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Chevy Suburban

18911131420

Comments

  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    If I remeber correctly, the guys I talked to mentioned non towing fuel economy in the 12-13mpg in town 15-16mpg hwy with the 6.0L powered Denali XLs.
  • shilo1shilo1 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2003 Suburban and had the popping noise. The dealer replaced the muffler under warranty and we have not heard it again.
  • popeyedoyle1popeyedoyle1 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue with my radio..let me know what you find out.6
  • nellieblynelliebly Member Posts: 4
    We took the truck a month ago to two dealers for no start problems. They never could find it. It won't always start. It's progressivly getting worse-somedays it takes over 40 turns of the key before it goes. It makes no noise when doing this. All lights and gauges are good.

    But now a couple of other things are going on when this happens. The interior lights won't always turn off. I lost the horn and a brake light keeps going out.

    Suggestions? :cry:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Take a scan through "No Start" Problems and Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy; maybe you'll get some ideas.

    For those concerned about their ABS brakes last month, the recall has been expanded.

    Steve, Host
  • jcollazojcollazo Member Posts: 1
    Hello:
    I'm new at this and cannot provide any help but; you might be able to help me. The Fuel Pump on my 1999 Sub stopped also. I'd like to check the fuse, before I attempt to replace the whole pump. Could you tell me where the fuse for the fule pump is located?
    Thanks!
  • slraganslragan Member Posts: 1
    We are currently considering purchasing a 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71 and we were surprised that the middle seat in the back third row only had a lap belt (no shoulder harness belt). This was very surprising to us. Has anyone else found this to be a problem and what did you do to remedy the situation?
    We are in need of being able to have all 5 seats in the back to have shoulder harness belts due to having children sitting in these seats.
    We are looking for an aftermarket resource for a Chevy Suburban SUV that sells shoulder harness seat belts for the middle seat in the third row in the back seat. And then we have to find someone qualified to install this system (if available).
    Lap belts (currently in the middle, only) are considered not as safe for children so I'm surprised that the three seats in the third row don't each have shoulder harness belts.
    Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! We live in the Kansas City area, so if you know of any businesses in this area that can address our situation, that info would also be helpful.
    Thanks!
  • markanagmarkanag Member Posts: 5
    I have an 01 sub and it recently started making a low pitched hum coming from the front end. It sounds a lot like the sound agressive mud-grip tires make on a paved road. I am currently running Pirelli Scorpion HWY tires that have about 15,000 miles on them and they are in good condition. I suspected the tires but it makes the noise on any road surface! I rotated the tires and that did not help matters. I suspected a wheel bearing but while I was rotating the tires I noticed that the sub has sealed bearings! So much for checking that. Anyone have any suggestions.
    Mark
  • automan8automan8 Member Posts: 1
    2001 2500, 8.1ltr,is stalling at low rpm we have replaced the fuel pump, battery, clean injection system, replaced spark plugs and we still have problems. I have read that changing the crankshaft sensor will fix problem. Can anyone verify this? :mad: :confuse:
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    If it is a crank shaft position sensor it should give you some rough engine performance with higher rpm too and certainly engine should be running really rough idle before it shuts off.

    Have you checked the idle air valve? I'm not sure but I would guess your engine has one. The newer engines, like in my '04 Tahoe 5.3 L, the idle air is controlled with the electronic throttle. Older engines used to have a separate idle air valve, which controls the air flow to engine when throttle is full closed.

    Idle air valve in many cases looks like a small electric motor mounted in the side of the throttle body. This is because it usually is a 'step motor' that is used to control the valve opening.

    Can you keep the engine running close to idle speed by holding the throttle open just a little bit? If you can your problem most likely is with the idle air valve.

    Arrie
  • dalmoredalmore Member Posts: 1
    Check the recall on your 2001 for a fuel module reservoir assemblies. This can cause stalling and starting problems
  • holler67holler67 Member Posts: 3
    If your motor will not crank, your problem is one of 2 things.

    Most likely a sticking starter solenoid. Either replace the solenoid on the starter or the starter / solenoid combonation itself.

    The other less likely is the ignition switch.

    Tell you what. If you do not replace a faulty starter soleniod, you may very well be replacing the ignition switch, wiring or connectors along with it.

    I believe the other problems are just a coincedence and require further checking.

