Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Suburban

1679111220

Comments

  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    Anything over $13,500 off is a good deal. The 2k mileage is good also for
    a demo.
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    Make sure your autolamp optical sensor is clean, and not covered with
    any objects. After that, I would check to make sure sensor is ok, then
    check wiring connections.
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    I would suspect a pulley bearing, such as the belt tensioner.
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    Bad switch, or bad wiper pulse board.
  • lostinkc02lostinkc02 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Sub, the only time the heater puts out hot air is when the temperature control is turned all the way to the right past the 82/full heat click. When the nob is turned back to a lower temperature the hot air stops. The heater is working, it puts out plenty of hot air on the one setting. Any ideas?
  • mekennimekenni Member Posts: 4
    Yes. The virbration/droning goes away once I accelerate and under normal driving conditions. It's when I'm sitting at a light, in the driveway or just idling.
  • mom2005mom2005 Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 suburban does the exact same thing. I have taken it to the dealership 3 times now. They say they can't find what wrong with it and it will never make the sound when they are driving it. Turn off the air conditioner and see if it stops. That usually works. Also beware, today my Suburban broke down in the middle of the road and they think the fuel pump went out. It just stalled in the middle of the road. They said sometimes when the gas gets low the fuel pump heats up and just breaks. So two of my children and myself had to get towed and ride with the wrecker to the dealership. (my fourth time there for repairs in a year).
  • dranedaddranedad Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Suburban with exactly the same problem. I have a new fuel pump, new fuel filter & new battery. My mechanic can replicate the problem but cannot find the cause. He has had my Suburban for 2 weeks and gave up. He recommended I bring it into the dealer. I live in New Orleans so no telling how long that will take under the current conditions. Have you found a fix for yours yet? Any advice?
  • matto1matto1 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2004 GMC yukon. The service manager initially thought it was the alingnment. He called back saying the camber/casters were out of ajustment. I asked if they would be replacing the tires. He said "NO" We don't have balding, just wear to the inside and this would not be covered especially with 23,000 miles on them. I asked how would these be out of alingment and he hoped it was just from the factory. I hope I will not be dealing with this again. Also no alingment or balancing/rotating of tires. Manager said it is not covered. Got to love it.
    Hope this gives you some info.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Just one thing perhaps worth to check.

    I have a '04 Tahoe and had a lot of trouble with bad gas mileage and while trouble shooting the issue I found one very strange thing. The MAP sensor connection was bad and if I just touched the wire harness while engine was idling the engine shut off. Now that is understandable for bad connection but what is not is that it did NOT set a code in the computer.

    To rule out the MAP sensor I think you can drive your vehicle without it. If you just disconnect the wire harness from the sensor I think you can operate the vehicle almost as normal. You would have slightly worse gas mileage as the computer goes to operate in a pre-programmed mode due to missing MAP sensor. If your vehicle would not shut off with MAP disconnected you might have found your problem.

    Pulling the wire harness will set the code in computer but if you have a bad connection with the signal wire alone there will be no code. That was the problem in mine. Signal wire is the middle one in my Tahoe, which I believe is the case in your vehicle too.

    The contacts in the harness were really loose and I replaced them myself. The dealer gave me the new contacts but would not do the job.

    This problem can be very difficult to find as there is no code left in computer.

    You say your mechanic can replicate the problem. How does he do that?

    --Arrie--
  • nrsmdnrsmd Member Posts: 4
    Suburban 1999 1500 LT

    Engine turns and catches, but cuts off immediately (within seconds).

    Any ideas or things to check?

    I can check OCD codes but is that going to be helpful?

    Nathan
  • wildwilly1wildwilly1 Member Posts: 2
    I absolutely hate ABS brakes, on my 1997 GMC Suburban, especially in the winter months. They are like having no pedal at all. A skid is much easier to handle that almost driving through what ever it is that you are going to hit. Recently, the ABS has been going off just before a complete hault, also in reverse. They just started growling ar me going around tight corners also.
    Will the problem show up on cumputer diagnostics?
    I would rather disable the ABS, does anyone know how? At least it would be safer in the snow.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I'm not sure if I understood your message correctly but ABS going OFF just before complete stop in my understanding is what the system is designed to do. Otherwise you could not make a complete stop at all.

    Hoe are your tires? Are they good enough for any grip on snow. I understand your "like no pedal at all" feeling comes when you are driving on snow or ice.

    If your brakes stop the vehicle on dry pavement ok and then you have an issue on snow it sounds like you just don't have enough grip on snowy road to feel any braking forces. Remember ABS is designed to keep wheels from lock-up and the maximum braking force you can feel is determined by the grip of the tires on the road.

