Dodge Dakota Crew Cab - V

myersed · July 2000

I suggest viewing http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/
Select Vehicle & Equipment Information" under Car safety. Then select Tech Service bulletins or Recalls.

I have had better luck with the selection window on the left side of the screen by entering 2000, Dodge Truck, Dakota and leaving the last selection blank.

Note the new April Recall Update on the main page. It contains a Dodge Dakota Recall for 1999 and 2000 Tow Hitch fractured receiver mounts. I mention it because it is not in the TSBs.

A source for the details of a TSB is www.alldata.com for a fee however.

impy2 · July 2000

I tried some things you guys told me about my spark knock problem, but nothing worked. (of course it is not anyones fault) I have the 2000 club cab sport with 4.7 Liter V8, 5-speed, loaded with the tow package and all the heavy duty service stuff. (2500 miles) I have used every kind of 87 octane fuel. (exxon, chevron, citgo, BP, go mart) I cannot get rid of my spark knock. I can hear it throughout the whole RPM range especially under hard acceleration and hill climbing. Just for kicks I tried a tank full of 93 octane. (I know it is not recommended) I wanted to see if that cured it so I could at least rule out low octane as a problem. The truck still suffered from spark knock, even with the 93 octane. Not quite as bad, but nothing to be happy about. I feel it is time to take it to the dealer. What exactly could be wrong. What will the dealer do to correct it. The truck runs great, accelerates smooth, idles smooth, never hesitates, and has plenty of power. It just sounds like "marbles in the hubcaps" under the hood. Would a different thermostat help, such as a 180 degree. I really do not want to do that, because that truck is designed to run on a 195 degree thermostat. I am just curious how the dealer would fix this. Thanks guys

bookitty · July 2000

Meyer, thanks for your very informative posting re
the NHTSA web site. I bookmarked it for future reference.

Bookitty

bcarter3 · July 2000

I have followed all of the Dakota topics for the past 10 months and thanks to all the great information posted to them I feel that I am well prepared for the upcoming purchase of a new SLT ClubCab. Every visit here has been enjoyable and informative. I hope to order before the end of August. I have a question regarding the bumper fascias. The info I have is that the ClubCab SLT has gray fascias regardless of body color. The Dodge website indicates that the QuadCab SLT has body colored fascias. Is that correct? I really like the SLT colors but may have to choose a color that would allow me to change to Sport fascias later. My assumption is that the fascias are molded from colored materials to match the body colors. I could just paint the gray ones but I don't think it would be too durable. Appreciate any info.

iowabigguy · July 2000

"The info I have is that the ClubCab SLT
has gray fascias regardless of body color"
This is true for 2000 SLT Dakotas. If it is true for the 2001 models is unknown, supposedly the fascia is changed on the 2001 model. I don't believe the color is molded in on the sport models but rather is painted on. There is a special type of additive they put into paint when it is applied to the flexible bumper covers, I imagine a good body shop could take care of that for you. I considered that for my 2k Quad (driftwood) but now that I've lived with the truck for a while I've gotten used to the gray. Another thing I've considered is a chromed metal fascia, look into the magazine Sport Truck or Truckin. The additional chrome really looks good (of course in my opinion, I'm sure others will disagree) and has the openings for the factory fog lamps. The full chrome treatment would give the Dakota a more unique look and differentiate it from the ever increasing number of look-alike Dakotas and Durangos. Rick

2drive · July 2000

My money is on the likelyhood that the 2001 Dakota Sport will have a one-piece bumper/fascia design similar to the new Ram Sport design that came out with the Ram mid-model updating.

themacguy · July 2000

I'm assuming you used a can of either Chevron Techron or BG-44k. This would virtually eliminate the possibility of a fuel delivery or carbon problem. After that, it's probably spark related. Could be a knock sensor malfunction (computer), a loose wire or problem spark plug (pretty complex on the 4.7 engine) or something related to that.

