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Pontiac Sunfire

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Comments

  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Nope. Still waiting for a response.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    We have a 98 Sunfire. I had to replace two lug nut bolts on the front passengers rotor, because I broke two of the log nut bolts trying to take off the spare wheel from a flat that I didn't change. It required a special tool that I purchased at Murray's. :shades:
  • slopslop Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone else have their sunfire stop accelerating when they hit 110, its like the computer turns the acceleration off....also its almost like it breaks really quickly too, as I seem to drop to 105 fairly fast? If anyone knows how to remove this speed block, it would be nice to know. As 110 is not fast enough for me, and i know this car can go faster.
  • katy47katy47 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 sunfire that runs to hot going up hills it heats up to the caution section and sometimes to the red
    what could cause this? I've changed the thermostat, heat
    tempature sensor, I even put another motor in it and it still does the same thing, could the fan not be kicking on soon enough or what!!!!! NEED HELP FAST!!!
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Try changing both fan fuses which are located under the hood, in the black box, on the drivers side. :shades:
  • 95pontiac195pontiac1 Member Posts: 2
    What you are describing is a bad starter solenoid. The starter solenoid engages the starter motor when you turn the ignition key. The starter motor cranks (or turns the engine) until it starts. It could also be the starter motor. You said your brother-in-law started it with a screwdriver (so it sounds like the starter is good) just has a bad solenoid. The Solenoid is a large electric switch that carries the full battery voltage to the starter motor. It is activated by 12volt (small wire) from the ignition to the solenoid. If this (small wire) is not sending any electric to the solenoid, the car starter motor will not turn. It could be the (small wire) from the ignition not working properly or at all. Check for 12v at he solenoid with a multimeter ($8-12 at walmart) . Hope this helps.
  • bikergtpbikergtp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Sunfire GT (2.4 litre) and the oil light has started to come on during idle. At highway speed the light is not on. When stopped at intersections etc. the light will come on.
    The oil level is fine.
    Any ideas...?
    Thanx
  • caremitcaremit Member Posts: 1
    Does my car truly need a fuel level sensor if I religously put gas in my car. Dealer mechanic wants to charge me LOTS to put this in.
  • dgallengdgalleng Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out the problem with the back up lights not working? I just bought a 2000 Sunfire with the same problem, bulbs and fuses are ok. I also have a fast idle problem that I'm trying to resolve. Sounds as if there's a lot of Idle problems with this car, based on the Posts I've read. Don't really want to spend $150 on an IAC valve if that's not the problem. Will have to keep troubleshooting for now.
  • lori11lori11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 pontiac sunfire gt with the same motor. Have your oil pump checked. I found out the hard way when my oil pump burned up and shot a rod through the back of the engine. The car ran good until it made a winding noise and with in 2 minutes of the winding noise it shot rod out the side of motor and shut down. try that before you have any major problems because those motor are hard to find and very expensive. Good luck.
  • svt1687svt1687 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Pontiac sunfire 2.2 and I need the radiator replaced. Can anyone tell me the book time to replace it?
  • dgallengdgalleng Member Posts: 3
    I spent months on this and I'll bet over 50 hours of troubleshooting and looking for the solution on Auto forums like this. My 2000 Sunfire GT 2.4L 5 speed was consistently idling around 1500 rpm and stayed high when shifting between gears. Was a real pain driving this car. I first replaced the TPS, which I knew was bad, (my ohm meter showed it was open). The car still idled high so I spent hours looking for the proverbial "vacuum leak" that many people suggest. I removed and checked all the hoses I could get to, including the Brake Booster. I sprayed WD-40 all over the place looking for the leak, hoses mani gasket etc. Found nothing. Then I went a bought an IAC sensor, which I hoped was the answer, but again it still idled high.

    The first time I tried the computer relearn (unplug the Battery for a while) it didn't work. The solution came when I could consistently get the idle to normal (900 rpm for the 5 speed). I disconnected the electrical connector on the TPS, (just behind the MAP sensor on the throttle body). This would drop the rpm's to normal but if you try to drive the car like that it was of course crappy. Then I'd turn the car off, back on, and the rpm's would be high again. So I thought that the computer kept resetting it to 1500 when the power was off. So to fix, unplug the TPS to drop the rpm's to normal. I did this while the car was running. Then plug the TPS back in. The rpm's should stay down. Now, turn the car off and unplug the Battery for a couple hours to clear the memory. I have no idea how long is enough, but I did mine for 2 hours and it worked. This should tell the computer that the normal RPM is 900, not 1500. Make sure the car is warmed up before going through all this, as you want the car at normal operating temp and idle when you disconnect the TPS.

