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Comments
Will
Other than that I LOVE THIS TRUCK!
How is the Ram equipped? 2 door, 4 door, AT, 2 or 4wd, etc.? Is it a 1500, 2500,3500 series? Are you hauling or towing with it daily? How much weight?
What type vehicle, engine size, tranny, and so forth did you drive under the same conditions before the 03 Ram? What kind of mileage did it get with all city driving?
Thanks,
Kip
Modification Update:
After the K&N, I saw ~0.5mpg increase. After using the Hypertech max energy, I can see and additional ~1.5mpg increase.
I say "can" because it appears to be much more sensitive--which makes sense. If we attempt to drive as conservative as possible, we get a definite improvement over stock, but drive slightly more aggressive, and there isn't any difference from what stock would do--indicating that the fuel maps were probably designed to increase power when needed, then save energy when not needed.
So, it's improving, but still doesn't fix that step change after the dealer worked on the engine/computer. I think my next step will be the o2 sensor. Any other ideas?Thanks,
Ron
It is a Ram 1500, 2 wd, 4 doors with the SLT trim and the 4.7. I’m not towing or hauling anything. It’s just me riding to the shop and then around town doing errands and I weigh 150lbs.
Before the Ram I had a 96 F-150 6 cylinder and I would get around 15 - 17 city. On my way home from the dealer I was getting 18 – 19 on the highway running 65 – 70 in the Ram.
I’m driving like my Grandpa and can’t break the 9.0 level.
Thanks,
lss
Try a super light throttle on those moving away from stops and try coasting to the stops while using as little brake as possible.
If that doesn't help, maybe the dealer can find a reason.
Kip
Or even a fuel line. I have fuel economy problems that were as simple as a fuel leak. If you can smell gas, you have a leak. I could write a story about how hard they can be to find.
Or forget to connect - or properly reconnect - some sensor wiring. If is is connected to the wrong place, tracing it out against the factory manual may be required. Or maybe knock something loose accidently. I know - have done it to myself more than once. A USAF electronics tech I worked with many years ago used to say, "Just look where the last GI screwed up." Or something like that. :-)
He fixed a lot a problems.
Rule #1 for trouble shooting - Make a GOOD inspection. This includes GENTLY tugging on connections in addition to visual. Key word is gently. Too much enthusiasm and you will generate way more problems that you fix.
I understand that many new computer control modules need to be re programed in the field. If the wrong firmware was loaded, it could possible the computer thinks you have a 6 cylinder. If no firmware was field loaded, it is likely running factory test software. Find out what version(s) of firmware should be loaded, than have a shop (different shop, of course) read the software load version for you. Compare the two yourself.
If you just ask, "Do I have firmware load XYZ?" a lot of people will say, "Yup" because they have no clue how to read it out or just don't want to bother..
Also, some of the toughest problems I have encountered have multiple causes for the same symptom(s). Don't stop your inspection just because you find something. Check everything - twice!
Rule#2 check power. If the first computer was diagnosed as bad, it may have been operating incorrectly because it had bad power. I have fixed a lot of electrical problems over 50+ years by merely cleaning the battery connection. A shop can not charge enough to afford to stay in business cleaning connections, so they sell you a battery or computer. I would replace the battery cables with the best quality ones I could find before I spent anymore on aftermarket fuel economy upgrades.
Hope this helps.
Stock gearing.
I get 10.9 City using 87 octane. No mods to the engine with 265/75/16 tires.
I never drive on the highway since my work commute is 10 miles from my house. We got some snow the other day and driving with 4x4 100% of the distance to where I was going only affected the overall MPG by .2MPG. But that might be due to driving slower and with caution. I love the truck aside from its DodgeISMs. Bad steering and bad transmission (knock on wood my tranny is still working fine). I am going to get a DSS steering kit to fix the trackbar issue. See this site: http://www.solidsteel.biz/tbk.htm
I get 10.9MPG (city) with my 98 RAM 1500 5.9 automatic 4x4 Quad Cab (245/75/16) with a bed cover. No other mods to the engine.
I will have to try those plugs on its soon to happen tune up.
Correction to my last message. I get 10.5MPG with the tonneau and 10.9MPG without it.
The "Saves Gas" is a sales pitch with tonneau covers, and its false. Its been proven by mythbusters TWICE that they DO NOT help your MPG, they actually make it worse. The best way to go was the mesh airgate thing, but its too tacky to use, then second best was with the tailgate UP.
the Tonneaus and the tailgate down or off were the worst ways, so put those gates back up. I use the Tonneau because of the New England snow/rain, but roll it up otherwise.
made for the 2008 Dodge the #3808 will not tune the truck, they still do not have the right codes to do the job so I returned it. If anyone has had any luck with a computer tuner that works let me know.
Thanks Larry
20.9 H/C ( hand calculated) @ 74mph. O/H (overhead) displays 23mpg.
22.2 @ 70mph
18.2mpg towing 4500# flat car hauler over two 6000' passes from Vegas to LA at about 68mph
A few observations:
Tried a set of high quality 285/70/17 10 ply highway tires an mileage plummeted to about 17.5 @ 70mph. Saved the 265/70/17 10 ply Michelin's that it came with, put them back on and mileage jumped back to low 20's. Amsoil was worth about .8mpg and a little better turbo response at small throttle openings.
Mileage nose dives abruptly past 75mph. The 6 speed manual would probably allow me to cruise with LA traffic and not get MPG penalized so much.
Tailgate removed makes no difference at any speed.
Driving un-smoothly and accelerating in traffic off crusie control doesn't hurt mileage nearly as much as even the tinest hill. That's a lot of power to accelerate it but a bunch of weight to push up a hill.
