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Chevy Suburban

191012141520

Comments

  • chevmechchevmech Member Posts: 2
    You need an ignition switch. This was a common problem addressed in a TSB
  • arkitectarkitect Member Posts: 75
    Does anyone know where I can get a body for a 1983 2500 diesel GMC Suburban. I also need a new interior. Does anyone know what size speakers it has. Could I put a ladderback pick up body on it? Any info would be welcomed. This is my first car so I realy need some info. THANK YOU
  • rb94burbrb94burb Member Posts: 4
    Hello all, When towing a 5400# loaded weight horse trailer with my 94 3/4 ton Suburban with the 454 occasionally when coming to a stop the brake pedal goes to the floor and the power steering loses all power assist. Then everything returns to normal once the truck is moving again. I've replaced the power steering belt and made sure the tension was correct. What should I look at next?

    Thanks, Ron
  • 4greengrls4greengrls Member Posts: 1
    03 burb running great. yesterday after hour of driving, felt like loss of fuel with hesitation, no power, and vibration under hood. pulled over and rev'd and it stalled. engine light came on. waited 5 and it restarted. mechanic said computer reading norm. put in fuel cleaner for badfuel/water. ran fine light stayed off. then....did the same today only the engine light stayed on after restart, computer said misfire on cylinders?. mechanic wants $600 + for new fuel pump. is that the prob? help. afraid this is not the problem and $ wasted.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    If it is a fuel pump problem you should be able to see low fuel pressure at fuel rack. Get fuel pressure checked. This is not always easy as the pump could be going bad and give intermittent problem.

    Another possible problem is the crank shaft position sensor, which is mounted in a very hot place in the side of oil pan. These sensors sometimes fail due to hot environment and can cause misfire problem that you explained. Sensor costs something less than $100 but takes a little bit work to change as it is mounted in the side of the oil pan behind starter motor.

    Another ignition timing sensor is the cam shaft position sensor. This one is a bit more work to change as at least in my '04 Tahoe it is mounted behind intake air manifold, which might need to come out for access.

    Would be best if you could somehow repeat the stalling problem and monitor fuel pressure at the same time. If pressure drops off first and causes engine to stall it probably is the fuel pump problem. It could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.

    Have you asked your mechanic why he thinks it is the fuel pump problem?

    Ask him about the other possible reasons, like the sensors I mention above.

    Arrie
  • arkitectarkitect Member Posts: 75
    #570 of 573 restoring my car by arkitect Feb 26, 2006 (5:29 pm)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Does anyone know where I can get a body for a 1983 2500 diesel GMC Suburban. I also need a new interior. Does anyone know what size speakers it has. Could I put a ladderback pick up body on it? Any info would be welcomed. This is my first car so I realy need some info. THANK YOU
  • raidertonyraidertony Member Posts: 2
    Abs light stays on and can here the the motor running under the hud. I remover the fuse abs. Is the emc the problem under the hud.
  • jessejamezjessejamez Member Posts: 2
    Okay... I don't know if I'm supposed to post my problem in more than one place but this seems closest so far to matching the one i have so tell me if i'm doing this wrong please...
    I have a 1990 chevy blazer that is having (has been having...) some really bizarre electrical problems. It started with what i thought was a bad install of an aftermarket alarm system that was making the radio be on constant scan in FM mode and the cigarette lighter was making the dome lite go on... I disconnected the box to the alarm, rewired the stereo and those went away.
    Then, I noticed the oil pressure guage was bouncing up and down as if it had a loose wire... i found none. The interesting part was that when it was showing good pressure, the truck ran fine. When the guage dropped to almost zero, the truck started to run horribly. I knew that the oil pressure itself was not really low because of the way the guage bounced back and forth like it wasn't connected well... but why would the truck think it was supposed to run bad just cuz the guage said so? Even more bizarre... if the gas tank is running close to empty, and the oil pressure guage drops low again, the truck will start to stall at idle and the "check guages" light will come on. Anyone know what might cause this?

