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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • theravetherave Member Posts: 1
    Can also be a bad fuel filter. Change the filter first unless you know it's good. Your problem may disappear (mine did :-)
  • bhaightbhaight Member Posts: 1
    I had a macanic come over to house and do some work on jimmy. He put in a rear u joint, and a tuneup. Before tune up jimmy ran great but after the tuneup emediatley ran rough really rough, I thought maybe he broke a wire when changeing plugs, so put new plug wires on sure that would solve problem, NOPE! guy came back put little handheld computer on it and gave error code for o2 and missfire on a cylinder and catylitic converter code of some sort, wich i believe are not this problem because regardless of those issue it was running STRONG!. He changed cap and rotor that first day, could he have advanced the timeing some how? It smells like its running rich liked it choked. This rig ran GREAT before tuneup so im not buying an o2 sensor and cat went out a micro second after a tuneup. from the little i know it acts like a timming issue?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be.....If you had plugs that weren't firing, they wouldn't be burning the fuel, it would be dumping unburnt/misburnt fuel into the exhaust system, giving out of range o2 readings, and causing the exhaust to smell like it was very rich.

    Pull all of the plugs, check to see what each one looks like. Check your wiring sequence, to make sure you didn't get wires crossed to the plugs.
  • sbrkovichsbrkovich Member Posts: 1
    I am in the process of restoring a 96 Chevy Suburban. While replacing the stereo and changing out the antenna my heating control unit stopped working correctly. The fan control works but when I select heater, vents etc. it only blows out of the front defroster. It was working fine until the last time I took the stereo out and replaced the antenna lead and right after that this issue began. Also the positions of vent, heater, mix etc. don't click at each spot - but I'm not sure if they did previous to this. Someone suggested I replace the whole control unit but is it possible I blew a fuse or disconnected a wire or something more simple. It just seems to coincidental that the control was working fine previous to the last time I pulled out the stereo and now it doesn't work.
    http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/- emotorcons/emo_tongue.gif
    :cry: Any thoughts and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • cdhpc2cdhpc2 Member Posts: 4
    I hate to tell you this, but pull the radio and see if you accidently pulled a wire loose on the Diverter door servo. That went out on ours and we were unable to get any front heat. Rear heat worked fine.

    CH
  • pauliedpaulied Member Posts: 1
    Hey Cheeshead, I was wondering how you made out? I am looking for the same part and can not find it anywhere. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks
  • rpmcommanderrpmcommander Member Posts: 2
    165,000 miles, I put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor and CPS for oil leak (as part of tune-up) Then 2 days later, no spark from coil. luckily in my driveway. Both the Ignition module and coil get pwr to pink wire, but after replacing them anyway (after 165k miles) it still doesn't start. Cranks good and fast, just won't fire or start. While looking for the pulse from the Ignition module to coil (test light clip to + and probe the ports), I found that the pink wire goes open during the crank process and no pulse . checked the pink wire to the ICM and sure enough, it goes open too. Replaced the ECM/PCM and reprogrammed security system but did not solve the problem. , I'm really perplexed but now suspect the key switch sensor in the column and will recheck the engine ground connections when it stops raining before changing the key electronics. Anyone have ANY ideas or know of anything else it might be?? Or am I on the right track?
  • rpmcommanderrpmcommander Member Posts: 2
    UPDATE As you probably figured, the cleaning of the ground terminals did not help the situation. I cleaned the engine-to-frame grounds near the starter, cleaned the battery cable-to block ground near the harmonic balancer, and the ECM/PCM ground at the thermostat housing. I rechecked all the fuses for the 6th time -- All ok, also jump-charged the "newer" battery for an hour---- Engine still spins very fast on crank but fails to show any signs of trying to fire. :confuse: Guess I'll drop another $100 on the passkey electronics tomorrow.
  • mroseramrosera Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Z71 Suburban with an (intermittent (every couple of weeks) dead battery problem - sometimes needs a jump start/sometimes not - but turns over very slow, clock reset to 12:00, CD changer cycles through all disks; yet radio station presets are maintained) - I have also heard the occasional very faint whirring noise in the dash when the vehicle is off - like a damper motor in the heating/cooling/defrost system moving to a 'home' location (possibly?)

