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Comments
a demo.
any objects. After that, I would check to make sure sensor is ok, then
check wiring connections.
Hope this gives you some info.
I have a '04 Tahoe and had a lot of trouble with bad gas mileage and while trouble shooting the issue I found one very strange thing. The MAP sensor connection was bad and if I just touched the wire harness while engine was idling the engine shut off. Now that is understandable for bad connection but what is not is that it did NOT set a code in the computer.
To rule out the MAP sensor I think you can drive your vehicle without it. If you just disconnect the wire harness from the sensor I think you can operate the vehicle almost as normal. You would have slightly worse gas mileage as the computer goes to operate in a pre-programmed mode due to missing MAP sensor. If your vehicle would not shut off with MAP disconnected you might have found your problem.
Pulling the wire harness will set the code in computer but if you have a bad connection with the signal wire alone there will be no code. That was the problem in mine. Signal wire is the middle one in my Tahoe, which I believe is the case in your vehicle too.
The contacts in the harness were really loose and I replaced them myself. The dealer gave me the new contacts but would not do the job.
This problem can be very difficult to find as there is no code left in computer.
You say your mechanic can replicate the problem. How does he do that?
--Arrie--
Engine turns and catches, but cuts off immediately (within seconds).
Any ideas or things to check?
I can check OCD codes but is that going to be helpful?
Nathan
Will the problem show up on cumputer diagnostics?
I would rather disable the ABS, does anyone know how? At least it would be safer in the snow.
Hoe are your tires? Are they good enough for any grip on snow. I understand your "like no pedal at all" feeling comes when you are driving on snow or ice.
If your brakes stop the vehicle on dry pavement ok and then you have an issue on snow it sounds like you just don't have enough grip on snowy road to feel any braking forces. Remember ABS is designed to keep wheels from lock-up and the maximum braking force you can feel is determined by the grip of the tires on the road.
Of course you could have a problem in the ABS system and I'm not sure if it sets a code either.
Disabling the system does not sound good idea at all. What about having it serviced and fixed if found defective. Your large vehicle would handle better at heavy braking incidences.
Arrie
We will begin to get snow and ice in December. I have been brought up in the towing business, so I can drive in anything. My statement about Hating ABS in the winter is true. When there is snow and ice I can no longer sense the amount of grip my tires are producing on the surface. I can't stop the damn thing the way I am use to. It is tragic that things have come to this, when experienced drivers no longer have total control of their wheels.
My son had ABS problems with his Cavalier, all we did was unplug the wires at the ABS and he had great brakes that were totally controlable.
I am totally comfortable with my driving ability and I would love to be able to disable the ABS but this system may not allow it. Do you know the way?
By the way, thank you for response to my problem, I greatly appreciate your time and effort.
My dad and I just bought a lot of sound equipment for out boat but since this is the off season we wanted to keep it in our suburban. we dont want to replace the factory head to have pre-amp signals since it ties into the dvd and steering wheel controls. we are going to run the signals into the powered signal option on our amp and get the signal from the small stock sub. the problem: we dont know which wire sends the sub signal without pulling out the whole console on the sub. If anyone knows the pinout diagram or know a website i would greatly appreciate the help. its so hard to find the little information you need.
thanks justin
Then you get misfire in all cylinders, which talks about a serious timing problem.
Have your mechanic to change the crank shaft position sensor. It is a $63 + tax part. I changed mine in my Tahoe and it seemed to be of some help for my issues at the time. This sensor is mounted in the side of the engine and will get hot when engine oil heats up since the oil is slung on the sensor by the wheel it reads.
This sensor really changes temperature big time and can start act up when hot.
Sensor is located behind starter motor so it takes a little bit work to get to it as the starter must be removed first. Your mechanic should have no problem to get there though.
After sensor change you might get a check engine light and a code indicating misfire. If this happens you need to have the sensor re-learned by the computer in your truck, which procedure is available only at the dealer service ($75 or so) I believe.
The other sensors that have to do with engine timing are MAP sensor, cam shaft position sensor and knok sensors. MAP sensor should not be temperature sensitive that bad but the cam shaft position sensor probably is just like crank shaft position sensor is. In my truck this sensor is a little bit harder to get to as it is located on top back part of the engine. Knock sensors are located between intake manifold and engine top so to get to these the manifold has to be removed. Your engine probably has them in same locations.
I would start with the crank shaft position sensor for eliminating your problem.
Arrie
Battery can short out and die just like that.
Check your battery terminals though. As it happened when you tried to start it it could have burned a cable or otherwise have a bad connection.
Arrie
When you start it up it starts just fine but it dies it won't idle unless you keep on pushing the gas and if you take it out of park it dies we have replaced the
Oxygen sensor, electronic control mogul, plugs, wires, distributor, roder button, map sensor, fuel filter, god knows what else can you help me.
melissa
Took it to the dealer, the computer shows nothing, no wires anywhere are lose, battery terminals all clean. I have a marine battery in the truck, and it's got plenty of juice. Any ideas? I have 78,000+ on the truck and not sure why or what's causing this. But it's frustrating that we can't find the problem.
I was thinking of cold air intake, power pulleys, headers, chip. Did I miss anything? Which ones are most reccomended?
Thanks,
Hunt Hodgetts, Atlanta, Ga
Thanks for the help!
Dave
You will have to have them drain holes cleaned.
Arrie
I just got a 91 burb 4x4 and the power windows are all jacked up. Does anyone have any advice on what kind of window motors to purchase to solve my problems? Thanks a lot.
Sam
Thanks for the response. The dealer has had my 02 suburban for 12 days now. As of today they are still "road testing" it to nail down the problem. I passed your suggestions on to the service supervisor who in turn is supposed to pass it on to the technician. We'll see... I will post if they find a solution. Thanks again.
Lisa
I don't think I've ever seen a Suburban from the past 10 years with any kind of rust issue, but it is interesting that it was something you saw on every single one.
Anyone else want to chime in?
John