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Engine Removal
blackchevy1990
Member Posts: 3
Im taking the engine out of my 1990 Chevy Silverado 350, 5.7 liter. I have no clue what the torque converter-to-drive- plate bolts are, or where they are. Can anyone help me?
0
Comments
Are you sure your experience level is up to this?
When your pulling bolts, place them in plastic bags and mark the bags as well. I know these things sound basic but you'd be surprised how many people forget these steps, especially if it's their first engine pull. And I assume you have a Chilton's or other manual for the removal and that you've read it a few times.
And don't forget to support that tranny; if you don't whoa boy!! A suggestion, don't let that step uncle of yours handle that or any other job. ;}
Relatives, you just can't get rid of them.
Welcome to the Forums.
Unfortunately you seem to be in the wrong topic here. This topic is strictly for Engine Removal Questions.
Try using our "search forums" feature to the left of this page and type in the keyword "Technical Question" for one possible place to post, or "electrical gremlins" for another.
You can also use "browse by vehicle" to find other owners who might have come up against this problem.
thank you
MrShiftright
Host
I have checked Mitsubishi forums but they don't seem to know for sure. I've gotten 3 different answers.
1. Have to pull trans with engine.
2. Have to drop trans, then pull engine.
3. With Auto trans, support trans, unbolt torgue converter and push into trans, then can pull engine.
Does anybody know for sure what works?
Sure would appreciate some help'
Thanks
John
Engine
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and intercooler.
If equipped with AWD, remove the transaxle and transfer case.
Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.
This appears to be the procedure given in the Chilton's Manual. If you look about 10 lines up the page you will see it says" After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported". It doesn't defrentiate between A/T and stick trans. I don't think you could get enough clearance to get the engine off the trans input shaft of a stick trans. That's why I don't care much for these aftermarket manuals. There is always something they don't tell you. The incinuation is that you can take the engine out w/o the transaxle whether it's a stick or A/T.
I also have the Haynes Manual. It says you have to remove the transaxle- period.
The Mitsui Mechanic I talked to said he wasn't sure if you could pull the engine on an A/T and leave the transaxle in. He said they usually pulled them togather. That might just be to generate more revenue.
The Mitsui forums didn't address the A/T trans, only the stick and said you had to pull both.
I should have the Factory Manual in a couple of days, I'll see what it says. I still think there is room to pull the engine and leave the transaxle in place. I have made my living the past 20 years repairing all kinds of Machine tools and industrial equipment, much of which I had never seen before. I had a reputation for being able to repair stuff nobody else could so I think I can handle it. It's just kind of nice to talk to someone who has actually done something your not familiar with if you can.
I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Will post back with what I find out. Maybe somebody else will find the info helpful.
Thanks,
John
Yes, you can remove just the engine in a Mitsubishi Eclipse with an Automatic transmission. The Factory manual says you have to pull the trans first, but I found that is not necessary. This will only work for cars with A/T trans, Sticks will have to pull the transaxle or pull it with the engine. Most people I spoke with say they drop them out the bottom of the car but this requires getting the car high enough to have clearance to get the assy out.
1. Remove the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. This will give you about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance to move the engine away from the bell housing.
2. Remove the battery.
3.Disconnect and label all necessary hoses and wiring plugs.
4.Remove the starter and lay back out of way.
5.Remove the A/C Compressor Mounting bolts and lay the compressor back out of the way, may need to use wire to hold it back. Do Not break any refrigerate lines.
6.Remove the Power steering pump bolts and lay the pump out of the way.
7. Remove the alternator.
8.Disconnect throttle linkage and lay back out of way.
9. Remove the radiator and fans.
10. Remove the exhaust header pipe.
11. Remove the torgue converter access/inspection plate.
12. Remove the 4 bolts in the flex plate/converter connection. Rotate the engine clockwise using a screwdriver in the flywheel or a 1/2" drive ratchet in the crank pulley.
13.Push the torgue converter back into the bell housing. May be stuck in pilot bushing. I made a couple of retainers to put pressure against the convertor and prevent it from coming out with the engine. I used 2 pieces of 12 Ga steel about 1 inch wide X 2 1/2" long. Drill hole in one end, bent in about a 45 deg curve. Attached to Front and back of bell housing with Inspection plate bolts. Don't dent or bend the torgue convertor housing.
14. Connect hoist and take a strain on engine.
15.Remove bell housing bolts.
16. Remove top engine mount linkage near timing cover.
17. Carefully rock engine to help break torgue converter/pilot bushing loose.
18. Move engine clear of convertor and bell housing, then slightly forward so intake manifold will clear solenoids on firewall, then up and out of car.
19. Go slow and keep looking around engine to make sure nothing gets hung up.
Note- First step should be remove the Hood.
This allows you to roll the car back outside or whatever while you work the engine over. Only requires a Cherry Picker or other suitable hoisting mechanism.
This is the general procedure. Common sense is still required . Saves alot of time and effort.
Hope this might help others needing to pull the engine in an A/T equipped car.
John
Thanks,
Corey
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Okay..check..is starter out? are battery cables off the engine block? Are you separated from the trans completely?
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Drain the engine cooling system and the engine oil into separate drain pans.
3. Matchmark and remove the hood from the vehicle.
4. On 1997 models, remove the battery.
5. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands. It will be most convenient if the truck can be supported so underhood access is still possible. Otherwise, the truck will have to be raised and lowered multiple times during the procedure for the necessary access.
6. Unplug the Oxygen sensor electrical connection.
7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. On some models it may also be necessary to disconnect the catalytic converter from the exhaust pipe.
