Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions

rimfire · February 2006

It does it all the time, but only if you are turning really sharp, example like a u turn.

mikehnic · February 2006

I have a new '06 V6 manual, and I remember during my test drive that the clutch was noisy. I didnt pay a lot of attention because the dealer was talking, yada yada. Now that I have the car, I notice that the clutch is rather loud when engaging from stop. I can actually feel it in my foot when I release the clutch. The 'feel' and the 'sound' seems to be in tune with the compression in the engine, and I think it may because I don't have a lot of experience of driving performance tuned cars. I have been driving wimpy manual transmissions in things like Neons for years, and I've never had a car where the transmission was actually directly below the shifter. Is this noise on the stang normal? Should I chalk it up to being a very powerful car, and I'm sitting right next to the transmission?

Thanks for your help.

sigt1 · February 2006

im working on a deal right now; although if it is not to my liking i will just keep my camry as it has not disappointed

i almost went w/ a 2006 civic si (best interior for the 22k price) but am ruling that out bcuz it is too small of a car;

going to test drive a gt right now, not the one i want but i need to experience it again to see if it is something i would want to repurchase lol

lavrishevo · February 2006

I notice the same thing in my 06 GT manual. The points you are making out I agree with. The fact that youre sitting right above the tranny and the overall size of it as well. What seems to help is be sure to depress the clutch all the way to the floor before shifting and let the clutch release all the way, foot totally off of it, before accelerating in the next gear. In my experience second gear is really the only gear I notice this on but if you are aware of taking time with your clutch movement it stops the noises. In the owners manual it also says to depress the clutch all the way to the floor to avoid transmission damage.

Daniel

sigt1 · February 2006

just test drove an 06 manual... forgot how good that car feels to drive... man

anyone have a black 06 with some miles on it? how is the paint on yours? anyone do the 3m clear guard on theirs? can they get the grooves between the doors and the handle?

hint195 · February 2006

I am currently looking for a new car as a weekend driver. My wife and I went to look at a new GT sitting on the showroom floor and fell in love with it. Well before taking the leap I came here to look at reviews and see that there have been many reports of electrical problems. Oddly enough, the GT we test drove had to be jump started twice today before we could even test drive it. Are there many problems out there with the electrical systems on these cars??? Any persons who might shed some light on this delima would be greatly apprciated. :confuse:

passions · February 2006

Aloha! Well, it's been six months since the tank was replaced. My car is back in the shop again for third time. The engine light stayed on and the problem with filling in the gas again. I also experienced losing power while driving uphill on the freeway, that is, the car would not shift and nearly caused a fender bender from behind. Whew! My car will be in the shop for about two weeks. I was told that a line leading from the tank to the engine was defective or "twisted" and is the source of the problem. Well, I'll just have to wait and see. I'm still very much frustrated. :mad:

cobragt · February 2006

You are not talking about the same sound as the poster above when it comes to turning are you?

If you are talking about what I think you are, then the sound you are hearing is normal. When you shift, you can hear the clutch engaging. Also, if you are hearing some sort of hard clunk for a lack of a better way to describe it, coming from the rear, (axle) that is normal too. The gears are just engaging and they make that sound when you hit the gas.

As far as the popping noise, I'm not sure. Haven't figured that one out yet. I've seen and heard lots of people complain about it, but haven't seen it to be a problem yet. Sorry.

cobragt · February 2006

Hows 35,000 miles on the black paint job for you?

Aside from little nicks from rocks shooting up from other cars because of driving 80+ down the turnpike, the paint looks as beautiful as new every time I wash her. Hasn't faded, dulled, or anything for that matter.

Did I mention black is definitly the best color. (With black limo tint too!)

mikehnic · February 2006

It's not a sound when turning. For instance, when I'm in neutral, and i slowly engage the clutch it almost 'feels' in my foot like i can feel the pressure plate and the clutch plate making contact. However, it's not 'smooth' like the small cars I've driven before. I can feel every revolution of the engine, as if the pressure plate is not contacting the clutch plate evenly. (it almost 'knocks'. When I shift into 1st, from stop it sounds louder, but like i've said I haven't driven any type of performance car before. I can feel it in the shifter too, but I just figured it's because the gearbox is actually directly below the shifter, as opposed to inverted front-wheel drive cars.

