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Any help would be great......
Before idle air valves came in use there used to be an adjustable stop screw for throttle, which could be adjusted for idle speed. This is still in use in all kinds of small engines.
Most car engines have had idle air valves for long time. For example my '95 Dodge Pick-up truck has one and I experienced exactly the same problem you described when the idle air valve failed.
Arrie
Even the Chevy dealer can't give me the answer.
While installing a brake controller for my RV, I LOST the nut that goes to the fuse box inside the engine compartment, and can't find a replacement.
On the fuse box in the engine compartment, (facing the steering wheel), there are two power poles standing straight up and a bolt that shoots out to the fender (parallel to the ground) where lots of red wires are connected. The nut that tightens on to that bolt that shoots out from the fuse box toward the fender (parallel to the ground) got lost, and the Chevy dealer has no idea what size or replacement I would get.
Right now, I have the cables (which when not connected the car will not start) pressed against the bolt, so the car works, but this is dangerous -- if the connection comes loose the car will die!
All I need is the actual size of the nut that turns on to this bolt and perhaps where I can find it.
It is uncanny that a single 1 penny nut is causing so much problem!
Thanks in advance.
Nathan
Maintenance I includes:
Cange engine oil and filter. Reset oil life system.
Lubricate chassis components.
Visually check for any leaks or damage.
Inspect brake system.
Check engine coolant and windshield washer fluid levels and add fluid as needed.
Rotate tires and check inflation pressures and wear.
Maintenance II (for "heavy use") adds the following:
Inspect engine air cleaner filter or change indicator (if equipped). If necessary, replace filter.
Inspect suspension and steering components.
Inspect engine cooling system.
Inspect wiper blades.
Inspect restraint system components.
Lubricate body components.
Check transmission fluid level and add fluid as needed.
It seems that the VIU (Vehicle Interface Unit or On Star) was the problem. The VIU and a VIC they take care of GPS, Cellular service and On Star. There are 2 cables that can be disconnected rather easily and these boxes are hooked thru the radio. I unplugged the 2 plugs and everything worked great (including my radio) for over 2 weeks. :shades: I took it to the dealer and they weren't sure if it was the VIU or the VIC but called on star and were told that it was commonly the VIU that took the juice out of the battery. Something about the unit wouldn't go to sleep and this was like leaving your lights on.
The unit cost is about $500 and replacement is a few $100 more, however, it appears that there was a recall on these boxes and I got it replaced for free. (I was told that it was replaced May 19 of this year by the previous owner. But the one I got was a defect.) So far the vehicle has ran for 1 1/2 weeks without a jump start and I still have all the electronics hooked up.
One thing that I am a little curious about.. I called On Star to see what color the light next to my button was supposed to be. They told me Green is good and red is bad. Both my dad and father in law have green lights on there's and they are not subscribers to On Star currently. On Star told me to take it to the dealer and they could repair it. When I told this to the dealer they said that the light would stay red until I activated On Star because they have to "Sync" up their stuff with my Suburban. Does anyone else out there have a red light on theres? When I picked it up from the dealership, the light was green and then went red, plus once on initial startup, I saw the light go green for a few minutes. It's kind of strange, but what the heck, it runs!
I went ahead and "bit the bullet" and had a new fuel pump installed while they had the fuel tank lowered for the replacement wiring harness (they charged me $20 labor + the fuel pump, which was like $480, ouch). My fuel pump had been getting loud and bought some peace of mind.
Steve, Host
I'm reposting this tip I found a while back on one of these boards. I just did it and it was extremely easy. The part number has changed. I used part number 15166054 and I have a 2002 Chevy Suburban with neutral interior.
1681
TIP: for those of you with Yukon XLs, Subs and Denali XLs, the third row seat
overhead light does not have on/off reading light switches. This can be easily
upgraded by ordering the second row light with switches from
.
The part #s are 15765710 for the Tan interior, 15044370 for Shale and 15765711
for Pewter. The light runs about $21.00 plus shipping.
To install, turn off the overhead dome lamps at the dash. The old lamp is
easily removed by using a small screwdriver to open the lens of the existing
lamp (look for the small notch to pry the lens open). This will enable the
light to simply be pulled down from the ceiling. Disconnect the wire plug from
the old lamp.
Next take a pair of strong scissors and simply cut the ceiling along the lines
impressed into the ceiling by the original lamp (the old lamp is smaller than
the new lamp). Plug the wire connector into the new lamp and test the lamp
briefly by turning on the overhead lamp switch at the dash. Reinsert the new
lamp into the larger opening with the lens open. Once the lens has been closed,
the new lamp with switches will be locked into place.
Its an inexpensive upgrade that will enable your third row passengers to do
some reading or coloring on any long trips at night. Unfortunately, you can't
perform the same upgrade on the cargo area lamp unless you run a ground wire
from the third row lamp and change the wire connector to incorporate this
extra ground wire.
