Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The leather, or whatever that material is, boot, was simply twisted. First I turned the shifter itself into this odd angle which straightebed out the stitches. That got rid of the squeak but the shifter was now facing the passenger seat, so I moved the shift boot instead and now happy days!
Now, just the aluminum trip and I will be 100% happy!
I am surprised that cars are being impounded by the dealers for the gas tank fix. I simply drove mine until it came in. Yes, it was annoying to fill up but it is better than not having thecar at all. I can't understand why the dealer simply didn't say "we will call you once the tank comes in".
Dream on! My other half has an '04 Accord EX V6 that she bought straight off the delivery truck with only 2 miles on the odometer. She REALLY wanted the Pilot. We went back just a couple of weeks later because she wanted to trade "up" to the Pilot. The car was only a few weeks old and still spotless (hadn't even had its first washing). She was already $4K upside down in it! And this was at the SAME Honda dealership she bought it from. So don't believe the hype about Hondas not having the same depreciation as everybody else. You're going to get thoroughly raked over the coals when you try to trade it for an '06 Mustang. You might as well change your name to Kindling.
I won't get into the reliability problems we've had with that same Accord. But, as you said, it serves its purpose.
Maybe it's just me, but if I was looking for a hi-po performance car, the Accord just wouldn't cut it. I doubt I would have even cross shopped them.
But, if you like yours, that's all that matters.
This is the first time I've heard the Mustang was unreliable.
Regarding the "guy" who bought the Mustang you ordered, what dealership was this? They'll allow you to give the name (just not salespeople) of the dealership here at Edmunds.
I'm a bit perplexed why Ford would replace a whole rear end assembly. I can see them replacing the shocks, but the whole assembly (and all of its components) were bad?
Manager at the Ford Dealer admitted these mats didn't fit, yet they are the recommended mat that Ford is selling. This also the same mat design that other Websites are selling. Apparently no one even took the stock mat and used it as the template for the Pony - Logo mats or All Weather Mats. Question: Has anyone found at place to buy GT mats with logo that actual cover the carpet like the original stock mats?
Thanks.
After a few more days now the noise is coming back and the response doesn't seem as good. Does anyone know how long you need to leave the battery disconnected for the computer to reset??? I only ask because I tried the disconnect trick again but it didn't seem to work this time
Also the manual says after doing the battery trick to drive right up through every gear. It may be easy for you guys in the states to do that as you have nice big open roads but here in the UK its not that easy. Should I be finding a nice open road first then disconnect my battery or is it clever enough to figure out what it needs to from city driving conditions?
I would appreciate anyones input on this. I live in the UK so the Ford dealers over here haven't got the first clue about the stang.
Most auto transmissions will compare/contrast the "optimal" running given the way the car is driven and adjust itself. In other words, if you drive aggressively, the transmission will respond to the manner in which you drive by trying to adjust for "optimal" running.
If you can, have the battery disconnected overnight, or at least, a few hours.
That's a common misunderstanding. Even some of the Ford PR literature is incorrect. What actually happens is this:
* The car leaves the factory with the computer memory containing the optimim timing for each shift. One shift would be 1-2 at part throttle, another would be 2-3 at WOT, and so on.
* When in the owner's hands, the computer compares actual timing with optimum. If different, it tweaks pressures & timings. This takes a while to do. For example, 6-12 of the same shift, with warm transmission & engine, may be required to 'train' the transmission for the shift.
* After enough experience with all shifts, it will shift the same for you as it will for Granny. Disconnecting the battery erases the 'training' & we get to start all over.
thanks
Mrshiftright
Host
When there's a difference between the actual time and the 'should-be' time, it adjusts the pressures that apply bands and/or clutches. It makes the adjustments in failrly small icrements, each time getting closer to what should be.
Something really cool about this is the fact that this goes on throughout the life of the tranny. Constantly monitoring shift timing, and making adjustments to compensate for wear.
