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Pls reply asap, as I meet the seller on wednesday (EST).
The agreed price is ~$10.5k. Any suggestions on whether its a good or bad price.
06/04/2010 40,717 Phillipsburg Easton Honda Phillipsburg, NJ
Front axle(s) replaced/repaired
Recommended maintenance performed
Drivability/performance checked
08/17/2010 45,474 Phillipsburg Easton Honda Phillipsburg, NJ
Drivability/performance checked
Left axle replaced
Steering/suspension checked
It is also possible that the rebuilt axle was itself defective and needed to be done again.
First question:
Do you agree that Saturn parts is an issue in the short term and will only get worse? I know things like oil filters will be around for awhile, but I wonder why the independent shop didn't want to take it on.
Although Saturn itself has been out of business for several years now, the one Chevrolet dealer that didn't hesitate to quote a price and availability for the engine and its parts seem to indicate that parts aren't a problem.
Second question: I am of the opinion that replacing the engine (5K+) is money that would be better spent toward a replacement. The same money could for example buy a 7-8 year newer Honda Civic Hybrid, a manufacturer that isn't out of business or will be any time soon. I have a family member whom has offered to help me financially but insists on getting estimates on the engine replacement and anything else the car needs. I have been disagreeing saying the money would be better spent replacing the car. A friend at the Chevrolet dealer, he is their fleet manager, agrees with me. What is/are your opinion(s)?
Thanks very much for your time and attention.
Mark
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Now, I got an '04 Malibu Max with 125k miles and for the most part, has treated me very well with regular maintenance. During my 2nd month, someone ran into my rear bumper in a parking lot while I wasn't there and gave it a nice tear and cracked the tail light (it still works). I also need to replace the shocks and struts. I am pegging all this at a about $1600 in total costs to get it back to a nice condition. I question is that, in your opinion, is it worth it to fix those things or trade in and go for another car. This is the first year I have no payment on it so that is making me waiver.
I appreciate your insight.
If you put that $1600 into the car now and only drive it for another year, you're probably ahead of the game financially vs buying another vehicle. Get 2 more years out of it and you're that much more ahead.
I assume you've kept up on other maintenance issues, and are not driving around a car who's transmission is acting funny, for instance?
Thank you.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
or
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The only real repairs I've had to do was replace a coolant temp sensor for about $100, and rear sway bar links (which I did myself just for the cost of parts; maybe $50). I've been pretty good about keeping up with the maintenance; replaced the pads and rotors on all 4 myself about 30K miles ago, replaced the trans fluid at about 75K miles, regular oil changes about every 5K miles, cooling system has been flushed once a couple years ago.
I'm overdue to replace the plugs (due at 110K), and I should replace the serpentine belt just as a PM item (still the original belt), and figure I should replace the all the hoses as PM as well (also originals). I'm also due to replace the trans fluid and flush the cooling system again. Never replaced the brake fluid, although the manual says I should have. At this mileage, I assume the shocks/struts are on borrowed time. No timing belt to replace, at least. Tires should be good for another 20-30K miles, I'd guess.
The body is in decent shape, with scattered scratches appropiate for an 8 year old car. The front bumper cover is cracked and could stand to be replaced (tangled with a dumpster and lost), and there's a pretty good scuff on the back bumper from rubbing up against a guardrail, but I'm not necessarily married to fixing these cosmetic items. If I chose to though, I'd guess MAACO could straighten things out for about a grand.
I reckon I can address the immediate required maintenance and preventive maintenance items for roughly $500-750. I'll admit to having the "hotsies" for a new(er) car though, and I'd guess my car is worth roughly about $5k on a trade (if I address the cosmetics).
My question to you: What would you do? Fix it, detail it, and continue to drive it awhile longer? Trade it while it still has some value and before the miles get scary-high? Are there other potential upcoming maintenance issues for my car I'm overlooking?
Thanks!
I would say to keep it and run it up to around 150K, since you have already broken the 100K threshold and thus affected resale considerably already.
The cosmetics are only important if you sell it, so that's up to you.
I don't think the car has run its useful life yet and even if you have a few repairs in the future, no way that's going to add up to $350 a month car payments!
So maybe in the Spring of 2015, you can start nosing around for a new car!
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Please let us know what you decide to do.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
A couple of days ago my wife was stopped at a light when a SUV hit the Acura from behind. Fortunately, no one was hurt, which is the most important thing, and the other driver readily admitted fault. The other driver's insurance company declared our car totalled, claiming that it would cost over $7,000 to repair it. They offered $4,005 if we sign over the title to them, and $3,675 if we keep the car.
A friend suggested a body shop that his family has used in cases similar to ours. This shop is family owned, seems honest and has been in business for many years. They gave me an estimate of $4,028 to repair the car, with used parts. The owner located '99 TL parts from a car the same color as ours.
The insurance company was adament that they'll only pay $3,675, so we'd have to cover the difference if we chose to have the car repaired. My wife and I are the only licensed drivers in our household. Although the TL is a third car, we like it, and it's useful to have an extra car. We could eliminate the third car or replace it, but had no plans to do either before this accident.
