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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • arkitectarkitect Member Posts: 75
    If anyone has a wiring diagram for my car I would appreciate if you could send me a copy of it over the internet.
  • suburknocksuburknock Member Posts: 8
    Is there an experienced "certified" Chevy mechanic that can help me? I have a brand new 2006 Suburban 8.1 engine which at first start of the day after running for 30 seconds develops a light knock for about 30 more seconds. It seems like it may be comming from the passenger side. I first heard it at about 000,750 miles. It now has 001,650 and happens every time at first start of day. Is there some way to isolate, or/and determine if it is upper or lower? :)
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A national newspaper is looking to interview consumers who just purchased or are looking to purchase a large SUV. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday May 10, 2006 by 5:00 PM PST/8:00 PM EST containing your daytime contact information and the vehicle you are interested in purchasing or just purchased (please provide approx. date of purchase).

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • epifan68epifan68 Member Posts: 5
    Folks,
    I have exact the same problem with my O4 Suburban: vibrates at idle (stop signs, lights etc). Also there is noise when under load at about 1.8 RPM. It looks like exactly what you are talking about. Any info on the bulletin about the "flex joint"?
    Thanks
  • durtisdurtis Member Posts: 4
    Wow, you have to love the inernet. I have been having the same "droning" noise, and it's driving me nuts. I am quite enthused to have found a possible solution. Just had the truck at the dealer, who was not able to offer a solution. Do you have any other information on what was replaced? or the bulletin number? The dealer had shown me a bulletin, but it did not say anything about the flex joint. I would prefer the dealer to replace since I just bought the vehicle from them...a 2004 Suburban with 28k mi.
  • mekennimekenni Member Posts: 4
    I have the same exact problem. 2004 Suburban LT. From the day I brought it home, Vibration/Droning when at a light, idling, or when in reverse. Maddening! I had to file the lemon law to get the dealer to change the flex joint. But it hasn't helped. What are we to do?
  • epifan68epifan68 Member Posts: 5
    I found another thread on the issue on another site but I can not post a link to it here.


    From what I understand this problem is O4 Suburban/Tahoe/etc specific. I had an 03 Suburban with no problems like that. It looks like the only confirmed solution is "exauhst dampener". Any info on that would be greatly appreciated. Part#, TSB# etc ....

    Also .. all of you 04 owners. I do not like sound from right hand side engine compartment at acceleration (or undr load) at around 1.8K RPM. Any similar problems?
  • estakaestaka Member Posts: 11
    How do I calibrate a compass rear view mirror of a 1998 chevrolet suburban?
    I know to hold the compass button down until i have to pick a zone, but I have no clue as to the zone i am in while in miami, FL. then I have to complete 3 circles/// I believe,
    Anybody know or have a map ofthe different zones in the US?
    thanks
  • suburknocksuburknock Member Posts: 8
    Message #624 re: (knocking) New info on 8.1 is that there is a class action lawsuit in progress out of San Francisco against GM for "piston slap" which includes engines from 1999 thru 2003 4 to 8 cylinder engines including 8.1 s. Looks like sales people, knew or should have known about this condition causing a knocking sound at start up. Perhaps like when medications are advertized they at least should make a prospective buyer aware of possible side effects i.e. noise. The slap apparently is caused by a little to much clearance between piston and cylinder. (To much clearance will never become less or better and not likely any quieter or safer. There is no doubt in my mind the "service mgrs/directors" are aware of this complaint and have just plain LIED to me. I guess GM thinks they are so big we don't matter but the fact is we do not have to buy GM. The Japanese do not treat customers this way and their quality and reputation for long lasting vehicles is well known. GM is and has been in denial for way to long. I have been able to isolate the knocking to only ONE cylinder since posting original message. ONE of eight knocking is not "normal" as Chevy has stated to me. GM should be careful what they say as it eventually will come to what did they know and when did they know it. When you sell a product knowing it might very well fail and do not disclose this fact is it fraud. ???? We will see. :) I will keep this board up to date.
  • durtisdurtis Member Posts: 4
    I had read another post where the flex joint did the trick, I was hoping that was the fix. I also have an 04 LT, love the truck, hate the vibration. Honestly it's enough to make me sell the truck, driving me crazy. I just got off the phone with the dealer, they offered to take another look, and possibly change the flex joint. They did explain that GM does not have a fix, and they would be eating the cost. I have only had the truck a couple months now, and bought it as GM Certified. I work for a tier one supplier to GM for exhaust and ride control products. I have asked my R&D guys what it could be, I will let you know if I find anything out. The dealer did adjust the motor mounts last time I was in there at GM's suggestion. The noise did not away, but changed to a solid constant noise, and did not rise and fall as before...that leads me to think it might be engine vibration isolation issues.
  • epifan68epifan68 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I did fairly extensive research on that as well. From what I have read installing "exaust dampener" is the way to go. I will try it in the next few days. At least that is the only confirmed fix to the problem that I found so far. Two people independently confirmed that it worked. I love the truck as wll ... so do my kids. Here is a quote I found in another thread:

    "I had the same vibration, and went through the same issues with the dealership trying a bunch of different solutions. None of them (including the PCM reprogram) worked, until I had the exhaust dampener installed. It's a TSB for the full-size vans, but it works. Looks like a five pound hockey puck, hanging off my exhaust pipe, right behind the rear wheel. Not incredibly aesthetically pleasing, but it lessened the vibration considerably. Before, you could actually see the exhaust pipe shaking violently as the engine idled or you held your foot on the brake. I've heard of another TSB out there that suggests installing a flex pipe in the exhaust, but I'm not sure how willing a dealer will be to do that, especially out of warranty. Try the dampener - it might help, and it's probably a lot cheaper"
  • durtisdurtis Member Posts: 4
    I just got an email from my R&D guys (engineers) and they confirmed that the Suburban (GMT 800 Platform) from 2000MY-2006MY did not ever have a flex pipe as original equipment. So it would not be a retro fix, but might fix the issue. The placement, and rigidity would have a big impact. We have not had any warranty issues for exhaust drone...(we MFG everything from the Y pipe back to the tip on this platform). He suggested checking all the connections (Y-pipe, muffler) for torque, and inspecting the hangers. He did mention that we do not manufacture the Y pipe, and that there have been several complaints about the 1/2 ton 4.3 V6, and they used a mass dampener, with limited success, to fix the issue. I am not sure what that is. He also mentioned that GM has switched vendors for the rubber isolators within the last year because of failures. Be sure to check them for wear, and that they are hanging correctly, that might cause a similar problem. Keep in mind, he has not seen the truck in person, and is just giving his best guess. Adding a weight to the end of the exhuast, if it works, might expose another issue. Maybe put another hanger on there, or a different rubber isolator? so you don't have run a hockey puck? I am going to check the pipe for vibration today and see if it's shaking...if so, I might be chasing the wrong issue..maybe it's engine vibration isolation that is causing the exhuast to move? Bad engine mounts or perhaps a tuning issue causing a shake? I would hope the dealer had checked this when my truck was there for two days!!

