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Ended up with new cam and a couple lifters. I now religiously check oil levels on all my vehicles on a regular basis, use Mobil1 synthetic, and never stretch oil/filter changes....always change way before their 'maximum' mileage ratings. Oil and filters are cheap insurance.
Who knows what else could cause it:
- Blocked/clogged oil passage (like plaque in your artery)
- The neighborhood kid, put a handful of sand into your oil filler tube
- A mislabeled case of oil, 2 oil changes ago, where you put in 0w10 unknowningly
- A clogged oil filter, three oil changes ago
- A metallurgic defect in the lifter, that somehow worked fine for 80K miles then showed up
- You driving at a 70degree incline going up the side of a mountain, causing oil starvation
- who knows, could be a bunch of things, and hard to 'prove' anything.
If the dealership is willing to pick up any of the cost (because you are perhaps a repeat customer, and they have performed all of the maintenance and have record of it), perhaps you buy the parts and they do the labor, consider it a gift, take it and run.
Curious to know if yours has roller lifters?
Thanks, Marty
I noticed that the grease fittings on top of ball joint were not being greased. Mechanic checked the front end; removed the splash guard and found several grease fittings. These had not been serviced during the life of the vehicle.
The Tahoe Owner Manual does not show chassis lube points.
Is there a lube chart for this vehicle available on the Internet?
TIA...Bill
Ball joints, steering fittings/couplings, drive shafts, etc.
Can you please email me your contact information (including a good number to reach you), VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and a break down of what you are/ have experienced (I understand this is repetitive its just to make it a little easier for me to get the ball rolling). I apologize for your frustrations.
Have a great weekend.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Can you please email me your VIN and current mileage? I would like to look into this situation for you. I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
Thank you for responding, however, I took it to another dealership today and they are fixing it for me. They are awesome and I highly recommend them...Hiley GMC, Fort Worth, Texas.
Thanks,
Glad to hear that you are getting this taken care of. If you have any questions comments or concerns please feel free to contact me!
Christina
GM Customer Service
Please email pr@edmunds.com Friday, April 29, 2011 to share your story.
Thanks,
Jeannine
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Thanks!
The dealer provided no mats or headsets for the factory DVD, only one set of keys, and no manual. The tires had major dry rot, which they were unwilling to change at sale. So we bought a set and the dealer didn't even give us a deal for purchase or install.
Within the past 24 months, we've had to have the rear lift gate fixed 4 times, the brake pads/rotors replaced/cut twice, the rear diff serviced and just recently replaced, the auto leveling suspension fixed, the check engine light fixed three times, and a coolant leak fixed. Oh, and a the battery went twice.
Now the clear coat is coming off the car, all over the place. The front driver side quarter panel is, in areas, down to the base coat. The plastic, color matched strips affixed to the doors are all brown now, look horrible. Unacceptable.
While I am glad I bought an extended warranty, I strongly advise against buying this car new or certified used. Poor quality. And the warranty won't cover our paint problems. Our attempts to have our concerns fell on deaf ears with GM corporate last year.
I have a 2001 Tahoe 5.3 2wd that has 160000 on it. I replaced the plugs and wires just for general maintenance and tune up, and now it wants to skip/idle rough at low speeds or while sitting still...what gives? I replaced the plugs with AC Delco Iridium pre-gapped at .040. Also put on new wires. My truck wasn't skipping before so it has to do with plugs/wires right? I rechecked everything, even put new wires on for a second time just to make sure they werent bad, and still no solution. I'm out of ideas...please help.
On Saturday, as I was driving on the interstate, my Check Engine light came on. I couldn't think of anything that would cause this at the time. The car was acting fine, and while I'm getting close on the oil change, the Tahoe is equipped with an oil change reminder as well (which has not yet shown up), so I was assuming this was not the case.
Fast forward to this morning, I get into the parking deck at work, and as I'm rounding the corners to climb from level to level, my car starts dragging as if I had a flat tire (though this was not the case). So I struggled to actually make the turns all the way up, my rear tires are squealing the whole way and I finally get it into a parking space.
I hop out, take a look around, no flat tire or visible impedance in the axles or anything, so I decide to give it another drive to see what happens. As I pull out of the spot, there is a loud POP underneath the vehicle. It sounded as if something was stuck somewhere and was jarred loose. Anyways, the steering loosens up, everything's back to normal....AND my check engine light goes off.
Has anybody else seen this happen before? Any experts out there have any ideas as to what it could be attributable to? I realize I should probably have the diagnostics run on it, but I'm also trying to avoid unnecessary expenditures these days.
Any intel would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kevin
Atlanta, GA
I’m sorry to hear about this rattling concern you’ve described and that the visit you made to the Chevrolet Dealership wasn’t successful in working towards a resolution. If we can follow up with the dealership for you and further investigate, please email us with your name, user name, contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and the name of your involved dealership.
Thank you,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
As for your fuel gauge issue, it could be the sending unit located in the gas tank or the gauge itself, I've seen both. Tell you Mechanic about it and he should be able to do some tests to isolate the problem. Hope this helps and
"Good Luck"!!
