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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • luvmysuburbanluvmysuburban Member Posts: 24
    It almost sound like something in the ignition circuit (possibly a loose wire) or the starter itself. I too have a 2000 burb and had probs with mine not starting, but it was written off to my remote start "burned up" the ignition system. (Personally, i don't think it was what did it, but when you have a 4300 lb paperweight sitting at the GM dealer, sometimes it's best to nod your head and ask them to get you back on the road!) One thing you can try, at least we used to be able to do it with our old high school vehicles, is take a hammer and tap on the starter underneath the vehicle to see if it magically starts. This may be a way to troubleshoot the starter/circuit issue. Good Luck! :shades:
  • sboorsesboorse Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 1993 chevy burb. The dome lights do not work. The lights under the hood, the dash lights, and the door lights that light up the window buttons work also. I have checked the fuses, and they all seem to be fine. I do not want to go to a dealer or a mechanic. I want to fix myself. Can anyone help me. Also, on a side note, when I drive the burb, she runs great and drives great. The thing is is that when I go to stop the rear end makes a noise like something is loose. What could that be. I would appreciate any help possible.
  • sboorsesboorse Member Posts: 2
    I have a 3 suburban i just bought. All the gauges worked well, and read normal. Today I went and sprayed out the engine compartment because of all the dust from living in the mojave desert. Now my gas gauge is not reading right, my mph speedometer bounces like crazy, and when i am in park and hit the electric door lock button, my speedometer jumps also, and my headlights flicker. Anyone got any solutions to fix this problem. HELP ME!!! :mad: :confuse:
  • wayneh454wayneh454 Member Posts: 1
    replaced the rotors, calipers and pads and still pulls to the left.
    when i jack it up and test the wheels they both seem to lock at
    the same time and they release just fine when letting off the peddle.
    the only things left to change would be the rubber hoses and the valve
    any help would be great? I need to add that this all started after a panic
    stop while pulling a loaded car trailer.
  • unburbanunburban Member Posts: 3
    it's the rubber hose from the frame to the caliper. it deteriorates on the inside. replace both.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    sboorse said: Today I went and sprayed out the engine compartment because of all the dust from living in the mojave desert. Now my gas gauge is not reading right, my mph speedometer bounces like crazy, and when i am in park and hit the electric door lock button, my speedometer jumps also, and my headlights flicker.
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Sounds to me like you have water in some parts of the electrical system that controls the above-mentioned functions. Get an air hose and blow out the entire engine compartment and around all the electrical boxes, connections, etc. If that doesn't do it you should head for a competent auto electrical shop and have them check it out.
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    it sounds like you have a loose terminal problem....it must have came lose when you tried to jump the vehicle. make sure you tighten the screws on the clamp real good with a small wrench or key. good luck
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    try this !!! check your battery terminals. make sure both clamps are connected to the terminal really tight. use a small wrench to tighten it and make sure there are no crystalline buildup. good luck
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    get a volt meter and test to see if the line to the fuse is live or not. check your rear brakes and all the parts around the wheel hubs.
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    check the idler arm or the ball joint. this could affect steering alot. especially when you pull a load, there is tounge weigh which lift up the frontend....hence it put alot of wear and tear on the steering mechanisms and that can cause uneven steering. good luck
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    you need to bring it in to an oil change outfit. for around $89 they will perform a fluid exchange from a 100 gallon container while the engine is running and the transmission is in park position. This is the only way to flush out transmission fluid in the torque converter. good luck.
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    check your alternator....it may be not putting out the correct voltage. when you are in the city the engine rpm is very low. with a faulty alternator, you might not have enough juice to your fan blower. worth a try. good luck
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    try to replace fuel filter or fuel pump.....it may be weak. when you go at higher speed, it require the fuel pump to work harder. i am guessing too!!!
  • hungdtranhungdtran Member Posts: 8
    it will fit but you don't want to put bigger tires without any lifting....you don't want the tires to rub the wheel housing if you have a heavy load. good luck
  • unburbanunburban Member Posts: 3
    both door switches went out on my 94
  • pixiessuburbanpixiessuburban Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks! New here... what kind of gas mileage are other 95 Suburban's getting out there? I have a 3/4 ton 4x4 and we live at mile about sea level. I am getting 8 miles to the gallon at best! I do have a little bit bigger tire than stock... Kinda in shock as I just gave up a 16 m/gal 4Runner. My husband's friend says I am getting about right. Husband has already checked the fuel injectors and we are gonna throw on a K&N Filter. Any suggestions out there?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You should have a look at Chevrolet Suburban and GMC Tahoe MPG - Real World Numbers.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • wvburbwvburb Member Posts: 2
    Please, please let me know if you figure this one out. I have a 2002 Suburban with the 8.1 liter engine that just started doing the exact same thing. No engine codes or nothing. I have been bleeding the fuel line before every start by using the little tire valve type bleeder on top of the fuel rail but now realize that probably isn't doing anything more than just the mere passage of time. This is an extremely aggravating problem as it is the wife's vehicle and she is not well equipped for getting stranded. Any help solving this one may actually help many of us.
  • cheesehead2cheesehead2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '94 with the big block and I only get maybe 8 to 10 mpg. I have an open flow K&N, Doug Thorley headers and a custom dual exhaust. Added a little horse power but not much in milage. May want to try the 6 pack computer module (I think Jet Performance makes it) that will let you dial to economy settings when on a long trip to save a little.
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    Have U tried hitting the bottom of the fuel tank? Have U tried using ether? Is there spark when it's trying to start? How full was your tank? Used drygas?
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    I get 12 to 16 mpg with a 1/2 ton 03 4x4. You might check your vacuum lines for leaks. That could alter the advance timing and cut your economy. It's also possible that you have a restriction in the exhaust that cutting power. See if there's a pressure buildup compared to other vehicles. Your cat. converter could be clogged.
  • mudratmudrat Member Posts: 3
    First, check to make sure you have good vacuum. Next, I had a problem with the selecter vent just inside the firewall from the blower. The vent deflector is made of fiber and the control is metal with rivets. The rivets pulled thru and the vent would not shut completely. This left air flow where it wasn't selected for. I made a tin clip to fit over the top of the vent and riveted it on. Also, the ductwork going up to the defroster is a poor design and leaks air the whole way around at the connector. This was the same on every Suburban I checked. You have to wrap the ductwork with a sealer tape. Hope this helps.
  • jbran95jbran95 Member Posts: 10
    I also have a 2001 3/4 ton Sub. with the 8.1L and I do have the same intermittent starting problem. It seems to be a fuel delivery problem, if you use ether it will usually start and run fine. In my case I know it's not the fuel pump, filter or in any of the lines, it seems to be the computer control for the injectors. For what ever reason, it doesn't seem to get enough fuel to start (or possibly start for 1/2 a second & die). I did change the throttle body for another reason and the problem dissapeared for about 1yr. then it came back. It could have something to do with that.
  • jbran95jbran95 Member Posts: 10
    again I have an '01 3/4 ton 8.1L it has a clunk in the front end when you take off, let of the gas quickly or hit a bump the right way. I replaced the intermediate shaft & the ball joints, checked the steering linkages even the pitman arm & idler arm. I am @ my witts end, please help me!
  • rustyk1rustyk1 Member Posts: 4
    Freeze plugs are located in the engine block below the heads, they are round metal cup-like plugs. If cracked(I've never seen this, more likely dislodged) you will see fluid on the floor of your garage. not hard to replace, but might be hard to access. to replace. use a long punch and hammer. tap in one side of plug, when it is knocked in grab the edge with pliers and pull it out. to replace, line it up and tap in with hammer until flush with block. they also make rubber center ones that slip in and tighten with a bolt that is in the rubber
    . hope this helps
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    Hello. I am shopping for an 04-06 Yukon XL/Suburban, 1/2 ton 5.3 with SLT/LT package. Part of the reason for the purchase will be to tow a travel trailer, so I want to make sure I buy something with the necessary hardware for towing. Does anyone know if there was a "tow package" for trucks in these years, and if so, what parts did it add (trans. cooler, class IV hitch, trailer brake pre-wiring, 3.73 or 4.10 gears, ect). What is the "trailering preparation package", which the trucks I drove (05 'Burb, '05 YXL, '04 YXL) appear to have (I have noticed that every truck I have looked at had a receiver w/ 7-pin harness, but I have not remembered to look for a transmission cooler.)

    Of course, the salesmen are little or no help in answering these questions, and just "assure" me that it will do the trick, so I though I'd ask you all.

    Thanks in advance.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    tsf7 said: Does anyone know if there was a "tow package" for trucks in these years, and if so, what parts did it add (trans. cooler, class IV hitch, trailer brake pre-wiring, 3.73 or 4.10 gears, ect).
    ____________________________________________________________________
    I have an '06 Chev Suburban LS with the 5.3 engine and 4 x 4. Here's what came standard: Smart Select Package, includes (AJ7) Air bags, side-impact, (PDC) Cargo Package, (G80) Differential, locking rear axle and (Z82) Trailering equipment, heavy-duty, includes trailering hitch platform, 7-lead wiring connector, auxiliary transmission oil cooler and trailer brake pre-wire harness.
    This equipment is standard on all LS 4 x 4 models, not sure about 2 x 4. I have the 3.42 rear end gears. For serious trailering you should probably opt for the 3.73 gears that are available in the 1500 series (1/2 ton). I think you might even be able to get 4.10 gears in the 2500 series (3/4 ton). The 2500 series also offers a bigger engine.
  • flyb412flyb412 Member Posts: 4
    Fuel is seeping up through/around the purge valve cap. I've replaced the valve, cleaned the unit, to no avail. Can I replace it with a newer version filter/separator unit? Any suggestions/advice will be greatly appreciated!
  • gracyegracye Member Posts: 6
    I have a 94' burb and need to know how to set the clock since time has changed and I need to know how to program the radio (set stations) My burb has original equipment.

    Thanks for your help.

    gracye
  • jbran95jbran95 Member Posts: 10
    I just got my truck back from the dealer and it seems that there is an electronic module that puts out 5V DC to start the engine but then the voltage should change after starting. On my Sub. it didn't change causing it to start and immediatly stall. They told me it was due to the remote car starter but it seems that the unit can also be defective as they replaced mine.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
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  • roseburke1roseburke1 Member Posts: 2
    As I have stated, I have a 99 (gas)GMC Suburban that for awhile when pulling hills with exceleration the check engine light would come on. After awhile the light would go out. Well about a week ago, as usual, I let my Veh sit running for quite awhile while I shopped. When I came out I turned it off to put my wheelchair on the lift on the rear of my Veh and then started it up again. All appeared fine. I proceeded to pull about 5oo ft away to a grassy spot to let mt service dog out to tinkle and shut my Veh off. When I went to start it up, it would only turn over. :confuse: The battery is fine. The fuses are fine. All have been checked. :( It has been suggested that it is the fuel pump. Does anyone have any thoughts on this. BTW, I do have a keychain door lock/security link. Could this have anything to do with this? Someone said that it might have locked up. :sick:
    Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    ramblin rose
  • ker1ker1 Member Posts: 7
    I have an intermittent noise like a whine coming from my distributor I
    believe. The best way to describe it is it sounds like the sound of a
    failing old mechanical speedometer - kind of a buzz/whine. I checked
    the play in the distributor shaft today as I was cleaning the rotor &
    there was very little - a little bit up/down (~1/8") & hardly any
    noticable side to side. This comes & goes & I can't find a common
    thread of ambient temp or engine temp or anything else. It's been
    going on now for almost a year but I have this fear of it failing &
    stranding me. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    I am shopping for an 04-06 Sub/YXL. Of course, the daily use for the truck will be driving to work (only 5 miles one-way, no freeway driving) and family outings on the weekend. However, a key reason for the purchase is to tow a yet-to-be-purchased travel trailer (probably 24-27 ft, 4000-5500 lbs). We live in Utah, so we will be in mountains practically every time we take the trailer out. I anticipate 2 long trips to Oregon/No. California each year with the trailer (lots of long hills!), plus camping trips on the weekends (climbing up Parley's Canyon toward the Unitas most of the time -- going from 4300 ft to 8500 ft in about 10 miles).

    I have found a couple decent trucks with everything I want, but they have the 3.42 gears. The 4.10's seem to be less common in the LT/SLT packages -- I have found them in only one out of the 10 or so '05 and '06 LT/SLT equipped trucks I have looked at so far.

    So my question is, is it worth it to get the 4.10's? My theory is 4.10s will improve towing gas mileage and decrease strain on the drive train, making it worth the trade-off on non-towing mileage and the extra difficulty of finding exactly the right rig. Does anyone have experience w/ 3.42 vs. 4.10s with the 5.3 engine (any full-size GM will probably do) who can give some practical advice as to how much better towing is with the 4.10 gears? Or how much worse non-towing mileage is?

    Thanks in advance!
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    tsf7 said: I have found a couple decent trucks with everything I want, but they have the 3.42 gears. The 4.10's seem to be less common in the LT/SLT packages
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Most people buying Suburbans these days are not towing anything....they are cruisin' around town hauling kids to soccer matches and hauling groceries. If you are going to tow you will be much happier with the 4.10 gears. The 5.3 engine does not have near the torque that the older 5.7 engines had. And the 04 to 06 transmissions are not nearly as heavy duty as the old TH-350 and TH-400 models.
    There probably won't be much difference in your gas mileage with either the 3.42 or 4.10 gear....if you are towing a 5,000 pound trailer your gas mileage will be low...and that is to be expected. But with the 4.10 gears at least you will have more towing power and you will be putting less strain on the engine and drive train.
  • elwinkeepelwinkeep Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 suburban brake pedal drops to the floor automatically when I turn the steering wheel. It's a 3/4 ton with 454 motor. The power steering pump is hooked up to the brakes too so I guess it's where the power assist comes from so I'm wondering if I have a failure of a valve somewhere in the master cylinder or the hydraulic booster that sends fluid to the master cylinder when the steering is actually "calling" for the fluid. If any one else had this kind of brake problem on their 96 or similar suburban, I would love to hear if their is a solution :sick: :confuse:
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    I purchased an '04 Suburban LT this weekend (70k miles, paid $17,500). Ended up having everything I was looking for, including 4.10 gears. Black w/ gray interior. We "got" to take it for a 120 mile round trip to grandma's yesterday, and I really couldn't be happier -- so smooth, comfortable, powerful, and (relatively) fuel efficient. I wont miss that Dodge Durango! The Sub is better in virtually every way.

    My one complaint is the black paint on the radio power button and a couple other buttons is coming off, exposing the white surface underneath -- the only blemish on the otherwise spotless interior. Has anyone encountered an easy fix for this? I know must be a common problem, as about half the Subs I test drove were beginning to lose paint on the radio, especially the power knob.

    Thanks in advance, and I look forward to being a contributor to this forum rather than just a question-asker in the very near future!
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    tsf7 said: My one complaint is the black paint on the radio power button and a couple other buttons is coming off,
    _____________________________________________________________________
    I have an '06 Suburban and the radio power button appears to be replaceable. Maybe you could just get new buttons at your GM dealer and install them yourself.
  • rem965rem965 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 91 sub 4x4 1500 . the speedometer went dead. i put a new senser in tranny and put a nother speedometer in did not help? HELP??? :sick:
  • roseburke1roseburke1 Member Posts: 2
    IT DOESN'T COME BACK BECAUSE THE BELT HAS HAD A CHANCE TO WARM UP AND STRETCH OUT SO IT IS NOT AS TIGHT AND THE RUBBER IS SOFTER AND THERE ISN'T AS MUCH FRICTION WHERE THE BELTS TOUCH ANYTHING LIKE THE WATER PUMP OR STARTER OR FLYWHEEL OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT. I THINK YOU SHOULD GO TO YOUR NEAREST AUTO PARTS STORE AND EXPLAIN WHAT IS GOING ON AND ASK FOR A SPRAY CAN OF SOMETHING TO QUIET THE SQUEAKING. THEY WILL KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT AS WELL AS WHERE THE MOST LIKELY SPOTS YOU WILL NEED TO SPRAY. HOPE THIS HELPS.
  • slimhallslimhall Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2005 Suburban with the Navigation Radio in it. The problem seems to be that when the navigation DVD Rom is in the radio I cannot play cds. Is there a GM cd changer that I can get for this Suburban that will work with the Navigation radio? I see a few unused spaces just below the middle of the dash where it seems made for mounting something like that. Also, is there an AUX type of outlet on this radio for MP3 players?