I had a very similar problem for a year or so on my first (1983) Porsche 944. It's knocking drove me crazy, and I replaced EVERYTHING in the fuel and ignition systems for about a grand. I finally had isolated it to the Motronic engine control unit, then my mechanic cousin noticed someone had 'hot-wired' one of the cooling fans into the Motronic wiring loom... anyway, he fixed it with a 10 cent resistor from Radio Shack and a simple rewiring. Your's will hopefully be somewhat simpler to find (& fix) than that.

qc2001 · July 2000

thanks for letting all of us 2001 quaders with the first build date. now i can start finalizing with some of our finances.
wantaquad: i ordered mine directly after my 200 order was deleted. my salesman sent me the new pages. new options are as follows;

-new power heated/folding side mirrors
-front fascia
-15" and 16" cast al. wheels
-p255/60r16 on 4x2
-p265/70r16 on 4x4
-ip w/ improved h3eater and ac controls
-corporate steering column(?)
-front door trim panels
-power outlet in floor console(buckets only)
-illuminated center console
-leather seats(buckets only)
-interior trim colors(dark slate and taupe)
-load shedding battery
-SKIM security system(microchip in key?)
-electronic transfer case(dial on ip)
-single-stage air bag
-electronic PRNDL in 3.9 and 5.9 engines
-AM/FM/Cassette/CD radio
-prem. sound cd
-6 button remote radio controls
-homelink system in overhaed console

hope that answers your question.

hoping to see pricing come out within next week.
i want to join the owner group as soon as possible with 2001 info

steve234 · July 2000

I was looking at some news items and found an article that interested me because we had been discussing fly-by-wire throttle on the 4.7L earlier in these forums. An auto group says that within the next 5-8 years, we will be seeing a move to completely fly-by-wire controls, including the throttle, braking and steering. The concept is that in the future, they will make only one model and it will work in both left hand and right hand drive. You just plug the steering wheel into the appropriate side of the dash. They are predicting a move to electric brakes and the elimination of hydraulics. Of course, electric brakes could also become regenative braking and maybe eliminate the alternator? The word is that Mercedes was going to have a FBW car by 05.
Themacguy:I had wondered if your handled was PPC related. I have a 160Mhz 6360. Not in your league with that G4. My wife wants to get an Imac 400Mhz DVD G3, but I have a problem going from my 17" Sony to a 15". I have also done some road racing. I ran SCCA 'C' Mod against Porsche 914s in a 72 Mercury Comet. I had tweaked the suspension ala 'Bullit'. I could blow the competion away where I could power out, but the tight corners killed me. Have you ever been to Hallett? Maybe we could hold an Owner Rally there and have some real fun.

impy2 · July 2000

Thanks for your reply. I need to correct myself in a previous post. (#52....the one you replied to. Read it again if you can) I said that the spark knock was still present with 93 octane. After about a using 1/4 tank, the spark knock is completely gone using 93 octane. Now I am stuck between a rock and a hard place. The owners manual says not to use premium, but the engine sounds much better. It says to use only 87 octane, but I get spark knock. With only 2600 miles, wouldn't you say I could rule out a carbon problem. And also rule out the spark plugs as a problem. What does this tell you that It does not "ping" using 93 octane. I would say my timing needs advanced just a little. (if that is possible. I have seen vehicles with no timing, idle, or air fuel adjustments......my dad's Mark VIII and my old Grand Am Quad 4 was like that.) Sorry to drag this subject so far. Thanks for your patience!!!!

impy2 · July 2000

I just got some new info. (you may already know how to do this) I found out that on the 2000 Dakota, if you put your key in the ignition and cycle it from "off" to "on" three times. (ending with the key in the "on" position.....in other words. "off" "on" "off" "on" "off" "on") It will display any stored trouble codes on your digital trip meter. I did do this to see if I could find anything related to my problem. It displayed the following...."P done" This means program done checking.....no trouble codes found. This is actually good news for me. I get a feeling that the spark knock I am hearing may be considered "normal" according to the owners manual. But it sure sounds real nice running 93 octane. I am switching back to Chevron 87 as soon as I run this tank out. I want the service department to hear it and let them make a decision. The only thing bad about severe spark knock is that the warranty may not cover any damage caused by it. I cannot figure that one out!!! I have 2600 miles, surely the damn 3/36000 will cover that.