    Update:
    It's now been 2 weeks since doing all this and the car feels like it's brand new. When it's cold out (-20 C), the car will start and idle around 1200. As it warms up the idle will drop to 900 and stays there consistantly. 900 rpm should be the correct idle for the 5 speed. Auto's I think idle around 600.

    Shifting is now flawless, the rpm's actually drop when I push in the clutch which is how it's supposed to be. I'm posting this hoping that someone else reads it and helps them out. This seems to be a common complaint with the Sunfire/Cavalier cars. My cost to repair was $70 for the TPS and $125 for the IAC, Canadian $$. Could have been a lot worse, especially if I had taken it to a shop or the dealer. Lots of guesswork goes on, at the expense of the owner. My biggest investment on this issue was my time.
  • interceptor429interceptor429 Member Posts: 1
    where is and how do i change the thermostat on a 2000 pontiac sunfire 2.2 eng?
  • ashiblaashibla Member Posts: 1
    i was wonderthing if there exists a 5 spd option for the slx models from the year 2003 and up?
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    interceptor429, if you don't get an answer here, you might try asking in the Cooling Systems discussion.

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  • markf57markf57 Member Posts: 38
    Hi:

    I just bought a 1999 Sunfire GT convertible. The only problem is the odometer is stuck in trip and it will not switch to mileage. When I press and hold the reset button, it will not even reset the trip mileage.

    Any thoughts on what to try?

    Thanks,

    Mark
  • jchickjchick Member Posts: 3
    Odd, I have a 99 Sunfire Sport and it does not have the law manadated kill switch. I know it for a fact. I have barried that neeedle numerous times.
  • jchickjchick Member Posts: 3
    My 99 Sunfire has the same tempermental problem. Here are some suggestions:

    Leave the car in park while trying to switch.
    Press in and hold for extended extended period of time.
    Try pushing down and then in.
    Rotate the protruding button counter clockwise.

    Hope it helps.
  • jchickjchick Member Posts: 3
    1999 Sunfire Sport, 2.2 liter. Any one elses heaters acting up? First winter mine has done the following:

    Sputters off and on ( usually after driving down a steep grade)
    Amount of heat put out cuts in half ( usually after going down a steep grade)
    Gives off a light burning/ overheating smell off and on while driving
  • vfbird03vfbird03 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 96 sunfire with 172,000 miles on it. When I bought it it received a new head gasket, timing chain, major tune-up, new exhaust system, oil pan has been cleaned out, recently received new water pump, and many other newer parts, so it runs decent for a 170K engine. However, I am having a few problems with it that I was hoping that I may get help in troubleshooting.
    First item, my heater blower fan only operates at high speed or nothing at all. I'm under the assumption that it is the relay under the hood. I gave it some voltage, and it eventually switches on, but I'm not sure which voltage it is actually supposed to switch on. If not the relay, I'm guessing it's a loose harness.
    Item number two is that just today on the way to my favorite burrito joint my oil pressure light came on. It came on whenever I am sitting still. Whenever I start moving, it goes away. My parents had a 97 Cherokee a few years ago that did the same thing, a mechanic said that it was the cam bearings and that the engine would eventually be no good. However, later that day the oil pressure problem went away. It then successfully drove 1 1/2 hours with no problems after letting it idle 15 minutes.
    That problem was replaced with the radiator fan not turning on....if anyone has any information that may be of help it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
  • rahtorrahtor Member Posts: 1
    the prob with your blower is that there is a blower motor resistor that needs to be changed. It is located above the blower motor which is under the dash on the passenger side of the car. Had the same prob on my 2000 Sunfire GT. Replaced the resistor and it worked like new. I think it was like a $30 part. and it is easy to do yourself. all u need is a nutdriver.
    No idea on the oil pressure light though.
    good luck
  • dbeeredbeere Member Posts: 7
    Any Sunfire GT 2.4 when they reach say $100,000 KM' are nothing but a problem. I was a former inspection of GM vehicles. While I did not inspection the sunfires, but here in Oshawa, the majority of ALL GM vehicles relate to Electrical problems. As a second vehicle in purchased a Sunfire 2005 privately with only 5,000 KM. The engine light kepted staying on, found out it was running on 3 cylenders.

    No wonder GM is in the trouble :lemon: , so what do they do, join forces with Chrysler etc to try and get a bigger share of the market. They want to get into bed with someone of the Japanese vehicles, guess their jealous that the latter can build a better car.

