Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

1…78101213…15

Comments

  • spgmehspgmeh Member Posts: 1
    Have the same problem with my '03 Tahoe. Did you ever figure it out?
  • stephanie1971stephanie1971 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Tahoe and a couple weeks ago my oil pressure guage went from the normal 40 to 80 and stayed there. Now while at a stop (with the engine running) it brops to about 70 but when I drive it goes back to 80. I have had many people tell me it could be several different things. Wondering if anyone else had this problem before.
  • alston28alston28 Member Posts: 98
    I think the little electronic device on the key ring with the key, that you use to lock and unlock the doors, is called a "transponder." My "fell" on the pavement and no longer works. The electronic case separated, and the little circular disk fell out. I put it back together, but it no longer works. I see on the Internet several places that sell them. My question: if I get one from a place through the Interent, how do you "match" it to my Tahoe (2005)? Thanks.
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    The little "circular disk" is the battery and has to go in the correct way as it has a positive and negative side. Make sure it's in correctly before giving up on it.

    I got one on the internet for my wife's 2004 and the site specified which year I could order. Here's free "how to program" instructions: programyourremote
  • tahoess2004tahoess2004 Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2004 Tahoe w/Z71 package, 5.3L V8 MFI FF with 100K miles. Use it in my work and have to put on a lot of "road" miles. A week ago, it ran a little hot, about 220-230 F, not red-line. Carried it in to the dealer who informed me that the coolant was 1.5 gallons low. No noticeable leaks, no residue on engine. They pulled the valve covers and noticed coolant residue. They said that I needed to replace both cylinder heads, bolts and gaskets, approx: $3K, due to porosity of the cylinder head metal. Is this possible or am I being hosed? If true, why would GM due something this stupid and why wouldn't they feel an obligation to correct their mistake and why would it be just showing up after 100K miles of relatively good service?
  • jk06jk06 Member Posts: 7
    Have you noticed any coolant leaking on the ground? Chevy's biggest problem has been intake manifold gasket. My tahoe was leaking right behind the water pump fluid coming out of intake manifold and evaporating on the engine. I had added antifreeze several times and could not figure out where it was going. If you replace the manifold gasket buy them from GM, they have since redesigned the gasket. Aftermarket gasket I would not recommend!
  • alston28alston28 Member Posts: 98
    Is there a term for the plastic "housing" attached to the ceiling above the middle front seat, adjacent to the windshield? The covers the OnStar stuff and 2 ceiling lights. Anyway, it seems to have come unattached at the end adjacent to the windshield. Does the entire housing need to be replaced? Is this something I can do, or do I need to take it to the dealer? Thanks.
  • tahoess2004tahoess2004 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for your response. Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. As I pointed out, there were no visible signs of leaks or drips from gaskets or the water pump. The engine was very clean. I took it over to an independent mechanic and he went on-line to a website called "ALL DATA on Line" which appears to be a pay site & bam, there it was: "Engine - Coolant Loss With No Visible Leaks" This problem is not isolated to to Chevy Tahoes. Appears to effect several GM models and even Saabs from 2001-2006.
    Castech is the manufacturer for the cylinder heads that can have a defect that shows up as a porosity leak and even a small crack (in the cylinder head). "ALL DATA" recommends replacing the cylinder heads, i.e., $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 (estimate) while GM shows no remorse or responsibility. If you have direct contacts with the GM reps, let me know the feed-back you get.
    Thanks
  • alston28alston28 Member Posts: 98
    Turns out there's a screw that had come lose.
  • alston28alston28 Member Posts: 98
    Right rear brake light went out during warranty period - approx. 32,000 miles, 33 months. At dealer now - indication is that it's a warranty item. Service advisor keeps trying to push the transmission service on me. Online owner's manual says 100,000 miles, or maybe 50,000 miles depending on how Tahoe is driven. Mine is about 60-65% highway, rest in town. Think I'll wait until at least 50,000 miles.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Absolutely do not need the transmission service at this time.
  • smokey78smokey78 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out how to fix that squeaky noise in your Tahoe? I have a 2003 and I am having the same problem.
  • d1514sd1514s Member Posts: 1
    I have a Z71 2004 and was told the the cylinder heads needed replacement because of coolant loss with no visible signs from the engine. I had it done and only paid for the labor. The parts used were all listed as warranty. I am in the process of contacting GM as I would like to know why this repair should not be covered by them. The truck has 86000 miles on it. There was no loss of power or anything unusual happening to its performance. I will keep you all posted on the response, if any, from GM.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well the warranty is 36K miles, right? You're only 50K plus out of warranty...surprised they even picked up the parts.
  • tahoess2004tahoess2004 Member Posts: 9
    10/12/2008
    I had the same experience with my 2004 Z-71 Tahoe back in June of this year. There were no visible signs of leaks or drips from gaskets or the water pump. After being jacked around by the the GM dealer that I bought the Tahoe from and being told that I needed to spend between $3,500.00 - $5,000.00 for new cylinder heads, I took it over to an independent mechanic and he went on-line to a website called "ALL DATA on Line" which appears to be a pay site & bam, there it was: "Engine - Coolant Loss With No Visible Leaks" This problem is not isolated to to Chevy Tahoes. Appears to effect several GM models and even Saabs from 2001-2006.
    Castech is the manufacturer for the cylinder heads that can have a defect that shows up as a porosity leak and even a small crack (in the cylinder head). "ALL DATA" recommends replacing the cylinder heads, i.e., $1,500.00 - $2,500.00 (estimate) while GM shows no remorse or responsibility. I didn't want to put that much into a 100k mile vehicle, so we did a band-aid approach by installing some $4.00 radiator sealer that plugged the porosity leak. It's been running great for over 20K miles with no leaks.You will get no help from GM on this one.
    Good Luck
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes but that ALLDATA reference is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) and relates only to cylinder heads manufactured by Castech, and only to Castech cylinder heads that exhibit porosity issues upon inspection. So it's not all the cylinder heads and not even all the Castech heads.
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    $4 radiator sealer seems to have stopped my coolant leak too. Have not lost any coolant for about 7000 miles since adding it in.