themacguy · July 2000

impy - yeah, spark advance is a good possibility. Also, consider that one of the main reasons to run higher octane is to get a more even 'flame front' for complete combustion in high performance engines. That could / would mean higher compression engines (but non-turbos). That could also be less combustion space - or MORE carbon on the piston / dome surface. I'm guessing you've already tried a can of Chevron Techron or BG 44-k? If so, it's probably ignition related, though the can of 'fix-it' would be worth the 10 bucks to try to clean all the injectors, diaphragm, lines and CARBON out of the 'possibilities' before it goes into the mechanic. I've known a case or two (once was ME) where a (disreputable) mechanic did a $500 plus 'repair' job on a car and his apprentice told me later all he did was run a can of 44-k through it with half a tank of gas and it was fixed. :-(

steve234 - I'm using a 6360 even as I post tonight - only thing is its bus speed won't support a G3 upgrade card very well, but other 603e & 604 models will... I was an Apple dealer for 5 years and I still work on em as a hobby (& for certain gov't. 'groups') - it's hard not to like a 'real' computer that smiles at you when you turn it on. ;->

Hey, Hallett is a GREAT choice for the track part of a group meet - with that resort we Porsche nuts used for a national event a couple of years back: Lake of the Ozarks or some such, in NE Okla. as the main event 'place.' It's pretty close to Branson - and I KNOW people would show up to an event there just for its proximity to Branson & Tulsa. It's easily one of the more scenic areas of the country. I'm guessing that we'd have to have rollbars for Hallett (but not cages) or something, maybe a bolt-in that we could buy (or develop)... I'll check into it. I used to race there in enduro karts at 145 mph back in the early 80's. Also drove my 944 there a couple of times and once I took a 928S up to nearly 160 on the longer of the straights... Smokin'! :-))

Keep in touch on the event deal - I'm ready to help put one together while bookitty's still with us. He's been married 42 years, and his heart can't hold out forever, though he's got a big one.

bookitty · July 2000

Jack, I am certain that my heart is okay. Remember
that I passed the ultimate stress check when my first Quad arrived with the incorrect gear ratio. It might last for another couple of weeks.

Bookitty

bpeebles · July 2000

(impy2) I cannot answer your question about PHYSICAL clearance for larger tires. However,Your Speedo will read EXACTLY correct after re-programming the onboard computer to reflect any new tire sizes.

This re-programming is MANDITORY to allow the ABS brakes to function properly. Since the speedo gets its signal from the very same sensor (located in the rear differential) it will also be corrected when the computer is re-programmed.

steve234 · July 2000

impy2 More than likely, your timing is off and needs to be adjusted. Your dealer should check the timing immediately when you tell him that you are pinging. On my 91 F150SC, I had the same problem. My original dealer couldn't/wouldn't solve the problem. I found another dealer with a superior service department. They found that the timing looked correct, but checked further and found that the timing marker was installed wrong. They remarked it and I have not had a problem since.

themacguy- I agree with everything that you said about Hallett. I was corner captain of number 2 when the track first open and it was a blast. Best fun was when the day was over and I got to test the curves on the way back to base. We ought to see if D/C would get involved for promotional purposes. BTW, I got hooked on macs by a friend named Mark Gabby. He sold, repaired and everything else on macs for more years than can think of. Unfortuneately, he has to go where the money is-IBM clone maintenance. I also have a brother-in-law that runs his publishing business on macs. Between those two, I get to hands-on every model that comes out.

steve234 · July 2000

themacguy: After thinking about it, I think you may be talking about Grand Lake/Shangri-la Resort. It is a great place for meetings. It is in NE OK and has an excellent reputation. Grand Lake would be a good location for a meet if you schedule ahead. If we do the lake, I'll bring my pontoon and give everyone tours of the lake. For all you uninitiated, Oklahoma has more water and shoreline than any state in the union(2000 miles more than the east and gulf coast combined). All the lakes in Oklahoma are man-made. Grand lake is the 3rd largest in water storage, but largest in shoreline. Because it is not a Corp lake, all the shoreline is privately owned and it is a playground for the wealthy and less than wealthy. There are scores of 40-60 ft yachts that ply the main body from every state. There are two paddlewheel tour boats (I think a double decker and a triple decker). It depends on what a person wants to do on a vacation, but I have to admit Oklahoma has variety. You can swim under a awesome waterfall one day and the next day ride dune buggies in the Little Sahara State Park. Now, off my tour guide soapbox, I like the idea of the KS/OK/TX area for the meet because it is central to both coasts and we should be able to arrange everything from road racing to four wheeling fun in this area. If anyone is curious about any particular information about the area, let me know and I can e-mail you some info.