Hope this helps.
On to my 2007 Tahoe purchased with 43,000 miles, a virtual baby to me. I do approximately 45-55k miles per year and almost all is highway driving. Chevy replaced one front spindle bearing around 75k miles under warranty then a second spindle bearing the other side around 85,000 miles. All at their cost great for me right? Not so since these two components actually cupped the insides of all of my tires which were brand new so essentially wore them out to an unsafe situation prematurely. Pretty expensive when you look at 18" tires at close to 200.00 each. I just mounted 4 Blizzack snows before we were hit with that freak snow storm 4 weeks ago and last week saw the left front tire inside area almost worn smooth. Again almost 200.00 per tire. Now at 101,000 miles I'm told the upper ball joints are getting lose and need another 800.00 worth of repairs. Chevy this is disappointing and reflects on their light weight front end and their outsourcing to the lowest priced parts. This truck has had more repairs to the front end in 100,000 miles that my older Yukon has in 400,000. By the way it was again our of alignment another testimony to poor engineering and cheap parts. My 01 Yukon had 3 or 4 alignments in the 400,000 miles and not once did it cup tires or have any issues in the front end. I have to say Government Motors is making the choice of my next truck easy and it will not be built by them. This is not a truck any longer and if you plan on doing any heavy duty driving or have poor roads buyer beware it will cost you a fortune to own. For a vehicle that costs $55,000 new this should be an embarrassment to GM but knowing them it is not. At least we are not hearing claims "Like a Rock" on their commercials any longer. Think that in itself is a message.
Totally disappointed!
Got in Tahoe to go to work this morning, it was shaking like crazy, stabilitrak warning, traction warning, and the engine light blinking like crazy! Needless to say, I went straight to the dealership. First time it ever happened - no other warning signs at all.
Get the call from the service writer later that afternoon that the CAM Shaft & Lifters are bad and need replaced..something about a bad lobe..... and .....NOTHING IS COVERED!!!! Surprise, my 5yr/100k mile warranty is 4 months expired! I get a quote of approx $3500 to fix, give or take a few bucks. So my husband goes over to the dealership to figure out what's going on...finally gets it out of the service dept. that WE (me & hubby) didn't do anything wrong, and they don't know why it happened - but did say that a 2007 Tahoe with only 90k miles shouldn't have that problem.
So then I go surfing the net.....seems like this particular problem is an issue with every vehicle that has the engine that I have...5.3L. Then I talked to a few people who have Tahoes, Avalanche, etc...with my same engine...and they had the SAME problem. Some vehicles that were newer with less mileage than mine. My question would be.....WHY IS THERE NO RECALL ON THIS?
I'll even go one further, a friend of mine that had the same problem talked to someone who is "in the know" - and I learned this is a common problem - happens all of the time - and sometimes you "get lucky" and it happens when the warranty is still in force. In the last 5 years, My husband and I have purchased 3 GM vehicles, 1 for me, and one for each son. Also, my husband owns a company that has fleet trucks, also GM. Is General Motors that unconcerned that they just let this fly? I don't know about anyone else, but I am not rich, I am struggling right now just like everyone else and we work hard for our money. To have this "common problem" come up 3 days after xmas - and just a few days prior to property taxes and insurances due - and then learn it'll be about $3500 to fix - it ridiculous. If this is a common problem - and it is known to be a problem by the dealerships and mechanic shops - then why do I have to pay for it - shouldn't GM take care of this? Tahoe is sitting at the dealership, and it is not driveable.
I intend on trying to see what can be done, but from the other posts I've read, it doesn't appear as if General Motors cares about keeping loyal customers such as myself. Hopefully I will be able to enlist the help of the service manager, but if not, then I'll call GM and see if I can talk to someone.
ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS PROBLEM???? How do we get a recall going?
From reading these posts, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that nothing else lets go!
Thanks for your comments
Two winters in a row I replaced the Mass Airflow sensor, (seemed to help but not completely) the third winter it threw the same code, my mechanic didn't think it could be that so he started other things, plugs and wires, throttle position sensor, throttle body, and THEN a MAF sensor.
By this time weather was warming up and it was running better, however, then I started getting "Reduced Engine Power" messages. My mechanic gave up so I took it to another mechanic. After 6 weeks he replaced the throttle body AGAIN, ran great until the weather got cold. Now I am back to the reving and cutting out. (The reving is a LOT of fun when road are bad) And I am starting to get the Reduced Engine Power messages again. The diagnostic machine says "lean on bank one (or two)". Once the temp gets up into the 50's for a couple of days the Check Engine light goes off and it runs great until the temp drops again.
I LOVE this vehicle except for this issue and I'm sure it is all related but we just can't find the problem. Does anyone have any ideas?
Oh, he checked the pressure on my fuel pump and said it was 52 off, 40 something when cranking. Is that low? I have never heard of a fuel pump going bad that way, I thought they just "quit".