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Chevy Suburban



  • mudratmudrat Posts: 3
    I had almost the same problem minus the RPM change. Check under the dash. The ductwork in the center, above the hump, does not match up very well. I took wide seal tape and wrapped the opening. Also, rust right of the hump, a cable comes down to a fin that directs all the air. A clip on mine broke. The deflector did not close completely. Vacuum does control the deflector. So motor vacuum might be part of the problem.
  • I have a 1990 Suburban as I'm sure you can tell by my name. I have had it for a long time and when I got it everything worked fine. Recently the A/C and heater started acting up. They both work if your touching the vent but the fan that blows the hot and cold air out just doesn't work. Is this a common problem? Is it an easy fix? Any ideas for me? Please help me out here.
    Thanks for you time, Eric
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check the fan resistor bank, it's in the air ductwork under the dash, on the passenger side, by the blower motor. The fan resistor is used to allow the 12volt dc motor to have multiple speeds, and run slower than the full 12volts. The output of the fan squirrel cage typically blows right across the reistors to keep them cool.

    Follow the wires from the fan motor, they will plug into the resistor bank.
  • It is probly just a bad fan motor. Easy fix under the dash on the right side by the passanger side. Three nuts and remove from housing and order new one put back in. Unsually comes with the squirrel cage if not remove off old moter and install.
  • The problem I'm having, it will start sometimes and at other times it will not turn over at all. The battery and cables are good. The dash has all of its lights. With the head lights turned on while I try to start it, don't even dim. I have changed out the safety neu. switch at the tranny (advice from a friend), it help so I thought for about a month. Today I went out to start it and its back to the same old problem, turn the key and nothing happens. What do I need to do to fix it. I'm pretty good at turning a wrench. Thanks for you help. Tony
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    May be a solenoid/starter problem.

    To avoid just throwing parts at this problem, I would hang a fused test lead off of the starter solenoid (the power coming from ignition switch), to see if the solenoid is being told to engage.

    If you are experiencing the problem, and you turn the ignition switch and see power going to the solenoid, and the solenoid doesn't engage and turn the engine...then you've proved it's a solenoid/starter problem.

    If on the other hand, you have no power being supplied, then you know the problem is 'upstream' of the starter, for instance possibly the ignition switch itself.
  • i have a 1990 suburban for some reason wind i start it she is burning rich, even after warm up it still burning rich you can see black smoke coming out tail pipe, did a complet tuneup, replaced my distrbutor, installed new exhaust system needed it, map sensor, check the timing an still burning rich, if any one out there had this problem happen to them may be can help me with this. :sick:
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Did you replace O2 sensors?

  • yes i replaced o2 sensor, an the cat is new. :sick:
  • mudratmudrat Posts: 3
    I have a '89 GMC Sub. , 350ci, 4in. Skyjacker lift, 4.10s front and back. 12 bolt in back and 10 bolt in front. The lift, the gears and the axles have been under the truck for almost 35k miles. Detroit locker in rear. At least it did. It just blew out. The entire axle casing is shot. It blew out thru the cover and the bottom of the housing. Looks like the locker blew apart. It was not under pressure or off-roading. Just got inspected and going for a test drive. BANG. What rear axle will fit and what will be strong. I do a fair amount of off-roading, but not serious. I also plow snow. Since I'm going to replace the whole axle, what should I use?
  • My 96 GMC C1500 2WD Suburban is doing weird things. It has 200,700 miles on it and a dual system climate control. The front AC works fine but the heater does not work (it just blows air). In the back the heater works but the AC does not. This is what I have checked so far in front. Both accurate work, but I don't know if the actual blender damper is working. I have check the fuses, electrical connections, vacuum connection, and water leaks and they all seem to be OK. I think it might be the heater control valve but I'm not sure so, I thought I would ask if anyone else has had this problem before I start throwing money at it. Any thoughts?
  • by chance did you check to see if you may have a blockage somewhere from water pump heater connection to heater core an sometimes the core can be block to from old coolant, it brakes down in to a solid, had this happen to me. and you have to check both suppy and return hoses for this and if none of these then last thing i say is one of your vaccum doors under dash vent system is not working.and for my problem for all the people out there who have 90 subarbans check wireing main harness i back of engine they have some wires with a tape around the connections that wheres away with time that is one of reasons your engine my run like its out of time or you my be burning rich from to much fuel.
  • Thanks for responding. I have decided to treat each of these problems as an independent issue. I agree that one of the dampers is not working correctly. I plan to flush the front heater core tomorrow. Why I'm at it I'm going to put an ohm meter on some of the suspicious electrical connection. I'll report my findings as soon as I can.
  • Picked up a clean 2000 Suburban two months ago; 88,000 miles, all is well so far except the interior dome lights will not work. Tried playing around with the "Dome Override" switch with no success. Outside courtesy lights below the sideview mirrors work fine. Checked the bulbs, they are good. Anyone with ideas on this problem?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Our 2005 GMC Yukon XL is drifting to the right. New tires (Goodyear something-or-other from Wal-Mart), about 1500 miles on them, not showing any uneven wear. All tire pressures are good. Had an alignment done last weekend and they did a small toe adjustment to both front tires to bring it back to mfr. specs. That has helped some, but not completely solved it. The steering wheel must be held about 10 degrees to the left to keep it going straight. What should I check next? Do you suppose having the tires balanced and rotated would help?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    check that the bulb isn't burnt out. Put a voltmeter on the contacts, to see if you have 13 volts on the bulb base.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That's an alignment problem.....take it back for re-alignment
  • I would like for someone to tell me the steps in removing and replacing the
    fuel filter on the 2000 Suburban


  • From memory: It's underneath the car, between the driver's and middle seat positions (left side of the car). The connections are compression tube fittings, so I used a 3 sided open end tube wrench. The manual suggests that you relive the pressure in the EFI system first using a special fitting which connects to the system. I always put a rag under the filter when I loosen the first nut. There are 2 small compression washers, one for each fitting, that require replacement with the filter. The filter itself is held in place with a ring bracket loosend with a single bolt. It's pretty simple and quick.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Will do. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm surprised to hear that because they even gave me a print out that showed the adjustments they made. Unfortunately this shop isn't open on weekends (Christian Brothers, not sure if that chain is around where you are). I just happened to be off last Friday, not sure when I'll get another chance to take it back. I could send my wife, but it's something I'd rather handle myself.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well you could have a worn suspension part, like a ball joint going bad (had that problem myself on my old 97 Suburban). They align it on the rack, drive it off, the balljoint shifts, moves out of alignment.

    If they get it back in, and see that it's out of alignment, they'll check for worn parts (they should have checked before doing the first alignment). You either have a worn part, they didn't tighten something up the last time, or they didn't get it adjusted right the last time.

    There's a lot of weight on those balljoints.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    A buddy suggested something related to suspension. I "inspected" the tie rods, if you can call it that. Attempted to wiggle them naually and felt no play at all. Of course I expect it to be a little more sophisticated than that to diagnose! Are there any other symptoms might you expect with the ball joint problem? I haven't noticed any suspension noise or harshness. Estimated repair/replacement cost for a ball joint?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hmmm....I just recently threw out all the old receipts since I no longer have that vehicle, so I don't know the costs.

    "IF" the ball joint is your problem.....Just purely guessing, I would think a ball joint is around 30-40 bucks a piece, and at least an hour of labor a piece. They put on spring compressors, and un bolt and disconnect the hub from the ball joint. Then use a ball joint tool which presses the old ball joint from the lower A frame. They then press in the new ball joint, and reassemble the hub. Take off the spring compressors, put the wheels back on, and then have to re-align the vehicle again.

    Sometimes a ball joint will squeak when it is worn.
  • if you still have this problem take a look at your front brake lines, i had the same problem but mine pull to left your brake can collapse on inside of lines wind you use your brakes and take hard look at your callipers one of them could be slow in movment wind braking. :confuse:
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    A question about the drifting:

    You say that "The steering wheel must be held about 10 degrees to the left to keep it going straight."

    Do you actually have to hold it to the left or would the car go straight but steering wheel would position itself 10 degrees left if you take your hands off of the steering wheel?

    If you actually have to force the steering wheel to 10 degrees left to keep car going straight you definitely have alignment problem and it could be caused by worn out ball joints etc. (I assume the problem occurs on flat unworn road surface. Be careful when diagnosing the problem because so many road surfaces are "round" which causes your car to want to drift off of the road, i.e. when driving on right side lane you need to steer slightly to left. Also, if the road is worn to the "grooves" it makes car steer left or right depending on which "wall" of the groove you are driving on. But let's assume you have this problem when driving on perfectly flat pavement.)

    If you do not have to force to keep the steering wheel to the 10 degree left position when car goes straight the problem is not alignment problem between the 4 wheels. A fact telling for this is that you do not see any kind of uneven wear on tires. It is alignment problem between steering wheel position and front wheel turning position, i.e. they did not center the steering wheel properly when setting the front toe.

    When I have my car aligned I always check for the steering wheel position myself when alignment is done because almost every time I had alignment done and I didn't check for this the steering wheel positioned itself slightly left or right. This is the reason why I always have alignment done in a small shop where I can get to the car when alignment is done and can check for the steering wheel position.

    I have a 2004 Tahoe, which I believe is identical for front suspension compared to your Yukon. I had a problem with inside wear of front tires and had alignment checked by the dealer and they said it is inside GM specification. I installed new different brand tires and they wore and cupped inside edge too.

    I then had alignment done at a small shop where they said it is inside GM spec too but I asked them to close toe to the minimum limit of the spec. This fixed the front tire wear problem. With my 3rd set of tires now I have about 18 000 miles and no sign of any kind of uneven tire wear.

    I drive a lot of highway, i.e. fast speed and closing toe helps because I believe fast speed induced down force pulls car down and causes front suspension to open the toe slightly so closing it a little bit helps in my situation.