    There are greater problems than this, unfortunately, because now the truck just won't even turn over. I've replaced a bad starter and it worked for a few days but started giving me trouble by not even clicking when i turn the key sometimes... wait... try again a few times... and then turns over as if i just connected the battery again! The last time it happened... it never started again. That was a week ago.

    I wonder if the wires in the steering column could be related to both problems. The reason is because I also have this problem with the turn signal switch... sometimes the windshield wipers will go one for one pass when I use the turn signal... and lately I noticed a really strange "winding down" noice coming from the turn relay that seems to correspond with the timing of the pressure guage dropping and the check guages light coming on.

    I'm so frustrated i don't know what to do first. HELP? I hope someone can make sense of this!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I assume from your description that you have "Hydroboost" for your power brake system, instead of a vacuum powered unit. Hydroboost uses the power stering pump to create hydraulic pressure for power assist on the brakes.
    I would do 2 things, first check the entire power steering system/power brake booster for hydraulic fluid leaks. Replace any leaking part. Also, make sure you fluid reservoir is filled to the appropriate level. (Do not overfill, that will likely cause a part of the system to start leaking.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I just bought an 03 K1500 LT with 71000 mi.
    I bought it during the day, and didn't notice till last night that the overhead interior lights do not work. This applies to the 3 sets that are over each seeting row and also the lights on the inside panels of both rear doors.
    I pushed the dome overide switch several times, and no change. I also tried manually turning lights on with dimmer dial by turning full up.
    I also noticed the underhood light, does not come on, and the reverse lights are not working.
    I checked the underhood fuse labeled INTPARK and appears fine, (I will double check with an Ohm meter)
    Is there a relay or another fuse that might be the culprit. Perhaps one related to the Retained Accessory Power circuit. I know it is involved with all but the reverse lights.
    Just FYI, the front row map reading lights do work, as well as glovebox light, and front door panel lights.
    Any one with similar issues or a fix would be greatly appreciated.
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    We have an 97 Sub with 22k, use it very little, and had
    the same problem. I pulled the bat cable and put an
    amp meter on. Watched the current draw, and found
    the interior light circuit pulling too much. Pulled
    the fuse for the interior lights and problem went away.

    Since we use it so little, I have not fixed it, but
    problem is the delay module for the interior lights.
  • rb94burbrb94burb Member Posts: 4
    Thanks catam. Yes, it is the hydroboost system. There is no large vacuum boost unit behind the master cylinder. Just a manifold type unit with lines to the power steering pump. There are no leaks in the entire system and the fluid level is correct. So is it possible the unit behind the master cylinder is bad? Or is it the power steering pump itself?
  • toddr1toddr1 Member Posts: 1
    My rear brake pads are wearing out after 5K miles. I still have the original front brake pads on the Suburban. The car has 116K on it. It appears as if uneven brake pressure is occuring. Has anyone experienced this or do you have any ideas on why the rear brakes would be wearing out so quickly?
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    It sounds to me, that for some reason you PS pump is not generating adequate hydraulic pressure at low engine speeds. (Engine speed drops to near idle while braking). It is certainly possible that your pump is failing, I am not real familiar with the internals on a PS pump, but it seems reasonsable that some internal seals may be leaking. Personally I would likely just replace the PS pump, its relatively easy and cheap. In the interim, when braking with your trailer, you could shift the tranny to neutral, left foot brake, and rev the engine to 2000 or so RPM. This also may be a method of telling you if its just a matter of low hydraulic PS pressure, (which to me sounds very likely.)
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I believe there was some discussion about problems with excessive wear on rear disc brakes in the Silverado discussion. You may want to repost your question there, I don't remember any fixes.
  • walshdbwalshdb Member Posts: 2
    2003 Suburban - All of my 12 volt accessory plugs (including the lighter) no longer work. I figure it's a fuse, but with 3 fuse blocks, I can find nothing that calls out what fuse it actually is in the owners manual. It lists fuses for everything except what used to be "accessories." Can any one help? Thanks.
  • mabakersmithmabakersmith Member Posts: 1
    My Suburban is beginning to hesitate when I put it in reverse. Slowly it is not wanting to back up at all. Is this common? What is the likely problem and will this cost me my next 2 months paychecks to repair? :sick:
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Do you have the steering wheel audio controls? On these trucks, the computer with all that "stuff" is built into the instrument (gauge) cluster, right below the odometer, but in order to work it, you have to have the steering wheel buttons. If you do, just look in your owner's manual about how to use the system.

