've been hoping GM will get the fix out soon, my fuel pump is very loud and I'd like to wait for the fix to replace my fuel pump.

    Goodluck
  • schsch Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 2005 LS, and information on this vehicle will be appreciate.

    TIA,
    B
  • tanner520tanner520 Member Posts: 4
    FYI for everyone that might be interested. I went ahead and bought a new control unit and that fixed the problems. Air control works like it's supposed to now. The date on my old control unit was 2000 and the date on my new one is 2004.
  • sollsoll Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a boat (woo hoo) and when my current car lease is up in Spring 2006, I need to buy a tow vehicle. My wife and I own a Honda minivan, which has been great, but no minivan will tow enough weight. My boat and trailer weigh about 7500lbs. Our next boat (this one is 10 years old and we'll buy a longer - about 27-28' boat within a year or two).

    I'm fairly certain that the next boat and trailer will exceed 10,000 lbs. so I'm considering the 3/4 ton Suburban or Yukon XL. When equipped with the biggest engine they sell (I think it's an 8.1 liter), and whatever other equipment necessary, it can tow up to 12,000 lbs.

    Here are my questions:

    1. Has anyone driven a newer (2003 or newer) 1500 and compared it to a 2500? I'm sure that the 2500 is not as smooth, but can it be used as a dialy commuting vehicle?

    The problem I'm having is that my wife has always wanted a convertable, and we're going to get her one and sell the minivan. If I want to tow my boat to the ocean (I live in Georgia), I have to get a tow vehicle which by its nature isn't the best for a daily commuter (bad gas mileage, comfort, etc.).

    2. Is there any other SUV that will tow that much, be a comfortable family highway cruiser (for times that I don't take my boat) and be able to have all of the creature comforts (DVD player, etc), and gets the same or better mileage??

    I looked at the Armada/Infinity, which seems like a good alternative (despite all of the problems people say it has, I would at least look into it), but it only tows 9100lbs. I know that's a lot, but if I want a bigger boat, I need more than a 9100lb towing capacity.

    3. I thought about getting an older 2500 and a third car, but I have no room in my driveway and can't park in front of my house. Does anyone know whether any company out there rents tow vehicles for boats? I called around and everyone seems to say that you can rent a vehicle to tow your car using their (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.) equipment, but nobody that rents a truck or sub to tow a boat with your trailer.

    Based on my research, other than a heavy duty pick-up truck (we need more people room than any such truck would have) or Excursion or big van, there's nothing else to consider. An Excursion won't fit in my garage, and I really don't like the way it looks.

    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • goodspeed2goodspeed2 Member Posts: 2
    Help? Sometime, after driving about 30 minutes to an hour on my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT, the engine shut off/stall. I have to park on the side road and wait for a few minutes (10-15 minutes) to get the engine started again, it will go for a few miles then it will repeat or died again.

    Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages…
  • tanner520tanner520 Member Posts: 4
    This could either be a fuel filter that needs replacing or the fuel pump is starting to fail.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    With the weight your wanting to tow, a 3/4 SUV is really the only choice. That leaves you with a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL or an Excursion.

    I have a 1/2 ton '00 Suburban that I use to tow our 4600lb boat. I wouldn't want to tow much more than this with the 5.3L. It just doesn't have enough torque for pulling up grades. I recently briefly towed a friends 7000lb cruiser with his 3/4 ton Silverado w/ 8.1 allison trans. Wow, what a difference. That combo pulls 7000lbs much better than my Suburban towing 4600lbs.

    An Armada will pull your current setup w/o a problem. I did test drive one, and that is by far the best powertrain setup currently available in a 1/2 ton SUV. Great transmission and Nissan's 5.6 v8 just cranks out torque. I was shocked by how fast that truck is. I got back in my Suburban and it felt very slow.

    The problem with the 3/4 ton SUV/truck is fuel economy, they're a lot heavier and with a 6.0 or 8.1 they get pretty dismal fuel economy. The only way around that is to go diesel which leaves you with a 3/4 truck or an Excursion.

    Everything is a compromise and their isn't a perfect vehicle that will do everything. I'd guess a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL is your best bet. It won't ride as nice, but you'll have more towing power, bigger brakes and a stronger transmission. I've already rebuilt the l460e in my 1/2 ton burb at 46k miles.

    I've not sampled a 3/4 ton Suburban, but I've read on other message boards, that everyone likes them for everyday driving and towing. The real issue is fuel economy, because with an 8.1 (which is what you need) it will drink gas.

    Congrats on the new boat and good luck regarding the tow vehicle.

    I don't know of any rental companies that will let you rent an SUV to tow.
  • tanner520tanner520 Member Posts: 4
    Well, I guess I spoke too soon. The control unit did not correct the problem. However, it did help me add another symptom to the problem but the problem still exists. What I've discovered is that the problem only rears its ugly head after the vehicle has warmed up. I don't have this problem when I first start the Suburban up.