Test drove the 6.7 CTD with same equipment and mileage was nowhere near as good, struggling top get into the 20's at even 65mph. I like the equipment and trans in the newer 6.7 but couldn't accept the mileage difference.
Wish it was quieter cruising and had a 6 speed auto, otherwise this thing is an utter gem.
I am glad you tired the tailgate, you need to see episode 43 and 64 of Mythbusters. Here is a quote from episode 64 "Tailgate Up or Down Revisited: in addition to tailgate up/down, also tested hardcover over pickup bed, tailgate removed, and tailgate mesh. Tailgate mesh was most efficient by 5%. busted "
With my tonneau I lose 0.5MPH city. I use it primarily in the winter to prevent the bed from filling up with all that New England Snow...
I've also found that although Dodge recommends 89 octane for the HEMI, better milage can be obtained from 87 octane.
Next trip I"ll set the cruise to 65 mph (my Dodge book says MDS works ONLY up to 65 mph! So far, nobody can verify that.
Dodge also says that the 2009 model extends the speed limit for the same engine and MDS to 70 mph. Kind of makes one wonder, huh?
Just picked up a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 3 months ago. Have been getting about 15 MPG both City and Highway combined. Truck is less than 3 months old, not sure if it gets better once broken or not. I have a few quesitons for you experienced Ram owners:
1. Just wondering what Nitrogen filled tires do?
2. Where can i find a good "larger" aftermarket drivers seat or an OEM seat from a 2500/3500 model Ram? The one in my 1500 is too narrow to be comfortable, the seats in the larger Rams are bigger and more comfortable but Dodge says they can't order me a full seat!!!
3. On that gas mileage issue, the manual says to use 89 octane. That said, try to follow my logic and see if this makes sense: 87 octane gas is $3.00 per gallon & 89 octane is $3.10 per gallon so on a 25 gallon fill up, I would spend $2.50 more per fill up with 89 than with 87. If I get 1 more mile per gallon with 89 but am spending $2.50 more per fill up, thats the same as getting 1 less MPG with 87 therefore equaling the same dollar amount per fill up. Is this logic correct? If so, seems like a wash to me and I would be spending the same amount what ever gas I choose, 87 or 89 octane?? Am I thinking correctly here or did I smell too many gas fumes while filling up today? Is 87 bad for the HEMI engine or why is the reason Dodge recommends 89? Oh by the way, a fill up toda was $73.05 with 89 octane.
Thanks to all who respond.
p.s. LOVE my 2007 RAM but has anyone see the new 2009 Ram on Youtube?
This video and new 09 RAM rock!!!
http://youtube.com/watch?v=beoKW6ya1gw&feature=related
Ski in TX
While in the military, we used nitrogen to fill engine containers before air lifting to whereever.
Speaking of loyalty, I've owned Dodge trucks since 1988 (they were twins to the Mitsubichi back then). I honestly can tell you that I can count the major poblems I've had on one hand!
Most mods, such as CAI, chip, and exhaust mods tend to do very little considering the cost you must put in to the truck.
Lifts, and oversized tires are bigggggg killers of MPG. stock tires, no lift, and a light foot is the only way. Going with higher octane has been proven to NOT improve mileage. Also, when you get a chip, it advances the timing and you will HAVE to use higher octane fuel.
going with higher octane is only needed to cure engine knock, due to advanced timing or other issues.
good luck.
If not, you are traveling farther and faster than the speedometer/odometer are showing!
Kip
I was getting 10.5 before all the work listed below.
New Catalytic Converter
New O2 Sensors (both).
Also, had done, but not really attributing to any change in MPG was...
transmission rebuild, new front bearings and new u-joints.
This truck is the biggest POS I have ever owned, no, wait, the DODGE RAMPAGE I used to own is tied for the worst.
This truck breaks constantly. I only commute 25miles round trip daily and I don't tow or go off road, and I never beat on it. Granted all things break over a period of time, but its all at once. 2nd Gen RAMS are horrible if they have over 80K on them, then you have to go through and do all the work to keep them going.
I have put $6000 in less than 1 yr of repairs in to it.
but I get about the same MPG now as a Hemi would.
Be aware that new Mopar V8s with very tight bearing clearances and 20 lb. piston ring tension take exceptionally longer to break-in than most competitive engines. (The GM engines are 2.0 lbs!) But you'll be less likely to be burning oil at 200,000 miles, also.
Regards,
Dusty
I also owned a 2002 RAM 1500 QUAD CAB 4.7L V-8 with a hard cover on back, synthetic oil, and the K & N air filter. On the HWY I could average 24 miles to the gallon at 55 to 60 miles per hour. I averaged 14 miles to the gallon in the mountains, pulling a small trailer doing 75. Not bad for the size of pick up and the engine worked great. Only problem was, my rear end went out at 40K miles. Lucky for me, it was covered under my extended warranty. That 4.7L engine is comparable to the old 318, and is easy to work on.
Mike
Regards,
Dusty
Ski in Austin
Since it sounds like you just got this vehicle used, I suggest performing a full tune-up: spark plugs, air filter, clean the throttle body, replace the PCV valve, oil change and new oil filter. I would strongly recommend a transmission maintenance, too, if this vehicle has over 50,000 miles on it. Your's has the 545RFE fully adaptive tranny. All it needs is a new set of filters and replenish the fluid with ATF+4. There are no bands to adjust on this fully electronic unit.
I've found tire pressure contributes a lot to good mileage and in some cases front end alignment. There's been a number of computer updates to the 2003, both for engine and transmission and you might find this will help.
Overall, however, driving style is the biggest contributor to gas mileage. Gentle launches, gradual increases in speed, lower speeds, and gradual stops make for a often large difference in fuel consumption.
Good luck and best regards,
Dusty