    Part of the reason why, when we were looking for an '04, it had to have the controls. Even the dealer said it was dumb that so many other dealers ordered the trucks without them back then, because you loose all that programming functionality.

    They then became standard in '05+ models.
  • tobjotobjo Member Posts: 1
    Are Suburbans built for sale in California any different from those built for sale elsewhere. I'm looking at one (1999) originally built for California. Good or Bad?
    Thank you,
  • rb94burbrb94burb Member Posts: 4
    Horse show season is starting soon so I'll have to try your suggestion. But either way, I think I'll replace the PS pump and if that doesn't correct the problem, then the mater cylinder and the Hydro boost unit. Surely, that ought to correct the problem! Thanks for the input! I appreciate it!
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    My 03 Burb check engine light came on again. The previous light on my last tank of fuel was for "Evap emission control leak" which probably meant gas cap, the light came on as the tank ran below 3/4 tank, stayed on, and had to be cleared by tech at auto zone. The light came on again on this tank of fuel at about the same fuel level, anyone have a suggestion??? I already put a new gas cap on, and made sure its tight.

    Also I still haven't figured out my headliner lights are not working, is there any way to test the relays in the fuse box that is located to the right of steering column under the dash??? Owners manual shows 2 different relays associated with headliner power.
    Thanks for any input. Catam.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Could be a problem with fuel tank pressure sensor. Same type of sensor as MAP sensor is. This sensor is the one that sees if the gas cap is loose.

    Arrie
  • mchi1991mchi1991 Member Posts: 1
    CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME ? I HAVE A 1997 SUBURBAN WITH 216000 MILES . MY PROBLEM IS THAT THE AC IS NOT COOLING AS WELL IN THE FRONT AC AS IT DOES WITH THE REAR AC. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPREICATED
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    Have you checked the freon. I would check to make sure the system is fully charged first.
    There is also an expansion valve (I think that is the name), that could be plugged, which may be limiting freon flow.
    The only other thing I can think of would be the evaporator in the dash for the front AC. (Pray its not that because its a real PITA to change.
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I need a new foglamp for the drivers front of my 2003 Suburban. I was wondering if anyone knew where you could pick up a replacement on the cheap. I would be happy to buy an aftermarket as long as it fits the same mount as the original in the front bumper, and had the same electrical connector.
    Thanks for any info. Catam.
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    Do a google search. There are several car parts discounters that sell common parts. I had to order one a
    few months ago. Fog light was a perfect fit, and was
    about $42.00.
  • ken5kidsken5kids Member Posts: 1
    i have an 02 suburban i'm replacing the shift cable ... only the end at the transmission is broke ...the cable comes in 2 parts can they be seperated?
  • cnhorn63cnhorn63 Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 K1500 Suburban with 43K miles has slight coolant leak. I completed a coolant flush 2 months ago and replaced the coolant with Dexcool. It appears the leak may be coming from the intake manifiold and dripping down the front of the engine. I have heard stories about Dexcool causing gaskets to fail. Am I on my own with repairing this leak or are there any TSB on this vehicle pertaining to intake gasket failure. I bought this vehicle 2 years ago.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A large newspaper is looking to interview consumers who have large SUVs but might rent a car to save on gas when going on long trips. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Thursday, April 6, 2006 containing your daytime contact information, along with the make and model your vehicle.

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the response. On Star was the culpret! Thank God it was under warranty or I would have done just like you and left the wire unplugged.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    I recentally saw a fairly new Suburban with MEXICO license plate. It had a Silverado pickup front end. Why the difference and they didn't do that in the USA?
  • wtilleywtilley Member Posts: 2
    That is exactly what my 04 burb did and it was the fuel pump pack. It was replaced under warranty and no problems since.
  • lotsofquestionlotsofquestion Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Chevy Suburban, one of the best auto's I have ever owned. In fact after 124,000 miles I was finally required to replace the back brake pads FOR THE FIRST TIME since I bought it new in 2002. The front pads did not need it... yet. What a contrast to the 2000 suburban I had
    owned previously in which I was replaceing brake pads every 20 - 25,000 miles.