Dies immediately after starting unless you keep throttle open. Then it flashes alternately the ABS lite and the Parking brake lite. All this stops after about 5 minutes.
Replaced the battery, no effect.
Help!
1.turned on key could hear fuel relay klick afteer a couple seconds
2. turned off key agen the relay klicked after a few seconds
3.got out fluke and found power always on to the n.o.contact of fuel relay
4. agen turned on key and noticed power to the common terminal of the fuel relay (grey wire)but no sound from the fuel pump
5.put 12v+ to grey wire no sound
6. checked continuity grey wire to ground found it to be open
question is there anything between the relay, pump and ground but wire and conectors?
I use this vehicle for my daily driver although that's minimal (I ride the bus to work). In the summer I tow my 5500-6000 lb boat to the lakes.
I am happy with the overall performance of the the vehicle while towing, but not real happy with mileage, I get about 8 mpg while towing, 65+ mph in OD. Not towing I get 10-11 around town, and 12-13 on the road.
I am considering moving up to a newer burb, 2004 or so.
My question is for owners out there: How do your newer burbs perform while towing and daily driving with similar weight tow behinds???
I am concerned about dropping down to a 1500 4x4 due to coil spring rear susp., smaller rear brakes, and weaker tranny. Thoughts from 1500 owners appreciated.
For 2500 owners, what kind of mileage are you getting with either 6.0l or 8.1L engines in daily driving and towing??
Thanks for any input. Catam
My boat weighs between 4500-5000lbs. I have a 2000 Suburban with 5.3 w/ 3.73 gears. I get 11-12mpg towing in 3rd since the 5.3 doesn't have enough torque to tow 65-70mph in o/d (not that you should tow in o/d w/ the 4l60e trans). Non towing, I generally get 14 around town and 16-17mpg on the highway.
My boat has a tandem axle trailer with brakes on one axle and about 350lbs of tonque weight. Even with a weeks worth of gear, a family of four and the boat hitched up, rear sag and braking performance is good enough. Current tahoe/suburbans have 4 wheel disk brakes.
Since you are most likely happy with the torque of your current big block and unhappy with the fuel economy, you'll have the opposite reaction with a 5.3 powered 1/2 ton. Fuel economy is tolerable, but towing power at reasonable rpm is lacking. The 5.3 needs some revs for power. If I were to go with another 1/2 ton, I'd either get a Suburban with 4.10 gears, or go with a Denali XL with the 6.0L for the extra torque.
Granted nothing comes for free. Towing performance comes at the expense of fuel economy.
Hope this helps....
Need new tires, any suggestions on the best value to quality tire ratio to buy? Has Firestone now, but I'm not a Firestone fan. Thanks.
I suggest laying off the gas pedal a little bit..LOL
Sounds like it is a problems with the speedo itself. It could be the VSS (vehicle speed sensor), but I would think you would be having other symptoms as well.
I replaced my tires with Firestone Destination LE. I've put about 12k miles on them and they have been fine. I got them for a good price and they are quiet and have worn well thus far.
Never towed so does not really answer the question, but some info.
Michelin X-Radials
I am looking for the location of the PCV valve on a 2002 Z71 Suburban 1500.
I have looked all over the engine for this this and cannot find it-- Do I need to remove anything to get to it or????
thanks
Dan
I would be very interested in finding out what kind of MPG numbers people are getting with 6.0L engine.
Wagoneerman, I have read several posts in the past that reported similar speedo prblems as yours, and people reported the fix ended up being a new instrument cluster. Hope this is not the case for you as it is very pricey $$$$$, or I hope you are still under warranty. Good luck.
Here's a quote from trailerboat magazines tow test of a 1/2 ton GMC Sierra w/ 6.0L
During flat highway towing, the truck had no trouble keeping the towed load cruising at 55 mph. Once the train was up to highway speed on a flat, level roadway, we found that it would tow the 22-foot Sea Ray in fourth gear without any torque converter slippage. However, we found it best to tow with the overdrive turned off and the Tow/Haul mode activated when any sort of incline was encountered or when towing in congested traffic — power was more quickly tapped into when needed. Steep hills didn’t quell its enthusiasm, as the 6.0L Sierra was able to pull the trailer up the most precipitous section of our test incline in third gear at 50 mph.
In our opinion, the Vortec 6000 is a much better towing engine than the 5.3L Vortec 5300 V-8, essentially because it produces 50 more ponies and 45 more lb.-ft. of crank-turning power. It’s more powerful than any engine previously available in a GMC 1/2-ton truck, and features numerous technological advances, including electronic throttle control instead of mechanical linkage between the gas pedal and engine throttle. This provides instant acceleration.
Do you happen to know what kind of mileage they are getting when not towing?
tidester, host
Dennis