    :)
  • 1mack1mack Member Posts: 3
    I have an'04 Burb and had the same problem with steering and replace the junk Firestones with an 8-ply truck tire and it is doing much better.
  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    Out of curiosity do either switches work to make the window go up? Drivers side switch or switch at the window? If one switch works and the other doesn't could be loose wire, dirty switch or bad switch. Otherwise if both switches don't work, I would guess bad or burnt out motor. You could wire 12VDC to it directly to check and see if that drives it. Good Luck!
  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    Do you remeber the part number for that?
  • quinonesnquinonesn Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2001 Suburban. My lights dim when I am coming to a stop and the truck sometimes stalls. The dealer already changed the alternator and that didn't solve the problem.
  • ced33ced33 Member Posts: 5
    I had a loose plug at the ignition switch with my 2002 Yukon XL which caused this. Since it sometimes worked when it was jumped, they just kept denying the problem until one day the jump did not work and they realized the ignitition switch harness was loose.
  • ced33ced33 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2003 Suburban, and if left undriven for over 18 hours, the battery is drained. Normally I would try to start it, no luck - hook up the portable battery, start it up and off we go. Twice I have hooked up a battery charger prior to trying to start it, and the dome lights and all come on full intensity (door open) and then go dim and I hear a clicking noise behind the dashboard, the lights flicker very dimly, and the the charger cannot charge the battery. I suspect that this is the gremlin I am looking for, but if I turn the ignition key and reset the charger - the battery charges. It is my wife's truck, and she is gone his weekend so I am planning to create the problem and not mess with the ignition until after I find what the truck is trying to do (I think turning the ignition switch resets whatever my problem is) but I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem or can give me things to look at. It is an LT, with Onstar. I have the bi-fuel engine.

    The 18 hours is a rough estimate, but during the week the truck does not sit for longer than 18 hours and the truck always starts. It happened at 20 hours last weekend.

    The noise from behind the dash is similiar to trying to start a Suburban with a dead battery - where you get the tap-tap-tap-tap noise from the under the hood, but this is much softer and based on the lights it is taking a lot of power. When I turn the ignition key, the dash gauges seem to go through a resent and I the radio makes noise (disc in the cd changer moving around is what it sounds like).

    I am guessing ignition switch, but I have heard about Onstar doing odd things also.

    Any direction would be greatly appreciated.
  • mikeviomikevio Member Posts: 2
    1999 Chevy Suburban...Whenever I climb a good sized hill or grade, the suburban looses power, bucks and the Engine Service light comes on flashing for a few seconds then stays on steady. It will stay on steady for a few hours, maybe a day or so, then suddenly extinguish. Took it to a dealer and they tuned up the car, changed the plugs and wires, etc. This however has not solved the problem. They suggest that it is from carbon build up in the valves. However, since then (and before) the car has not gotten better or worse. It only happens on hiils. (Load on the suburban). Could it be a bad Catalytic Converter?

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • hammer4hammer4 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever solve the steering problem. I have a similar issue and have had allignments done and still not resolution. With steering in center and moving forward, any slight touch right, and the steering jerks a few degrees like you need to "HOLD ON". However, it is slight in distance, but dramatic on the move. Someone suggested I get online to see if maybe it could be a pressure switch in the power steering.
  • mikeviomikevio Member Posts: 2
    Hello
  • helpme77helpme77 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever get a response to your proble with the security light?

    Mine has been coming off and on for over two years now. I've not had any problems starting it, but the dealer replaced the wiring harness in the steering column ($600)and like that helped. :mad:
  • bochevybochevy Member Posts: 5
    I'm also in the KC area and needed 5 seats. I bought one with a bench seat in the middle. I have 3 kids in that row and 2 in the back. I don't like that they don't have a shoulder belt, either.
  • bochevybochevy Member Posts: 5
    My battery on my 2003 just died last summer. Since it was still under warranty they replaced it. I was told it was a bad cell in the battery,
  • diver2diver2 Member Posts: 1
    I have similar problem and am wondering if you've resolved and if so how? Mine is a 2003 with 50,000 and this just started. My problem is after parking then restarting on two occasions it has shifted itself into 4low. Dealer reloaded some software after the first occurance. Did you get resolution?
  • akburbakburb Member Posts: 3
    I have the dreaded coolant leak. I have it all apart and am ready to put it back together. How tight do I torque the intake bolts and plenum bolts. Since I have the top end all apart are there any things I should be cleaning or replacing at this time? e.g. The fuel injectors - Is there a way to clean them? In my gasket kit I had two rubber o-rings for the fuel lines but I'm not sure where they go.
  • kevin29kevin29 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Suburban with the 5.3 engine with 76000 miles. When I start it in the cold weather, It sounds like my valves are sticking for a few minutes. Is this typical? Any advice?