rotondim · July 2000

I am the unfortunate owner of a 2000 Club Cab with
a 4.7l that had only 2000 miles on it when the oil
pump failed. My initial thought was that because
this is a new truck I should get a new engine.
This was echoed by the 5 star service department,
other members here, and even at the 800 customer
service center. Unfortunately I was told this was
not possible, the decision is made at a higher
level. I proceeded to escalate this issue well
above the service department and was told by DC
corporate that if the engine failed with less than
1000 miles the engine would be replaced. No matter how much pressure I tried to apply the answer was the same. We must break the engine down and repair it. What was found was that the crank shaft was scuffed by the bearings. No metal shavings were discovered anywhere and the engine looked in very good shape. The components that were replaced were the crank shaft, bearings, oil pump, and associated gaskets. I pushed to get the ringsreplaced but was told it wasn't necessary. When I walked into the service area and saw the engine removed from the truck sitting in the cradle with it gut's exposed I felt very ill. To make a long story short I finally got the truck back after 2
weeks. I drove it less than 1 mile and the check
engine light came on. The oxygen sensor had to be
replaced, probably got damaged when the engine was
pulled or put back in.

Needless to say I am not a DC fan at this point.
I have a few minor issues with the vehicle I assume are a result of performing the work that was done. I will schedule something in a few weeks when I discover all the little things that are wrong.

My experience tells me that DC does not really
believe in fostering there customers so that they
are repeat customers. The lack of customer service from DC corporate is amazing. Had DC stepped to the plate and done the right thing, replaced the engine, they probably would have me as a repeat customer. Chances are I will never buy another DC product and anyone I can persuade not to will never buy there product either.

bsparx · July 2000

Up to 11 pages of tsb's on the 2000 Dakota.

I've had the seat squeak, weatherstrip, and wheel grind, but fortunately not any of the Auto trans, oil pump, or leaf spring problems. 4.7 auto, 4x4, 3.92, CA emissions (lousy mpg).

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy.cfm

bsparx · July 2000

better link:
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/

use Dodge Truck, Dakota, 2000

Ben

ohc_baby · July 2000

Has anyone else noticed that the most recent TSBs are dated 1900?

impy2 · July 2000

I have come to the conclusion that I need my timing set on my 2000 Dakota. (view my previous posts for details) Does anyone know how this is done. I know how to set the timing on older cars. (use a timing light, aim it at the timing mark on the crank pulley, and adjust the distributor until the desired degree is reached) The Dakota seems to be quite different. I was just curious how it was done. 4.7 liter V8.

playhard_50 · July 2000

I just recently purchased a Dakota X-cab. I'm
looking to get an over-the-rail Line-X liner. My
question is: does the over-the-rail liner prevent
me from putting a cap on at some point in the
future?

The Line-X dealer said he didn't THINK it would be
a problem, but he wasn't too convincing.

Any first hand knowledge or experience would be
appreciated. (For those of you who may have read this question in the "Owners - Accessories" area, I apologize for the double post. There seems to be a little more traffic over here.)

Thanks,

Joe

iowabigguy · July 2000

You sais "I have come to the conclusion that I need my timing set on my 2000 Dakota. The Dakota seems to be quite different. I was just curious how it was done. 4.7 liter V8."
The timing is set by the computer based on the output of various sensors. I think it is time to go see your 5 star dealer. You obviously have something that is not right. With the high price of gas I've been using the cheapest stuff around and have never heard any spark knock. I have 2wd 5spd 4.7 quad. Rick

xena1a · July 2000

I'm currently vacationing in Colorado and had an opportunity to take a Dakota 4WD CC 5-speed with the 4.7L for a test drive. I came away very impressed with the truck. Seems to have decent build quality, nice interior, roomy, and that engine is fantastic. I currently drive a '99 Mazda B3000 4WD and have been happy with the truck overall, but could use extra power for my road trips from AZ to CO. The 4.7L would certainly take care of that problem. Hmmm, decisions, decisions. I believe I've become smitten with the Dakota. It's a very nice truck...