We're debating whether to pay the $353 out-of-pocket to have our TL repaired. It's certainly not much money, but we had no fault. Should we just rationalize this small expense as a cost of driving? Your thoughts/suggestions?
Looks like we're gonna keep it in the stable until the wheels fall off...or until it strands her. And then I'll get the phone call..."get me into a new vehicle...NOW"!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
The Sienna was declared a total lost, and the other driver's insurance company offered up the standard "the car is only worth $XXX, take it or leave it". Bad offer. Both my daughter and SIL are lawyers. So he proceeded to built a case for how, due to her missing time from work, being in the trimester of her pregnancy, him having to take off, etc, etc, how insulting that offer was. After they had a chance to reconsider, they agreed to his offer which was $5K more than what the initial offer was for.
I would push back on the insurance company. As I hinted at earlier, that's only their first offer; probably not their best and final. You should not be out any $$$ at all because of someone else's mistake.
In addition what I said in the earlier post, I would seriously consider getting the car repaired for the $353 out-of-pocket expense. You know the history of the car. If it gives you one or two more years of service, you're ahead of the game.
FWIW, a coworker had almost the exact same thing happen to his Accord, and the dollar amounts were close to yours. He bought it back from the insurance company and it repaired at a local body and frame shop. I think he drove that car for another 4 or 5 years.
If you fix the car, it's still a "total" and in reality you will suffer a loss in value by fixing the car! (what a world!)
All this has to be balanced against the fact that you are not likely to find a highly reliable replacement for your car for $4000.
If you were planning to buy a new car anyway, well then, this was the wake-up call.
I'll try to lean on the insurance company a little harder by going up the chain of command.
I found two '99 Acura TLs for sale by dealers within 50 miles of me. The asking price for one, with 108,400 miles, is $4,999. The second, with 140,000 (2,600 less than our), is priced at $3,900. Both exceed the settlement that was offered to us,
I'll keep looking to build my case. In addition, for whatever it could be worth (maybe nothing), I have complete records of all maintainance and repairs, which I can submit. Also, I wonder whether there is any value to the fact that our's is a one-owner car. I know that, all else being equal, I'd rather buy a one-owner car versus one that's had multiple owners.
Your best defense is of course an independent appraisal, but that costs almost as much money as you are trying to gain in the first place. Next best defense is good comparables that you find--but be careful, because they will retort that these are only "asking prices".
Getting price guide print-outs might help if you pick the higher price guides, like Kelley Blue Book or NADA (www.nadaguides.com).
It all comes down to, what we used to say in the Army "Are you sure this is the hill you want to die on?".
So that means--how much time and effort are you willing to put into this. If your sense of justice is burning hot, then pour it on.
I had a similar incident about 2.5 years ago, I decided to take the money and say goodbye to the old car.
Best thing one can do if forced to drive a car with a salvage title, is to make a photo record of the damage so as to re-assure people----unless of course it really was an awful wreck, then don't DO that!
Exactly, which is also why hiring a lawyer also makes no sense when the difference in dispute is a only a few hundred dollars.
I checked the NADA price guide and mentioned to the supervisor of the insurance adjuster that the value was several hundred more than their settlement offer. He responded that his company doesn't go by the values published in the guides, but, rather, by their own evaluation of comparables . How convenient!
I am trying to decide whether to fix the Malibu or get a decent used hybrid so the better mileage gas savings can go towards the monthly payments.
So far I have found:
a nicely maintained 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid with 100,000 km on it and a brand new battery.
OR
an in decent shape 2007 Prius with 90,000 km on it.
They are both $10,500 CDN.
Not sure what to do. They get about the same highway mileage (as posted by EPA and average user claims). Prius gets better in-town of course, but I don't do that much city driving.
The Civic Hybrid looks great, but I am nervous about the recent battery lifespan claims since the battery is $2000+ and the new battery means the old one was replaced after just 100,000 km. Some people are claiming theirs died at around the 30,000km mark. Yikes!
What could I expect in ongoing maintenance for the 2007 Prius or the 2009 Civic Hybrid?
(That will help me decide which will be the most economical including payments, gas and expected maintenance costs).
And, what kind of mileage would I realistically get with the Prius (including winter driving commuting across South Western Ontario with very little stop-and-go traffic? i.e. not Toronto)
FYI - The Malibu is costing me an average of $1700 a year to maintain (primarily replacing brake pads, rotors, tie rods, etc. due to the 40,000 km I drive each year).
p.s. Sorry for the cross-post. I just found this Fix Up or Trade Up thread
As for your choices, which car do you like better? If I could live with it, I'd probably opt for the Prius based on reliability and lower current miles.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
However, it's going to take you a long time to justify the expense of the Prius based solely on the improved gas mileage. You'll probably be getting 42 mpg rather than 32 mpg. That's only going to be about 100 to 125 gallons of gas saved for every 20000km you drive.
It's my opinion that the modern automobile is pretty much at the end of its useful lifespan at 225,000 miles. In other words, sure, you may see some still running, and doing really well out there, but statistically, at the 225,000 mile mark, that car is essentially an 85 year old man playing tennis on a hot day after smoking a pack of cigarettes and eating a cheeseburger.