    Then, for the next couple of weeks it starts beautifully.

    I had the system tested at Advance Auto with a 'state of the art' testing device - they test (1) vehicle off, all accessories off (2) vehicle off, all accessories that can be on, turned on (3) vehicle on, all accessories off, and (4) vehicle on, all accessories on.

    With the vehicle off, all accessories off, the draw was about 1.4 amps which they said was fine. Battery is new (been replaced 2 times) / Connections are clean.

    What might be additional root cause(s)?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Since you've already replaced your battery,.....I'd suspect, that at some point in time, something is cycling on (or not turning off), and putting a larger drain than the 1 amp when it was tested.

    The challenge obviously, is how to catch it. One thing you can try, is pulling the fuses on all non-essential circuits, to eliminate them as potential causes. Power seats, rear defogger, air leveling shocks, cigarette lighters and power outlets, interior lights, radio, power windows, seat heaters, EVERYTHING YOU CAN. Keep track of every circuit that it isn't, because you'll use process of elimination to hopefully isolate it.

    If you can buy an ampmeter on the battery and can catch it when it is failing, you can then start pulling fuses to instantly figure out which circuit the current draw is coming from. If you can't get an ampmeter, or catch the time on the ampmeter when it's failing, you're just going to have to track it over time.

    The BCM body control module, is a computer which turns on things in the vehicle (like lights), and it may be turning things on inappropriately. The On-star system wakes up and calls home periodically as well. There's lots of things happening, unplug everything but the bare necessities as the first pass to isolate where the problem may be.
  • mroseramrosera Member Posts: 3
    I greatly appreciate your detailed troubleshooting steps - they are 'spot on'.

    The trick will be to 'catch it' when the vehicle is in 'discharge mode' - I haven't been able to do that yet. It's been a couple weeks, so I guess I'm 'due' any day now...

    I was hoping - after reading of similar issues in this and other forums with both Suburbans and Tahoes - that there may be a common 'root cause', and thus make the trouble shooting and action plan implementation much easier.

    Has anyone with similar issues found a root cause?
  • offsiteoffsite Member Posts: 1
    I've put about 10K miles on a new 2009 LTZ and have come to realize that the interior noise level is noticeably louder than the 2004 LT that I traded in. Also, my kids have now complained that the doors get really cold (Chicago winters).

    So my question is this … would it be possible to take the vehicle in somewhere and have them insulate the car is some way to improve both these issues? If so … a dealer or some aftermarket shop?

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • chevythwartedchevythwarted Member Posts: 4
    ok this problem has been eluding me for months now. My 92 Burb will not start without adding starting fluid and then will not idle at less than 1500-2000 RPM. I am getting 12+volts to the injectors I have changed the oil pressure sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, ESC, EEC(computer) O2 sensor, map sensor, Idle air control valve, full tune up and full oil change. The symptoms are; Vehicle will not start without starting fluid, then once started will not idle below 1500-2000, it appears to shut off the injectors. I have talked to several techs that I know and they are all baffled. ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS.
  • chevythwartedchevythwarted Member Posts: 4
    Well actually if you wanted you could do it yourself. Buy some Dyno mat ( or something like that) normally used for sound deadening for large stereos. pull apart the door panels and replace the plastic normally put on there with the Dyno mat. This should block considerable more cold air as well as deaden the sound. Just make sure you imitate the some hole patterns 9but maybe tighter) so that everything moves freely on the inside.
  • mo_shade_treemo_shade_tree Member Posts: 7
    When you turn the key to the run position, Do you here the pump in the tank running? You say it will not idle less than 1500-2000 rpms - is this with your foot on the gas pedal or with you spraying starting fluid? Doesn't your truck have a distributor? I didn't see where you replaced the ignition module. I would also remove, inspect and clean all of the body ground wires.
  • plrodplrod Member Posts: 13
    Just came across your post and am not sure if you ever got the answer but...if you look at the label inside your glovebox, the codes that begin with G are for the rear end type and gearing. Google the code plus cpo and you should get the info you're looking for. Good luck and sorry if I've duplicated someone elses response. I drive a 98 K1500 Sub with a 6.5TD and wouldn't have anything else for a family hauler, I love this rig.
  • v8fun4uv8fun4u Member Posts: 3
    New brake rotors now seem to come with the bearing races installed. Should I replace them with the ones that come with the new bearings or is it ok to use the race that come in the new rotor and use old bearings as long as they look good. I'm old school and always thought they should be kept in sets.
  • steveheckerstevehecker Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1997 4X4 suburban and it is leaking radiator fluid from what looks to me like an engine oil cooler. it has lines going from the radiator to the engine oil filter.my question is can i by pass it and plug it off temporarily without over heating the engine until i can order the part?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Are you talking about the transmission cooler?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I had a '97, and as I recall there was an option to upgrade from the standard transmission cooler (which is integral and inside a chamber in the radiator), to include a small cooler which sits in front of the radiator and adds additional cooling.

