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I have not been able to tie it to any specific thing (A/C, etc.). The only RELIABLE way to stop it from doing it is to rev the engine reel high. that arrests the symptom for the moment, and voltage returns to normal. I have tried checking wires, etc. I am on my third alternator/voltage regulator on advice from shops. During the first two changes, it did not happen for 3 months after the new one was installed, and then it starts again. On this one (a new one NOT a rebuild) it began right away.
Could this be a broken down ground wire? So by revving the engine I am increasing the potential and jumping some small breakage in the wire? Visible inspection does not show any broken wires, etc. Has anyone else seen this - or do you have any good ideas on troubleshooting I could do. I would greatly appreciate any insights. Thanks!!
The fact is though that the only thing in the car that can produce higher than 12 V is the alternator. The battery can not hold more than 12 V. This is the logical reason why you have been told to change the alternator and / or voltage regulator.
After three changes it makes me think that those parts are not to blame though. What would be the odds to get three new parts that all are bad?
How about the car's comtuter? I don't know myself but does it have anything to do with alternator voltage regulation?
What about the battery itself? Have you checked the water level in it? If it is low could it actually loose charge as you drive and then the alternator must put out too high voltage? Perhaps not...
It might be a bad connection in the regulator sensing wires. By this I mean that the wires that connect the voltage regulator to battery voltage could have partial connection so that the voltage regulator sees lower voltage than what the battery actually has. This could lead to over voltage at alternator as it would 'think' voltage is lower than it actually is. You mentioned yourself the ground wire but it could be the other 'hot' wire too.
Where to look for these wires I have no Idea but there is I think four wires in the harness connection to the alternator's control port. The thick red wire is the charging wire to battery.
Just trying to give some ideas to look at...
--Arrie--
Even with the high gas prices we love our Tahoe. Dropped of 5 kids at school today. Really need to think about painting it yellow. Are stop signs an accessory?
--jay
Yep! first, its not rust. The rear hatch it aluminum. whole thing weighs about 25 pounds (without glass, hinges and plastic). We just had ours replaced at no cost two weeks ago. They gave us a whole new door and new paint job.
What I heard from the bodyshop manager is that aluminum can have corrosion issues in some cases. I saw to old one and there really wasn't a serious corrosion issue other than the paint not sticking well. Even checked out the inside and it looked like new(plastic and latch removed so I could see down to the seems).
The body shop (Chevy dealer) took about 3 or 4 weeks to get it OKed by GM, but stood behind it 100%.
--jay
Had a lot of issues with gas mileage. I have posted in Tahoe forum a lot about it.
The other issue was lack of power like when getting to go from stop light or other stand still. This came and went but in the end of it was always very powerless. Clearly something was wrong. If the engine sometimes is very powerful and sometimes (most of the time) very powerless there must be a problem of some kind, right?
Long story short, after changing almost all sensors I think I finally found the real problem, the intake manifold leak. GM has this issue on their own TechLink page, which I included with one of my posts. This GM Tech Link page tells about an issue with the intake manifold gasket of L59 engines (the Z engine). I went to check mine and found that all intake manifold bolts were LOOSE.
To make things right I purchased a new set of intake manifold gaskets and installed them following bolt tightening instructions in a Haynes manual for the Chevy trucks up to year 2002.
After changing the gaskets my truck behavior changed 100%. I now get really constant gas mileage at 18.2 gpm at interstate speed of 75 mph. It repeats really well what it did not do before. I can also see the difference in the end of tail pipe. It has that correct light brown/gray color, black disappeared and has nor come back since I fixed this about 6 weeks ago.
Get-up-and-go went through the roof compared to prior the gasket change. I assume your main complait with lack of power is with the feel when you start from stand still?
My explanation why gasket change helped my Tahoe is that with leaking gasket intake manifold pressure was too high at idle speed and when I stepped on gas pressure raised way too high and retarded engine timing too much leading to lack of power. One clear sign of this was that when I step on gas and let the car accelerate power suddenly kicked in after engine rews went high enough. Now that kick comes in almost immediately.
--Arrie--
Thanks!!
I plan on taking the vehicle to the dealer on Monday. The last time this occurred I was told it was a "software issue" with the on board computer.
Has anyone had this problem?
end i wont to install aside step bed
if somewon know were i can by it
thenks benny
Thanks in advance,
Molarman
Anybody have any ideas?">link title
Another one to check is the MAP sensor. In my Tahoe it is located on top of the intake manifold under a plastic bracket.
Arrie
Thanks, makes me feel better that I am not the only person scratching his head on this problem.
Kevin
Kevin
I pulled the Silver fuse 25 and the 30 just for grins...nothing...
It works once in awhile...
I pulled the Silver fuse 25 and the 30 just for grins...nothing...
It works once in awhile...
But he was just guessing...Said he would have to go in to check to make sure. Either way...sounded expensive.
Also... he said that its a common problem wit these trannys. Anyone else with this annoying problem????
The quick temp. fix to this is to give the center console a good ole' beatn'. Hit the back side of the console (at the foldable cup holders) firmly a couple of times and that should stop the whinning thru the speakers.
If you haven't already found this remedy.
I notice this post is fairly old. If you found a permanent fix, let me know....
But i think the BOSE amp is shot and thats where it is located. Cost for the amp....about 300 dollars... Installation cost ???
When parked, and if im braking, the steering assist is not there. Its like trying to steer a tractor.....very hard.
It also makes a noise when I'm turning hard thru a corner....I can feel some resistance in the steering thru the turn...
Is this normal??? I've read somewhere were this was ok...It just doesn't seem like a 40000 dollar truck should be doing this...
Anyone with the same proble...or suggestions???
Codes can be read by a simple OBD II scanner that you can buy for about $100. Very good tool to have. Pays itself back fast. Dealer ask about $80 just to check codes.
You can also have codes read by a car parts store for free. At least I know AutoZone has this service.
Have codes checked and post again.
A quick guess about your problem since you mention that temperature went below 20 is that your intake air temperature sensor might be bad. If it is it takes to change the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) as the sensor is built into it. This is approximately $200 part.
Arrie
Recall Date:
FEB 04, 2004
Summary:
CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, PICKUP TRUCKS, AND PASSENGER VANS FAIL TO COMPLY WITH THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 135, ?PASSENGER CAR BRAKE SYSTEMS.? SOME OF THESE VEHICLES WERE PRODUCED WITH AN OUT-OF-SPECIFICATION BRAKE HYDRO-BOOST HOUSING RELIEF VALVE BORE.
Consequence:
CONSEQUENTLY, THE VALVE O-RING SEAL MAY FRACTURE. STEERING EFFORTS MAY BE SLIGHTLY INCREASED WHILE BRAKING OR PARKING. UNDER CERTAIN DRIVING CONDITIONS, A FRACTURED SEAL MAY REQUIRE A SLIGHT INCREASE IN THE APPLIED BRAKE PEDAL EFFORT TO ACHIEVE THE SAME VEHICLE DECELERATION RATE AS PRIOR TO THE SEAT FRACTURE.
Hope this helps ya.