ford_bii · July 2000

I know from my experience with over the rail liners on Ford trucks that they generally work great with a cap. You just have to use a hole saw to put 4 holes near the rail so you can mount the cap with C-clamps. The only problem is that over the rail liners generally rub the paint off the very edges where the liner hits the outside paint. Rubbed it straight down to the bare metal. I don't think I'd get another one. I guess it proabably depends on brand and fit, but the possibility is there. Otherwise, over the rail works great.

bpeebles · July 2000

(impy2) Just to add to what iowabigguy has stated, the 4.7L has NO ADJUSTMENTS on the basic ignition timing. Instead, the On-Board computer gets signals from a sensor on the side of the engine and uses a complicated algorithm to determine when each individual spark coil should be triggered. The algorithm takes inputs from a plethora of sensors (Engine temp, RPM, throttle position, air-density...etc) which is 'tempered' by past knowledge (The learning process of the computer) then fires a spark by triggering the coil for each specific plug.

BOTTOM LINE: There is virtually NOTHING a human can do with a timing light except watch the blinkin light. There are no specs. in the Dodge shop manual on what to even CHECK for! The dealer has a computer that plugs into a special connector found just above the brake pedal. With a TRAINED person running the machine, your problem should be located efficiently.

playhard_50 · July 2000

Does anyone have an aftermarket source for same-color (Patriot Blue) side molding for a 2000 club cab?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

impy2 · July 2000

O.K guys I am narrowing down my timing problem.
1.) I do not get any "pinging" when the engine is cold. It starts "pinging" when the engine has reached about 180 degrees.
2.) It does not "ping" if the outside air is below 50 degrees. (even if the engine is fully warmed)
3.) worst case of "pinging" is climbing a hill on a hot day with engine fully warmed (190-200 degrees) cranking between 2500 and 4000 RPM's with the pedal mashed to the floor. It sound really really bad if I come across this situation.

It goes to the dealer tomorrow. They told me I am out of luck if the computer has not stored any codes........That is BS!!! I obviously have a major problem. They may have to replace the PCM. I guess this is the "brains" of the truck.

Does anyone know if a high performance PCM is available for the 4.7 liter yet? I have heard it increases 20 to 30 HP. and 10 to 15 ft-lb of torque, but 92 octane is required. I do know that you replace the whole computer. (not just a chip) Any idea on price? is it worth it? If they have to replace my computer I may have them order the high performance PCM and I will pay the difference. (I am afraid the difference is going to be quite expensive) A PCM is available for the 318 and I was basing all those statistics on that.

quark99 · July 2000

Impy2-
I replaced the stock ECU with a Mopar Performance ECU on my 1999 R/T Neon. The changeout was easy, and will be easy on the Quad, judging by all the room you have under the hood. Price at my dealership was $265. (But don't pay your dealer.) Remember, the R/T Neon develops it's 150 HP using 92-93 octane, so REQUIRING it with the new ECU wasn't an issue. The size and complexity of all Mopar ECU's should be the same (maybe the diesel motor ECU is different), so it shouldn't be much more for the Quad. The cheapest Mopar stuff I've found is a www.kollerdodge.com (dealership back east). I paid $195, plus $12 shipping for that ECU. Think twice before you have to pay $5 more a tankful...see if the stock replacement ECU solves the problem. I DON'T think the 4.7l performance ECU is available yet, anyway...(I could be wrong) If you know differently, please let us know!
-quark

impy2 · July 2000

Where is the EGR valve on the 2000 Dakota with the 4.7 liter V8. My mechanic said that this is most overlooked component when it comes to diagnosting spark knock. ("pinging") He told me that the EGR valve should remain closed until the engine has warmed up. After the engine is warmed the EGR valve should open while accelerating. The harder the acceleration the more the EGR valve will open. He told me that if my EGR valve is not opening after the engine has warmed, this may be my spark knock problem. I guess the EGR valve lets some exhaust gas recirculate back through engine to cool the combustion chamber. Like I said before......It will not "ping" until the engine has fully warmed. This correlates to a malfunctioning EGR valve. It is going to the dealer tomorrow and I will mention this. I do know how to check the EGR valve, but I cannot find it!!!!! Thanks for everyones patience on this issue.

badassbob · July 2000

Has anyone had the Wheel Grind TSB fix performed??? Ive had it into my 5-Star Dealer complaining about it and they have dismissed it as the 31x10.50's scrubing the fender flares....It usually happens when you are manuvering slowly around in a parking lot going down hill with the steering wheel turned to the right...I know this is not a Rubbing sound but a grinding sound...But my complaint fell on def ears..Even took the Service manager for a ride and duplicated the problem at least 3 times is his parking lot...

So if anyone has had it, please post the reccommended fix, parts, etc and if it acually took care of the problem...Thanks in advance

Chad

bpeebles · July 2000

(impy2) I agree with your diagnosis, an Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve could stick and cause excessive combustion temperatures. Additionally, an EGR system is disabled until the engine is up to operating temperature. Both very good reasons that substantiate your conclusion.

Does the 4.7L have an EGR valve?
I will have to consult BOB (Big Orange Book...aka Dodge shop manual)

Some modern engines are so efficient they are designed WITHOUT an EGR system. The intent of an EGR system is to reduce the Ox (Oxides of Nitrogen) Perhaps the 4.7L does not have an EGR system.

An alternate diagnosis
I know that carbon build-up within the combustion chambers could also cause these symptoms. I believe I saw reference to this in the TSB listings (Technical Service Bulletin) Please review the following URLs;

http://www.alldata.com/pro/recallsbulletins/
-and-
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recmmy1.cfm

impy2 · July 2000

bpeeples- thank you for your follow up. Let me know what you find in the shop manual for the EGR valve. (you sound very knowledgeable when it comes to the Dakota.....I have read past posts of yours and value your opinions) Do you really think that with only 3000 miles on my truck, I could have carbon build up already? I got my truck back from the service dept. today.....They found no problems and no trouble codes. They did not hear any ping.........of course not!!!! I am taking a service rep for a ride on Wednesday. I can make the engine ping at the drop of a hat!!! I do believe the mechanic who test drove my truck was deaf. I picked up my truck a 7PM and within 5 minutes it was pinging. Too bad the service dept was closed. Thanks again!!! by the way....how did you use "boldface" letters. I cannot figure that out. I have also seen guys use different color font?

badassbob-I did exactly what you said. I drove slow, cut the wheel hard right, went down a hill. I tried other various manuevers but I did not hear any grinding. I have good clearence between the wheel flares and tires. I do have the 31" tires. Sorry I cannot help. Even it is true that your wheels are rubbing.....They shouldn't be. Your service dept sounds as good as mine. My mechanics are also deaf. By the way, If you have the 4.7 liter, do you ever hear any engine "ping" when climbing hills or under hard acceleration? (after the engine is warm) This has been my ongoing problem. The service reps never heard any "ping". I hear it all the time. I am supposed to take a service rep for a ride on Wednesday and point out to him what I am hearing.

bobemoto · July 2000

To make something bold, precede it by the letters:
less than symbol
b
greater than symbol

and follow it with the letters:
less than symbol
/
b
greater than symbol.

themacguy · July 2000

I've had one Porsche 944 and two Corvettes with a similar 'hot' pinging condition. All three had some sort of fuel 'boiling' problems. The fuel was cavitating (seems modern fuels are so full of additives this can happen pretty often) before it hit the carbs in the Vettes & f/i system in the 944. Fixed it by rerouting fuel lines in the 944. The two Vettes were different; the 78's fuel system was the reroute job, while the 75 had a glass fuel filter that got so hot it'd pull the skin off your fingers! The 944 ALSO had a 2nd fuel delivery problem - fixed by a 15psi pump.

quark99 · July 2000

I'm having my cranky power lock on my driver's side rear door looked at and/or repaired tomorrow. To the member with the "gremlins" in the power lock system...(where they unlock/lock mysteriously)...try your owner's manual. There's a procedure to disable/reset the lock system. If I remember correctly, it's a technique to stop the automatic lock feature that engages at 15 mph. Good luck, hope it helps!(If you haven't already tried it....)
-quark

quark99 · July 2000

>b/b<, or it helps if you follow instructions......

quark99 · July 2000

Voila! Knowing your math symbols helps, too..Doh!

bsparx · July 2000

badassbob-
My wheel grind started as soon as I had the truck home in February. It is most noticeable at low acceleration, on uphills, and especially while turning right. I've been to my "5 star" dealer 3 times. The first time, they performed an alignment. Next, they drove it and feigned deafness as well. The 3rd time, I drove it and the "noise man" recommended I wait 10,000 miles and see if it goes away. (!) I found the tsb about a week ago, and have an appointment to bring it in again...

Questions for you: Do you have the full-time AWD? (I do) Does the grind lessen or disappear in 4wd hi lock? (mine does) Does it lessen or disappear turning left? (mine does) Do you think it could be in the right side of the front drive axle? (I do). Do any 2wd dakotas have this? (I don't know, but I bet not) Once the tsb has been addressed, I will post again and let you know. I am in Oakland, CA.

nodsil · July 2000

Does anyone out there have an idea where I can install my 6 disc cd changer on my quad cab. I have been looking it over and have no idea where to put it. Need some help on this big-time. thanks.

badassbob · July 2000

bsparx----> I do not have the Full Time 4wd on mine and have yet to put it into 4wd hi or low...Now that you mention it, im going out in the "back yard" (3 acres worth) and do some testing...plenty of hills and grass...Mine does it at low speeds, uphill and down hill turning left and right...but never going straight...As far as the tire scrubbing...I imediatly shot that one to shreds when the "mechanic" brought it up...I told him if he could show me a spot on the fender flare that was crubbed, id belive him...Of course there were no scrub marks and he was definitly embarrased and pointed me the the service manager...

nodsil---> If you have the bucket seats, mount it into the armrest console...thats about the only thing its good for because its so deep and skinny...I mounted my alpin changer in there with Velcro with no problems and no skipping...If you have the bench seat, the only place i can see to mount one is to give up the storage in the glove compartment and mount it in there....Or possibly under the seat, depending on how tall the changer is...

Later

CHAD

nodsil · July 2000

Thanks Chad, I dont have the bucket seats, so I guess I will be giving up space on my glove compartment. I appreciate the response.

iowabigguy · July 2000

I don't know about clearance but have you looked under the back seat on the drivers side. There is room under the seat, enough for me to store a fairly good sized fitst aid kit. I've seen lo profile 6 disk changers that aren't as tall as my first aid kit.

impy2 · July 2000

I was looking under my truck today. There is some kind sensor or contraption on the top of my rear differential. It looks like it has some hoses or wires coming out of it. What ever it is, it looks like it is threaded into the top of the rear differential. Any clues to what this is. I have the limited slip differential, 4X4, and 3.92 axle ratio. I also noticed some oil seeping out around this sensor. (or whatever the heck it is) It does not look real wet with oil. It just looks damp. (like blowby) BOLD

jcody1 · July 2000

It is probably the antilock sensor.

96g11 · July 2000

I think the sendor you are talking about is the speed sensor. The dakota uses a sensor mounted in the rear differential instead of the transmission. Your dealer should tighten and apply anti leak compound or you will end up with a real mess. The hypoid gear lube is very sticky and hard to wash off.

bpeebles · July 2000

After looking thru the BOB,I Was unable to locate any reference to an EGR system on 4.7L.

I will continue to review the documentation on the 4.7L

It is hard to believe that carbon build-up is the cause at such a low a milage but i beleive that the TSBs mention it for the 2000 model year.

PS...I am a webmaster/programmer and HTMLer by trade... see my profile by clicking on the bpeebles above.Too bad EDMUNDS does not support the 'fancy' HTML tags!!

themacguy · July 2000

Not quite as weird as me, but different in a strange and eerily fascinating way. Yet neither of us is 'quite' in bookitty's league - yet. ;-)

bookitty · July 2000

Jack, when will the amateur "Weirdos" learn not to compete with or compare to the professional. Jack, this takes time, and I have been working on it long before you saw your first daylight. However, keep trying. You'll get there yet.

Bookitty

ferous · July 2000

Bookitty was around before "daylight"???

Dodge Dakota Crew Cab - V

Comments

I will continue to review the documentation on the 4.7L

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