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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • cdhpc2cdhpc2 Member Posts: 4
    The fuel filter is clamped to the frame on the driver's side about midway (silver canister). Before replacing, release the pressure on the fuel line by depressing a schrader valve on the fuel line under the hood. Make sure the engine ic COLD before you do this, as some fuel make come out.

    CH
  • gracyegracye Member Posts: 6
    I have had my 94 burb just over a year. Within the 1st couple months I had to replace the master cylinder. Less than a year later I am told that I need to replace the master cylinder again. Is this normal???? I also replace the brake line. But still having problems with the brakes. Thanks for your help
  • cdhpc2cdhpc2 Member Posts: 4
    Our 99 gas suburban has started having real bad hesitation when it is cold. After a couple of miles, it stops. The computer says that an O2 sensor is out, but they don't tell me which one (there are 4). In reading about the O2 sensor operation, I don't think it would cause the hesitation, but I am not sure. I think I have 20K or so on the plugs and the wires. Any ideas ? TIA

    CH
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    The error code will tell you which O2 sensor, usually decipers to bank x, sensor y.

    x = 1, is the bank with the cylinder=1
    x = 2, is the other cylinder

    y = 1, is the first sensor, before the cat converter
    y = 2, is the second sensor, after the cat converter
  • murphy4murphy4 Member Posts: 92
    We have 3 small boys, a dog and seem to always have a bunch of gear on trips. We have never been SUV people, always foreign wagons. We rented a Suburban last summer on a trip and I love it. The gas mileage was better than expected, managing the right foot and the cylinder de activation on the highway makes a huge difference.

    Now our lease on our volvo wagon is close to coming to an end. I am thinking Suburban/Yukon XL. What should we truly be paying? Is a 2009 better than a 2008? The 2009 do have the 6 speed, that has to help highway miles.

    Any advice to a SUV rookie would be appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Had our first Suburban 10 years, on the 2nd one now, upgraded just to get the newer style and technology.

    Suburban vs.Yukon/XL, is basically trim levels and logo. Just cross shop to compare.

    Seat selection is important, buckets vs. bench. You'll get as many people for one way vs. the other. Personally, we prefer the benches for two reasons. Firstly when we travel on trips, each of my girls gets a row and they lay across the seat, with pillows propped up when they want to sit. Makes for a very comfortable travel setup, able to travel great distances in comfort. Secondly, when you're hauling the kids and their friends, or family, or whomever, it's nice to be able to seat 8. I'm sure others will prefer the buckets for their own set of reasons.

    Having all of the storage space in the 'way back' for vacation suitcases and mantoys, is also key.

    There's a couple nice features that I didn't want to buy but came with my trim package (LTZ), and now that I've had them I like them:
    - electric tilt in mirrors. You push a button and the outside mirrors pivot inwards, so you can pull into the garage without scraping the mirrors. Also good to use in tight parking situations in parking lots, makes it easier for people to walk buy, or cars to get by without clipping your mirrors.
    - auto-leveling shocks. The weight that the vehicle carries in my case varies widely. I could be pulling a trailer one day, driving empty myself the next, and 8 people with luggage and bikes hanging off the back the following day. This feature keeps the vehicle level no matter which load I'm carrying.

    My girls are heading into the college era soon, so I'm sure it will come in handy hauling their 'stuff' back and forth. It's a great family vehicle, very practical and versatile, assuming you have a place where you can park it.
  • aggie10aggie10 Member Posts: 17
    We have an 04 Suburban,a nd we're looking to trade it in. We'd like a new one, but it might be too pricey. Does anyone have any ideas of a replacement vehicle that might be less expensive without a huge dropoff in space and cargo room? We're thinking about the new Chevy Traverse, but we're not sure. Our Suburban has about 60,000 miles, and is out of the warranty. That's wht makes us nervous. Thanks so much for any and all advice.
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    Don't do it -- you'll never want to get anthing else! For me, there is not much that compares to a Suburban -- the comfort, versatility, and relative economy are unmatched in any other vehicle. We tow a 28 ft. travel trailer, haul church youth w/ gear trailer to camps and other activities, take long trips in very snowy winter conditions, moderate 4X4 trails in Moab (to get away from the crowds and see the sights!) and everything in between, and it handles everything with aplomb, in uncompromising fashion. After years of mid-sized SUVs, my wife and I often wonder how we did it before.

    Of course, we obviously use ours for the purposes it was designed; if you use it like you did your Volvo, you may be less happy on a day-to-day basis. I grew up driving them, so I don't even notice the size. My wife did not, and still gets a little nervous in tight parking lots. Be careful and analyze your needs.

    I can't comment on prices, ect, for new ones, but have a couple of observations. My bro-in-law has an '08 w/ 6.0l engine and 4:10 gears, and his uses a lot more gas than my '04 w/ 5.3l (also w/ 4:10 gears), cylinder deactivation notwithstanding. For instance, we took a 500 mile trip together, obviously driving identical speeds and conditions, and we got 2 mpg better for the trip than he did (17 mpg vs. 19 mpg). His '08 does not have the 6 spd transmission. But I'd go with the 5.3l engine regardless -- there are three trucks w/ the GM 5.3l in my "family," and all have performed very well. Depending on your needs (towing, ect), the standard 3.42 gears would be fine. If you tow anywhere near the max, 4:10s are essential. I like our bench middle row, but with 2 kids, we don't use the rear seat on a daily basis. If we did, I would definitely go with the middle row captains chairs for ease of access to the rear seats. Speaking of rear seats, if you plan to make any use of them, don't go with a Tahoe/Yukon. The design of the floor makes that seat practically useless IMO. Plus, there is absolutely no cargo space behind it when upright. With the Suburban/YXL, the rear seat is nearly as comfortable as the middle, and there is plenty of storage behind; we have taken a weekend trip w/ 6 adults and necessary luggage with plenty of space for all. Good luck!
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Well, I'll jump in too. We have an '05 Yukon XL and love it. Very comfy, roomy, surpisingly fuel efficient for its size. The next vehicle will definitely be another Suburban or YXL. The differences, as has been noted, are just a matter of cosmetics and trim levels. For some reason, GMC and Chevy package things differently, slightly different standard equipment. Pay close attention and you'll eventually figure out the right model and trim level to get only what you need and nothing else. We went with GMC (SLT trim) because our vehicle had some things unavailable on Suburban LS, but did not include some of the extras we didn't want from the Suburban LT.

    If money were no object, I'd get a new YXL Denali fully loaded and be done with it. But it is.. so here are my present thoughts regarding:

    -gears - I'll go with the 3.42 again. With our 4-speed, I do wish we had the 4.10 as it tends to be indecisive (3rd vs. 4th) at higher speeds when towing. It doesn't lack for power, but occasionally likes to drop into passing gear for very moderate inclines. But with the new 6-speed transmission, I wouldn't expect that to be an issue, and would like the better fuel economy for the majority of trips we take without a trailer. (We rent a camper every few months, and may eventually buy one.)

    -Autoride air suspension - I wouldn't say I need it, but everyone who has it seems to like it a lot. I have never seen our rear end sag, even when towing, and I am very satisfied with the ride comfort. But I would like to try it out and see if it's worth $1100 to me.

    -2WD vs 4WD - We have no need for 4WD. No offroading expected, very little snow in our area. As long as you get the locking rear differential and good quality tires, 2WD with the standard traction control is just fine for wet and occasional ice, and gets slightly better mpg.

    -engine - The 6.0 is a beast, and not much more expensive. But, the 5.3 has never wanted for power in my experience, and again with the 6-speed tranny, I imagine it's very responsive and great for towing. I'd rather have the better gas mileage.

    -bench vs buckets - we have buckets now and it's been great. We have three small kids in booster seats. It's really nice having two of them in the back seat and able to walk through the middle row without having to flip and fold anything. However, as they get older and are able to handle it, it would be nice to have the 8th seat on occasion, or to remove the 3rd row entirely and have that much more space for camping gear and luggage. We have managed just fine with all three rows in place and the hitch haul platform for coolers, gear boxes, folding chairs, etc., but I can envision scenarios where removing the third row and still seating the five of us would be very convenient. Also, we may add to the family at some point and the more seats the merrier.

    -gadgets - We have the power pedals and they are great. I'm 6'3", my wife is 5'2". Wouldn't go without them on the next vehicle. I do wish we had sprung for the top trim level (SLT2, I think) because while we have power seats, mirrors, and pedals, we do not have the memory function. It only takes a moment to get set when we switch drivers, but it would sure be convenient to press just one button, or better yet, be identified and automatically reset from my key fob. Also wish we had the power folding mirrors as we have "grazed" the side of the garage a few times... Also would like remote start and bluetooth next time around, I believe those are standard on all but the base models these day. I don't need navigation or satellite radio, but I would like a USB port for the iPod. That may require an upgraded stereo.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    If you use all three rows and need cargo space, the Traverse will not cut it. 60K is not a lot of miles and your Suburban may be very reliable for years to come. And you won't get much on a trade. Maybe you'd feel at ease with an extended warranty for a couple thousand bucks? If you must have something new, consider a lightly used 2008, or wait another year for an 09 with the 6-speed transmission. That's what I'm holding out for.
  • aggie10aggie10 Member Posts: 17
    Thank you all for the feedback! This is such a great resource. I have one last question. Someone mentioned an extended warranty.....can I buy that now even though I have 60,000 miles? Sorry if that's a stupid question. Thanks again for everything.
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    I would second the opinion that 60k isn't a lot of miles for these trucks. Is there something potentially wrong with it? Our '04 now has 83k and has not missed a beat. My bro has an '02 Tahoe, 110k miles, no problems. My dad has a '99, 270k miles, no problems (of course, things like batteries, alternator, fuel pump, ect. have been replaced. But major stuff is still sound). His '96 before that, 170k miles when he traded it in (only traded it in b/c '99 was the last year they were putting the 5.7l in them, and he loves his Chevy 350s!). If you have maintained it properly, I wouldn't be worried about anything major breaking on it.

    Also second that when you go to trade it in, you will be disappointed at what they offer you. Unless you really don't like the vehicle or are aware of specific potential problems, I'd say it makes financial sense to hold on to it as well. Btw, you won't save much, if any, on gas in an awd Traverse. Certainly not enough to eat a bunch of money trading the Suburban in.
  • aggie10aggie10 Member Posts: 17
    Thanks, ahightower (and others). I guess I'm probably being paranoid. I love Suburbans. I guess I've just heard horror stories about repairs. Actually, I'm ready for some new tires, but other than that....I don't have any reason to think I'm about to have any issues. In June, we're driving to Florida (from Texas), so it makes me a little nervous long drive. Based on yours and your family's success with Suburbans, I guess I should just chill out and enjoy it. Thanks a lot for alleviating my concerns/fears. You can probably tell that I'm definitely not mechanically inclined. Ha!
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    I have a '04 Tahoe with 102 000 miles on it and I intend to keep it another 3 years. That is when it will be 7 years old and I have to buy something newer because of the policy company I work for has.

    In the same company another guy has a Sub with over 250 000 miles and all he had to fix on it was intake "carburetor" assembly and the drive shaft went out just last week...$139 fix at dealer.

    Buying a new vehicle involves using a lot of money. Your sub has almost zero trade in value or trying to sell it is very difficult other than when some people hear about it having only 60 000 miles they will get it. It just is hard to get a good pay for it.

    Another way to think about all this is to replace the engine and transmission on it both for 36 000 miles warranty and it can be done for $7000 - 8000 with factory parts. You will spend way more for any new car with trade in.

    If your truck is in good condition inside and out don't worry. If it breaks you can get it back to almost as new condition for much less than buying anything new.

    But there always is that "new car bug bite"...

    Arrie
  • aggie10aggie10 Member Posts: 17
    Thanks so much, arrie. That really puts everything in perspective! I'm convinced-I'm totally going to keep what I have. Thanks again to everyone.
  • murphy4murphy4 Member Posts: 92
    Thanks for all the input. We are seriously heading toward buying either. As I do more research I see the differences between Suburban and Yukon XL is mostly packaging and options. I personally like the way the Suburban looks.

    Now it just about getting the best deal. Leaning towards 2009 because of the 6 speed and few other items, although the 2008 are hard to pass up because of the deals.

    Anyone have feedback on what a 2009 LT2 should be costing?
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    Good luck. I think odds of several more years of trouble-free use are highly in your favor. In my opinion, virtually every car on the road will run to 150k miles without major problems. I and my family drive a lot (as you can see from the high mileage vehicles I identified above), so nearly every vehicle I've ever had has quickly gotten into the "high mileage" category. My first car, an 83 Ford Escort, ran until about 200k (died as a hand-me-down when my brother didn't put the oil plug back in properly after a change). Three subsequent jeeps all above 150k. My daily current daily driver, an '02 VW Passat, currently has 123k. I name the vehicles b/c some of those are rated lower on the reliability scale by a lot of car people. But I've maintained them religiously, and never had a drivetrain-related problem with any of them. Same goes for pretty much all the vehicles my family has owned. Incidentially, the only car I've had any drivetrain problems with was an '01 Acura TL, made by Honda. It went through 2 transmissions in 50k miles, due to an engineering defect that Honda has admitted to. Of course, freak problems sometimes arise, but I think generally speaking, a Sub w/ 60k miles is just getting started! ;)
  • aggie10aggie10 Member Posts: 17
    Thank you so much! Honestly, I don't know a ton about vehicle maintenance. I can follow directions, and I know when to get my oil changed, etc... However, is there anything special that you do to get this type of longevity out of your vehicles? When you say "maintenance," is there something specific you do besides regular oil changes, etc...? This is incredible. Unfortunately, as you can tell from my posts, I get a little nervous when the mileage gets up there. We have traditionally traded our cars in (which makes me feel like a fool now). Thanks for any advice. I really, really appreciate it. I'm excited because we love our Suburban. I was just afraid of having to spend a ton of cash in the near future. Again, I don't have any reason to anticipate any problems...just the mileage. Thanks so much!
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    aggie10,

    For my '04 Tahoe I do nothing special other than I closely watch engine coolant level. I change my oil between every 3000-4000 miles, closer to 3000 miles even though my oil life indicator says I have 70% oil life left at change. My driving is almost all highway so I really should not need to change oil at 3000 miles but I do it anyway.

    About the engine coolant level. I don't want to make you nervous about this but if you read on this Edmunds or other forums you will learn that GM had some issues with some cylinder head castings. The problem sounds to be porous castings that cause engine coolant to leak inside the engine, which can be very bad for the engine and lead to engine failure.

    I have posted about this but I write it here so you do not need to go find for it. What happened to me is that on July 4th last year my engine temperature suddenly went close to the maximum reading on the meter and I got the "Engine Coolant High Temperature" warning message. My engine coolant had leaked but I never saw it because it was not leaking outside the engine. I also had some level in the coolant expansion reservoir under the hood but it was not at half way as it should be and it was a false indication too. I added almost 2 gallons of coolant to bring the level back so I was very dry. For some reason (probably vapor pressure) the expansion reservoir never went completely empty.

    After reading about this under the "Engine Cooling" topic I went and bought a $3.50 bottle of Bar's radiator sealant and poured it in the coolant expansion reservoir. I have not lost any coolant since so I am quite sure I had one of those porosity leak issues and the radiator sealant fixed it.

    Because of the issue with this I weekly look at the coolant level under the hood. If it drops any I will use another sealant bottle but as I said so far I have not lost any.

    As your Sub is also an '04 this would be the only "special" point of attention for you, i.e. keep an eye on the engine coolant level so you can act before it gets too low. Mine was so low that I am just amazed that I did not have my engine burn.

    It also is that not all Tahoe / Suburban engines have these cylinder heads with possible problem. It pertains only to heads from a specific manufacturer at a specific time.

    Other than this change oil and just drive.

    Arrie
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    No special tricks to maintenance. Other people will have different ideas (ie, change oil every 3000 miles), but I just follow the recommendations/requirements in the owners manual as far as intervals for changing fluids, filters, ect. On the Chevy, I change the engine oil when the indicator tells me to. On my VW, I change every 5k miles like the manual says. Don't forget to maintain things like transmission, transfer case, and differential fluids as the manual directs, whether the dealership does it or an independent. Opinions will vary, but I use high quality synthetic engine oil (Mobile 1) and transmission fluid -- adds a little money to services, but it isn't much in the long run.

    Beyond maintenance, I go through and check my fluids about once a month -- check transmission, engine oil, coolant level, power steering fluid, refill wiper fluid bottle. Your owners manual explains how to properly check these (especially the transmission). Takes about 2 minutes. Also, pay attention to noises, changes in operation, ect. Drive with the radio off on occasion and listen.

    As far as coolant leak problems, I haven't had any problems. The coolant level on my '04 hasn't changed since I've owned the vehicle. The temp gauge never goes above the center point on the gauge, either, even towing the 6000 lb travel trailer in hot summer temps and steep highway grades we have out here in the West. Again, good luck.
  • AB_aka_BeeZZieAB_aka_BeeZZie Member Posts: 1
    Anyone know how to replace a foglight assembly on a 2001 Chevy Suburban 4WD 2500?

    I found that the driver side foglight lens on my Suburban is missing; I've already purchased a new assembly, but now can't figure out how to replace without removing the whole front bumper....Haven't been able to find an answer anywhere online.......... :( ...... is there an easier way to do this?
  • sbatncplsbatncpl Member Posts: 3
    I to am at the contemplation stage of trading in my Suburban. BUT. Mine is a 1995 model with only 95,000 miles. Excellent shape, kept in the garage and everything works. The answer why do I want another one is simple, I've got a bug for another Suburban! The only years I'm interested in are 07 and 08. I like the body styles better. Trade-in for mine is $3,000 max! and an 07 will easily cost 28,900 and an 08 I can work on for about 35k. But is it worth it? I do plan to keep it for 13 years, but will the new one last as long as the one I have? Dealers are not dealing like I wish they would on 07 and 08 models, they have the price up there and they aren't moving. So. Should I trade or stay with what I have?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I had similar situation over a year ago, went from a 97 to an 07.

    My observations: ride is substantially nicer, less interior space, many more creature comforts and technology improvements, smaller gas tank (loved the old 42 gallon drive a whole vacation day tank).

    I like you, will have (I need to tow or travel) a Suburban for years to come.

    Did I "need" to upgrade, no. Could I have gone another couple of years without it, probably (nothing major wrong). Do I feel like I made the right decision a year ago, yes.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    Mine is a 1995 model with only 95,000 miles. Excellent shape, kept in the garage and everything works.
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Don't even think about trading for one of the later models. Keep driving your '95 until you use it up....then upgrade. You won't be sorry.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    If you want new, I'd get an 09 with the six-speed transmission. If you want used, wait another year or two and pick up a used 09. That's one significant upgrade that I think is worth either paying for or waiting for.
  • northernlivingnorthernliving Member Posts: 6
    Mine looks the same (wife's fingernails!). You can get repalcement buttons from http://replacementradios.com/product_info.php?products_id=1032
  • geodocgeodoc Member Posts: 1
    developed a transfer case leak @ 120k due to oil pump flange induced design defect (like msg# 49/377). i have a gravel drive and didn't detect leakage until i heard gear noise (alas, too late!) and internal components were fried. looking for a way to avoid same at 240k. is it possible to beef up this area of case with a weld or other? also looking for source for reliable taillight bulb receptacles, as i've had lots of trouble here
  • murphy4murphy4 Member Posts: 92
    Has anyone leased a 2009 Suburban in the last few months? Are there any competaative lease rate in the market now?
  • kslrrkslrr Member Posts: 2
    Hello. New to the forum. I might have another reason for an indicated "sensor failure", especially if accompanied by noises from the front: Wheel bearing failure to point that the Center line of the wheel is no longer perpendicular to the Spindle, which would screw with the speed sensor gap. I will post what I find.

    Fortunately for me, the bearings started to make the awful noise only 10 miles from home (Perris, CA) this morning just as I started my 245 mile trip to Las Vegas, where I work.
  • kslrrkslrr Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I did find that the front bearings were failing. Especially the right which sounded like a coffee grinder and the play was at least 1/8 inch.
  • ozzman38ozzman38 Member Posts: 2
    thinking about buying a suburban 96 5.7 vortec, the owner said it over heated and they parked it and it been seating there for a year. some back yard mechanic told them the engine was froze the battery was dead the owner had a battery charger we charge it over night the next day the engine turn over so it not froze I pulled out the oil stick and it was rust covered is that from seating for so long or could it have a cracked block and coolant got in the oil??????
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be a blown head gasket caused problem.

    But if the oil stick is all rusty when you pull it out, you'll need a new engine. Sounds like the vehicle is a good candidate for the crusher.

    Run, don't walk.
  • ozzman38ozzman38 Member Posts: 2
    the body is in great shape if the only thing it needs is a rebiuld I can handle that why scrape it? A headgasket is nothing>
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If the engine has been sitting with water in the oil so that when you pull the dipstick it's rusty, then you could have rust on the main crank bearings, cylinder walls, etc.

    R, DW
  • built2beatfabbuilt2beatfab Member Posts: 1
    Have steering and brake issues recently put a steering pump and hydro boost bleed and troubleshooted everything flusterd need to pick someones brain that has some knowledge of this problem .it has abs thinking of doing the gear box next .I did the power steering pump a few weeks ago everything was fine 2 weeks later steering and brakes are out . let me know what u think thanks mike
  • 99k1500burb99k1500burb Member Posts: 1
    I am putting a 1970s 454 into my burb. what is involved as far as brackets for pumps and alternator and stuff. has anyone done this. any pointers would be helpful.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    I have a 2005 Yukon XL. 6-CD unit, no NAV. Every now and then, maybe every 5th engine start, the clock will reset to 12:00 and it will cycle through the CD's, as if the battery had been dead and it was jump started. It doesn't forget the radio presets though, which confuses me. And I may be imaging this, but it seems to hesitate on start up, very briefly.

    I'm thinking possibly bad battery connection? Do you suppose the NTB who sold me the battery just over a year ago would be able to check this (for free?)

    Other ideas? Just the head unit, maybe? Alternator? I'm no electrician. So far it never fails to start, but resetting the clock is getting annoying, and my wife is getting a little nervous. Thanks for any ideas.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Most autoparts stores will do a free battery and alternator check, and look for a loose battery connection. Since NTB put the battery in, that's where I'd recommend you start.
  • 94burban94burban Member Posts: 1
    Hey i have a 1994 suburban and it has alittle over 266,000 miles on it and is still running strong no major problems in the last 60k tranny replaced at around 200k never rebuilt oil changed every 3k the older suburbans are great runners and have alot of life in them i wouldnt buy a newer one
  • jcb4greenjcb4green Member Posts: 6
    My 1996 Tahoe was having terrible problems starting and running correctly. The initial diagnosis was the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. After almost $2000 dollars of replacing the sensor, engine tune-up, fuel filter and fuel pump I was still having the same problems, but not all the time. I had a local mechanic due the work and he said take it to Chevy and have them diagnose the problem, which they determined was still the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. Since my mechanic had done the original work I took the Tahoe back to him with the Chevy diagnosis problem. He crawled under the truck with it running and saw the sensor moving around while it was running. He took the sensor out and discovered that one of the mounting bolts screws into a brass fitting inside the plastic timing chain cover. The brass fitting was loose and just needed a screw driver inserted into it to spread it to increase the tension on the plastic cover. My mechanic put it back together and it resolved all my problems, meaning most of the $2000 dollars I had spent trying to fix a problem that ended up being caused by maybe a 25 cent brass fitting in a plastic cover. Live and Learn. By the way my 1996 Tahoe has almost 154000 miles on it with the original engine and transmission.
  • guya60guya60 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 Gmc Suburban does exactly the same thing yours does. Have you been able to come up with a fix?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That post is from 2005
  • jbl2001jbl2001 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 98 gmc suburban with a vortec 350 and i am haveing problems with it. when u start it up and go to drive away with it it gets to 3000 rpms and it just stumbble on it face. i had checked coil, put in a brand new distributor, had the ignition module checked at the part store and put new plugs and wires, and fuel injectorand it is still doing it
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    any error codes in the computer?

    check for leaking intake manifold
  • jbl2001jbl2001 Member Posts: 3
    nope no lights and the intake manifold is not leaking i had had this truck for 3 years and i don't want toget ride of it u know what i need to check the fuel pressere
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I reread your problem symptom, and may have mis-interpreted what you were saying. Explain the 3K rpms statement. Are you saying that you are in park and starting it and rev it to 3K and it stumbles (no load condition).....or does it run okay at low rpm and low load?

    Or is the situation that you are really trying to accelerate fast (at say 30-40 mph and the car isn't able to accelerate (high load situation).

    If it is the later, you could have a bad fuel pump, very common.
  • jbl2001jbl2001 Member Posts: 3
    just to let u know what was going on with my suburban it was the fuel pump
  • tkdfantkdfan Member Posts: 1
    my mechanic has diagnosed my very-hard-to-start 1999 gmc suburban problem as bad fuel pressure regulator. He has quoted 7 hours and $1100 for the job (r&r upper intake, associated gaskets, nipples, oil change, etc). Labor rates can vary, but is the amount of hours about right? i've seen posts that this job should take much much less, but I think those engines have the FPR mounted outside the engine. Been doing business with these guys for 5+ years and never did me wrong, but appreciate your impressions on this.
  • rgerberrgerber Member Posts: 1
    2002 Suburban Dome lights/ door lights not working. I have checked the fuse and replaced the headlight switch and the lights still do not work. I took one of the dome lights down and put 12 volts on it and all the lights worked. I suspect there is a bad relay somewhere but I can not find it. Thanks, Bob
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electrical schematics for your year.

    But interior lighting in later model Suburbans is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module), which is basically a computer that manages when lights are turned on and off.....based upon input signals from light switches, timers, door opener, security system, open door switches, etc.

    Don't think there is anything else I can offer...
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