It may be absolutely normal. Love the car, just want to know.

cobragt · February 2006

Thats a hard question to answer, because I think that you will here something different from people.

From what I have been seeing and reading, the first production models that came out did, but the later ones haven't. I personally haven't had any problems, not one, with mine.

Granted there always will be that chance, but one thing I can tell you, if you get the GT, you will LOVE it. If you don't, you will probably regret not getting it.

They are awesome cars, and man do they get lots of compliments.

cobragt · February 2006

What you are describing "seems" to be louder then normal. You can feel it in the shifter, but I don't recall actually feeling a knocking from the petal.

Dumb question, but you say you've driven stick before, are you starting rough, you know, bucking the car at all, or no, just smooth starts?

It's funny, I use to drive a manual neon too. Ha. Anyway, the clutch is definitly stiffer then the neon, and you should be able to feel exactly where its actually engaging. If you pay attention, as you push down the clutch, you will actually feel where it slips in, and its not all the way down.

mikehnic · February 2006

I feel it in the smooth starts. I'm not starting rough at all because i just picked the thing up yesterday. Now, the dealership put 28Km on it just getting gas and whatnot, and if this were an issue, I'd assume they'd have said something... but maybe not.

cobragt · February 2006

Honestly, I wouldn't put my faith and trust in the dealerships. They want the sale, and the commision, they're not going to tell you something is wrong before you even buy the car.

Listen, if I was you, since you just got the car, take it right back, and just have them check it out now. Sooner the better. If it is something, the longer you wait, you could do damage to something else in the car.

rimfire · February 2006

has anybody switched from the 5w-20 motorcraft oil. I have only changed oil once and stayed with motorcraft.

sigt1 · February 2006

sounds great =D

Black DEFINETELY is the best color for the GT =D

lavrishevo · February 2006

This may sound a little crazy but I changed my oil at 500 miles. The thinking is to get rid of metal shavings that might be in the engine due to some break-in. Im going to change the oil again at 2,000 miles and put in Mobile One 5W-30 SuperSyn and run that for the rest of the time I own the car. I am a fan of full synthetic and aftermarket oil filters. Just remember if you go full synthetic don't go back to a blend or regular oil. Also, part of my reasoning is due to the aftermarket products on the engine.

Daniel

pony_pirate · February 2006

Changing the oil @ 500 miles on new cars to get rid of shavings doesn't apply anymore. For a long time now, manufacturing tolerances have been good enough to obviate this. Main thing is to change the oil regularly. How often really depends on how and where you drive. 3000 miles is playing it super safe.

cobragt · February 2006

Yep. I have to change my oil once a month, love the full synthetic, so does my baby lol.

When you do 3000 miles or more in a month, the oil change is definitly a priority.

lavrishevo · February 2006

You know I would agree with you except for the fact that when I first purchased my 05 V6 I checked my oil at about 500 miles and when I pulled the dipstick out I saw a tiny shaving on the stick. This kind of freaked me out and had me worried something else was wrong but the car was running fine and not burning any oil. I went ahead and changed the oil anyway just to be safe. So after I purchased my 06 GT I figured why not, just to be on the safe side. But then again this may have been a unique situation to that 05 V6.

markser · February 2006

I have a question for everyone. Under what circumstances would I need to go with a synthetic oil. I drive about 1200 miles/month. I do not plan to do any racing (except to smoke a ricer once in a while or maybe a track day once a year). I like to have fun while I am driving, but I am not in the gas all of the time. Do I need to even think about synthetics? Also, do synthetics last longer than conventional? Not sure I want the extra expense if it is not going to last longer or benefit me in some way.

markser · February 2006

So, are you saying that I do not need to be really conservative in the first 1000 miles or so? I had heard that a good way to break in a vehicle is to run it at highway speeds for a good bit in that "break-in" period. Is this true? I had heard that this sets up the engine to get good mileage, especially on the highway.

lavrishevo · February 2006

Do you have a V6 or the GT? The GT uses a semi synthetic from the factory. I'm personally a fan of full synthetic oil like Mobile One, Redline, or Amsoil. Amsoil I know claims to be the best but man are they expensive.