    Of course you could have a problem in the ABS system and I'm not sure if it sets a code either.

    Disabling the system does not sound good idea at all. What about having it serviced and fixed if found defective. Your large vehicle would handle better at heavy braking incidences.

    Arrie
  • wildwilly1wildwilly1 Member Posts: 2
    This problem is happening on dry pavement. I apply force to the pedal when I am going into a corner I can hear the ABS motor groaning, and at the same time I start to loose pedal. The pedal gets pretty spongy, at the same time the front brakes let up like they are disengaging. This also happen near the completion of a stop, at about 4 MPH or less the same occurence takes place. The reservoir is full of fluid. I hooked the computer up this morning, but out machine does not go so far as ABS systems in diagnostics.

    We will begin to get snow and ice in December. I have been brought up in the towing business, so I can drive in anything. My statement about Hating ABS in the winter is true. When there is snow and ice I can no longer sense the amount of grip my tires are producing on the surface. I can't stop the damn thing the way I am use to. It is tragic that things have come to this, when experienced drivers no longer have total control of their wheels.

    My son had ABS problems with his Cavalier, all we did was unplug the wires at the ABS and he had great brakes that were totally controlable.

    I am totally comfortable with my driving ability and I would love to be able to disable the ABS but this system may not allow it. Do you know the way?

    By the way, thank you for response to my problem, I greatly appreciate your time and effort.
  • dranedaddranedad Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your response. My mechanic replicated the problem by letting it sit idling for about 2 hours then driving it. Once it started to act up, it did so constantly until they shut it down. A computer check said all eight cylinders were misfiring but did not show cause. It doesn't seem to show up driving short distances. When I drive for over an hour or for about 30 minutes in bumper to bumper traffic, it starts to show up. I dropped it off at the dealership over the weekend but they wont be able to look at it until Tues or Wed. Things are way backed up in New Orleans. When my mechanic put in a new battery, it ran fine for about 2 weeks before the next incident. Apparently draining batteries, engine shutdowns, and weird electrical events are common in suburbans but I have not heard a definitive cause yet. I added nothing to the suburban since it was purchased. The only thing I use is a GPS which I unplug every time I stop the vehicle. :confuse:
  • f15_70116f15_70116 Member Posts: 1
    hey everyone (i know this is kinda off topic)
    My dad and I just bought a lot of sound equipment for out boat but since this is the off season we wanted to keep it in our suburban. we dont want to replace the factory head to have pre-amp signals since it ties into the dvd and steering wheel controls. we are going to run the signals into the powered signal option on our amp and get the signal from the small stock sub. the problem: we dont know which wire sends the sub signal without pulling out the whole console on the sub. If anyone knows the pinout diagram or know a website i would greatly appreciate the help. its so hard to find the little information you need.
    thanks justin
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    That's because GM used half assed ABS systems in many vehicles during the 90s. Many were a single or two channel setup. Meaning if one wheel started to lock up, all 4 wheels would be effected when trying to get the wheel that's locking to gain traction. I hope by now, they are using a 4 channel system, where each brake can be controlled independently. With the 3 and 4 channel setups, you'll rarely get the ABS activating while breaking into a corner and in the snow they work much better.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Based on your comments it seems like your problem is heavily temperature related, i.e. when the mechanic lets it idle for 2 hours to heat up or when you drive it long enough.

    Then you get misfire in all cylinders, which talks about a serious timing problem.

    Have your mechanic to change the crank shaft position sensor. It is a $63 + tax part. I changed mine in my Tahoe and it seemed to be of some help for my issues at the time. This sensor is mounted in the side of the engine and will get hot when engine oil heats up since the oil is slung on the sensor by the wheel it reads.

    This sensor really changes temperature big time and can start act up when hot.

    Sensor is located behind starter motor so it takes a little bit work to get to it as the starter must be removed first. Your mechanic should have no problem to get there though.

    After sensor change you might get a check engine light and a code indicating misfire. If this happens you need to have the sensor re-learned by the computer in your truck, which procedure is available only at the dealer service ($75 or so) I believe.

    The other sensors that have to do with engine timing are MAP sensor, cam shaft position sensor and knok sensors. MAP sensor should not be temperature sensitive that bad but the cam shaft position sensor probably is just like crank shaft position sensor is. In my truck this sensor is a little bit harder to get to as it is located on top back part of the engine. Knock sensors are located between intake manifold and engine top so to get to these the manifold has to be removed. Your engine probably has them in same locations.

    I would start with the crank shaft position sensor for eliminating your problem.