    Thanks for the post.
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    Piston slap has been a problem for years.
    Chevy used to give a 100,000 mile engine warranty if you complained enough. For what it's worth, your engine will likely never fail as a result of piston slap. I know it probably drives you nuts because I have the same engine with the same problem. I would be surprised if the class action thing got very far, but keep us posted.
  • suburknocksuburknock Member Posts: 8
    Took 8.1 knocker in yesterday for 3 time. Dealer verified everything I stated. This morning after keeping it overnight they heard the knock at 30 seconds and it quit after about 30 more seconds so--- Dealer called GM tech assistance and they believe possibily a wrist pin causing knock. They will tear down and I think put in a pressed wrist pin, I guess it has floating pins now??? Not sure. I was told "BUT" if the pin doesn't eliminate knocking they will then feel it is piston slap and won't repair that. I was hopping the slap was minor compared to a rod knocking if that were the problem. I don't know your qualifications but I hope your knowledge re: piston slap is correct. It seems like GM agrees and is saying the slap is due to "design" and as you state won't hurt much. I am now just waiting for the call repair done come get it. Will post when get back from dealer. Thanks for your reply Terry!!!
  • epifan68epifan68 Member Posts: 5
    very interesting ... thank you. Myabe these are indeed rubber isolators. I owned an 03 Suburban, and it did not have any vibration problems like that. If they never switched from a flex pipe, then it must be something else ... like isolators . The pipe does vibrate in tune with steering vibration .. will ask the dealer tomorrow
  • durtisdurtis Member Posts: 4
    I had a very interesting evening last night. I went home and checked the exhaust hangers per my engineers request. They were all hanging strait down (perpendicular to the ground) and leaning slightly towards the front of the vehicle, just like he said they should. They did not appear to be worn at all. I then had my wife sit in the truck while I put my foot on the tail pipe, I could feel the vibration through my shoe. When I placed my foot on the pipe the noise/vibration in the cab went away. I then took a rubber bungee cord, wrapped it around the rear hanger (rubber piece) and attached it to the frame as tight as possible. Putting a lateral force on the rubber piece to keep it from shaking from side to side. The vibration/noise has be cut by at least 90%. On the drive in today there was minimal vibration/noise. About the same as the 2006 Silverado loaner the dealer gave me last month. I am not sure if the motor is vibrating more than normal and just transmitting though the exhaust (engine mounts), or the mounting system is not sufficient, or worn out. I have another note into my engineer to see if he has a recomendation...maybe just have a muffler shop tack another hanger mount on there and run another rubber isolator? In the mean time I would recommend the $1.99 rubber bungee cord!!
  • epifan68epifan68 Member Posts: 5
    thank you. That is interesting indeed. I will try to do the same, and will report the results
  • theclawtheclaw Member Posts: 2
    Back in Dec. 2005, I asked if anyone new why my burb was stalling and got no reply. I took it to a family friend who owns a shop and he found out that my EGR valve was plugged. He bypassed it and it works great. I am having another EGR valve put in, but for the past 4 months I haven't had any problems. He said that the diagnostic computer didn't pick this up that's why the dealer and others couldn't figure it out. Hopefully this will help others out there.
  • tantonetantone Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem in my 01. Wondered if you found out what the problem was? Does anyone else have any advise?
    It is a low pitch hum that sounds like road noise but my tires seem fine and you hear it on any road surface.
    Tony
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    "As with the Yukon I drove a few months ago, this SUV feels much closer to a premium German vehicle (i.e. Mercedes GL) than any of the previous GM SUVs. The interior also feels substantially better in terms of material quality and build quality."

    2007 Chevrolet Suburban (Karl on Cars)

    Steve, Host
  • lmoettelilmoetteli Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Burb and it stalls when I hit a severe bump. It doesn't do it all the time, just occassionally. The other day it stalled when I turned onto a street. It will restart if I turn off the key and turn it back on again. I just brought it home from the dealer, and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They supposedly had changed out the fuel module with the recall. Any ideas???? Lisa
  • goose249goose249 Member Posts: 6
    I have an intermittent problem with my '99 Suburban. Every so often the ABS light comes on on the dash, the heater/ac/fan quits, as do the rear defroster, cruise control, and 4wd switches. Sometimes the "service 4wd" light goes on and off in the middle of this and when this happens, the transmission shifts funny (indecisively?) coming off a stop. The problem usually fixes itself in minutes, hours or days. The dealer has put it on the computer and has gone so far as to install an on-board computer for a week and it never gave a code. I've pulled a lot of the dash apart and inspected connectors and cleaned the grounds under the dash. No difference. We're leaving for the family road trip in three weeks and we can't be w/o air conditioning, at least that's what my family tells me. Any thoughts out there?

    I was also wondering if it could be an ECM. It used to be that I could wiggle/replace the ECM1 fuse under the hood and the problem would correct. Lately that hasn't fixed the problem.
  • njborn1970njborn1970 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 K1500 Suburban, and occasionally when I put her in reverse there will be a clanking sound coming from the rear. Like metal banging past metal. At times it will included what feels to be(slight)grinding from the driver side rear wheel. Does anyone understand what is happening?
  • jrvanclevejrvancleve Member Posts: 1
    my suburban does the same thing, i only know of two fuse blocks............. have you found out any reason why?
  • raider1raider1 Member Posts: 3
    I need to replace the tires on my 2004 Tahoe LT. Any body use the Nokian Vatiiva or Nokian WR SUV tire on your Tahoe or Suburban. Interested to know how they work
  • tjeschetetjeschete Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing the same issue with my 2001 Suburban. I've replaced the plugs, wires, and throttle control sensor. I've also sprayed electrical cleaner behind the throttle butterfly as well as cleaned the MASS air flow sensor. Any other ideas are appreciated.
  • rudemanrbrudemanrb Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys I'm new to the forum.

