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Within the first five minutes twelve drove by. Decided I would try and also count the west bound Hyundai's Lets just say in the next ten minutes the count was over thirty with the first twelve included.
Daughter drove to wrong exit so we had to drive to the north side of Melbourne. Saw five more in the ten mile trip. As we were pulling out a beautiful Venitian Blue Azera drove by, we stared each other down and waived.
From Melbourne to Daytona Beach we stopped counting but would point at each Hyundai.
Bottom line, there are more Hyundai's, least it seems that way, then there are multiples of other makes, yes there were a number of Honda's and Toyota's but they were out counted.
These shimless tappets are supposed to last the lifetime of the engine.
Think:
Front engine pulley and crankshaft harmonic balancer
Engine front cover(s)
Timing chains
Intake manifold surge tank (aka "plenum chamber")
Both cam/valve covers
Camshaft(s)
Only then can the lifters/tappets be withdrawn from their bores in the cylinder heads and replaced.
Anyhow, congrats on your purchase! I've seen quite a few new Azera's and they look great on the road. Try to vary the speeds without accelerating too hard initially. -Peace
There's no contradiction at all. Keeping the engine speed above 2,000 RPM while driving will avoid lugging the engine. This is more of a concern for vehicles with standard transmissions. Since the Azera has a 5-sp automatic, there's really no concern since the transmission shift programming won't allow you to lug the engine down to too low an engine speed. Not exceeding an engine speed above 4,000 RPM will elliminate undue wear during break-in. This would only be a concern if you force a downshift for all-out acceleration, or purposely manually downshift the transmission with the "Shiftronic" feature. Hyundai's simply cautioning you not be do either until the engine's moving parts have had an opportunity to ease-in to their final alignment - aka, "break-in". Once break-in is achieved, feel free to redline the tachometer to its hard cutoff of 6,000 RPM all ya' want and drive any speed you feel is prudent (or willing to chance a run-in with the law) to do so and have the income to afford the gasoline it takes.
It says that for the first 1200 miles you should go no faster than 55 mph. The next sentance in the manual says you should stay between 2000 and 4000 rpms. I find this condradictary.
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The first 1200 miles list are recommendations. In the manual it states: "No formal break-in proceudure is required." But then they go on to list 7 recommendations.
I would just avoid anything "hard" and abrupt -- accelerating, stopping, towing, etc. I just drove "normally" and everything is perfectly fine with my Azera.
You are right when there are some contradictions. You HAVE to go below 2000 RPM -- even with lightly footed automatic shifting it goes below 2000 rpm.
Remember these are just recommendations and NOTHING is required for break-in on that engine. I would just relax and take it easy.
And congratulations on your purchase. Fine automobile!
Will try a photo in this post.
Toyota Stalls Briefly?
Tourist Sees Balloon?
Texas Shore Beachhouse?
Tacoma's So Boring?
Tennessee Southern Boarder?
Ten Sobbing Ballerinas?
Ok it means Technical Service Bulletin.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Audible inspection for valve clatter will suffice for the regular maintenance.
That's the standard industry practice.
You don't go open up the engine when there's no performance or NVH issues.
It's like performing open heart surgery to see if the arteries are OK. You don't want the doctor to do that for a regular check-up, do you??
Also keep in mind that the shop manuals are written for professionals, not for armchair mechanics or shade tree types.
For consumers, Toyota even gives the definition of valve clearance inspection.
http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php?v=3&y=2006&int_id=12
http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/definitions.php?v=3&y=2006&int_id=12&done=1- - -
BTW, are you aware that Honda still uses set screws for valve lash adjustment?
The kind that Hyundai ditched more than a decade ago moving up to hydraulic lash adjusters?
The last Hyundai that had that set-up was 1994 Excel.
Any clue on the inherent flaw of the system? I'll quote something just for you in the CR-V forum.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ee94ff9/15945
msg. #15946
I personally have never liked or used sunroofs when they were included on the cars I've owned. I think they are a waste of money and wish I didn't have to automatically pay for them becuiase I want every other feature on the car.
Maybe Hyundai will get this right when they price the 07 models.
A> a rattle source
B> a leak source
C> a headrom obstruction
D> a wind roar source
E> a broken glass source in the event of a rollover
F> something else to go wrong over time
G> most often largely unused
H> all of the above
For people who want'em, fine - let the price of a sunroofless Limited be adjusted downward with the sunroof option priced to equalize the final vehicle price to match current pricing. But this questionable "feature" should not be mandatory just to make life easier on the factory floor and/or give Hyundai "value" bragging rights. Hyundai's not stupid, but on this issue the company's behaving as if it's brain-dead. Mandatory sunroof inclusion is a deal buster on any car I'd be contemplating.
I agree the sunfroofs ought to be an optional accessory. We have the wind deflector and I don't think it adds anything to the looks of the car. Actually I think it looks a bit cheesy. I'm curious about the noise levels without it. Been thinking about taking it off and see what the difference is myself. Wife gets nervous when I grab tools and head for her car.
With all the sun we get here, Fresno area, we try to avoid the sun. The sunshade covering the sunroof inside was the ticket that helped sell us on the Azera.
1300+ miles so far and no complaints heard.
Don
http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/autoline/watch.php?stream=1026
http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/autoline/watch.php?stream=1026-extra
If you don't plan on keeping the car for too long, I woulnd't recommend getting the extended warranty. However, if you're like me and planning on making this your last car for a good while...it's worth the investment.
http://www2.lightband.com/~sjoseph/hazera1.jpg
http://www2.lightband.com/~sjoseph/hazera2.jpg
http://www2.lightband.com/~sjoseph/hazera3.jpg
http://www2.lightband.com/~sjoseph/hazera4.jpg
Between the tempered glass, the motor drive assembly, additional electricals, and the sliding sunshade I wouldn't be surpised that's an additional 50 lbs. after deducting for the missing roof panel metal weight. Probably not a significant difference in terms of braking/handling and fuel economy for those who crave the great outdoors inside, but a point nevertheless. But the lion's share of that additional weight is right where you don't want it - at the very top of the car where it can generate maximum centrifugal force during emergency maneuvers. Thank you.
I first washed the car, then claybarred it to make sure there was no soil or remnants from the manufacturing process. Put on two coats of Zaino polish along with their gloss enhancer in between. I will get pics posted when I have time.
PS> I purchased and installed the factory accessory mudflaps to cut down on the lower rocker panel splash. Saw this as a problem with the Limited's wider 17" wheels and tires. They are an ok DIY project, but you have to remove the tires to do it right.
If that's the case, would a car with a 1/4 tank of gas be more proned to spin versus a car with a full tank? Considering the fuel tank is positioned more towards the rear of the car...19 gallons of gas is pretty heavy. However...wouldn't the ESC system on the Azera counter any of this???
I'm sure it will be even more of an issue when I change the tire/rim package.
About how long did it take for you to install the splash guards?
The tinted plastic sunroof wind deflector attaches with two clips held by phillips-head screws. You can have it off in a couple minutes - maybe less. It'll take about that long to remount it. I had a '91 Sonata with a sunroof. I found the spring-loaded puny pop-up metal deflector that's part of the sunroof hardware just about as effective at controlling noise and wind buffeting as the add-on tinted plastic wind deflector. The plastic piece rested in a place of honor along the garage wall thereafter.
Has anyone else noticed a shadow on the driver's side in the projected headlight beam?Adjustment horizontal/vertical does not alleviate the shadow. Inside the bulb housing there is a metal "wall" the exact shape as the shadow which is cast. The shadow disapears when high beams are on-but can't drive with them on all the time. Dealer at a loss. This is driving me nuts while traveling at night. Any suggestions?
yeah, that uneven "silhouette" drives me crazy too...is this something that can be fixed with new bulbs, or is it just an inherent design flaw? :confuse:
i'll try having a dealer play with the adjustments, like someone above mentioned
The factory flaps just pop into place and there are four screws that are already holding trim. You just remove them, place the flap and then re-install the screws. The flaps are shipped with new screws as well.
I got mine from ebay, as the local dealers want big $$ for any factory parts. Do a search for Hyundai mud flaps and you may find a set listed. There are different sets for front and rear. I also bought factory oil filter cartridges from ebay at 6.85 apiece. The local dealer wanted $18.
Good luck