If an owner is experiencing a particularly nasty shift (e.g. harsh 1-2 at light throttle), then train the tranny to do it right: Fully warm engine & transmission then make the troublesome shift about a dozen times.
If a person prefers the shift quality the way it was when new, disconnect the battery cable & allow the transmission to forget its training. Not recommended.
Again: It does NOT tailor shift quality driving style.
Does this help?
What lateralg is saying is that the transmission is adjusting itself so that it's actual shifts are in line with the factory settings. It is NOT adjusting itself to individual drivers and their habits. So driving 'agressively' doesn't 'teach' the tranny to shift differently.
I have no idea if this is true or not. I was always under the impression that a 'learning' tranny DID adjust itself to the driver's style rather than, in essense, calibrate itself continuously to factory specs.
I think I'll stick with a manual tranny, thank you very much.....
I always thought that the adaptive automatic trannys had optimal shift point "maps" that were programmed. The Transimission logic would adapt to what the driver was doing to adhere to those "optimal" maps....thus changing the way the tranmission operated depending on conditions and driver input.
In other words, depending on conditions and a "light" throttle, the transmission would react more conservatively with the shift points. Driven more agressively would cause the transmission to pursue more agressive shift points....and eveything in between.
Which, as you say, is the reason I like manual tranny's. I prefer to be as shifty as I want to be, with no computer input.
What would be the effect say with very aggressive drivers like myself? I would tend to use heavy throttle. Are you saying then that the transmission would strive for
"optimum heavy throttle shifts" for me?
Yes. Optimum for each SHIFT.
If a tranny never experiences a particular shift, then it can't learn it. This is where driver differences enter the picture. As an aggressive driver, who like most of us occasionally gets stuck in creep-and-beep traffic, then you have probably given your transmission experience in all of the many, many shifts, and have a 'smarter' transmission.
A fallacy that's important to understand is that if you become a Granny-type driver, the transmission will soften up its shift characteristics. This is UNTRUE.
I think we're closer to agreement than I realized. Let's try the following:
For a medium-throttle 1-2 shift, after the transmission has a chance to learn that shift, yours would be essentially the same as Granny's.
But, your WOT 1-2 shift is likely to be very different than Granny's. Why? Granny's transmission never learned that shift.
How are we doing?
JB in N.E. Wisconsin
I do have a question of other GT owners concerning slop in the drive train. Just how much is normal. At slow speeds on and off the gas, and down shifting at lower speeds i get a lot of clunking from time to time. Really smooth when accellerating and shifting. I know I don't shift as well as I did 40 years ago, but it does seem sloppy. Is it just me?
PS. I had great pleasure in roasting a Z4 today. Love my stang.
I just got my Mustang back from having the 3rd radio installed and a new fuel sensor on Wednesday. I went and filled up my car 1 mile down the road. That night I had no problems with my fuel gage reading empty when it was full and the new radio lights and speed volume worked. When I went to go crank it up yesterday morning to go to work, my NEW radio wouldn't even LOAD a CD! On top of that, my gas gage goes to 1/2 tank and the gas light comes on again and then goes to a full tank like it should have been and then the check engine light comes on. I told them to keep it until they get it fixed, which better be soon or they were going to get me a new car. I still can't believe that the loaner that Ford gave me is a Chevy. Imagine that.
Thanks
JB
I also had problems with my gas hand reading empty when it wasn't. And the engine light was coming on. They fixed it just Friday. Hope it doesn't happen again.
They gave me a Toyota van as a loaner. Oh boy! I think they do it on purpose. But atleast it was something to drive if I needed it that day.
Good luck! I went by the local Ford place and I'm having my sales rep. work up some info. on a 2006. Maybe the bugs will be worked out by then. Just tossing around some ideas.