    I have a 92 GMC suburban. that's driving me bonkers.
    It seems I keep blowing the 20A Fuse for the intstrument cluster. 1st it started out weird. then it increased. now everytime I put a fuse in soon as I turn the car to start it blows the fuse. I also noticed that when I put the driving lights on. the chiming sound plays and doesn't stop (until I turn the driving lights off) (the chiming sound you get as if you left your lights on after turning off the car)

    any thoughts?

    help!

    Rudy B
  • startn2h8chevystartn2h8chevy Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 chevy that quit on me and will not start sounds like same prob. I changed the coil, module and even fuel pump but mine cranks but kills right away. Did yours do that?
  • startn2h8chevystartn2h8chevy Member Posts: 2
    Truck killed going down the road, it starts but dies immediately. I changed coil, module and fuel pump it loses fire after it cranks. Help before i buy a ford.
  • papabear6papabear6 Member Posts: 1
    do you know how to fix tail light problem :confuse:
  • gto3gto3 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Suburban's speedo,tach,& shift ind. lite would work intermittently,and the trans wouldn't shift right. After checking similar posts #307,334,337,339,& 551, post #569 from chevmech hit the nail on the head. He indicated the culprit was a common ignition switch problem and noted a tech service bulletin. I went to the local dealer where I know some of the employees. NO TSB was listed in the service department but I went to the parts dept. to buy a switch. After working on cars for 30 years I knew this was the answer, I just have limited experience with computer vehicles. THE TSB WAS LISTED IN THE PARTS BOOK.... along with all of the possible symtoms. $230., but none in stock. Ordered one from the area "Bumper To Bumper" dealer for $130. with next day delivery. Installed switch, Took 2000 mile vacation the next day with absolutely NO PROBLEMS!! P.S. The dealership thought it probably was a dash cluster or a computer at a cost of $400.-$600. EACH! I'm a first time user of this forum and I want to thank the creator and all of the participants. CHEVMECH...I hope I can buy you a steak dinner in the future. THANKS AGAIN...gto3
  • jon356jon356 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1985 Chevy Suburban C2500 w/454

    My High Beams are on all the time, and I cannot cancel them.

    I replaced the dimmer switch on the Steering column, above the pedals, but that did not solve the problem. Pulling the column stalk backwards does not result in a click, and I noticed that neither the new or old dimmer switch posses a detent in it’s movement.

    I therefore have 2 questions:

    1) Is there a component connected to the stalk responsible for the click that I must replace?
    2) I tested continuity of both the new and old dimmer switch, and they behaved the same. Curiously, throwing the switch trigger did not change the continuity. No matter what position the switch was in, there was always continuity between the bottom single connector, and the top right. The top left connector never has continuity with either of the others. Is this correct?

    Thank you for taking my question.
  • deadcar97deadcar97 Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same thing happen to me on tues.night,have you found your problem and if so what finally fixed it.
  • sburroussburrous Member Posts: 2
    I am looking for some help with my 03 z71 suburban. First let me tell you my husband is deployed and I know little about the truck, other than what I have had to have done to it. So here goes, any help is greatly appreciated.

    In Dec my spark plugs went bad. So I had them replaced, plugs and wires. Ran great after that, until Feb/March. One of the cylinders had spark plugs that went bad. Misfire on #4 and #5. Well, guess what? It just happened again. I just had to have them replaced again. The mechanics are scratching their heads. Not sure what to do. I took it to the dealer and they don't know what's wrong with it either. I have had the o2 sensor replaced because it went bad shortly before the spark plugs went bad this last time. I have replaced the fuel filter and the intermediate(something) was lubed a few days ago. Still no answer to my spark plug problems though. If someone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

    Thanks
    Shannon
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Did the spark plugs really go bad or is this just an assumption based on the misfire codes?

    --Arrie--
  • sburroussburrous Member Posts: 2
    The codes were misfires. But the spark plug that they gave me this last time was cracked. It's always a misfire on the same cylinder. The same spark plugs.

    Shannon
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    This might sound too simple to be the problem but it happened to my '04 Tahoe and can happen to anybody.

    The spark plug boots have an aluminum heat shields installed around them. Some of the spark leaks through the rubber boot to the heat shield and from that to engine ground thru a grounding spring mounted in the end of the heat shield.