    I don't recall a factory engine oil cooler available, but I threw out all of the ordering info I had on that vehicle a couple years ago. An extra transmission cooler makes sense for heavy duty towing applications, not sure about an engine oil cooler.
  • cdhpc2cdhpc2 Member Posts: 4
    I think that is a transmission oil cooler. No, you can't bypass it. After 12 years it may corroding or maybe vibration has caused it to leak.. See if a radiator shop can repair it.
  • dmichaelsendmichaelsen Member Posts: 1
    I put new plugs and air filter in my Suburban in October. I had a new fuel pump / fuel filter put in my Suburban in November when it died in my driveway. Ever since then it sputters when I reach speeds of 40-48 mph. Once I get to 50 it runs fine. It also sputters sometimes when waiting at a light. I haven't taken it back to the garage as every time I pull it it's $100 for the diagnostic alone! Can anyone give me any ideas on what the problem might be. I'd like to be somewhat informed before taking it back to the garage again, as this is getting $$!
  • workman4_82workman4_82 Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like your catalytic converter may be clogged. Does your suburban act like it doesn't have any power?
  • gustheicemangustheiceman Member Posts: 4
    Hope you can help. 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT 1500 4x4. For a couple of weeks now the A/C hasn't worked, on Friday I had it re-gassed, there was only 2lbs in the system when there should have been 3lbs. Tried to get the A/C to cut in but no joy. The engineer said he had no idea why. I've bridge the terminals at the pressure switch and checked all the fuses and checked the relays (all OK) and can't get the compressor clutch to "Click in". Then somebody said, "Maybe it's because over the last month the temperature here in the UK has not been higher than 4 degrees, and having "Computer Climate Control” the A/C won’t kick in because the ambient temperature is too cold”, they also suggested maybe I need to re-set something after re- charging”.
    Any advice would be most welcome.
    Kind Regards
    Gus
  • brandygumpbrandygump Member Posts: 1
    My suburban was squeeking really bad. So we replaced the the idler pulley and a new belt. It stopped queeking, but now it's making a terrible clicking sound. Sounds like something is stuck. We took the belt off and it didn't make the noise. put it back on and again it's clicking. Any ideas? I hate this car. We have replaced the water pump, radiator, battery, starter, plugs and wires. Fuel filter and air filter. New brakes and shocks. I don't know what else to do.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Take the belt off, and turn all of the accessories by hand, to find out what is clicking (with the engine turned off, of course).
  • jesicoastguardjesicoastguard Member Posts: 5
    When we purchased our vehicle this past summer there were apparantly mouse droppings in it unknown to me though! Well I found some droppings in it this winter time in my sons stroller seat, where all the crumbs go. So I started setting traps. I have killed 6 of them so far and almost 7 but he got away last night. They are on the inside as far as I know. I'm not sure how they are getting in, if there are new ones coming in every night (we live in the country), or if there is a nest. I know they are coming in from the front of the vehicle, the firewall area. Other then taking the dash apart I do not know what to do other then just set the traps every night. Being that I have two small kids though I do not want something to happen to the wiring and that cause troubles while driving. If anyone has any tips or advice it would be greatly appreciated! My husband has done numerous amount of work on the engine but never seen anything, as far as a nest. So we think it is on the inside, if it is indeed a nest. The car sat for a while before we bought it so I believe that might be part of the problem. But if anyone could help out it would be wonderful! Thank you! :confuse:
  • jesicoastguardjesicoastguard Member Posts: 5
    We are at a loss so I figured I would ask here. We had a squeak noise start up here several months ago. I have a 99 Suburban if that matters. It's not a loud squeak just a little one. My husband has replaced the belt, and it stopped for a little while. Then it started back. My husband replaced the alternator just for the squeaking to stop and come back in a couple of days. He took it to a family mechanic who said he found nothing wrong with it but he replaced the belt. It was good for a couple of days and the squeaking started back yet again. If we travel in the vehicle for a while the squeaking subsides, like longer trips that last along 20-30 minutes. But just running from place to place around town the vehicle continues to squeak. We are at a loss now but my husband is thinking it may be a bearing. Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Do you think they're coming in thru the air ductwork?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take the belt off (while the engine is off), and turn by hand each of the accessories. Turn them, as well as feel for front/back play or wobble. I've found I can usually detect which accessory or pulley is the culprit.