8. Remove the braces from the engine and the transmission (if equipped).
9. On 1998-99 models, remove the starter motor.
10. Unbolt the transmission and separate it from the engine or, if necessary, remove it from the vehicle.
11. If necessary for clearance on 1998-99 models, remove the alternator rear brace by unfastening the bolt and nuts.
12. Disconnect the ground straps from the engine block and remove the drive belt.
13. On 1997 models, GM recommends that you remove the water pump.
14. Remove the A/C compressor and bracket. If possible, set the compressor and bracket to one side without disconnecting the lines.
15. Tag and disconnect the hoses and transmission coolant lines engaged to the radiator, then remove the radiator.
16. Remove the power steering pump and cap the power steering lines to avoid contamination.
17. Tag and disengage the heater hoses from the heater core in the bulkhead or from the manifold.
18. Disconnect the 12 volt supply from the mega fuse, if necessary.
19. Tag and unplug all electrical connections and wiring harnesses.
20. Tag and unplug all vacuum lines.
21. Disengage the throttle cable, and if equipped the cruise control cable.
22. If necessary for clearance on 1998-99 models, remove the EGR pipe and the EGR valve.
23. Disconnect the fuel lines.
24. Install a suitable lifting device to the engine.
25. Remove the engine mount bolts and carefully lift the engine from the vehicle. Pause several times while lifting the engine to make sure no wires or hoses have become snagged.
Thanks,
Tony
Rebuild should mean "all parts renewed or machined back to factory spec" (e.g., rebore cylinders with oversize pistons, re-machine crank with oversize bearings).
Overhaul means "bad parts replaced, serviceable parts left alone". This usually means new rings on old pistons, maybe new bearing shells on an old crank, and a valve job and a paint job.
Unless the rest of the truck is really pristine, I'd go for a junkyard motor that's been tested, bagged and warrantied.
Thanks
1. Disconnect battery ground cables and remove engine cover.
2. Drain cooling system, then remove front bumper, grille assembly and gravel deflector.
3. On models equipped with speed control, unfasten speed control servo bracket and position aside.
4. On all models, scribe hood latch location, then remove latch and cable assembly from grille upper support bracket.
5. Remove upper grille support.
6. On models equipped with A/C, discharge refrigerant from system, then remove A/C condenser.
7. On all models, disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from oil cooler and radiator, then remove oil cooler with mounting brackets.
8. Disconnect radiator hoses from engine, then remove fan shroud, fan and radiator. The fan retaining nut has left hand threads.
9. Remove vacuum pump and drive belt, then disconnect vacuum line from transmission modulation pipe.
10. Remove alternator adjusting arm, adjusting arm bracket and drive belt, then pivot alternator inward toward engine.
11. Disconnect alternator electrical connectors from alternator and fuel line heater.
12. Disconnect water temperature sender electrical connector from left front of cylinder block.
13. Disconnect water temperature overheat lamp switch electrical connector from top front of left cylinder head.
14. Remove engine ground cables from bottom front of engine.
15. On models equipped with power steering, remove steering pump and bracket, then disconnect and plug return line from steering pump and position pump aside.
16. On models equipped with A/C, disconnect refrigerant lines from A/C compressor.
17. On all models, disconnect vacuum hose between injection pump and vacuum regulator valve and position aside.
18. Disconnect and cap fuel heater inlet line from fuel filter and fuel pump.
19. Remove air cleaner and intake duct and place a suitable cover over intake manifold opening.
20. Disconnect and cap fuel filter outlet line from fuel filter and injection pump, then cover the injection pump and fuel filter openings.
21. Remove fuel filter return line, then the fuel filter and bracket as an assembly.
22. On models equipped with A/C, loosen A/C compressor mounting bolts and rotate compressor toward engine.
23. On all models, disconnect and plug fuel inlet line at fuel pump.
24. Disconnect accelerator and speed control cables, if equipped from injection pump and bracket on intake manifold and position aside. Remove cable bracket.
25. Disconnect engine wiring harnesses and position aside.
26. Remove transmission kickdown rod, then disconnect heater hose from water pump and right cylinder head.
27. On models equipped with A/C and/or auxiliary heater, remove hoses from bracket at left rear of engine.
28. On all models, disconnect oil pressure sender electrical connector from rear of engine.
29. Disconnect fuel return line from left rear of engine, then remove transmission oil dipstick tube attaching bolt from rear of right cylinder head.
30. Remove engine oil dipstick and tube.
31. Remove ground cable to cylinder block attaching bolt, then the 4 upper transmission-to-engine attaching bolts.
32. Raise and support vehicle.
33. Remove engine mount attaching nuts, then disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds.
34. Remove converter inspection plate, then the 4 converter to flywheel attaching nuts.
35. Remove starter cable, then move fuel, line on No. 1 crossmember down and aside.
36. Lower vehicle and attach suitable lifting equipment to engine.
37. Support transmission with a suitable jack and remove remaining engine to transmission attaching bolts.
38. Separate engine from transmission, then raise engine high enough to clear No. 1 crossmember. Move engine forward and remove from vehicle.
39. Reverse procedure to install.
Thanks
plz help because i am abought to drop in the 6g72tt in it and i kneed it 4WD
Maybe a subscription to this mag might be a good start for you?
http://www.prerunnermaniac.com/
Looks like they know how to set up a PU for fast desert racing!
It would be a challenge to one's fabrication skills! :surprise:
Seems to me that any off-roader would need a long travel suspension kit and some way to widen the tire stance.
Thank you