"Synthetic has a better shear capability, better cling, and thermal breakdown is an issue in a daily driver. More so if it's a turbo car. Other advantages include much lower pour point, much less viscosity change over time, and flat-out better lubricity. All of these are quite advantageous indeed--even in daily drivers. That lower pour point is particularly good--it means that oil gets where it needs to be much more rapidly after a cold start, especially in very cold weather. ... Thermal breakdown manifests itself as sludge and that tar like stuff that comes out of your crankcase every 3k miles. It happens on daily drivers! If you're not driving in conditions that let you take advantage of the lower pour point of synthetic oil, then you're most likely driving in conditions that let you take advantage of the resistance to thermal breakdown. Synthetic by design is less prone to breakdown, and does not need the quantity of additives necessary to make dino juice an "effective" oil. Synthetic is much less prone to cooking and less prone to varnish than conventional oil." ---allpar.com

So these are some great points on why synthetic oil is superior. Just remember once you switch to a synthetic they all say you should not go back to a conventional oil.

pony_pirate · February 2006

If the GT comes from the factory with a "semisynthetic" (never heard of such a thing) and once you use a synthetic you should never use regular oil, how come the manual doesn't tell you to use synthetic oil, but tells you to use regular oil?

Personally, I think the most important thing is to change the oil frequently (every 3000-7500 miles), not what kind of oil you use.

lavrishevo · February 2006

I have a challenge I would like to put out there to you all. After consulting some Ford performance specialist and learning about stock tuning and other issues with fuel I wanted to see if any of you would like to take part in a little test. What I have learned is that the stock tune and timing on the 6's and particularly the GT's are right on the edge of being able to run 87 octane without pinging. The challenge is to average out you miles per tank on 87 octane and when the tank is down to the bare minimum fill it up with 93 octane preferably from BP. BP fuels are much better then many other fuels out there and even the 2006 Mustangs have a label from Ford on the gas cap telling you to use BP fuel. I have a feeling the overall mpg, or miles per tank will end up in saving you money in mileage compared to the $2.00 to $3.00 savings at the pump in selecting a lower octane fuel. We all also know how much better it is for the engine to run a higher octane fuel.

I'm personally going for the strict BP only, when possible, 93 octane fuel because of the aftermarket products on the engine. Cold air intake, tune, long tube headers, X-pipe, performance cats, Borla exhaust, and a couple other things. These additions add almost 70 HP on the dyno and increase gas mileage 2 - 3 mpg when cruising; now of course they lower gas mileage when stomping on it but this is only natural. So anyway, I think it would be interesting to see in the long run which cost more, saving $2.50 at the pump or maybe saving as much as $5.00 or more dollars in overall MPG and keeping you engine cleaner while you do it.

pony_pirate · February 2006

The GT manual clearly states you're to use regular, not premium, gas.

rimfire · February 2006

first let me say i love my gt, that being said when i parked my car in the carport last night it was 40 degrees and raining.This morning at 6 am it was 28 degrees and i noticed that my door acted a little funny when i opened it but i jumped in and took off to work. When i got up to speed i noticed wind noise...turned around to look and my window was on the outside of my trim leaving a 3/8" wide gap. Problem is obvious, when i opened the door it never droped down (frozen) and when i shut the door it was trapped on the outside....not cool, lucky i live in alabama and maybe that want happen very often. What about the northern cars??

cobragt · February 2006

I too run a custome tune, cold air intake,headers,JBA exhaust, and 4:10 gears, (blower) but that doesn't count in your challenge.

I also try to strickly run on 93 octane and not even the 92 that you get with most gas stations on premium.
I think I do, or did see a savings. I say do, because of the blower. Even with my 4:10 gears, before I did the blower, driving down the NJ Turnpike, doing 80-90mph, I was getting about 18mpg. I think that is excellent for those kinds of speeds, and with the gears that I have.

For the few pennies saved upfront when going with a lower octane, I would say get a tune, and go with 93. It makes the car run so much better.

pony_pirate · February 2006

Is your 3-year warranty still valid once you've altered your GT with a "custom tune"?

sigt1 · February 2006

just stick with 87 for the manual

pony_pirate · February 2006

yes, sir.

cobragt · February 2006

That can be a tricky question, or better yet, answer. Let me explain. I use to say 100% no, however, I have come to learn that not only does it depend on the good graces of your dealership, but also just what exactly your problem is if you are having one, that you want to be covered under the warranty.