    Anyway, I am looking for a company that will go through one of these and completely rebuild / upgrade Suburbans from front to back,
    mostly mechanically. I would like to have the engine and transmission rebuilt, or even better, made more powerful. Are there
    companies out there that are well known for this sort of thing? I was thinking something down the lines of a "Stillen" type of
    rebuilding. Any suggestions? I would really like to keep this one for another 5 - 6 years. I think Chevy / GMC peaked on their
    quality with these cars in 2002 / 2003.



    Lotsofquestions
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    A friend of mine did this way back in the early 90's. He got a high mileage Suburban that was mostly used for commuting on the LA freeways. Then he put $10,000 into it completely rebuilding the thing. We all thought he was nuts to pump that much money into the rig, but he's still driving it some 12 or so years later.

    He just used a trusted mechanic who did all the work but I think he kept most of it stock.

    Steve, Host
  • kreinerkreiner Member Posts: 1
    I have been reading quite a deal about the Suburban in these messages. I am almost ready to purchase a 2007 LTZ Suburban loaded. Does the new Suburban actually get 15/21 MPG as stated? I mainly have 1 child most of the time since the oldest drives, but I also have 3 godchildren, friends, carpools, hauling items for the house. Is this a really good purchase for the money and fuel economy? Everyone seems to be very researched on the vehicle and would greatly appreciate any comments before my purchase.

    Thanks!
    Kim
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    I happen to like the Suburban a lot, and am never one to tell someone that they "should not" drive a large SUV. But, if you usually have just the one child and only need the third row for very occasional use, I would probably go for a Tahoe or Yukon instead, just to save a little money and take up a little less space in the garage.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    I don't mind telling someone what not to drive...IMO, I don't see who in their right mind (with gas prices approaching $3.00 a gallon and rising with no end in site) would even consider a large SUV unless you have
    3 or 4 kids or maybe tow a trailer. IMO I believe this country would be the mess it's in with the gas prices, if everyone is always thinking bigger is better. I got rid of my Lincoln Town Car for a Kia. I can afford the gas what is the sense in giving into the oil companies and line
    their FATwallets when it's not necessary at all!! I refuse to spend 3 times as much money on gas. I'd rather spend that money on something else that I'd get a better return on. AMERICA needs to learn as far as cars go, BIGGER IS NOT BETTER anymore. Yes, it would be ok if the gas was
    more plentiful and less expensive. The oil companies really has a big advantage over us consumers. I am not going to give in to that. Yes I am paying a lot for gas but I am not going to waste it either when I don't have too. Is a Suburban, Escalade etc really necessary? How many are use to their FULL capacity? Especially 4-wheel drives how many actually use them off road?
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I got rid of my Lincoln Town Car for a Kia. I can afford the gas what is the sense in giving into the oil companies and line their FAT wallets when it's not necessary at all

    Well good for you. If you really want to make a statement, ride a bicycle....

    I would agree that if you aren't going to use the utility a Suburban/Tahoe offers then another type of vehicle is a better choice. But I'm not going to tell someone else what to drive. At the same time, I don't want to hear SUV owners screaming that they had to put $80 in the tank either. .

    I guess you'll just love hearing how my Suburban gets about 5x the fuel economy of my boat. I guess we should ban them too and anything else that is wasteful.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    Well good for you. If you really want to make a statement, ride a bicycle

    Please don't be a smart aleck you know as well as I do that is not a reasonable answer!

    I would agree that if you aren't going to use the utility a Suburban/Tahoe offers then another type of vehicle is a better choice.

    That was my point or are least I am trying to say. How many people that buy them actually use the utility of one?

    At the same time, I don't want to hear SUV owners screaming that they had to put $80 in the tank either.

    I couldn't agree with you more on that.

    I am not saying to get rid of EVERYTHING wasteful. I have no issue if someone has one if the are used for what the are intended for.....towing large trailers or transport more than say 4 or 5 people on a regular basis. But to have one one...especially an Escalade....just to show off and impress is just not necessary.

    I am hoping just like everyone else gas will go back down you sane levels.
  • lotsofquestionlotsofquestion Member Posts: 3
    I say let the capital markets take their course. If someone wants to pay the high price of gas for a guzzler SUV, then let em. The market will equal itself out. Other technologies will begin to take the lead when Fuel prices get high enough. These are the times when spectacular inventions occur... the times when it is necessary.
  • 8100burb048100burb04 Member Posts: 1
    If I were going to spend a lot of money to rebuild, I would do the ultimate. Check out www.duramaxsuburban.com. They will upgrade you to a complete Duramax/alison suburban, including new axles and a slight body lift to accomodate the alison transmission. Let me know how it works!!
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    Gas guzzlers is only part of the problem, the other big
    problem is people drive to much. A person with a gas
    guzzler that drives 15 miles per day, uses no more gas
    that a person that drives 30 - 40 miles per day with
    economy car. Everyone seems to forget that many cars
    get worse mileage than SUVs. Big Mercedes, BMWs,
    Bentlys, Ferraris, all get 8 to 12 mpg city, which is
    worse that most SUVs.

    As one person said " If you really want to make a
    difference ride a bicycle".

    I drive two cars, and drive about 7000 miles per year,
    so gas in no real big issue to me.
  • edwin10edwin10 Member Posts: 32
    You gave up a Lincoln Twon Car for a Kia, did you hit
    your head or something.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    OF COURSE NOT!!!! It just didn't make sense for me to spend LARGE AMOUNTS of money a month just to get somewhere!! If and when (I know fat chance!!!) the gas prices go down, I will be back in a big car (if there are any around after this high gas price episode).
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    And imagine how much more money you'd save if you stuck w/ the Kia even after/if gas prices go down? Oh wait--it wasn't so much about saving money more than it was about trying to avoid fattening the oil companies' profit margins... ;)

    That is an interesting take on why one should/would drive an econobox instead of a gas guzzler--not to help reduce oil dependency, nor to cut down on gas costs...but to keep the oil companies from profiting even further from spiraling gas prices!
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    --not to help reduce oil dependency, nor to cut down on gas costs...but to keep the oil companies from profiting even further from spiraling gas prices!

    give me a break!! IT does all 3!!
  • alsehendo34alsehendo34 Member Posts: 2
    What trany is in my 92 Suburban. It sits 300 miles away and I want to bring a fluid filter kit with me next trip to the cabin.

    I may even put some gas in it this year :-)
  • alsehendo34alsehendo34 Member Posts: 2
    Do you think the tranny cooler mounted behind the radiator is original to the truck--or is the stock cooler inside the radiator somehow and the one behind an add-on.

    The cooler behind the radiator was leaking, so I jumperred around it with hoses and no more leaks--only to confirm it was the cultrate.

    I know some people add a second tranny cooler and run it in series with the stock one. Should I replace the one behind the radiator and add a second or just run a high capacity cooler in front of the radiator and leave the one behind unhooked.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    My '00 Suburban has a tow package which also provides an external cooler in front of the radiator, that works in tandem with the internal cooler in the radiator.

    I've never seen a trans cooler mounted behind the radiator, doesn't seem like it would leave much room for the fan. Are you positive that what you see is just the trans cooling lines going into the radiator?

    I would just run a high capacity cooler in front of the radiator. I forget the proper way to run the lines, but external trans coolers I've seen use the internal cooler as well. I just can't remember if you want the trans fluid to go to the radiator or external cooler first.
  • arkitectarkitect Member Posts: 75
    Does anyone have a good suggestion on how I can restore my 83 burb? It has mainly interior problems but since I haven't drived it in a while all the eletrical went out on it. Does anyone know how to get one of these things on "pimp my ride" or something else nice. I realy care about this car so anything would be helpful.
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