    Arrie
  • suburban_momsuburban_mom Member Posts: 1
    The title says it all, does anyone have any suggestions? Can a battery suddenly die with no warning? We were loading up the kids last night to go trick or treating and the lights were on in the vehicle, when I turned the ignition switch, the whole car went dead. I went out there this morning, and the remote for the door locks won't even work!
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Yes,

    Battery can short out and die just like that.

    Check your battery terminals though. As it happened when you tried to start it it could have burned a cable or otherwise have a bad connection.

    Arrie
  • redneckchevyredneckchevy Member Posts: 1
    Ok,
    When you start it up it starts just fine but it dies it won't idle unless you keep on pushing the gas and if you take it out of park it dies we have replaced the
    Oxygen sensor, electronic control mogul, plugs, wires, distributor, roder button, map sensor, fuel filter, god knows what else can you help me.
    melissa
  • jbgamjbgam Member Posts: 1
    I am seeing double. I have an auto dimming drivers side view mirror that seems to be out of whack. especially at night. Is there anyway to realign the mirror or should I just replace it. And how do I do either?
  • victorlvictorl Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. Check for loose battery connections. The suburban goes in a shutdown mode, and should start again in about 30 minutes.
  • splatsterhoundsplatsterhound Member Posts: 149
    Same thing happened to me with my 2002 (65,000 miles). Only thing that has ever gone wrong with the truck. Put a new battery in and everything was fine. Good luck.
  • nellieblynelliebly Member Posts: 4
    We have a 2001 Suburban 2500 6.0 liter. 4 times in the last week, I've tried starting the truck and nothing happens. I have all power, windows, lights, radio works. Not even a click from the engine, ignition or starter when I turn the key. I've checked that the truck is in park and jiggled the shifter. It only seems to be happening after the truck has run and I'll shut it off for a bit and try to start it again. But it doesn't happen everytime.

    Took it to the dealer, the computer shows nothing, no wires anywhere are lose, battery terminals all clean. I have a marine battery in the truck, and it's got plenty of juice. Any ideas? I have 78,000+ on the truck and not sure why or what's causing this. But it's frustrating that we can't find the problem.
  • kprice6kprice6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '02 suburban LT 63000 miles and have just started have mutliple electrical problems, from the tranny, check engine light and now the gauges are going crazy. My radio has been acting up for a while too. Could the CD player malfunction effect the overall computer?
  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    What is the year of your suburban? I just stopped by the dealership today and got some pin out information for mine. I have a 2000. Let me know.
  • holler67holler67 Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like a sticking starter solenoid to me.

    :)
  • 94suburbanatl94suburbanatl Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 94 Suburban with the 350 engine and would like to increase the horsepower without braking the bank. Can someone summarize the best modifications for the $$ ?

    I was thinking of cold air intake, power pulleys, headers, chip. Did I miss anything? Which ones are most reccomended?

    Thanks,
    Hunt Hodgetts, Atlanta, Ga
  • atlmomatlmom Member Posts: 2
    I've got a question about a different stalling problem with my '01 Suburban. Runs great at any constant rate of speed, but idle and battery gauge go up and down when stopped, sometimes to the point of stalling, other times idle settles and is notmal. Particularly bad in parking lots, with a lot of starting and stopping. I've been told it could be a dirty throttle? Any help would be really appreciated.
  • radiodave1radiodave1 Member Posts: 1
    I live where we get ALOT of rain this time of the year. When the Suburban is parked out in the rain for a couple days, rain finds it's way into the blower fan. When I turn on heat and turn the fan on, water comes out and runs down the carpet by the passengers feet. Can anyone point me to a fix on this? The truck has to sit outside, so this is annoying to say the least.

    Thanks for the help!

    Dave
  • markanagmarkanag Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem with my '01. I received a recall notice about a fuel electrical problem but have yet had time to take it to the dealer to have the repair done. Have you received your recall and have you had it done yet?
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    The air intake 'vents' outside below the wind shield have water drain holes in the bottom of them. Over time these small drain holes can get plugged with all sorts of dirt. When they plug and it rains enough the water level will raise inside the drain pans and leak inside the vehicle.

    You will have to have them drain holes cleaned.