    When spark plugs are replaced the boots naturally must first be removed to gain access to the plugs. When boots are removed it easily happens that the spark plug wire connector inside the boot slides out some before it comes loose from the plug. When the wires are then installed back on the new spark plugs the plugs do not go as deep in the boots as they were if the wire connector had moved. THIS HAPPENS VERY EASILY AND GREAT CARE MUST BE TAKEN WHEN RE-INSTALLING BOOTS ON PLUGS TO MAKE SURE THEY GO ON DEEP ENOUGH.

    If boots don't go on the plugs deep enough you will get excessive spark leak which will set the code and if severe enough it will result in rough running engine too.

    I have written about this a lot in this forum when I had to fix my new '04 Tahoe under warranty myself as the dealer would not. I learned alot and this was one of the details.

    I fixed my problem first by removing those heat shields to verify that the problem goes away without them and when this really fixed the problem I went and purchased a good set of racing spark plug wires that do not need the heat shields. I have not had any problems with this since I did this over a year ago.

    Before doing the racing wires I tried 2 sets of dealer GM wires and two sets of third party wires that all require using the heat shields. I did run without heat shields with all of them for some time and they all performed better without heat shields. As they are meant to be used with shields I then went to get wires that do not require use of them.

    --Arrie--
  • charliesubcharliesub Member Posts: 2
    I have exactly the same problem with my '99 sub. Can you tell me where the delay module is located and how do I replace it?
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Member Posts: 6
    i have the same problem change belt and tensioner 3 times mechanics tell me tensioner hits the mounting bolt . did you find the solution
  • hardwaregirlhardwaregirl Member Posts: 5
    I have an '03 Suburban with approximately 72,000 miles that we've had in the shop many times in the last year. Each episode is something different and costs more each time to fix than the last. The latest problem is that it will just shut down while I'm driving. Each time my speed is right at 40mph and the engine seems to be laboring and won't shift to the next gear. Then I lose all power including power steering. No lights on the dash light up except the battery light when the power dies. I coast to the side of the road and shut the key off, and it starts right back up with no warning lights or codes showing. I've taken it in for repair, but I keep getting told that they can't diagnose the problem with the computer diagnostic equipment unless the check engine light comes on or if they come out to the side of the road where I'm stranded. If anyone can suggest a fix for this, I'd be forever grateful. I am a die hard GM product buyer and love my Suburban but feel very disappointed by the quality level of the products that are being built.
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Member Posts: 6
    i had same problem replaced tensioner twice and belt from factory. used a 377k4 belt from auto zone and problem got fix. for now hope this solves your problem
  • fireoo7fireoo7 Member Posts: 6
    i had same problem cost me 250$ to replace ac freon problem did not go away . solution bought can of carburator cleaner and sprayed inside the throtle housing and cleaned with a rag the flaper area. and solved the problem
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Could it be crank shaft position sensor? It gets very hot as it is mounted in the side of the engine block by the fly wheel and gets soaked in hot oil. When it goes bad it messes up the engine ignition timing, which could explain power loss and ultimately engine stall. Then the sensor cools down as engine stops and you can start the engine right back up.

    Crankshaft position sensor is mounted behind starter motor at least in my '04 Tahoe where I would look for it in your Sub too if you were to change it by yourself. The starter must be removed first to get access to it.

    This sensor does not necessarily give a DTC when it starts reading wrong trigger point. It gives one when it fails all together.

    Just a thought.