For example, putting on say, an Axle-back exhaust, well that doesn't do anything to your engine, so if all of a sudden, later on, your engine starts having problems, it will still be covered. Say something went wrong with your exhaust though, well, that would NOT be covered, because you altered it.

Same with a cool air intake, if you do not use a Ford filter, and something goes wrong with your engine, say they tell you they found pieces of dirt inside, well that wouldn't be covered, because they will say that you didn't use a Ford filter, and now its the fault of say K&N or whoever you used. Get it?

The computer retune is iffy, because it effects more on the car, but again, it depends on the problem.

If you are considering a custome tune, make sure you get a cold air intake first, thats the main reason the GT's are tuned, because the engine is so sensitive to any changes in the air flow. If you do, you will def. see a difference in the horsepower, it usally adds 20-25HP, with the CAI and tune.

And trust me, run it on 92 or if you can 93 octane, and it will definitly run better. Full synthetic oil is always a plus too.

Hope that helps.

sigt1 · February 2006

hahaa =P

i actually used V-Power on a couple occassions and seemed like the car was running better? probably a mental thing because I can't pinpoint what I mean by "better!"

lavrishevo · February 2006

One benefits of a higher octane no mater if there is mileage gain or not in that it burns hotter, cleaner and helps prevent carbon build up especially in fuel injectors. All fuel injector cleaner is is a little bit of octane booster. Just a few thoughts

rorr · February 2006

"One benefits of a higher octane no mater if there is mileage gain or not in that it burns hotter, cleaner and helps prevent carbon build up..."

Really?

I was under the impression that the octane rating of the fuel has ZIPPO to do with how 'clean' it burns. That is determined by the various additives the refiners add to their fuel. In the past, the refiners typically added more of these additives to their 'premium' blends but for the most part that is no longer the case. All grades typically receive the same additives.

The higher octane rating simply means the fuel is less susceptible to detonation (pre-ignition). I believe (though don't know for certain) that this is due to a lower vapor-point for the higher octane rating.

This lower vapor-point also means the higher octane fuel actually burns COOLER rather than hotter. The only reason that an engine will make more power running a higher octane fuel is if the compression ratio is high and/or the timing is advanced to the point where the use of a lower octane would lead to detonation.

In other words, the additional power is made by the compression/timing, not the fuel. Running the higher octane is insurance against detonation and to keep the ECU from retarding the ignition (and thereby lowering power).

Mr_Shiftright · February 2006

I've been told by engine builders that the higher octane brand-name fuels use a better combination of additives and that's why you are likely to have fewer engine deposits with high test gas.

rorr · February 2006

From what I understand, the cleaner fuels are not NECESSARILY the high octane blends, but the fuels which have obtained "Top Tier" status.

http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=27&article_id=9752&page_numbe- - r=1

http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html

In part, these standards read "The deposit control performance of unleaded gasoline conforming to section 1 of this document shall be met at the retail level in all grades of gasoline sold by a fuel company in all marketing areas of a selected nation."

The secret to 'cleaner burning' fuel is NOT the octane rating, but whether or not the fuel meets the Top Tier Standards.

06mustanky · February 2006

I bought an 06 gt on 11/30/05. It has the following problems, some are supposed to be solved in the 05 but mine are not. I waited on the 06's to avoid most of the problems that i read about on this forum. Waiting didn't work.

I have an excellent service department at my dealer and they have helped alot and are continuing to clear up these issues.

Upper front strut mount bump noise. will be repaired under wearranty or i will replace the struts and mounts with aftermarket tokico dsp-12 adjustable.

Out of balance drive shaft. replaced under warranty now is
75% better but still vibrates slightly.

The dash squeaks in two places and something bumps around inside behind the speedo when it's very cold.

The cooling fan hits the shroud when very cold for a short while until you turn it off and check under thehood then crank it up again and it's gone.

The ring and pionion whine on decel and will be replaced by factory warranty. It was barely noticeable until it was driven for a while with a bad drive shaft.

Other issues that i just don't like are the 18" goodrich g force kdws tires generate more road noise than any set of tires i have ever had. I will replace with goodyear F1 ds g3.

The front end has no idea where center is. It tracks anywhere the road takes it.