    One more item, a few of the buttons on the navigation radio have some of the paint chipped off or worn off. Is there a recommended fix for this? I don't suppose they have new buttons available or touch up paint, do they?

    Thanks for the help in advance!

    Slim
  • grandslamgrandslam Member Posts: 1
    When I turn my light selector switch to the headlight position my headlights go out even when cycle my hi / lo beam switch. Still no headlights. My DRL or daytime running lights will work when the light selector switch is in the off position or parking light position, Which I think is how they are supposed to work. Has anyone had this problem or can anyone tell me what to do next. I have replaced the light selector switch and that changed nothing except made me about fifty bucks lighter in my wallet. Help please.
  • 97dm97dm Member Posts: 1
    Have a problem w/the wipers they operate on fast or not at all sometimes. Other times they operate normally on timed sequence or on low speed. The other primary electrical problem is the 20 amp fuse for the interior lights, etc will not hold a fuse without blowing the fuse as soon as it is replaced with a new one. Have installed 4+ starters, 4+ batteries, and continue to have electrical problems. Any suggestions? Did the dealer recall for the bad mirror switch. My 97 is great except for the fuse / wiper problems. 127K miles, I'm the 2nd owner. A NJ livery service had it before me new until 2001.
  • jntjnt Member Posts: 316
    Your owner manual should have that info.

    jt
  • jntjnt Member Posts: 316
    Dealer do not sell buttons of radio. They do sell the whole radio. The cheapest way to cover these spots is probably to touch them up yourself since it costs hundreds of dollars for new or used radios

    jt
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Lots of people buy used 'burbans and don't have owner's manuals.

    Chevy owners are pretty lucky - GM lets you sign up to mygmlink.com and download owner's manuals back to 1993.

    Most manufacturers only go back a few years, and some don't offer any help at all.

    How To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    97 suburban's had a problem with the printed circuit board inside the wiper motor. I don't remember whether it's a bad solder joint, or exactly what the problem was. I replaced my whole motor unit, before I heard about a general manufacturing problem. There may have even been a TSB if it failed during warranty period. Standard replaceable unit, should be able to pick them up at any auto parts chain.

    Had my 97 for 10 years, never a starter problem. Normal 4-5 year battery replacement cycle. Did have two alternators go casters up during the vehicle owenrship period.

    Not exactly sure which fuse you are indicating is blowing, but if it is the 20A CTSY in fuse#3, that powers the courtesty lamps, cargo lamp, i/p compartment lamp, dome/reading lamps, vanity mirrors, and power mirrors. If you just had the recall done on the mirrors, they might have messed something up on that circuit in the drivers door.
  • haiiihaiii Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 96, I am also 50 bucks lighter, any responses or fixes that you have found?? My driving lights worked for a while but now all I have is parking lights. The buzzer module that goes off when you open the door was malfuctioning (going off while driving) and I thought maybe that could somehow be connected as that is when the headlights quit all together. Anyone have any answers or ideas???? Inquiring minds want to know. :)
  • squeezysqueezy Member Posts: 2
    have you found the problem?
    I am going thru the same thing.
  • squeezysqueezy Member Posts: 2
    I am having trouble. Everytime I press on the brakes the fuse blows. Has anyone had this problem?
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