    Any direction or contacts/information would be appreciated.

    Lewis
  • wclark3wclark3 Member Posts: 3
    I HAVE A 2004 SUBURBAN AWD THAT IS MAKING A ROARING NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONT END THE DEALER HAS NO IDEA WHAT IT IS HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM
  • jawgadawgjawgadawg Member Posts: 1
    I am having some trouble that I can not figure out, I have replaced the starter because I was having trouble getting the burb started and it was making a "grinding" sound but the starter is doing the same thing. I checked the fly wheel and all of the teeth are good so I replaced the starter again (warranty) and I get the same thing. Sometimes it won't even engage without major grinding! I have replaced the cables, good battery, any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • goob2goob2 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact same problem with a 2003 GMC Yukon XL. Fuel pump failed at 24k miiles and was replaced about a year ago under warranty. This problem started about 2 months ago (just as the weather warmed up). Had a real problem with this last week on vacation. Two GMC dealerships have not been able to recreate or diagnose the problem.
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    My guess is that you didn't notice this noise until this year's exceptionally hot weather. My '04 does that, too -- so did my '80, '93 and '99. This is simply the automatic transmission changing pitch of the blades to pass hot fluid through more quickly. You probably don't hear this until the engine is heated up. To be sure there's no problem, check your fluid level and smells bad or looks very dirty. But, every 1500 Suburban I've encountered with an automatic transmission and a .373 rear end will do this in hot weather.
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    I have owned '80, '93, '99 &'04 gas 1500 Suburbans. The '03 was 2wd and very stable. At one point I had a truck wheel & axle shop do a check for me and they changed the toe-in. With a little tightening of the steering itself, it rode like it was on RR tracks.

    The '99 4wd felt very soft in the rear end and performed as you stated above. Living in the Poconos Mountains at the time, I felt this was unacceptable behavior. My neighbor taught auto mechanics at the area community college and he took it in to their shop and adjusted the torsion bars slightly unevenly to compensate for the usual crown of two-lane roads. This helped -- so did new Good Year tires with a highway tread. There was still slewing on slippery surfaces and unpredictable behavior in slipstreams from large trucks. I added one full leaf to each rear spring bundle at a truck suspension shop and all problems were solved. Plus, when I towed anything, it behaved much better and got better gas mileage.

    My '04 is now exhibiting some instability when my heavy trailer isn't attached. I had installed airbags integral to the newer coil suspension and that made a huge difference, even when not towing. I am convinced that the torsion bars must be adjusted to copmpensate for road crown and that Firestone/Bridgestone tires perform OK for the first 30,000 miles. At 46,000 mine are cupping and requiring inflation to the sidewall limit. You can bet I'll put something else on there this winter. But that reminds me -- NEVER OPERATE YOUR SUBURBAN AT THE TIRE PRESSURE RECOMMENDED ON THE DOOR JAMB!! This will give a nice ride, but terrible handling! If you carry more than 300 lbs (two small adults) in the wagon, you must inflate your tires closer to maximum branded on the sidewall! If you carry maximum load, you must inflate to maximum pressure for better handling, durability, gas mileage and safety. If you tow, try 2lbs less air in the front tires than the rear. I carry a small 12VDC air compressor under the small 2nd row fold-down seat. I also had a compressor with a dash mounted gauge and switch installed to regulate rear suspension pressure from inside the vehicle. And don't forget -- temperature dramatically affects tire pressure! Read this section in your manual. My wife has a nasty habit of taking both hands off the wheel to do something while she's driving (if she feels the unit is stable) and it tracks straight for up to half a mile with no correction, even towing. Check those tires and try air bags or firmer rear shocks. Both are cheap add-ons for benefit gained. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    The "Driver's Information Center" display in my '04 Suburban is woefully dim in normal daylight. In sunlight it disappears. I need this stuff to find locations by mileage and to see if I can make it to the next town to get gas, food or lodging. Does anyone else have this problem, and if so, what have you done about it?
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    Check your tire pressure! Never go with the door spec. that's about 35 psi, and you probably want to run at 40. The sidewalls of the tires say 44psi, I believe. So 40 gives the tires a fighting chance and allows you a broad temperature range before you have to mess with tire pressure again. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    I experienced this in my '99 with cargo doors. A bad rear-end collision fixed it ... But, before that happened, I checked everything with a tape measure and foiund the bumper liner was off. The vehicle frame and mounting points were fine, but the chrome bumber liner was not bolted evenly and the black plastic guards were not clipped into prober alignment. This gave an overall effect of the doors being lopsided. I don't know why the same wouldn't be true of a lift gate. My '04 Suburban came from Janesville, WI and not Mexico. Far fewer squeaks and misalignments, in my opinion. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    This is a real late response in a hot summer like this one, but that's a dealer or Delco fix. There is a limit switch that can interfere, and in some cases low refrigerant will cause some malfunction. Mine went out on the Washington DC Beltway on a June day with the temp in the rearview showing 101 on the road. Low coolant in my case. Try cold "defrost" in an emergency. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    My '04 does the same thing, especially when towing. I alleviated the situation somewhat with a K&N free-flow air cleaner filter to reduce intake manifold pressure and went to premium gas. My bob-tail mileage jumped to 20+ mpg on 55mph roads, and over 17 on Interstates. My towing mileage with a 6,000 lb utility trailer went to 13.8 from 10.2. The airbags I added to the suspension helps too by keeping everything lined up height-wise. The radical "spool-up" does not happen if the cruise is disengaged, or if you can find the override threshold with the accelerator pedal. I try to anticipate the oncoming hill and decide whether to cut the cruise off or see if we can sneak in under the sensor. However, the actual answer is one you won't like to hear. If you drive slower, it doesn't do it. And, if you're towing, there's less overall shifting with the trailering mode engaged. But, if you hear of anything else PLEASE let me know. Thanks. S.
  • ucfknightucfknight Member Posts: 2
    Every morning when I first start the Suburban, there is a belt sqealing noise that lasts for a few minutes. It won't come back again until the next morning. I recently had the belt tensioner and belt replaced but the noise came back a few days later. It's driving me nuts since it never happens by the time I get it to the shop. Any suggestions?
  • arnold8169arnold8169 Member Posts: 2
    Okay, I am really stumped to what might be the problem here.....

