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Chevy Silverado - Continued XIII

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Comments

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    They have those red bowtie thats is a brake light. I beleive performance products has em. I have definitly seen em

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Got my zaino just now woohoo

    Ryan
  • khharriskhharris Member Posts: 51
    00 Z71 ext cab LT with heated leather buckets,I'm a big o'l boy and kinda have to slide in and out and can already see thats going to be a problem on the leather,any suggestions.


    Kirk
  • khharriskhharris Member Posts: 51
    Any ideas on how much a good speaker upgrade helps,and does the premium system on a 00 LT have a seperate amp and if so how powerful is it.Any suggestions appreciated.


    Kirk
  • leathal02leathal02 Member Posts: 114
    that carmine color..isnt close to Maroon??
    nothing wrong with maroon....whoop..gotta love them aggies

    the bazookas..man i heard one in a buddy of mines 2001 super crew..damn sounded awesome and their pretty damn cheap too!!!!!!
  • dropperdropper Member Posts: 47
    We are the Aggies... The Aggies are we...
    True to each other... As Aggies cam be...

    leathal02, you can get an 'Aggies' hitch cover from MyTruckStore.com at the following:

    http://www.rstruck.com/mts/hitchcovers2.php3

    They also have the generic ones like the bowties (no gold ones) and light up ones. Just check out the index.
  • dropperdropper Member Posts: 47
    Supposed to be 'can', not 'cam'.

    Keith '91
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    Can't seem to find the links to pictures of your truck. If I recall, you got a black truck. Am I right?
    Got a question for ya.
    What do you do for your washing and waxing?
    Especially, what do you do when you find very minor scratches (see but can't feel with fingernail) in the clearcoat?
    What products do you find to be the one to use and where can these products be found?
    Ok,ok,ok, so I got several questions.
    My truck is a two tone deal with Indigo blue above trim and pewter below. You can see these minor scratches in the blue when the sun hits just right.
    Been to www.carcareonline.com and www.autosupermart.net and found some really good info. Just like to hear your two bits.
    Thanks, good day,
    Mitch
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    While Tim is on break, I will attempt to help you and he can verify when he returns...

    You find the answers to your questions at this link:

    http://www.malms.com

    To remove your scratches use the Ultra-Fine Polishing Cleaner followed by Malms Concentrated Carnuba Wax. These may be ordered at this link:

    http://www.malms.com/7.htm

    Another option may be found at this link:

    http://www.zainobros.com

    you can find testimonials and a lot of help under the Maint/Repair conference in Edmunds under Zaino users topic #1319 Zaino Car Care Experiences - Part 2 found at this link:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Maintenance&f=b&t=1418&s=125&e=225

    Hope this helps ya!!
  • genea3genea3 Member Posts: 15
    Tim,
    I had the same problem with the windshield trim when I installed the bug shield. At first the dealer did not want to fix it so I called the salesman and asked him to talk to the service dept. They used urethane adhesive to seal it. That took care of the problem.
    The a/c problem sounds like a relay.
    If you think the belt is causing the clicking spray a little water on it while the truck is running. (from a spray bottle) If the clicking stops you have a bad belt. If it doesn't it's not the belt. The 8 coils won't click unless you have a bad spark plug wire. The injectors will though. Bottom line - let the dealer figure it out.
    Hope this helps.
    Gene
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    You guys are really going to town here!

    TIMH: Dump you current deflector and get another.
    Mine is made by "Prime Design" and it works great. Close fit but you can still clean the hood all the way and it wraps all the way around to protect the top of the fenders. As far as your other problems go, take it to the nearest dealer and have them fix it. All that stuff is covered 'cept maybe the ping and then OBYONE's advice as to going with a hotter firing plug might solve it.

    KIRK: I know before I put on my fiberglass running boards, I was really crushing the seat each time I got into my rig. With them I can step up and sit down easlily with no problems. If you don't already have them, think about it, it might help.