    TIA
  • bochevybochevy Member Posts: 5
    My 2003 with <28K is in the shop again for the week. My rear wiper stopped spewing washer fluid again. This was fixed last May with only 22K on the car. Now it has happened again. Anybody else?

    My speedometer also decided it preferred to be 30mph higher than it should be. The needle wouldn't go below 30 at rest and treated 30 as zero. The mechanic acted like this was a normal problem. Has anyone had this problem?

    I love the Burb overall. I have 5 kids so I need something big, but I'm worried about what will happen in Oct when my warranty expires.
  • wandrr79wandrr79 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '01 with a 5.3. I was told this was carbon build up. I was given a factory memo, explaining what happens, also that this has no effect on the engine wear. Check with your local Chevy service center, and I'm sure they can give you the info.
  • rayjacobsrayjacobs Member Posts: 1
    I have had 2 suburbans the most recent a 1997 and it had the same problem with steering. Took it it to the dealership 2 times during the warranty period. They said they tightened a gear in the steering box. Continued having problems. About 1.5 years ago I moved and decided to take it to another dealer (long after warranty)and at my cost now. They replaced a steering sensor and have not had a problem since. They also told me the steering box is sealed,can't be adjusted and that many dealerships didn't know how to solve the problem. Check it out...good luck!
  • pshewardpsheward Member Posts: 11
    :confuse: Passenger seatbelt is a nightmare. It seems to be wound to tight. Like a windowshade thats to tight. It will not unwind with out catching. And once it clicks in don't breath too deep. Dealer replaced it once under warranty and it wasn't as bad. Now you have to have the car in park, no key in the ignition and it might give you enough strap to click in. Dealer claimed its part of Federal Regulations that require "extra tension" due to airbag deployment. Sounds like a bag of hooey.

    My wife drives this 90% of the time with no one in the passenger seat.
    Any feedback would be great.
  • snowman1975snowman1975 Member Posts: 1
    This message is in regards to message #334 by Bradleyd. I am having the same weird electrical problem on my 99 Suburban. The Service engine soon light comes on as well as the check guages. When this happens, the tachometer and speedometer stop working and the shift lights go out. I have a code reader and reset the codes after writing them down and it ran flawlessly for a little while but the problem came back. The codes are for the TCC solenoid switch, but I am almost certain it's just something electrical. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am not too excited about giving a mechanic money when I am pretty sure they won't look for the right thing. So if Bradleyd is out there and got his fixed, I would love to hear from him. Or anyone else for that matter who has any ideas.
  • rdkayakrdkayak Member Posts: 5
    After researching the internet, does anyone know of or recommend which is the best Motion Sensor for backing up that can be installed into the rear bumper? Thanks!
  • saszsasz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 suburban and in the past month 3 of my power window motors have gone. At a tune of $350 that is a lot of money. Does anyone know how to replace this? I would like to do it myself...

    Thanks,

    Sas
  • mfffsrmfffsr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 with the electronic controls and yesterday the heater went completely off line. I have check the fuses and everything is OK. The whole control for the heater/ac has gone dark and nothing works. Any ideas on what it might be? a inline fuse or something not shown in the owners manual?
  • debellidebelli Member Posts: 7
    My sister has a 96 Suburban that is giving her problems with the brakes. It doesn't happen all the time, and it happens when she's driving slow or fast, but when she comes to a stop the car skips / hops / juts - whatever you want to call it. Almost like the brakes are locking.

    She had the ABS sensor replaced twice in one month. She took it to my mechanic and he said it's not that. He told her since she's having so much trouble to take it to the dealer. Before she spends the money on that does anyone have any insight on what could be the problem.

    THANKS!!!!!

    Debbie
  • studiojstudioj Member Posts: 5
    I am in the process of replacing my pitman arm on a 2001 suburban. I have the end of the arm that attaches to the steering geer off, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get my pitman arm puller on the steering box end. I'm coming to the conclusion that the steering box has to come out... I just don't want to admit that the Chevy engineers were that idiotic... anyone else do this job? Pointers for getting the arm off the steering box?
  • parkerbobtampaparkerbobtampa Member Posts: 2
    Own a 2001 Chev Suburban 1500 with 5.3 L engine. The problem is this model suburban has two belts under the hood. One is the long serpentine belt that drives everything but the A/C. The second is the smaller A/C belt that goes from the crank pulley to the A/C compressor and has its own idler pulley / tensioner. The A/C belt area is the problem. I have an intermittent issue when under acceleration the A/C idler pulley is moved by the A/C belt to its maximum position and hits and rubs on the metal transmission cooler lines running from the transmission to the radiator. Makes a hellish grinding noise. Obliviously, there is something causing extra tension on the A/C belt. When it starts rubbing, turning off the A/C stops the issue.