    My 95, 2500, 350cc, 4x4 suburban has a problem with overheating. It seems to rise all the way to the danger zone 260 degrees after I drive it for a few miles then drops below 200. It swings back and forth on the guage for a minute or two and then settles down at around 208 degrees and is fine after than. The radiator, h2o pump, themostat, and hoses are less than one year old. We just put in a 195 thermostat last weekend when the problem started. The oil looks good and I'm stumped as to why it's taking so long for the thermostat to open up? Could the guage just be wrong? It's a 195 thermostat but the guage reads a consistant 210. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Jeff
  • bnsfcondrbnsfcondr Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 that shuts off while going up hill and increasing engine power. It almost seems that is doesn't have the power to climb it. The SES light came on, and it shows the knocking sensor is tripping the light. I am sure that could be caused by a number of things. The vehicle is bi-fuel, and I am running 87 octane in the tank. I don't know why it is doing this, and would like some suggestions if anyone has any.

    As info, my truck has 87000 miles on it, and i did replace the fuel filter.
  • nklemensnklemens Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem. I removed the compressor and the compressor had NO oil it in. I bought a used compressor, added the right amount of PAG 46 oil, installed it, had it recharged and the problem is completely gone. My compressor appreared to have a little black grease on the bottom rear indicating a possible leak in the casing, losing oil.

    I know have 43 degree air blowing cold!

    Don't wait to have it fixed or do not run the AC until fixed. If the compressor fails there is a about $1000 worth of work to do to purge the AC system of any metal particles caused by a compressor failure.
  • reddog65reddog65 Member Posts: 1
    recently, whenever the fuel gauge gets to half, it immediately drops to empty and the message center lights up.. the only way to make it register is to completely fill it back up again. what the heck?
  • bbsgbbsg Member Posts: 1
    Hi i'am haveing the same thing happen on my 01 suburban.It will stall at any speed and the first thimg i notice is the batt light comes on.I pull over and it cranks but will not start.After a few min it starts right up runs great.I have had it put on a scanner no faults stored.fuel press is also good 55 psi.very intermittent can go many miles before it acts up again.Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • bnsfcondrbnsfcondr Member Posts: 5
    I am taking my 02 Z71 in tomorrow to have it looked at for shutting down at any speed. I have talked with several mechanics who tell me it could be anything from the fuel pump to a knock sensor. Once I hear from them tomorrow I will post the results so you can atleast see what is causing mine.
  • shawndshawnd Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if the 1986 Suburban, or any suburban for that matter came with dual tanks?
    I need a 2nd tank for mine. I have the 43gallon tank in the back. Need a side mount tank, looks like there is plenty of room. I've been looking at junk yards, I see no Suburbans with side-mount tanks.
    Is there a good aftermarket side mount tank that anyone knows of?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Shawn
  • wclark3wclark3 Member Posts: 3
    IT MAKES THIS NOISE WHEN THE MOTOR IS COLD OR HOT MORE SO WHEN YOU LET OFF THE GAS PEDAL ANY SUGESTION WOULD BE HELPFULL THANKS WILLIAM
  • z50kiddz50kidd Member Posts: 1
    I was rinsing dead bugs from the front of my 1999
    the other day ,I noticed the head light on drivers side started flickering.I dont know if it was doing this before or not.Now both head lights will go out and come back on.Has anybody else had this problem.Any ideas on the problem.
    I had one person tell me the light switch was bad,and one person told me the light switch would not affect it like this.The day time running lights go off and on as well.I am baffled.Please help..........Jeff Jones
  • steves97burbsteves97burb Member Posts: 1
    Hello. Truck was running fine until this am ( 97, 5.7 Vortech). Tried to start and got nothing. Not a peep. Checked the fuses on the fuse block and found that the 40 amp ign A fuse was blown. Tried a new one and it keeps blowing them. Any ideas?