    SUNROOFS: IMHO I would stay away from them if GM didn't install it. I've seen too many leaky interiors and/or wind noise with aftermarket installations. Once you cut that hole in your roof...your stuck!

    clay
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    seat covers for Leather?....but boards to get in and out with...then you don't have to slide...I don't need them...but they prevent me from sliding across the leather and crushing the corner...

    Clicks.....it's got to be something in the ignition or injectors....it's not lifters of exhaust gaskets....I know what that sounds like..

    Mitch,
    Oby pretty much summed it up......I like malms..and have used it long before Zaino was ever even heard of....not to say Zaino isn't good...just I like Malms look better.

    The ultrafine polish is great for what you mentioned....the #10 polish is great for black and dark colors that are already spotless. The wax goes a long way with just a small bit. People always cake wax on...no good....a super thin layer is all that is going to go on..period. Good looking cars come in the polish stage...the wax part just protects it from the elements.

    If you don't want to pay that much...Meguires Polish followed by #26 yellow wax is also a very good choice. If I had pewter,white,or another light color...I would not spend the money on malms or Zaino.

    I have two black cars and use two different systems for them.

    Malms for truck....3M hand glaze for the car....Galze only does one thing...enhance the shine...sometimes I put a coat of Malms on the Olds.

    While even a combination Cleaner/wax works well...I would not use it on a dark truck...especially if it needed a good polish.

    I know yawl have heard this before...but hey..he asked!!

    Sunroofs,
    If GM does not offer one by 2002...I will get the ASC...(wholesale of course)...and have it installed by pros I know who do GM show and concept cars...$1200 is OK for Regular off the street Joes.....but I am farr from Regular ..or Joe!

    LOL



    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ..as mentioned before also....I like to use a soft cloth to wash it..(no soap)...and hold a running hose over it the entire time to wash away the dirt as you go. Rinse the towel out frequently...and cut the end off the hose so the metal does not nick the car. Soak bad spots (bird poop) before washing to loosen the.."stuff!"...

    A chamois or a high pressure air hose to dry the car off works very well.

    Good Luck

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I used the car polish for clear coated paint on half of my hood and all i can say is DAMN!!! it looks great

    Ryan
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    do you have to twist arms in the Yukon topic to get them to listen to you about the mudflaps? I had to post there when someone had asked about buying a Yukon...see post #210 and #211 in topic 2799. I don't know what kind of reaction I'm going to get but there is nothing better than upsetting a bunch of LURDS. I'm sure red agrees with me...

    red
    you may be on to something on the zerks. I called the service advisor to ask the tech how many zerks did he install. Called me back and told me six or seven but no where near the eleven. I asked why did he pay the $50. He said that he figured I knew the truck as well as he did and didn't want to look anymore for the rest. He had spent over half an hour looking. Hmm...I guess I'll have to use a rack at a friends shop and check it out over the weekend. May end up costing me the refund of $50 and another $50 since there may not be 11 after all.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    using the placemark feature? Just wondering as mine doesn't seem to work...
  • tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    How often do you recommend a truck be waxed or polished? Also, how long after the build date or when should you consider your first wax? Mine is garaged if that makes a difference.

    Thanks!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    My placemarks arent working either

    Ryan
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    a detailed answer.

    depends on whether your dealer does it or not. When buying my silverado dealer prepped and polished. Two weeks later when the truck was dirty, I did the Dawn,clay,Dawn,Z1,Z5,Z6,Z2,Z6 over a weekend. When buying my Denali, I specifically told the Sales Manager NOT to detail the truck rather to clean the windows, fill up the tank, and make sure the fluid levels including tires were ok. So that forced me to do the Zaino thing that night as the truck was pretty bad, covered with overspray mixed with dirt,rail dust, and everything else.

    Since the paint and clear are heat treated (baked) on, there would be no reason to wait. It is only after getting it back from an autobody shop that one would have to wait a month or so until the paint cures. Some of the autobody shops now "bake" the paint on also. Once "baked" paint is pretty much cured. That is why when prepping, the dealer cleans and waxes the truck.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    forgot the first part of your question.