    GM trucks are great. But shy away from most GM vehicles.
  • vfbird03vfbird03 Member Posts: 2
    Im no stranger to electrical problems. I work on Engine Control boards for a particular American car (I wish not to say due to the fear of being fired for saying anything negative about the company, you know how the hysteria is...). Plenty of job security, I'll tell you what.
  • dbeeredbeere Member Posts: 7
    Fully understand, and can read between the lines.
  • darkhumourdarkhumour Member Posts: 1
    All my issues, some unresolved.

    [symptom of bad alternator]
    Twice my car has had the dash indicators completely light up and lose power in the middle of driving. Both times it was due to a dead alternator. I had it fixed the first time and the replacement only lasted four months before being replaced again. The second time, recognizing the symptom, I quickly decided to coast through a red light (4 am) in order to maintain enough forward momentum to reach my street. The replacement part was free. The labor wasn't. Original quote was around $300-500.

    [Serious brake screeching]
    I was not paying close attention to my car except when it was making horrible noises when I used the brakes. Obviously needed those replaced. I think for the pads, rotors,and labor it was a little over $500. No more brake noise now.

    [Engine Light]
    I think it usually goes on if the car has 'gulped' air when you've pumped gas. I haven't seen it do that in a long time.

    [back left speaker problem: unresolved]
    My back left stock speaker sounded "blown" like a rattling sound or at least zero bass and low volume. I thought perhaps it was reversed wiring (phase issues). I replaced both back speakers with high quality Kickers and they worked for a while. Not much later the back left speaker started sounding bassless again. I suspected the channel on the radio itself is bad but I'm not sure. I was did basic tests of the output on a voltmeter and the phase was correct. I didn't hook up the speakers to a scope or switch connections between speakers to see if it is the speaker or the channel that has failed. I don't know yet. Maybe my car is allergic to Feindflug.

    [Shift light: unresolved]
    The light for showing what gear I'm in is no longer illuminated. How / Where do you replace the bulb(s) ?

    ["moody" auto chime: unresolved]
    My auto chime seems to be intermittent. Twice I've left my headlights on and it hasn't gone off.* I've also noticed that the radio doesn't automatically turn off when you open the driver's side door anymore. The manual clued me in to pressing button six on the rds stock radio while its off to adjust the volume of the chime.

    *I killed my battery so I bought an a/c charger to recharge it. It took about 15 minutes of running. That is a good item to have handy...if you're near an electrical outlet. I noticed starting the car seemed a little extra 'vroomy' but otherwise ok.

    [Magnetism]
    I thought I was losing my mind because whenever I put a compass in my car it never pointed the in correct direction. The dashboard is kicking out some serious magnetism to cause the compass to almost always point East.

    Step out of the car with compass. Works. Step inside and it spins to the wrong direction. I don't think it matters if the car is running or not.

    I wonder if I am giving myself an MRI every time I drive. ;)

    DarkHumour
  • d1726d1726 Member Posts: 2
    I live in Nova Scotia, Canada.

    I bought my 1998 Pontiac Sunfire 2.2L 4 door for $2,000 CAD in October 2006 with 194,000kms

    Since then i had to have the alternator rebuilt ($300) and have the gas tank ($100 used) the fuel pump ($150 used) and the filler neck ($80 new) replaced. There are 212,000 on the car now. Am i going to have more problems???
  • tounietounie Member Posts: 1
    My '96 Sunfire SE = 218,000 K- No problems
    selling only because I wanted a newer car
    changed alternator at 200 k
    did the battery once
    sparkplugs platinum twice.
    paint peeling was my majorest concern thus I painted

    No head gasket problems, never stalled,
    no problems with the electric system.
    4 speed automatic

    Buying a 2004 Sunfire coupe
    I want a 2007 civic coupe but wont pay 21+

    will buy it in a few years used.