This may sound picky, but the passenger seat is soooo hard to move forward. I have my daughter sit in the back seat and I count 1-2-3 and I move it forward while she pushes on the back of the seat. That's a little ridiculous for it to be that hard to move. Whatcha think? The dealer said to put lubricant on the tracks under the seat.
mustangsally3
Ford called me Friday wanting me to come and pick up my car so I could run some gas out of it and bring it back on Monday. (I filled it up the day before after they told me everything was ok when it wasn't). I told them that they should have fixed it right the first 3 times and I wasn't picking it up until everything was working like it should have been when I bought it. Sounds like to me they didn't want to fool with it until Monday. Everyday I don't get my car back is another day that they have to pay for a rental car. Seems like the would get on the ball and do something. I really miss my car.
Any ideas? Would something with the suspension cause vibration?
As I mentioned before, I belong to about 4-5 other Mustang enthusiasts boards besides Edmunds. All of them represent 1,000s of owners. While some had a few initial issues like slow fuel fill, or a stereo problem and a few said they heard some kind of noise from the front end when making sharp turns, the vast vast majority love the Mustang.
You've observed posts here at Edmunds from what....10 posters?
I think a lot of people were coming from more sedate cars, lured by the Mustang's looks. They either weren't ready for what the Mustang really is (a modern day hot-rod), or they weren't used to the driving experience that people like myself absolutely love about the car.
The Mustang is going to ride firm. It's a loud, burbling "in your face" car that's very fast and handles very well. It's also built well. What it isn't is a softly sprung, quiet and sedate car.
Give you a good example. This past weekend, I was at a local 'Stang show. There were mostly older Mustangs there, but there were 3 of us with '05s. A lady, in her 50s, came up to mine and asked me how I liked it. Of course I told her I loved it. I repeated the same question to her. She said she was having problems. When I inquired about them, she kept saying she couldn't keep it tuned up. Curious, I asked her what she meant. She went on to explain that it constantly backfired on her. More inquisitive, I asked her if I could hear how her car was behaving. She took me about 50 yards to where she was parked (which happened to be right next to a concrete wall). She fired it up and heard the burbling echo off the wall with an occasional "pop" when she blipped the throttle. Now, to me, it's got a wonderful hot cam and exhaust system that makes it do that and it's music to my ears. To her, she thinks it constantly needs a tune-up.
I asked her what her previous car was. She said she had a "sports car". "What was it?" She replied she had a Solara.....a 4cyl, no less. To her, that was a sports car. The Mustang couldn't be any further from the way it rides, handles or sounds from a Solara. Therfore, she thinks something's wrong with her Mustang, when nothing could be further from the truth.
I've seen some of your other posts regarding your Accord. It sounds like you've got some issues with the front end? and it's a year old?
Long and short of it, I don't think you'll honestly be happy with a Mustang. At the very least, wait a model year or two until you're satisfied that Ford has allegedly changed the way they build it.
Again, I say this in humble sincerity. Stick with your Accord.
Just a casual observer from the outside looking in.
I have had NO:
(1) Fuel tank problems
(2) Brakes Squealing
(3) Backfiring
(4) Handling problems
(5) Interior Flaws
(6)Tire or wheel problems
(7)Windshield problems
(8) Shaker problems
(9) RPM Vibrations
(10) No gas leaks
(11)NO problems period..
You are right Graphic, the Mustang is a muscle car. I handles different than a Solaro..it was made to. Mine roars and acts like it is suppose to. It growls in the city and roars on the interstate. I have to laugh when the drivers in front of me see me coming and they pull over right away to let me go by. I get alot of thumbs up.
It IS a beautiful, well built solid machine and I am here to say I am completely happy with my GT and am problem free. Maybe the later built cars had the bugs worked out.
All shopping carts have a great deal of caster, but not all shimmy. In fact, most run smoothly. Those that don't run smoothly do not have oversize wheels and/or lowered suspension. Bad analogy IMO.
How would lowering & larger wheels affect caster?
If caster were affected enough to cause vibration, directional stability would be awful ... it would wander all over the place. On smooth concrete pavement. Not to be confused with tramlining that is a characteristic of low profile tires when operated on asphalt the has even minor wheel grooves.
My money is still on force variation of the tire/wheel combination.