    I'll usually polish after a rainy period. During summer when the rain is scarce, ususally every two weeks or when really lazy have it detailed with Zaino. The first time my detailer used Zaino, he was rather impressed with the results, however, the process takes too long for him to use effectively. For my truck he will usually clean, then Z2, Z6. I would recommend that you have your truck detailed once or twice a year. The job that these guys do is very detailed, cleaning every crack and crevice. Makes the truck seem new again.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Hullaballoo connect connect....

    My theory on toppers...well they don't work for me 'cause I want to put tall stuff back there, stand up in the bed etc. My S10 Blazer you could fold the seats down for poor man's convertible pickup/topper. Still can't stand up, can't put tall things back there, does keep them dry. Don't want to have to crawl under a topper either. It never rains here anyway. When it does, it evaporates without hitting the ground. Gimme the Carmine Red with open bed. If I need the topper, I need a Yukon/Tahoe.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Took me all week to catch up on all the reading, oil topic, vibrations, tindra.

    Ryan got his Zaino, Red got his all season 35 psi air.

    And now it's time to do it all over again, spread the sunscreen, pound the fence posts, swat the gnats, harass the gophers. I'll get a copy of the minutes and be Onstar next Tuesday...same Bat time...same Bat channel.

    Hold my calls....
    Quad
  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    thanks for the info on the filters. gonna have to check the stores to see if they got 'em and for how much. that's a little rich for me though. think i may stick to the pf 59 and just change it every 3500-5000 miles. we'll see...

    all - yeah, my placemarks aren't working either. says something about that on the town hall home page...they're having problems with it. damn! gotta REMEMBER all the topics i like now...

    kyle
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I don't know what's up...but you can get PF59's for 3-4 bucks here.

    waxing...there is no set amount how much to do..but 2 times a year sounds good...more polishing is OK if you really are a fanatic. I used to go nuts on the Olds and had to re-paint it after several years..due to the fact I made some spots too thin!....Polish will do that more than wax...course wax does not shine a car either...

    How long?....some say wait a few months for teh paint to cure...not sure that is true anymore?...I waited a long time...Bought it in Aug99...just did it 5-7 weeks ago for first time?...I'm still anal about what I use..just too damn busy to lose that much time to do it right...ya know?

    1.5 years after you buy a truck at my dealer..they call you up..and wash/wax/detail for free..(basically seeing if you are ready to buy another car). I don't know if I will let them wax it or not?...I had it prepped..and it did look very good. We will see

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    My streak came to an end.

    I washed my truck wednesday evening. Thursday came and went NO RAIN!!!!! Wow i dont even believe it.

    Ryan
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    all good things must come to an end...sorry about your bad luck Ryan...better luck next time...

    Dean
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Tim,

    I don't agree with polish without waxing. The polish is an abrasive and cuts through the protective wax layer. That leaves the paint open to the elements and more oxidation, etc. Wax is much faster than polishing, so I wax after any polishing.

    And as long as only the wax layer has been exposed to the elements, fresh wax can restore the shine by softening the existing wax and placing new wax onto it. Polish only a couple of times a year, wax as often as you want, weekly if you feel like it. Just don't use too much wax.

    Mike L
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    MBLRDS: Lots of good posts here on cleaning and waxing your truck...scroll back and read them. I especially liked the one above on visiting a detail shop if you don't have the time or inclination to do a thourough job yourself. I do it myself but it's something I enjoy doing.

    TIM: Yeah, I agree, you sure don't want to put seat covers over leather! I'm not that tall (5-10) and my wife is only 5-4 so putting running boards on was at her insistance, but I have to admit it makes it so much easier to get in and out now without crushing those high corners of the bucket seats. Nerf bars, single steps, running boards, all will get the job done...I wanted something that would match and blend in with the truck.

    clay
  • bassamaticbassamatic Member Posts: 79
    He may be right on the above post. Read the label carefully and if it is any kind of a swirl remover or cleaner, it must be waxed again after each application. Depends on what you use. Meguiars makes a show car polish that enhances the existing wax and it is not an abrasive.

    I wouldn't wax a brand new car or truck until you have at least 30 days past the build date. Advice given to me by many custom paint shops.

    clay
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    the water doesn't bead anymore is what I was told when i bought my last new car.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I drop a line here on my break..and what you guys talking about??

    I said more polishing is OK if you are a fanatic...I meant the whole shebang more than 2 times a year...not just the polish part...I should have not said polishing...GRRRR

    I agree that polish should always be followed by wax..but if later on you have swirl marks or whatever to remove...another coat of wax may not do the job.

    I never said just polish and not wax. I use Glaze only on the Olds most of the time..but that paint never has seen Rain and does not sit in the sun either...so there is no problem there if I don't wax that..as the glaze does offer some water protection...(for washing)

    I never claimed to be an expert...but I do know a bit about this..

    GEEZZ!
    - Tim
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    The salesman I've been working with from Huling called me yesterday to say that he now had order information for the 2001's. He invited me to come in to place an order and tell him how much over invoice I am willing to pay. My neighbor bought a 2000 Suburban from his boss this past year and paid $300 over invoice. You might be able to get a comparable deal locally without the flight/drive back to/from Kellogg...
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    The salesman I've been working with read to me from the order guide that OnStar will be standard on the 2001 LT trimline beginning the 4th quarter of 2000.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Relax just dont pay for onstar the next yr (yearly thing im assuming yr 1 is included with price of truck).

    Ryan

    anyone think tims pissed?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    .."oh..you want this?....well then you have to have this.."...

    Most of the stuff on an LT is what I want anyway...but things like no slider and 2 tone..cuz some suit thinks it should be that way bug me...

    I remember my dad used to always get extended Ram Vans....in order to get X package..he had to get the rear opening window...which says right on it that it can't be open when moving...cuz the exhaust would get sucked in...

    GM..not all LT owners want your onstar crap!
    - Tim
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Thanks for the info. If I could order a 2001 Silverado from Huling for only $300 over invoice, then add dealer prep (~$218), and advertising fee (~$270), that might put the total cost (before tax) over invoice at around $788.

    I just called Dave Smith Motors this morning and with a sale price at invoice, my Boeing discount (now at ~$318), dealer prep (~$217), and an advertising fee of (~$270), my total cost would be around $169 above invoice. $1,000 deposit required.

    Just for fun, when I was on the phone with Dave Smith Motors, I went thru the cost of ordering a new 2001 Silverado 1500 Z-71 with all of the options I wanted, fees and discounts. It came to a total of $28,000 + tax.
    When I do the same invoice price comparison on the internet (NADA), including all of the same options and then including fees and discounts, the price I get is $27,176.
    Something is not matching up here! The Dave Smith price looks to be $824 over what it should be!
    What I need to do is see the exact invoice price he is using on the base price and options, and see where the differences are.

    I will definitely still shop around locally for a good deal. I don't like the Dave Smith $1,000 deposit or the price difference compared to the internet.

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    You let them have it.

    The no 2 tone on the LT is dumb i dont understand that one

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    What is that? (dont answer i know what it is cleaning up of your new vehicle) Isnt that free anymore what r they gonna start to charge us for the complimentary tank of gas?

    I didnt pay for a deal prep or ad fee or doc fee nothin but the truck is what i paid for

    Ryan
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Hey Guys. I am at EdmundsLive, you drive, you decide at Atlanta International Motor Race Track.
    It is really neat. My wife and I are driving everything in sight. She out drove me on the acceleration test in a new Lexus. Wow. Got to go drive some more.
    Dustyone
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    advice to be taken with a grain of salt. When you are pissed at the service manager who cannot verify your problem, you will not remember whether you paid $200 or $500 over invoice. All you will be thinking of is how many different ways are available to kill the guy. My advice is to check all the service departments and managers out. Watch how the service advisors treat the customers...thirty minutes spent in the service department observing is worth more than a $500 discount. My $.02.