    I had started with an 82 cavalier, total nightmare
    my 96 sunfire shocked me at how well it stood up
    and never had any mechanical issues, I am lucky!
    Tounie
  • fergie86fergie86 Member Posts: 1
    Okay.. i baught a 97 sunfire like a month ago and the guy said there was new brakes.. turns out only the front brakes are good and i had to get the back brakes done yesterday anyways.. i still hear this noise which initially i thought was the brakes but i guess not... its kinda by my feet when im braking or changing gears its like not so much grinding but like maybe a loose wire or something? does ANYONE know what im trying to say, cause i know nothing about cars and i dont wanna take it to a shop until i figure out what is exactly wrong because they'll tell me a million things that are apparently wrong with it and try and rape me of my money. HELP please SOMEONE ANYONE... HELP!!
  • pbrat31pbrat31 Member Posts: 1
    170 k. I have always changed oil and filters myself. Yesterday I was in a hurry and brought the Sunfire in to Jiffy Lube for a change. They put in high miliage oil and gave me a new resivoir cap for tank. They tested the coolant and it read 128 deg. They had suggested a flush. I figured it was a good idea, so they did the flush. PROBLEMS immediatly after.
    1. got in car ATS light stuck on, shifting into D VERY VERY hard. (clunking) went off in 5 min. or so. So far its ok.
    2. drove 30-40 miles, overheated. 0 fluid in tank.
    3. Got a new (correct) cap for overflow tank. its sealed and works fine.
    4. Now its leaking by tranny pan. by the block.
    Question. WHY? (freeze plug, cracked block) any suggestions????
    could this be from the flush???? the pressure machine they used???
    One things for sure they are not touching it now!!!! :P
  • masonjeep08masonjeep08 Member Posts: 8
    I know this is an old post ... but I'd like to try and find a root cause. I have a similar probelm with a 2000 Sunfire.

    2000 Pontiac Sunfire. The climate control fan only works on meduim high and high. The blower will not switch between feet and face anymore. Common problem?

    Mason
  • masonjeep08masonjeep08 Member Posts: 8
    2000 Pontiac Sunfire. The climate control fan only works on meduim high and high. The blower will not switch between feet and face anymore. Common problem?
  • leseuldanielleseuldaniel Member Posts: 45
    Yes, common problem.

    Happened twice in my 97. It needs replacement of a resistor in the circuit (there is one for the low and med-low speeds, and one for the med high and high speeds).

    Should cost less than 100$ with labor.
  • masonjeep08masonjeep08 Member Posts: 8
    Any idea if it is something I can do myself?
  • leseuldanielleseuldaniel Member Posts: 45
    No, sorry. But I'm sure it can be done, just never went through the trouble of trying...
  • acadianacadian Member Posts: 2
    Check under the dash where the cable connects to the controls. My 2003 Sunfire has this same problem and what happens is the cable bends when it turns. I use a pair of needle nose pliers and push the cable straight and it fixes for a while.
  • dvernerdverner Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 2.2L Sunfire with 113K miles which I resurrected after my daughter left it sitting for a year and a half. The car has a periodic vibration/noise (whu-whu-whu-whu-whu-whu)which increases with speed and grows in intensity turning to the right. I have had the steering/suspension/struts/CV joints/motor mounts/transmission checked, replaced three bent wheels, put on two new tires, had everything dynamically balanced and aligned but the vibration persists. Anyone else run into this? Thanks!
  • mysweetmelissamysweetmelissa Member Posts: 2
    Have you checked your outlet? It is the plastic piece that connects the heater core hoses to the engine. If it is cracked it will be leaking to the right of the driver's side tire right on top of the "tran fill" dip stick.
  • mysweetmelissamysweetmelissa Member Posts: 2
    Possibly the wheel bearings? My car had the same vibrations and I realized it was the bearings. That was the EXACT sound my car was making. It should cost you approx. $400 to do the front ones.
  • dvernerdverner Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Melissa. I took the car to a diagnostic center and within fifteen minutes they told me it was the bearings (although another shop said they were OK). The diagnostic shop replaced both front hubs (at a cost of $550) but the car is vibration-freeruns like a dream now. Thanks for your insight.
  • clandcland Member Posts: 1
    I have 98 Sunfire with a coolant leak. I bought this stuff that is supposed to seal small leaks. It says to put it in the radiator, but I have no idea where that is in this car. I've been adding the coolant to the surge tank. I've checked the manual etc., but it doesn't even mention the radiator.
    Can anyone tell me where it is?

    Thanks!
  • darkmatter101darkmatter101 Member Posts: 1
    GREETINGS. 09/08/07

    GM PONTIAC/SUNFIRE 1999, 4 Cylinders 2.2L SFI, Power Steering Pump, Power Rack and Pinion Steering Gear.

    Loosing power steering fluid. Can not locate the leak. The fluid is found on the Power Rack and Pinion Steering Gear assembly. Does any one know of this problem,or know of this as a characteristic feature of this model??