    I took the truck to Chev Dealer and they replaced the belt, A/C Compressor and the idler pulley / tensioner. Seem to correct the problem for about 24 hours and then it returned. Still an intermittent issue. I took the truck back to the dealership and after a long diagnostic session all pressures checked out normally and they could not duplicate the problem. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
  • rt1092rt1092 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 95 Suburban, 3/4 ton, 350 auto, 63000 miles.
    I plan to tow a trailer 7500 pounds total weight. I know this isn't a stump puller and I figure I'll have to take it easy.
    What trans is in this vehicle?
    Can I tow with it?
    Are there any suspension tricks to beef up the rear suspension?
    Any advise greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    It seems that slightly bending the transmission oil cooler lines or routing them out of the way would be a much easier and logical solution than replacing the A/C compressor, tensioner pulley, and belt. is the belt tensioned correctly and the tensioner pulley locked in place properly? The tensioner pulley should not move once it is locked in place.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Does the vehicle have a factory installed towing package? If no, you need to install the auto transmission oil cooler. What is the rear end gear ratio? You need at have least 3.73:1 gear ratio to tow that much weight. Do you intend to tow this trailer over a long distance or just locally? On flat or hilly terrain?

    Towing a 7500 lb trailer with a 350 engine is pushing it to the limit. It can be done with proper equipment though. Transmission oil cooler, 4.10:1 gear ratio with locking rear differential(3.73:1 will also do), and preferably a transmission oil temperature gauge, which can be added.
  • rt1092rt1092 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I havent picked the Suburban up yet I'll get it on Monday. I am going to put a deeper transmission pan and a temperature gauge. I dont know for sure if it came with the tow package. Just know it has a 2" receiver hitch. If it didnt I'll be putting on a big cooler.
    How do I Identify the transmission Its an overdrive unit. Not sure if its a 4L60 or a 4L80. Can anybody help me here?
  • parkerbobtampaparkerbobtampa Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about repositioning the transmission lines but thought it might be important to figure what was causing the issue first. Both tensioners on this truck are spring loaded and normally have a small amount of travel as a normal function of their job. The A/C tensioner has to move about 4 inches (well within it allowed travel of this tensioner) to hit the transmission lines. Something is causing excess tension on the belt and the dealership & I are at a loss.
  • ekalakaekalaka Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Suburban. LOVE IT!!!
    I know there are ways to reset stuff, such as hours, oil life, chimes. I can't seem to locate any place that has those codes.
    I have a 2001 Impala and it's in the radio. I can't seem to get the radio to help me here.
    Any thoughts???
  • bootsiebootsie Member Posts: 1
    First 12k miles were great! Loved the SUV for our family of 6, former minivan owners. The last 9 months and 12k have been riddled with an HVAC (driver side)problem that even the "Field Engineer" has been unable to trace the root to. Almost daily now the heat (northeast owner)randomly changes over to cold, cold, cold.(started in the summer with a/c to heat) Numerous repair attempts, actuator doors, modules, burnt wires behind dash have all been addressed, the problem continues. Also, rear audio system has intermittently crashed and there continues to be a rear whistle in the passenger side during the a/c season. Anyone else experience so many problems??? Thanks. :cry:
  • leigh2leigh2 Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this figured out? I was warned in Nov that my fuel pump was going because someone heard a motorized noise - a "whrrring" - coming from the backend. Fuel pump finally went at the end of Jan. I just had it replaced... the motor noise is still there & now my tank is also off. I topped off the tank thinking it would fix it too - nope.

    Any ideas? also did you still have fuel intake problems after you first replaced? Thanks
  • leigh2leigh2 Member Posts: 2
    Just had my fuel pump replaced. Not happy with the way it's running yet. I was going to try to change the fuel filter myself. Can someone tell me where to locate it?

    Also my fuel gauge is now off - anyway to fix it? I think I paid for my mechanics vacation that he's on right now!
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  • chevmechchevmech Member Posts: 2
    You need an EVO sensor, fits on steering shaft under dash, very simple to replace
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