    Many times it's the belt adjuster pulley, but have also had a waterpump and alternator bad on different vehicles.
  • jesicoastguardjesicoastguard Member Posts: 5
    That was a possible thought. But they seem to be coming in down where the heater box is located on the base of the floor board.
  • jesicoastguardjesicoastguard Member Posts: 5
    That is what my husband did before he replaced the belt the first time. He heard a clicking in the alternator and that is why when the squeaking started back up he replaced that. But he didn't hear anything else making a noise in there even listening to things with a stethoscope
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    That's the air ductwork I'm referencing.

    In the engine compartment, the air comes in up by the windshield, goes in thru the HVAC ductwork thur the air blender doors, and then into the passenger compartment.

    If you put your HVAC into re-circulate mode, it should close that fresh air inlet door (assuming they don't have some sort of nest or other garbage stopping that blender door from closing).
  • jesicoastguardjesicoastguard Member Posts: 5
    Ok! I'm not too good with my vehicle knowledge...my husband is that one! :)
    I will try that and see. Since I've caught 6 and there was a 7th one in there that got away....I think there is a nest but not 100% sure. I don't really see anything as far as I can look. We live in the country beside a corn field so they could just be coming from there.
    I set up 12 sticky traps and 9 mouse traps last night but nothing touched them.
    I will try that and see in the next couple days how everything goes!
    Thank you very much!
  • sslandysslandy Member Posts: 5
    I've got a 02 Suburban with 138k. The last couple of days, I noticed a roar from the front end (sounds like a plane is flying overhead). It is not real loud but I can hear it. If I shift into neutral while rolling along, it goes away. Comes back if I shift back into drive. Makes the same noise whether it is in 2 hi or 4 hi. Almost sounds/feels like it is in 4 hi but it doesn't complain about turning like it would if in 4 hi on dry pavement. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • gustheicemangustheiceman Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I had something very similar with my Olds Custom Cruiser, it turned out to be the viscous coupling in the fan. Hope this helps, fingers Xed. :)
    Gus
    Uk
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    For a few weeks my Suburban 1500 4WD had electrical malfunctions. The dash lights wouldn't turn on or maybe the radio wouldn't. The information also would say unknown driver and needs 4WD service. Sometimes the windows wouldn't roll down or the door locks lock or unlock. One time it would fire up but then die and later that day started just fine. Also for a couple of years the key fobs haven't been able to open the locks. Now it won't stay running. It just starts quickly and then quits. My mechanic checked all the grounds and says they were okay but I stopped him from pulling the tank as the car does fire up instantly and runs a second or two. The air filter was also very dirty so he tried it with that removed. Also the voltmeter read very low for at least a couple of weeks though the battery seemed fine. I checked the voltmeter voltage but it runs off a lower voltage supply. The car has for 3 years or so had a very occasional low fuel pressure problem which necessitates me to shut down the engine and then hit the fuel tank bottom. Also if it sits for 12 hours with less than a 1/3 of a tank I may also have to hit the tank to start it. Before those fixes would work though the engine would only fire intermittently. I think though that those symptoms are possibly an errant fuel pressure regulator and that it's unrelated to this problem. I do live on a really rough road and the car takes a pounding every day. I did see a TSB GM 1 1982 08 Q3 08 that detailed most of my electrical problems but the cable under the drivers seat seems okay and moving it doesn't help. I've printed the electrical diagrams. Any idea where I should start?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What year Suburban is this?