    If your tires do not show any uneven wear (which might take more than 1500 miles to show up) and you do not need to fight to keep car going straight but steering wheel positions itself to 10 degree left position it most likely means that your problem is just that when they adjusted the toe they had the steering wheel in that 10 degree left position. This could also be why they had to adjust toe on both sides as usually only one of them needs adjustment (but not always).

    In case your car goes straight without "fighting" the steering wheel but with the steering wheel in that 10 degree left position I would suggest you do following:

    1.Jack front tires up. One side at the time should work but both sides up at the same time is better.
    2. Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly in position.
    3. Try to move the wheels in any possible direction to find out if there are any looseness in joints. You really have to jack the wheels off of the ground to do this correctly. Weight of the car on the wheel does not allow feeling all small looseness by hand.

    If you do not find any looseness in either wheel you can go back to your alignment shop and tell them that they did not position steering wheel correctly when they set the toe.

    If you have to fight the steering wheel while going straight you definitely do have alignment problem and if this is without having worn joints then the alignment was done all the way wrong.

    However, if you would find worn joints then you should go back to the alignment shop and tell them about it and question them for not finding that. In every alignment shop that I had my car serviced they ALWAYS tested for worn joints because they know alignment is wasted if they do it and it does not work due to worn joints. Any alignment shop should not do alignment with worn joints.

    If they indeed did alignment with worn joints they should refund for it, but they will not. You could get them to do alignment as warranty service if you have worn joints and that same shop would change those parts for you.

    If you go back to the same shop be careful that they suddenly do not find all kinds of loose parts to cover up their mistake. That is why I would very carefully check for looseness by jacking the car up on each side.

    For changing the joints it should not be very difficult. I have not done it for my Tahoe as I have not needed it yet. One of the posts for you suggested that the spring must be compressed. Your Yukon does not have a coil spring in front if it is the same construction as my Tahoe, like I believe it is. It has a torsion bar as a spring. When you jack the car up to get wheel off of the ground there is not much spring force left on suspension and if there is any I believe it can be relieved by the adjustment screw in the back end of the bar.

    The best way to do this is the same as how they do it at the shop, i.e. jack both front wheels off of the ground. For this you need jack stands on both sides to keep both wheels of the ground at the same time. This is important because of the sway bar. If one side is on ground it causes the sway bar transfer force to the other side and that suspension then is not completely force free.

    Anyway, you do not want to take any joints loose with any spring or sway bar force induced in the wheel suspension. You would not be able to put it back together if you did and could hurt yourself in the process. I believe though that when the front wheels are off of the ground at the same time there is no force induced on the suspension from either torsion bar spring or the sway bar.

  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    To clarify, the steering wheel must be held to the left. It wants to rest in the "correct" position, and then drift right. It's somewhat better now than it was before that last alignment, but it's not completely gone. Happens on any road surface, I've been very careful to make sure it's not just do to the particular road I first noticed it on.

    I'll try getting it on jack stands and checking for looseness. Then I'll take it back where they did the alignment and ask them to check the ball joints and alignment again. Wish I could find the dang receipt, but I'm sure they won't give me a hard time as it was only one week ago today.

    Thanks to everyone for taking the time to respond, I really do appreciate it. I'll keep you posted.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Long story short - alignment is fine, tires balanced and rotated and problem solved.

    Short story long - I went back to the shop that did the alignment, and they put it up on the rack and confirmed that the suspension and balls joints were in good condition, and that the alignment was still exactly to spec as adjusted 10 days ago. The mechanic took it for a spin and agreed it was pulling to the right, so they cross-rotated the tires (switched RF with LF and RR with LR), and it was pulling a bit to the left (although not as strongly as it had been pulling to the right). The diagnosis was "radial pull", which apparently means an inherent problem with the tire. They didn't charge me anything and suggested I go to the tire shop. So I did that, and they seemed skeptical but agreed to look at everything. They didn't notice any problems with the tires themselves, but he did say that front left wheel/tire was out of balance. So he re-balanced it and asked me to drive around for a while and stop back by to let him know if it seemed any better. I did so, and it seems perfectly normal now. Tracks very straight.

    So I guess the problem is solved. I'll keep paying close attention to it and see if anything changes, but pretty happy for now. I really wanted this corrected before we took a trip that we have planned for mid December towing a travel trailer.

    Thanks again to all for all your assistance. Because I sounded like I knew what I was talking about, I was taken seriously and given good service at both shops today.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Great to hear it tracks straight now!

    And it is probably even better for you to know that the shop who did and re-checked the alignment is a good shop to go back to as they re-checked it for free. And they rotated tires and all for no cost for you. They obviously want your business and so far what you told us they might even deserve it.

    Some shops do not re-check alignment and if they do and find it being correct they would charge for it again.

    Happy Trails!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like your key switch (in the steering column) has gone bad.

    You might try typing without your CAPSLOCK on, it makes it easier for everyone to read.
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