    Thanks
  • bnsfcondrbnsfcondr Member Posts: 5
    I just got my 02 suburban back from the shop and it was doing the same thing. I had good fuel pressure, but the fuel pump was shutting down. Most of the time it would do it when i went to pass someone. It turns out that the fuel pump was bad. I had it replaced yesterday and so far no troubles.
  • phildephilde Member Posts: 2
    i am looking at a 99 gmc 2500 s-burb... i know nothing about them really . have a car service , to the airports so i will use ut for that and to tote around bike , kayak, outdoor stuff, home depo etc.. etc... anyway what should i look at- for ... any advice... its a good price , but has high, 150 g, miles... what do you all think.? thanks phil de
  • smnstnsmnstn Member Posts: 10
    Another thought I had is that the fan clutch is engaging in hot weather even when the engine is cold. But I'd have a transmission mechanic check the noise for sure.
    S.
  • rob_lopezrob_lopez Member Posts: 4
    We have a '99 Suburban that is pulling to the right when the steering wheel goes from the 12 o'clock position to the 1 to 2 o'clock position. What happens is that the vehicle feels as if it wants to pull to the right so you need to comensate the steering wheel so that the vehicle will not pull to the right. Once you are past the 2 o'clock position it is fine.

    This does not happen going to the left. We have had the alignment checked, the steering box and a pitman arm replaced and it still has this problem. Any suggestions on what this could be and what might be done next? The mechanic said that everything is tight on the front end.

    Thanks for the help.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Forgive me if I'm not seeing the big picture, but...isn't a vehicle supposed to pull towards the right when you turn the steering wheel from 12 to 1 or 2 (essentially, the steering wheel is rotating in a clockwise motion)? Or are you saying that you can see the steering wheel turn to 2 o'clock by itself, with a subsequent veering of your vehicle towards the right?

    Did you check your tires/wheels to see if either/both are true? Nothing wrong with the rear axle/tires/wheels?
  • wccwcc Member Posts: 1
    My 88 Suburban did this and it was the radiator cap. Check for cracks in the rubber gasket.
  • wclark3wclark3 Member Posts: 3
    WENT TO THE DEALER TODAY TO HAVE MY SUBURBAN WORKED ON TODAY THEY FOUND A BAD BEARING IN THE FRONT DRIVE DIFFERENTIAL IT DID NOT MESS UP ANYTHING ELSE . DO YOU THINK THE LOCK NUT COULD HAVE BACKED OFF A LITTLE
  • flacaprodflacaprod Member Posts: 1
    greetings all,
    went to fold in my mirrors today and the passenger one just 'went floppy'
    no tension.
    i can't figure out how to remove the glass to get in there to fix the cap on the spring or to see what is wrong....

    any help appreciated!
    thanks,
    brian
  • notsohappy2notsohappy2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys,

    I am a Canadian owner of a 2001 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 LT and we have a serious problem with the vehicle. It stalls while driving on the road and by doing that it can cause a very serious danger on the road. I found on the internet that there is an recall for the 2001 Chev. Suburbans but the recall is only for US owners of the Suburban (316508 vehicles). The same for the Tahoe, Yukon, Silverado etc. I can't imagine that only US owners have that problem since all the vehicles are built in the same plant and should have the same potential problem.
    I also can't imagine that Canadian lives are less valuable as US lives in the eyes of GM, although it seems like it.
    Are there any Canadian owners of a 2001 Suburban or any other GM vehicle that have the same problem among you ? Maybe we can join forces and do something about this injustice. :mad:
  • xtianknightsxtianknights Member Posts: 25
    I just bought my (new to me) 1998 Chevy Suburban/1500/5.7v and the positive side of the battery post is loose. I have tightened it and previous (original) owner said he had problem too with it coming loose. Any fix? It is a new battery. I did order a new brass fitting for it (hasn't come yet) someone said it is better. Any help :confuse:
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