    Arrie
  • tahoess2004tahoess2004 Member Posts: 9
    10/13/2008
    Mr. Shiftright,
    I think that is exactly what I said in items # 471 & 478. I specifically referenced Castech as the manufacturer of the cylinder heads listed in the service bulletin from ALLDATA.My disappointment on this issue is GM's position on repair and warranty. The problem seems to be fairly common if it is in a service bulletin and GM simply blows off their customers that are putting out some very serious money for an upper-end SUV. If Castech is putting out an inferior product, it would appear that GM would make them stand behind their product or find a better manufacturer of cylinder heads. The mechanic that got me to try the sealant could have taken the low road and told me the same thing that the GM dealer did, but he didn't. GM simply said, "sorry you have a problem", not taking into account they had sold me and others inferior cylinder heads. Their only suggestion was to replace the inferior parts they installed using my money for about $5,000.00 to $6,000.00. I own my own business as well and I don't treat my customers that way. By they way, the Castech cylinder heads showed up in certain Saab models as well, (reference # 471).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes I understand but I guess I was unclear that even the Castech heads have to "fail" the inspection to have been replaced in warranty period.

    So I see your problem as having two dimensionis here: a) did in fact your Castech heads fail the inspection or did they exhibit no evidence of porosity and b) even if they did fail, GM is not under any legal obligation to assist you other than "good will"--which apparently they did to 1/2 the price.

    I know it's disagreeable, but IMO the situation turned out better for you than it did for a lot of people.

    If I may at least suggest this: that you consider the use you got out of the heads in terms of mileage and that in a sense you got a "pro-rate" deal.
  • tahoess2004tahoess2004 Member Posts: 9
    10/13/2008
    Mr. Shiftright:
    I don't want to argue semantics or even perspective with you, all I'm saying is if GM is installing an inferior part on any of their cars and trucks that has been giving problems for a number of years, they should address it.Take better care of the people that have supported them through good years as well as bad. GM is trading today @ $6.46 compared to a year ago @ $42.84, maybe they can't afford to address anything, but keeping the ship afloat. By they way, I would not consider $5,000.00 - $6,000.00 to repair a defective part a 50% discount. I was quoted less than 50% of that by another mechanic.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes I understand. I was just saying that your prior use of the engine does count as value given you. It would be arguable that you receive total compensation. But I do agree their estimate for the work seems outrageous. Certainly not anything I'd agree to.

    It seems reasonable to me that you'd have the outside mechanic fix the truck. You can't buy a substitute for $2,500.
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    tahoess2004 said: all I'm saying is if GM is installing an inferior part on any of their cars and trucks that has been giving problems for a number of years, they should address it
    ____________________________________________________________________
    You are correct. Maybe I am old fashioned but I don't consider cylinder heads on an engine a service item....they should last as long as the engine block other than valve guides, etc. The heads themselves should not have defective castings that lets water seep through the metal. How the hell does this stuff happen? And why does GM not step up to the plate and take care of business on this stuff? I have an '06 Suburban approaching the end of factory warranty and I am now looking into buying an extended warranty to cover the vehicle for another 4yrs/40,000 miles because of all the transmission failures, $1,000 fuel pump replacements, etc. occuring on these late model GM units. My last new Suburban was a '92 and when I sold it it had 160K miles on it...with original fuel pump, transmission, engine, etc. As they say "they don't build 'em like they used to". Nowdays it is all electronic gadgets, nice interiors, fancy wheels, etc. I want an SUV with bulletproof power train and fuel pumps that last the life of the vehicle. Probably asking way too much.
  • untilitquitsuntilitquits Member Posts: 1
    My 'burb has 5.7L and 160K miles. We've been driving less and less with the high gas prices. I've developed a small leak around the housing where the oil filter attaches. What could this be? Anybody have experience with this problem?
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Evenin'

    Can anyone think of any problems if I replace my rear bench seat with 2 bucket seats?

    I have a 2003 Z71 Tahoe, so you know. (with 140,000 miles on it!)

    Thanks!
    Alex
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Biggest problem I can foresee is how you anchor them safely. One just can't go drilling holes in the floor. Your seats are anchored to specially welded points so if your new seats don't line up you're going to have to figure out how to anchor them safely. Drilling to thin floor sheet metals and adding some big washers is simply not good enough. Those will tear right out in a collision.
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Yeah, that was my first thought. Thanks for confirming the terrifying thought of the seats ripping out of the floor, ha!

    I just brought my truck in for a checkup before the winter. Its been making an odd vibration from the front left wheel area, especially when I turn right at highway speeds (65-75mph). We'll see what they come up with. Any thoughts?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well turning right "loads" up the left side of the car. Could be lots of things, from wheel alignment to funky tire to very weak springs/shocks on that side causing interference with the tire perhaps?
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    If it's 4WD then could be CV joint.
  • djollydjolly Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe. When I turn left or right while braking it will cut off. It doesn't do it all the time but did it twice this morning. I'm thinking whatever it is is getting worse.It will restart with no trouble though. I'm not sure if it's just a loose wire or something more serious. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That is bizarre. Is this a sputtering kind of thing, or is it like someone turned off your key and threw it out the window? In other words, have you ever been able to straighten the car out just before stalling and have it kick back on?
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    So, i found out that both front tie rods were warped, my rear brake pads are down to 4/32nd's (i think that's what he said), and both seals on my water pump were corroded, so it was leaking although I didn't see any evidence of that prior to bringing it in.

    Long story short, I had the tie rods replaced, alligned the front end, replaced the water pump and will wait on the brake pads. I lifted the truck when I got it back and rotated the tires just for sh*ts and giggles. The vibration is gone and it drives like it did when I picked it up in 03.

    A
  • 03cotahoe03cotahoe Member Posts: 12
    Afternoon guys-

    I take care of my truck (regular maint, oil changes, tires, etc) but its really getting up there in miles. I just flipped 140,000 miles the other day and was wondering if I should start being more proactive about maintaining it, with such high mileage.

    Any thoughts are appreciated.
    A
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes that's not a bad idea. You might think about those expendable items you have not touched or examined in a long long time, such as:

    belts
    hoses
    certain fluids that may need refreshing (brake, power steering, differential, coolant)
    age of your battery (if it's the original, it's getting tired)
    nut and bolt tightening of critical parts
    complete safety check
  • craigj2craigj2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 fullsize blazer and i have a lot of front end chatter, like it sounds sloppy, i can usally fix it myself i just need a starting point. and it is a 2door 4x4.
    Thanks for any help you can give me.
    craig johnson
  • relaxcharrelaxchar Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Tahoe. The lighter and accessory outlets, both front and rear, stopped working. I use the outlet to recharge cell phone. I do not know which fuse to replace, the fuse panel does not show lighter. The panel is on the very left side odf driver's side. Does anyone know which fuse I should change?

    Thanks
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Read the manual.

    It is stated there.

    There is another fuse box under hood on left side.

    Arrie
  • relaxcharrelaxchar Member Posts: 2
    Arnie,

    Found it and replaced the fuse. Back to normal now.

    Thanks for the help.

    Steve
  • CardsFan42CardsFan42 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a 07 or 08 Tahoe and was wondering how many miles is too many for a used one? I don't want to have to replace hoses and do routine mait after a few thousands miles.
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    A two or three year old truck s/b pretty safe unless it's had the wheels driven off it. Other than front pads, anything under 50K s/b OK. Now you w/ probably want to change all of the fluids just to be sure, especially if you're planning on keeping it for awhile.
  • jdosburnjdosburn Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone!! I was on the way to work this afternoon in my 2005 chevy tahoe, 5.3L, when the check engine light came on. I had about a 30 minute ride to work, but when i arrived i went in work but shortly after had to run back out to the vehicle to get something when i smelled engine coolant and looked under the vehicle to notice a puddle. I popped the hood and there was no where to notice it leaking fromt that view but the overflow still has some in it, not full though. But from what i can tell it seems to have leaked from the center to front of the motor, but not close to the radiator. Any answers will greatly be appreciated. Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like a waterpump.

    Make sure you fill your radiator before driving, you don't want to run your vehicle after/while loosing fluid, you could overheat and ruin your engine. You may have already done damage if you ran 30 minutes after the light came on.
  • momma989904momma989904 Member Posts: 2
    HI, I have 04 Tahoe V-8 with 79,600 miles always has the oil changed very 3k. Not much more I could tell you. My husband is oversea's and I am having problems keeping antifreeze in the vehicle. I have been to the dealer twice and this week will be the third time. They have done the dye test and could not find any leaks. The service manager even took the vehicle home for the night and no leaks or problems with the vehicle. Could someone suggest what I should do or who is accountable for this problem. Has anyone looked in the so called "lemon law". I need this vehicle to transport my children around and need a dependable car, it is hard because of my husband being out of the country. If this sealant works, where would I find it and how do you use it. Appreciate all the feedback....
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Could be a hose bad, could be a water pump bad and leaking, could have a blown headgasket and the water is seeping into the cylinder and being blown out the exhaust (very bad situation), could be a interior passenger heater core leak (carpet wet on passenger side?), or could be a couple other situations. If the dye test isn't finding a leak, I fear the blown headgasket situation.

    No 'lemon law' applies, you have this vehicle well beyond the warranty period, this repair is on you.
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Did they check for evidence of coolant in the oil? Did they do a pressure test?
  • momma989904momma989904 Member Posts: 2
    Well, the dye test was performed about 6 months ago and nothing was found. I have a feeling this is going to be a costly fix. I did take it to a different GM dealership (different from where we bought it) to see what they find. I do have some condensation coming from the exhaust, but nothing major. I hate this truck, if we wern't so up side down in it, I would get rid of it. Well I will keep everyone post, it is at the garage as we speak....
  • arriearrie Member Posts: 312
    Get a bottle of Bar's radiator leak fix from auto part store like AutoZone.

    I did for mine as I had the said coolant leak, which is quite well explained in this forum under coolant leak.

    It seems like there indeed is a major problem with engine heads with porosity leaks, which GM of course denies. After overheating my engine and pouring almost 2 gallons of antifreeze in it I found the coolant leak topic and there it was. I immediately got the Bar's leak fix and first it seemed to totally correct the issue. Later I learned that a leak still exists as I was still loosing coolant but very little compared to what happened first.

    Read under the correct topic, it is all there.

    Arrie
  • dkcreechdkcreech Member Posts: 4
    even tho my tahoe wasn't dropping fluids, the shop said it needed a new w/pump. with 83 k miles I relented cause I didnt want to break down somewhere that might reqjuire a tow. Was also told I needed some brake work. I expected to need new pads with 83 k miles. But do I need new rotors as well. How about just turning them? thnks/dc
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Did you ask them what led them to decide the w/p was bad?

    Unless the rotors are warped, scored heavily, or below minimum thickness, they shouldn't require turning.
  • dkcreechdkcreech Member Posts: 4
    Thanks shark, they said there was some seepage around the w/p and the
    reservoir needed to be topped off. But frankly one could pour a couple inches into it everytime you lifted the hood. And no they didnt say the rotors were warped, or scored. Only that the rear pads were worned down. Im surprised that the front pads werent worn instead of the back ones. I think my shop might have stung me. Its to bad, I used to think they were good guys.
  • 73shark73shark Member Posts: 325
    Typically the rear pads wear at about 2/3s the rate of the fronts. I'm guessing that they are probably the original pads.

    If you have to add two inches to the recovery tank often, then you are losing coolant someplace besides seepage at the w/p. Did they do a pressure test?
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles