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Let's keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit. Thanks!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Do you have any other car problems that are easier to fix? No, really sometimes odd things are related.
I'm going to be buying a used Suburban in the near future. Looks like I can afford the '01 -'04 models. Are there any years to stay away from? Basically, what years had the least amount of problems? After searching this forum it seems like they have electrical problems,tranny issues and fuel pump issues...anything else?? I wish I could afford a newer one but this economy is killing me and the family is getting bigger. Thanks for your time.....
Sean
I'd make sure you figure out which seating arrangement works best for your family, and buy a vehicle with the correct seats. Too difficult to find someone to swap after the fact. For my family and our 2 suburbans over about 15 years, it's been the bench seats worked best.
The engine light is probably coming on because the engine is going so slow that the alternator is not charging very much. That's to be expected.
This truck has a history of inadvertent starting probs.
When it starts it runs perfectly; no hesitation, no backfires, no stalls.
Once in awhile though, it would start then immediately stall.
At those times it would take many tries and sometimes some wait time until it started finally.
Last week it stopped starting altogether.
No cranking at all and very little electricity to the truck.
Replaced the battery and cleaned the VERY corrode cables.
Removed and checked the starter. It passed.
Now I have good power to the truck.
Dash lights work. Headlights work. Wipers work. Brake lights work.
But no ignition, no sound from fuel pump, no turn signals, no reverse lights.
I checked all the fuses in both boxes and all look good.
Don't know how to check the module thingies in the under-hood fuse box.
I thought maybe a bad ignition switch so I replaced that and I think I put everything back the way I found it.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
B
They're old!
lol
It has security but I think that's only for the radio.
Besides, why would that effect the reverse lights and/or turn signals.
Thanks though.
B
Take me for instance, I bought my 1990 2500 suburban with over 300k on the odometer in February and have have no problems with it.
Also, the late 90's and early 2000's didn't have a very refined interior going on in concerns to Chevy trucks, but you bought to carry people and haul things which it should do admirably.
I was wondering if anyone knew how to tell what type of brakes my suburban has short of removing them and measuring them.
Its my family's only vehicle at the moment so I can't take them off then go to the parts store.
Its a 1990 3/4ton 2wd with a 5.7L engine and turbo 400 trans. Autozone is calling for either a JB5 or JB7 front caliper.
Thanks for the help
I replaced, O2 sensor, TPS sensor, Map sensor, brand new cap, brand new fuel filter, and then noticed I had antifreeze dripping from my exhaust pipe. I went ahead and replaced my intake gasketts and was pretty good except when it warms up.
It drives reasonably well cold except sometimes a bit gutless when taking off, when it is fully on the other hand the idle keeps switching from low to high and is constantly dying. Very wierd is that when I try to restart the engine the timing is way advanced. I know the computer controls timing and that the only way it can do that is by varying the spark along the width of the terminals in cap, not much advance ( is this accurate?) I figured if I placed the distributor in just a little off from where it originally was and that was the computers method of advance it could try to advance to the point that the spark might miss the terminal (am I even on the right track here). I have gone back and checked my marks on the manifold and distributor and it lines up perfectly, I cannot imagine that I could have put it back in more than 1/32 inch from it's original placement, I am beginning to think it may have been having timing trouble before I took out the diributor and is just a continuing of that problem, does the computer have a dead mechanical set timeing or is it a passive sytem for determining the timing?
I have read that there is a timing bypass wire that you may unplug to set the timing, I guess this resets the computer back to its starting point anyone know ehere to find thid wire and exactly what they say to do?
We have a 2003 Chevy Suburban. We bought it in 2005, so I don't have service records all the way back. I probably don't do as good a job of maintaining this thing because a.) I don't know how to do it; b.) I can't always afford it when it should be done (not a great money manager either). At this point, I'd rather try to learn how to fix it than ignore it and risk something happening to my family. It may be nothing, but I can't afford to pay someone to tell me if it is nor not, so here I am.
Over the past week or so, my wife has been noticing a rattling sound coming from what she says is under the car, below the drivers seat. I just heard it for myself today and it really doesn't sound good. I have NO clue what I'm looking at under the car... just recently learned how to change oil and brakes - yes, I'm new to vehicle repair. Therefore, ANY advice (even if it's, "Dude, this is too much for you right now, take it to the dealership and figure out how to pay for it," is greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys,
David.
Car not moving, engine idling?
Car not moving, rev engine and rattling frequency change?
Car moving, rattling in frequency with tire rotation?
I guess without hearing it, I might suspect a fuel pump, muffler baffle came loose, airshock pump (if you have that option).
I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Were you planning on taking the vehicle in to be diagnosed? Please keep me posted on any updates.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Thanks for any guidance you can offer. My husband is out of the country currently so he can't look at any of this. It seems to be getting worse so I don't want to end up stranded with our 3 kids. Thanks!!
They will not work if I try manually turning them on, or when you open a door, or when you turn off the ignition.
When they are not working, the other problem i noticed is that the Horn will not sound, when you lock the doors with the remote - It is supposed to sound when you hit the lock button 2 times.
When I am driving I will hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area.
The lights will work after I hear the click sound.
Not sure if it is related, but another problem that recently started, is when I turn the ignition off, the radio is supposed to stay on for 10 minutes, or until you open a door.
It turns off as soon as the ignition is turned off - This is not intermittent, it does it all the time.
Any thoughts?
Best-
Sarah, GM Customer Service
Thanks
But now things are changing. Finally Chevrolet realizes the practical value of folding seats and will have them on the 2015 model which supposedly is coming out Spring of 14.
Can't wait.
Anyway - if you need to find a used door go to
http://www.car-part.com/index.htm
and type in your year/make/model and your zipcode and it will search the salvage yards in your area for the part. I did a quick search and it looks like 2006 - 2009 might fit your burb.
Good luck in your search.
IGN E 10 AMP
IPC/DIC 10 AMP
RADIO 15 AMP
If your gauges and radio are working then it's probably not a fuse. Your lights are not actually bulbs but LEDs built into the different gauges and dash displays. I don't think they are serviceable but you can pull the instrument cluster and see if they are removeable. An easier solution might be to just call your dealer and ask the service/parts folks there if they can be replaced.