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What state do you live in? I may give you scrap value for this car.
If you spend the money to fix it, not sure why you would then trade it immediately. You would do better trying to sell it privately as is.
Oh, and the people who write edmunds trade-in values smoke crack. The only way it would be worth that much is if it has no more than 40k miles.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
You've got to add an alignment charge to that list, as when you replace those struts, it will need re-alignment.
I've never had an ABS pump go bad, I'm wondering if the problem is something else like low brake fluid.
If rust has attacked those two areas, I guess I would question where else has it rusted that isn't far behind? What are they going to do to fix it, weld some metal plates?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
That's easy to say... I know decent cars under $4K are hard to find... Good luck with it.
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Depending on the condition of your Miata miles etc, it could very well be totalled.
On the other hand, if it's a nice car otherwise it may be worth fixing and keeping.
Trade in value with a blown engine will be next to nothing. The store taking it in will have to assume the worst money wise and will pay you accordingly.
I just ordered some ink on Ebay and placed the order Wednesday night, it shipped on Thursday by USPS and was in my mailbox in Ohio Saturday. It shipped from Oregon.
I don't see the delay in getting parts. How fast does your Lexus dealer get it? Two days? Or do they FedEx Next Day everyday?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The point I was trying to make was the fact that I have never ever seen a MAF sell for
$1500.
Maybe the engine isn't seized. Who gave you this information, and based on what testing and/or demonstration to you?
If the engine is truly ruined, then the car is worth whatever a nice clean one is selling for MINUS all the parts and labor to make your car like that nice clean one....so, from your numbers I'd say right now you're sitting on a few thousand dollars, tops, in its present condition.
I doubt a dealer would take the car in trade unless he has a spare engine lying around...and even then, he will low-ball you mercilessly, since he is opening up a can of worms.
And as to the last point about rust and rot attacking the rest of the car....thats exactly what i was thinking. Northwestern Pennsylvania winters being what they are.
Thank you guys
Thanks for your feedback!
For instance, tires, brakes, struts/shocks, waterpump/coolant repair/flush, tune up, transmission fluid, etc, etc.
Mechanically pretty decent. Just had the spark plugs and wires as well as the control arm bushings replaced, cooling system and transmission were both flushed and filled in the past year or so, tires still have about 75% of their life left. It needs pads and rotors front and rear (which I can do myself), and it's still on it's original struts/shocks, starter, alternator, etc, so I suppose those components are on borrowed time. It has the rocker panel rust that's typical of these vans, but it'll probably be another year or so before that looks too terrible.
Your thoughts?
So ... would I put $2k into a $2500 car? Nope. Would I put it into a $3500 car? hmmm... tough one. Would really need to be confident that the rest is OK. And if that rust is starting.... forget it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
One can't ... one must simply wait for wisdom to appear, which, for young males, isn't until after age 30 or so.
One would hope that some mentor would sit the young man down with pen, paper and a calculator and do the arithmetic. No plainer map of disaster could be shown to him.
Obviously, he has beat the crap out of this car and now wants to pawn the shattered remains off on someone. With all the mods, trade-in value would be next to nothing.
Too bad someone didn't steal it.
Okay, now for the solution. Yes he has to put a clutch in it, then pay it down until his loan matches market value ($7500?) spiff it up mightily and put it on Craigslist---his natural marketplace for this type of car.
Then he's out and next time, next loan, maybe he'll buy a car that he doesn't have to "recreate" with mods.
I've heard many cases where such things are prearranged so that you don't forget any important personal belongings in the vehicle before it gets stolen.
I've also heard of restaurants catching fire under similar circumstances.
No matter what anyone says, this RSX owner is going to do what he wants to do. Hopefully he trades for one of these:
Do not waste your breath. Anyone who would sink $23K into his only driver is not thinking straight.
BTW, he will probably get nothing in trade-in for his Acura as it is soooooo heavily modified no dealer will touch it. He would be better off selling it on the open market.
And may be that is where to start. Sell the Acura and buy a beater to fix up. Just as much fun. Loads cheaper!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If that has the ATTS system some Preludes had, that clutch is an absoulte B***H to replace! I'ld like to see you tackle one of these! I know I sure wouldn't!