    And can you elaborate on these statements?

    "Also the voltmeter read very low for at least a couple of weeks though the battery seemed fine."

    and

    "I checked the voltmeter voltage but it runs off a lower voltage supply."

    If it were my car, I would have suspected a bad basic voltage problem (battery, alternator, loose/corroded connectors, etc) as the cause of your numerous electrical problems. You then indicate that you live on a rough road and the car takes a pounding.....and that could damage a battery internals.

    Take your car to an auto parts chain, most will do a battery and alternator load test for free (verifies that they are able to put out full rated voltage and current, while under severe load). If you need a battery, don't go cheap on the replacement, given your harsh drive environment.
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for the help. After I posted the message I decided to try a dealer and they fixed the problem within a couple of hours. I used to work in Electronics repair and I'm reminded of a standard joke we had about the problem being with the O.N. Slash O.F.F. switch. Sometimes we take ourselves (and our problems) too seriously and forget the fundamentals!

    I was actually driving the car for a few weeks without the fender inner-wall as the weather was so severe. That should have been the reason to fix it. Apparently the water and road salt combined and doused the bottom of the engine compartment fuse box. The service manager said that wires were corroded and there was water there. I was an electronics technician and since I knew the systems were controlled with a computer and that computers run on digital signals, I guessed that the voltages were fluxuating between states(0 volts and 5 volts). That was smart enough but any idiot could have surmised that having no inner fender would cause electrical circuits to be flooded and possibly cause problems. I laugh at people who worry about being shocked by 12 volts but should have considered signals being confused by saltwater.

    I repaired many sophisticated devices for years and found that much of the time the problem to be fixed does not require a lot of expertise, only a calm, clear, curious, logical, humble mind!

    Thanks again for the quick reply!
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    For those curious about my initial statements... If you were to buy a voltmeter and attach it to your car, the voltage across it's terminals would be from 11 to 14 volts or so depending on what the car was doing. Many meters, and specifically the one in my Suburban actually run on a lower voltage that is stepped down from the real voltage. They may actually run on a not purely proportional signal that simply designed to put the needle where the designers want it to signal what it was designed to signal. So another meter may not read the voltage at the meter that the meter is indicating when it's working properly. I've also heard that some pressure meters are designed to work this way though it's very annoying to purists who want accurate information.

    I also knew the meter was behaving badly because the car turned over easily and I had run it with this problem for quite a while and I had jump-started and charged the battery too.

    I also have a Chevy 1 ton capacity van 4WD conversion. It weighs about 3 tons and rides up our potholed driveway like a bucking bronco. The previous owner said he only got 3 years to a battery. Though the poor life is probably mostly due to infrequent usage and the way he wired in it's DVD players; I've put in one of those very expensive glass-mat batteries. Their literature says that they can be run dead, left discharged for some time and still have a reasonable life.

    I'm hoping that it will do well despite my camping deep discharge use, the very rough shaking my icy potholed driveway causes in the winter and starting my 8.1 liter engine. It's nice because connecting jumper cables to the van's side terminal battery was very difficult and risky but connecting to the glass-mat's batteries extra top terminals is sweet!
  • shana_83shana_83 Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    ok I just bought this 90 Suburban 2500 with a 350 engine and hadn't even drove it or had it for a week when it died while i was pulling into my drive way... Well I checked the computer changed the Ignition maud.. and then checked the fuel injectors thought it might be bad heads but they were fine, even took out the CD player to see if it was draining power its not the starter either it acts like it wants to turn over but something is keeping it from doing so and now im changing the cam sensor if that dont work what else is there to try?? The guy i bought it from wont even return any of my calls or anything so im stuck!
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    edited April 2010
    Your starter is running slow because of either
    1. It is not getting enough power because of
    a) weak battery or
    b) bad connection or ground or wiring from battery to starter - check voltages
    2. The engine is hard to turn over because
    a) There is fluid in the cylinders - water, fuel or oil - pull spark plugs
    b) The exhaust is blocked
    c) Something inside or run by the Engine is jammed
    d) ignition or valve timing is messed up
    3. The starter itself is worn out

    I would watch your dome light when running the starter to see if the starter is taking too much power or not enough. It should flicker some if the engine is hard to turn. If you turn the engine over with the plugs out you'll bypass any restriction problems.

    Seeing that you just bought it and the previous owner may have had the problem too, it may be an intermittent fuel or electrical problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited April 2010
    It is not clear from your posting, what your symptoms are.

    Is the starter engaged and turning the engine, but the engine is not starting up? (points to an engine running problem = fuel, compression, ignition)

    or

    When you turn the key, the starter does not turn the engine, or does so reluctantly?
    (points to a battery, alternator, starter, cables problem)
  • jamyeconklejamyeconkle Member Posts: 1
    steering box has to be unbolted. they come out easy .
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I'm coming to the conclusion that the steering box has to come out... I just don't want to admit that the Chevy engineers were that idiotic.

    That wouldn't surprise me anymore. I had a Corvette that was an absolute bear to work on the way everything as jammed into any available space.

    And then I found out that with the current Toyota Camry V6 engine, you have to pull the engine out to change the waterpump! Unbelievable. Glad I got the 4 cylinder.
  • howsjimmyhowsjimmy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 K1500 that always gets water leaking in the cargo area when it rains I have taken everything apart and still havent found the leak although I have a hunch it may be the rear ac unit also leaking I made sure the drip hole was clear not sure what else to do other than take out the carpet and use the hose? need some help.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You don't mention where it is wet.

    Does something get wet with the car just sitting (dripping down from a door gasket), or does it take the tire spray when moving for wherever to get wet?
  • howsjimmyhowsjimmy Member Posts: 3
    It shows that water is in between the channels of the cargo area and the in the rear around the ridge of the weather stripping but mostly its on the right side of the cargo area I havent taken out the carpet as of yet but plan to do it today

    I guess its one of those things you have to remove the carpet, clean the floor use a hose and see where it leaks the weather stripping looks to be fine I removed it and cleaned all of it, no problems I can notice there, I may take it to a drive through carwash just to see if it leaks anywhere but will know more when I remove the carpet.
  • howsjimmyhowsjimmy Member Posts: 3
    I think I have found the issue seems the weather stripping is worn to the point that its has lost its ability to hold firm against the frame I took the carpet out and ran the water hose over the door and it revealed that the water was conming in thru the lower part of the door bewteen the weather stripping and the door itself

    I am going to replace the weather stripping and run the hose again The old stripping was showing signs of age and has been formed to the door kinda squished and never expanded like it had should thanks for the help.
  • girlofsteelgirlofsteel Member Posts: 2
    Hi All, I have a 2001 Suburban 1500, just put a new tranny in it (oh happy day), drove it home from the shop it was fine. Next day, filled the tank, a short time after that the truck acted like it wasn't getting any gas, then drove fine for a while. Put 2 bottles of dry gas in it...ran perfectly. Chalked it up to bad gas. Put new fuel filter in it. Service engine light comes on with code 1810. Back to the garage I go. He puts the code reader on it, apparently the truck didn't know what gear it was in...but drove fine. Cleared the code. Next day get gas at a different location, same thing. Acts like it isn't getting gas, then drives fine, then does it again. Service engine light comes on again..same code 1810. Then it cleared itself the next day. The fuel pump has already been replaced (new) approx 3 years ago. Any thoughts? This truck has NEVER done this before I replaced the tranny. It always ran great. It has 138,000 on it. Could the tranny be affecting the fuel problem?? Email me directly at girlofsteel37@yahoo.com thanks!!
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