    Arrie
  • atlmomatlmom Member Posts: 2
    I did take it in for the recall. Unfortunately, still have the problem.
  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    I've got a 2000 that does the similar thing on dry pavement and know what you mean about it could impair my judgment. If I feel I can make the stop in 60 feet and brake accordingly, then ABS decides to take a little longer by pumping on dry pavement it could mess up my day, not to mention my front end and clean driving record or worse yet hurt someone. Although, Living in South Dakota, I've learned to like ABS in the winter months, if you really want to get rid of it, have you looked to see if there is a fuse for it? If so, make sure that it is the only item that is on that circuit. Good Luck!
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I just had the fuel relay recall performed on my 2000 Suburban. I was having issues with my fuel pump making lots of noise, so I went ahead and had the dealer replace the fuel pump while performing the recall. Saved me some $$ on labor. I don't really notice it running any better, but my fuel pump is now quiet.
  • lancevlancev Member Posts: 1
    The hinges, or checks so I'm told, seem to be broken on the second row doors. They make an awful sound when you open them. The checks are cheap. Anyone have any instructions on how to replace them? Thanks.
  • samdeensamdeen Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I just got a 91 burb 4x4 and the power windows are all jacked up. Does anyone have any advice on what kind of window motors to purchase to solve my problems? Thanks a lot.

    Sam
  • dranedaddranedad Member Posts: 3
    Arrie,
    Thanks for the response. The dealer has had my 02 suburban for 12 days now. As of today they are still "road testing" it to nail down the problem. I passed your suggestions on to the service supervisor who in turn is supposed to pass it on to the technician. We'll see... I will post if they find a solution. Thanks again.
  • ewiseewise Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I are looking for a Suburban. We've driven 8 in the past 2 weeks ranging from 2001 to 2005. Every one except the new 2005 had rust on the inside bottom door seams (rear hatch included). GM Marketing said that nothing has changed in these years, so I am not convinced that it can be totally prevented even on a new one. If I write a check for $30k, I expect no rust issues for at least 5 years. I appreciate feedback from those of you who already have Burbs.
  • engrjamengrjam Member Posts: 2
    While traveling down the interstate the truck stop running. the tach went to zero. Motor will not start, it cranks fine. got the p0339 obdII code and replaced crankshaft sensor. still will not start and this same code still present. other ideas
  • flyfisherman1flyfisherman1 Member Posts: 1
    I had that problem with my old 97 Suburban. It needed a new high speed sensor in the steering.
  • iworkonthemtoiworkonthemto Member Posts: 2
    eazy fix just replace the little harness that comes from the key switch to the body control module.had the same problem .
  • iworkonthemtoiworkonthemto Member Posts: 2
    check fuse box under hood .had this problem before the connector in the bottom of the fuse box were burned losing conection
  • gullyakgullyak Member Posts: 1
    A question for anyone who owns a large SUV. What size garage doors do you have and can you fit easily through an 8 ft wide door? Thanks
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    The door to my 3rd bay is only 8' and I have to fold one sideview mirror in for the Suburban to fit.
  • agray911agray911 Member Posts: 1
    We are having problems with our 2001 Suburban power windows also. Service Dept says they now make the stronger window motors on the new Suburbans. Anyone else having trouble with their power windows? We've already had passenger side replaced- to the tune of $350, and now the driver's side is acting up. Is this something we will have to replace every 4 years? I love my Suburban, but this sucks!
    Lisa
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Hmm...doesn't sound like something I've ever seen. Certainly hasn't been an issue on either the black '02 Avalanche we used to have or the white '04 Suburban, though the Suburban does have odd rust marks on the underside of the hood, which my father attributed to the "thin white paint".

    I don't think I've ever seen a Suburban from the past 10 years with any kind of rust issue, but it is interesting that it was something you saw on every single one.

    Anyone else want to chime in?
  • bnsfcondrbnsfcondr Member Posts: 5
    I have an '02 suburban in Kansas. Even with the road salt during the winter months, and all the snow and ice, I have yet to see rust on the door seams of any I looked at. We test drove atleast 6 before buying this one, and none of them had the rust on the door seams.
  • n8waqn8waq Member Posts: 1
    Hmmm, does this sound familiar. I started troubles hooting the exact same problem yesterday!! I kept finding the battery in my 2002 burb dead if not driven everyday, if left undriven more than 24 hours the battery failed to have enough to turn over the engine. I started with a Fluke meter and checking amp draw at battery which registered 1.76 amps. I began pulling each fuse and checking amp draw at the battery. The radio circuit was the problem. I found out that the radio as well as the instrument cluster and climate control are also on this circuit. I pulled the dash apart (rather easy to do actually) and disconnected the radio then the climate control and finally the instrument cluster and still have the draw. The dealership here is of no use they want the $60.00 and hour!! I am reading this thread and it appears there are yet more things tied to this circuit (onstar??). Can anyone confirm this or if there are additional items on this circuit?? Thanks for all the info this far.
    John
Sign In or Register to comment.