I really do lean heavily on the latter, though. In my controversial opinion, folks who can't turn a wrench should be driving stock factory cars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Replaced pads and rotors front and rear myself a few weeks back for about $200 in parts. Last week the R front hub assembly gave out, and I was able to replace that with the help of my brother-in-law for just the cost ($110) of the part.
While we working on the hub assembly, I took a moment to evaluate how bad the rockers were getting. Poked my finger at a spot to see if it was spongy, and my finger went right through. :surprise: Uh oh.
Still need to get the rear bumper repaired after someone ran into it in a parking lot a couple weeks back; at least that's covered under insurance.
Game plan is to get it through the winter (fingers crossed) and then trade it away on a 1-2 year old used van. Would love an Odyssey, but the budget will most likely dictate a Grand Caravan or Town & Country.
Thanks to you both for your input.
I ask all of this because I would always suspect valve seals before rings. Much cheaper and easier to fix AND much more likely to go bad before rings.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
At the honda dealership I was offered $3,800 for my trade-in and I managed to negotiate the price of a honda accord 2011 SE to $20K.
Should I trade in the car or repair it and try to save a big down payment in couple of years?
Thanks for your advice.
If the 'control arm' problem does not manifest itself with unusual tire wear or steering issues (in other words, if you don't notice any problems), perhaps that could be deferred until you are ready to bail.
While it is true that your car will continue to depreciate, probably being worth no more than $1500--$2000 in two years, this depreciation + the $800 repairs ($1800+800 = $2600) will still be considerably less than $300 a month X 24 = $7200.
EDIT: I have to agree with gbrozen below, however, that you were offered a pretty good deal it seems.
My New Opinion -- if the new car payments would be a burden and you feel desperate about it, then HOLD 'EM; if you can work the payments okay and you don't like driving a somewhat beat-up car, then FOLD 'EM.
That's HIGH trade-in value for your car WITHOUT all those problems. So its more like a $2500 car at best.
And, according to Edmunds, there are no incentives on the Accord right now and invoice is over $21k.
So it sounds to me like the dealer is losing on your deal. Again, I would jump on it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I just spent on the new tires and brakes $1,300 but spending additional $800 made me wonder if its worth it or I be better off with a trade in.
I negotiate every day at my job and I think I got a fantastic deal with this one.
I don't care about image or anything like that just from an economic perspective, what is better for my family's bottom line.
Thanks again.
BTW, Honda has now 1.9% financing on their 2011 honda accord for 36-60 months and $750 cash back on the 2011 accord.
I'm a little reluctant to sink more money into this car, which is probably worth $1000 tops. Should I repair it and pray nothing else goes wrong with it, or give her our used Pontiac Vibe (an '04 which is running just fine) and buy a newer car for ourselves? We could also pay the $400 repair and then try to sell it. What say you, wise ones?
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
The most I would do, if you're sure that car still has another 30,000 miles left in it, is to replace the windshield, bang out the hood (or get a replacement from a junk yard), and put the tires on it. Then, just keep your fingers crossed.
Motivation to do well in school, get a good job, so you don't have to ride around in a crappy $1000 beater when you grow up?
Sorry.. not in the "buy the kid a new car" camp... and, I've got a 17-yr-old..
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- that will buy you time, to shop and negotiate on an ultimate replacement vehicle. You'll undoubtedly save that much or more in your negotiations, because you aren't hurried and the salesman knows you are a distressed buyer.
- your ability to sell for anything is minimal if non-inspectable and a broken windshield. With a windshield and mechanically sound, someone will pay 500 to a thousand or more for it.
- it's a college environment, any piece of crap is acceptable. Who really cares what it looks like?
I think your daughter's preference, and how much she'll drive her car in grad school, should be considered, but your preference should prevail. My wife and I have been through this with our kids. Sometimes our decision was greeted positively, and other times less so. Fortunately, which car was never a serious issue, while whether to have a car in college was, at times.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
+1!
One negative is that somebody on a tight budget will be deprived from buying a cheap set of wheels.