    --Arrie--
  • hardwaregirlhardwaregirl Member Posts: 5
    Well, my husband changed the crankshaft position sensor, and that didn't do the trick. The problem has happened once a week for the last three weeks. Now it's happening once or twice a DAY. After he replaced the sensor today, it quit on his way home from work. The truck goes about 20 minutes or approximately 15 miles and then shuts off. Usually it starts right back up but is putting us in a hazardous situation with cars behind us or in the middle of an intersection when it is happening. Any other suggestions? He thinks I should take it to a Chevrolet dealership, but I'm scare of them overcharging me and still not fixing the problem.
  • comajoecomajoe Member Posts: 1
    hi! i've got a problem w/2003. three times now, on extended highway trips. using cruise control, after a few hours, try to accelerate with gas pedal and truck won't accelerate. feels like it's leaned out, or spark retarded. if i back off, keeps running. push it and it stalls. park it, restarts after 1-3 tries. good battery. no codes. anybody?
  • spkrguyspkrguy Member Posts: 1
    I was driving one day and had to slam on my breaks and then quickly accelerate to avoid getting rear ended but when i hit the gas the truck made a strange jerk and then the battery lite came on and also said to service the brake booster;But it would come on and then go off so i continued to drive it thinking it was electrical , it wasnt a day later that i heard a loud like squeeking sound coming from the engine i took it to the closest dealer and now they have to replace the water pump the A/C compressor ,compressor belt tensioner, and belts 2,880.00 to repair. so any one got any ideas on what series of events could lead to these kind of repairs? :( :confuse:
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    spkrguy said: i took it to the closest dealer and now they have to replace the water pump the A/C compressor ,compressor belt tensioner, and belts 2,880.00 to repair.
    ____________________________________________________________
    If I were you I would get a second opinion from another repair shop. I can't think of anything that would cause all that damage based on what you said happened.
  • v8fun4uv8fun4u Member Posts: 3
    My 150,000 mile, 97 sub would not start, and had the vehicle towed. the repair shop insatlled a new fuel pump. Drove it a few day all seemed well, then I seemed to lose power during heavy acceleration, like the exhaust was plugged or the trans was not working right. Ended up with a new trans. still does not work. unhooked the exhaust/new exhaust. still does not work. Dealer said needed a new distributor. Didn't help. Two dealers said it was the exhaust. Thats not it. Pressure reg in the intake did not help. Holds 65 psi when you turn on the key(not running) but when you turn the key off the psi goes to about 15 psi. Should the fuel pressure drop when you turn the key off? is ther a valve in the new pump that could be bad? There are no engine check lights on. Also starts slow.
  • redmaxxredmaxx Member Posts: 627
    I was rented an 07 Suburban LT this weekend and got to really put it through it's paces, lots of open highway and hilly driving. Loaded down with four people and a bunch of cargo, it handled pretty well, but, let's face it, it feels like a living room on wheels. :) The road can be felt and in the back seat it seems somewhat like jello. But not too bad. It is a truck after all. Steering feel is non-existant. Pickup is good, but you've got to get used to putting your foot into it, the throttle has a lot of resistance. Transmission is smooth, but you've really got to get on to the throttle to get it to downshift. Brakes are touchy. Displacement on demand is pretty good, but not seamless. On flat windy roads I could feel it lurch slightly when it switched between V4 and V8. Seats are downright painful. They feel like rocks for the first 1/2-1 hr of driving and lack lumbar support. Storage for the front is ample, but the back seat (middle really, we took out the third row) has only the seat backs, no door pockets or fold down center console. Interior plastics are slightly improved, since they now have decent texturing, but they are still mostly as hard as a rock with almost no soft-touch materials.
  • hardwaregirlhardwaregirl Member Posts: 5
    I also have an '03 with about 73,000 miles. We've been having trouble consistently for almost a year now, but it's been more chronic the last eight weeks. Actually the first incident was trouble with the gas gauge after two years (and after the warranty was up). Then I got a check engine code for the gas cap not being tight, but I know that wasn't right. We've done a throttle body wash and several other things that didn't help. We've had the speedometer replaced since it went haywire for no reason. We also had to have the catalytic converter replaced (luckily under warranty). Recently my husband changed the crankshaft position sensor thinking that was the problem by suggestion on this discussion and from a friend who had the same problem. It died on him thirty minutes after replacing it. The problem was that the truck would run approximately 30 minutes and then shut down after stopping at a light. It would always happen between second and third gear and around 40 mph. I finally took it to a local dealership last week, and they diagnosed the problem as being a bad fuel pump module. My husband was really surprised since he is a construction equipment mechanic and said he'd never had a fuel pump work intermittently. He said they usually work or don't work. I had been complaining to my husband that my fuel mileage was declining since last fall. After having the fuel pump changed, my fuel mileage is back where it should be, and so far the truck runs fine. Unfortunately that little episode cost $925 since the module itself was $487. The good news is that it's warranteed for life--parts and labor. My question to the service manager was why GM didn't warranty the original fuel pump for that long. Of course, he didn't have the answer. I'm pretty sure this isn't the end of our troubles with this truck, but it's good for now. We'd buy something else, but none of the competitors have a truck that drives and rides this comfortably. I'm scared of the '07 model year just because it has been redesigned, and I don't want to be a victim of all the bugs they may have to work out of it. So for now, I'll keep driving this one and hope that's the end of the repairs for now.
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