    Thanks to any one considering these questions!!
    Sincerely,
    darkmatter101 :confuse:
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Try having the engine running at idle. Take a flashlight and look under the hood at the power steering pump and lines, while someone is turning the steering wheel back and forth. (Usually, if it is one of the lines with a hole, it will only leak when the steering wheel is turning.) :shades:
  • alpharecon91alpharecon91 Member Posts: 23
    Hello im new to this forum and am hoping you guys can help me with my new car i am only 16 and i just bought a 2000 sunfire gt. my car is my baby and i want to keep it running as long as possible. i know sum stuff about cars but not a whole lot (breaks, changing spark plugs, belts, etc.) the car has 100,000 miles on it roughly, do you know of any special oils or additives that i can use to keep it running longer. the engine makes sort of a taping sound its hard to explain but iv been told a oil additive with stop this is that true. also when changing the breaks i made the rookie mistake of putting the studs on crooked stupid me instead of checking and making sure they were on straight i just went ahead and took a torque (impact) wrench to them. 2 of studs need to be replaced does anybody know how to do this? i asked 4 people so far and they all said line up the studs with the clearance point in the back and pound out with a hammer. i cant find any place the the studs with have enough room to be popped out. other then a minimal amount of body damage, what i have said already, and faulty abs system (which i couldnt give to s**t's about) the car is in very good condition. Any body with the awnser to my problems please help i would rather not pay a mechanic who will charge an arm and a leg to do this for me.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    I had a similar problem with our 98 sunfire. I was trying to take off the spare tire, someone else put on for my wife. They put the bolts on crooked and I broke two studs trying to remove the bolts. What I did was take off the rotor. I took a sledge hammer and flat head screw driver and pounded out the two broken studs from the front of the rotor. Take the rotor and one of the bolts with you to the auto parts store and purchase 2 studs, 2 bolts and regular nut to use to tighten and pull the studs through the rotor. (Make sure the new studs fit through the hole on the rotor and all the bolt too.) After you have locked the new studs tight in the rotor, with the regular nut, take off the regular nut and do the same with the next one. (Make sure when you pound out the old studs, place the rotor on two pieces of wood to absorb the pounding.) Let us know how you came out.
  • alpharecon91alpharecon91 Member Posts: 23
    if i understand you correctly your saying that the studs are fastened to the rotor on you 98 sunfire. when i replaced the rotors the studs were not attached to it they were attached to a piece behind the rotor. so the studs actually help the caliper hold the rotor on. so im going to guess that GM decided to make my life difficult and change something in the 2000 model that they didn't have on the 98 :( if im being a complete idiot and miss interpreted what you wrote please let me know maybe i miss understood or something i sure hope i did because i asked me cousin today how to do it and he said i would need a special machine to take them out :(. i think i may cry!
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    You understood me correctly. So what you are saying is, when you take off the rotor, the studs stay on the front axle. (Kinda like the rotor is just place on the studs, just like the tire rim is placed on the studs.) :confuse: If this is true, your cousin might be right. I'd still go to the auto parts store and ask the questions to confirm all that you've been told. Good luck :)
  • alpharecon91alpharecon91 Member Posts: 23
    thanks man i will do that and yes you understood me correctly as well.
  • igorotigorot Member Posts: 1
    My gas tank was leaking and my mechanic replaced the gas tank, put new gas tank and used the same fuel pump and assending unit. No more gas tank leaking. The problem is the gas leak is coming from vacuum canister at the front now when the gas cap is closed, and when I drive it for about a mile it will stall and leak a lot of gas coming from the front passenger side where the vac. canister is. When I leave the gas cap open it won't leak but still it will stall. Also replaced the vacuum canister too but still leaking.
    My mechanic could not find the problem and it is been a week he is working on this. We even put another gas tank on it too.
    Any feedback from anybody???
  • alpharecon91alpharecon91 Member Posts: 23
    if i were to geuss its probably a lose hose or a hole in it. my grandpa had a similar problem and i fixed it by finding the hole cutting out the bad part and replacing it with a bigger hose that the other hose would fit inside securly. does the car shake or vibrate when you are stopped at a red light or something?
  • alpharecon91alpharecon91 Member Posts: 23
    does anybody know how to remove a bumper and a fender from a 2000 sunfire 2.2L coupe? most of the paint is pealed off my bumber for some unknown reason i dont know if the previous owner got in an accident or what but its wierd cuz other then a really bad paint job there isnt really anything wrong with the bumber. iv been told by numerous ppl it cant be fixed so i will just replace it. when i attempted to take it off i couldnt find any bolts screws clips etc. also how do i remove the fender it is a little rusted and i want to refinish it the only way to do this correctly tho is to take it off and do it inside and out because there is rust on the inside as well. so ya any body with some ideas on where to find the bolts and what not would be greatly apreciated maybe a step by step :) that would be pretty nice but i wont hold my breath on that one. thanks
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