    The most common complaint in all makes of trucks is how horrible their post sale experience has been with their service dept.
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Ryan,
    Check your paperwork carefully, are you sure you didn't pay for any of those "hidden" costs (dealer prep, advertising fee)?

    I found why the difference in price from the NADA web site and the Dave Smith Motors quote. The NADA site did not include the $941 for automatic transmission option, it thinks it is standard.

    The local Everett Chevrolet service department has been great in taking care of my 1989 Silverado. They've done a good job in fixing any problem that come up.....well except one.
    They only temporarily fixed this problem that I get when I come to a stop. When I come to a stop and have my foot still on the brake, everything seems normal. As soon as I just slightly release the brake a little, and before I step on the gas pedal, I get this jolting feeling and sound from the rear, like someone just lightly ran into the back of my truck. Could it be the rear springs returning to original position after I come to a stop? It's annoying and loud.

    Any ideas / suggestions?

    -David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Nope only thing added was "rust proofing" but this was all my accessories that were added they didnt have a charge called accessories so they had to put it under a category and thats what it was.

    Ryan
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    sounds like a trans problem to me. Seems like the trans did not complete its downshifting into 1st gear. Like you could duplicate this feeling by revving the engine to about 1200 rpm in neutral, then dropping into drive....
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Ryan,
    Glad to see you were not stiffed for those extra costs. When I check with local dealers for the best price, I'm going to demand to see what the actual bottom line price is going to be, including all potential extra costs and our @!#%!!* high 8.3% sales tax.

    When I do get my 2001 Z-71, thanks to all of you guys, I'm going to customize it with Lund Interceptor, Westin CPS, and Eagle Alloys Series 118 wheels (polished aluminum).
    Check these babies out: http://www.americaneaglewheel.com/118.htm
    Only $168 each locally.

    obyone,
    It still does it even if I keep the truck in first gear and come to a stop. And definitely feels like it is coming from the rear of the truck. Maybe I need some of that new blue juice in my differential.

    David
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    All the local dealers (chicagoland area) charge those fees i went 3 hrs from my house around there they dont have these fees. Maybe because they arent around a big city.

    Damn 8.3% tax. Mine was 5% WOOHOO

    Ryan
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Delaware doesn't have state sales tax....


    dch0300

    or a new set of gears...
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    When the local Chevrolet dealer temporarily fixed my nudging-jolting problem when I'm stopped, the fix lasted about 2 months, then returned. I'll have to see if I can find the receipt from that service and decipher what they did.
    Seems to me that they mentioned something about lubricating a specific part of my drive shaft? .....sounds kinda personal don't a think, I usually leave that kind of service for my wife to do. But I think that is what they said they did.

    I'll take it back there for another attempted fix before I sell it and get my new 2001 Z-71. I'm sure I'll miss that ole '89 Silverado with her 5.7L and 210 hp at 4,000 RPMs and 300 ft lbs @ 2800 RPMs......ya right!

    David
  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    haven't checked lately to see if they have 2001 pricing, but when i "showed the dealer" the real numbers, i used www.carwizard.com you "build" your own truck right there, and you can print out an itemized listing that all but identically matches the sticker. best thing is, it lists msrp and invoice side-by-side. the msrp numbers matched to the cent. the invoice numbers...well, let's just say no one would SHOW them to me, but no one argued either...

    good luck

    kyle
  • dallas75dallas75 Member Posts: 72
    Many, many, many posts ago, someone was trying to install the sunvisors from a new Tahoe/Suburban into his Silverado. Anybody remember if the install was successful?

    Chevy, through their website sells a hitch cover with an small integrated Chevy Bowtie brake light. It is located in the "Chevy Mall" section.

    Jerry
This discussion has been closed.