However there are alot of things that are right with it. It's solid vista blue and looks graet and excellemt power.

I had the worse case of buyers remorse that i have ever had on a purchase. But as i get things fixed on it, I like it better. Just my $.03

pony_pirate · February 2006

Honestly, rorr, you sound like the kind of patient all doctors dread, full of complaints founded in fantasy, nothing for which a cure exists. Listen, bro, I have a tiny creak that comes out of my dashboard, the driver's side speaker rattles at certain frequencies, and the release button on the back of the front passenger seat slips off. You know what? I don't care. The car drives like a dream and takes off like a rocket. I'll get that trivial crap looked at at my first oil change. :shades:

rorr · February 2006

What in the heck are you talking about?

I was talking about the differences between premium and regular fuel. I made ZERO complaints (that would be zip, zilch, nada) about the Mustang.

My only complaint (if I were in a position to offer one) would be that Ford doesn't offer the car in Dark Highland Green. THEN it would be perfect.....

cigarmanblue · February 2006

I was installing a billet e - brake handle cover yesterday and had to pull the brake handle up to screw the screws in from the bottom of the handle . The brake handle came up further than it usually does. Now after I release the handle and pull it back up to engage the brake there is no clicking sound when the handle is being pulled up. The brake seems to engage and the car will not move, but the handle does need to be pulled up a little further to lock into place. Is this a problem ?

pony_pirate · February 2006

rorr, oops, my mistake. I was responding to the post immediately preceding mine, from "mustanky." :surprise:

rorr · February 2006

s'okay.....I figured as much....I've done the same thing myself

m1miata · February 2006

Just buy some Chevron gas, now and then, or add the Techron additive yourself. I use cheap gas most of the time. Just try to use Chevron once a month. Their price, at one station, is pretty good anyway. Don't know if most companies put less additives in for cleaning in the lower octane, or not. The government only sets a minimum, and there is no way of telling how much is put in what tank. I use Costco most of the time now.

Loren

lavrishevo · February 2006

The other day here in Atlanta it was raining a little, but not cold enough for any snow or ice and I was coming back home from work. There is an onramp that does the good old circle around and puts you right onto the freeway. Well anyway it's fun to kind of take the turn with a little speed or just power out of it. Knowing it was wet I took it easy on the corners but figured hey why not power out of the corner. This was a mistake... Before I knew it I was going down the onramp sideways thinking this is strange I better turn the wheel the other direction. Well of course I overcorrected and was continuing down the onramp still sideways but facing the other direction. A few more corrections and I was facing the right direction again but man what an experience. I guess it takes experiences like this here and there to appreciate and control the amount of power under your right foot. Not I can testify one thing for sure, traction control does not prevent you from going down an onramp sideways if there be a need.

pony_pirate · February 2006

i used to pull those kind of stunts when I was 17, no longer. grow up.

cobragt · February 2006

Pony listen, your input is appriciated but everyone is entitled to post on here. Relax a little with the insults on people.

Powering out of a turn, or when entering a highway isn't what I would consider a stunt. Hell, I do it everyday so that it makes it easier to merge.
True, you have to be careful in the rain, because TCS doesn't stop you from loosing it.

A stunt? Ha, now that would be when a few guys wanted me to pull some 360s in the parking lot of 6 Flags.

May not be 17, but it sure is fun to play sometimes.

pony_pirate · February 2006

Sorry, cobra, I just don't approve of your not only speeding, but losing control of your car on a public road. I don't consider going sideways safe driving. It isn't considerate of the safety of others. What you do on your own property is your business, but I get mad when I others endanger my and others' safety with their reckless shenanigans.

cobragt · February 2006

You are right, and I couldn't agree with you more. But I'm sure that you also have powered out of a turn, or when entering a highway, so as to get in front of the traffic that you are merging into? Yes, no... maybe?

lol.

The difference may be that you and I, or someone else is just a little more experienced then our poor fellow who spun out. That's all.

pony_pirate · February 2006

I'm no saint, cobra. Far from it. I'm an aggessive driver. I power out of turns and unleash the horses when there's need or an opportunity. I pass the sluggards whenever I can, if it's legal. I love that power. :shades:

Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions

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Ford Mustang (2005 &amp; newer) Problems and Solutions

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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions