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Comments
it might just be the front end alignment, or a tie rod is worn and the brake pressure pulls the wheel slightly.
~tom
I have a 97, but I think it's the same for a 98
I tow a ~6500 lb boat with my 03 1500, 5.3L. So here's my 2 cents, it tows great on flats and mild to moderate inclines, steep grades really slow you down. Overall I am happy with its towing performance, and consider it a great overall package (best economy/ towing performance).
I previously had a 96 2500 Suburban with 7.4L. Both had 3.73 gears. The only time I miss the 7.4L is on steep, long grades. I get about 10-11 MPG towing with the 03, depending on speed, I got 7-8 MPG with the 96.
That said I wouldn't want to tow anything over 7000 lbs on a regular basis with a 1500 model.
If you are relly going to tow 9000 lbs, I'd get the 2500 with the 8.1L, you'll get 11-12 mpg empty, and 8 or so towing. Not a huge loss over the 13-16 empty in the 5.3L.
Thanks,
David :surprise:
I just sold a 7,000lb travel trailor and it pulled it with a hitch. That being said I just purchaced a 2004 Cardinal 31 bh Travel Trailor that will weigh in at9,000lb. Will probly go to a 4.10 rear end. If i were buying today I would look for a 8.1 for serious towing, but the 6.0 is pretty good. Towing with the 3/4 ton is much much better than the half ton, the supension is awesome. Enjoy
For over a year now I've had a very intermittent stalling problem. It actually doesn't stall but usually won't run over 500 rpm. It won't get better until I shut down and wait 15 min. or so. I now know to stop and bang on the bottom of the tank and it will always go fine. Yesterday I had the problem and didn't shut down, just banged on the tank. It wouldn't do better than a rough idle even trying that twice. I had to actually shut off the engine. My 75 year old mechanic Dad told me he's had a similar problem with his truck and thinks that the pump sucks debris onto the screen in the tank. When the engine is off, the debris drops off and drops off faster if one shakes the tank by banging it.
Just changing the pump wouldn't help, you would have to totally clean out the tank. I think I accidentally put dirt into mine when I transferred fuel from my boat into it.
Just changing the pump wouldn't help, you would have to totally clean out the tank.
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I had this happen years ago on a '68 Dodge Charger. I got a tank full of bad gas with water in it. I would be rolling down the road and the engine would quit. After 15 or 20 minutes it would start again and run for perhaps 30 minutes then stop again. The water in the tank turns into a jelly-like glob and that mess would get sucked into the filter and stop the good gas from entering. The solution was to take the gas tank off the car and totally clean and rinse it out. Also you may have to clean out the lines to your fuel injection system. I did that, no more problem.
1) Is this a common issue? (I searched and found no other posts containing "freeze plug")
2) Where is it? I'd like to inspect it for myself, although I'm not the most mechanically inclined person I know. What does it look like? Rubber, plastic, or metal?
3) Is this expensive to replace? Or difficult to do on my own?
5) Recommend using some sort of stop leak fluid?
Thanks for any responses!
Andrew
Ft. Worth, TX
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If the freeze plug is leaking you should find coolant on the vehicle frame and/or engine block...and there should be some coolant on the garage floor. This should be a pretty easy replacement for a qualified mechanic.
If the initial estimate they give you is higher than what you think you can get a 'good' replacement for....then you might want to go the replacement route (but you may be getting some other problem as well).
thanks adam
Only after you are completely satisfied that the vehicle was mechanically and electrically sound, and you didn't have any other mandatory repairs that you needed to do, should you consider putting money into discretionary upgrades. None of the 'upgrades' you do, will you get any money back for them when you sell the vehicle.
I live in an urban area and wanted to install an alarm system and a back-up signal. What would you suggest???
gracye
I used to have a 96 which I kept outside about half it's life, and used to have to spray a little wd-40 into the unused locks (passenger and back barndoor), as they wouldn't unlock if I didn't. Got to be a regular maintenance item about twice a year or so.
I have inquired into an aftermarket back up sensor a year or so ago, and have seen some that are part of the license plate mount. They appear like that might be an easy way to mount the sensors, but I suspect any aftermarket kit isn't as good as factory installed.
Having factory sensors on two of my current vehicles, they work well...but not really anything that you can't already do with mirrors.
Had a 96, that lost R and 2 about a year or so ago, which were on the same shaft (about $1700 ballpark fix, if I remember correctly) .
Don't drive around on it, have it towed to a transmission shop if you expect to keep the vehicle. If something broke, you'll have metal pieces loose, and you don't want them moving around and ruining any of the other gears.
I was careful not to leave anything plugged in over the weekend and it started fine Sunday morning so I went to run errands. After shutting it off at the first stop I was unable to start it again. I left it at the store and came back 12 hours later. Again it wouldn't start so I called a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived 20 minutes later, it started right up.
What would intermittently prevent the Suburban from completing the ignition and start up? Perhaps a fuel filter??
Thanks!!
Has anyone had a similar problem with an 07 Suburban or Tahoe? Any suggestions what else might be the problem?