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I've made too large an error, and it needs fixing. Feel stupid not having asked before purchasing. I just walked into a showroom for a look...soon enough I was being shown wheels, and tire combinations, with a technical guy telling me that this low profile combo will allow you to lower your car to get that "ultimate" look. :confuse:
Anyways, I'll look around for a better deal this time around.
Thanks again.
i bought a 90' accord couple mnth's back. it had sat for a yr or more. upon first getting started on a list of problems, i had to replace the main balancer (the dampner got burnt completly off due to the ac compressor lock up, i replaced it as well) full new ignition system from ignitor to plug, new air filter, oil change, vss sensor, few holes pached on the exaust, had to clean the coolant return port on the fast idle valve and tighten the retainer for the valve itself, and the basic car care stuff. i got the car cheap and i figure its a honda with 164 k on it, got at least another 200 k of life left right.
any way im really amazed with this car. i smoked an 02 S-10 pickup 5 spd on a quarter, he wasnt pleased! after all is said and done, its already quik but as time goes on my foot grows heavier. im more intuned to make this car faster befor i make it prettier, as if i pulll up next to your sweet ride and rev it and u see a beet up old accord without so much as a glossy finisher on the paint job, ull be a little more pissed off when ur seeing that im still running the original tail lights as well.
im used to v-8 builds but i have started to become more attuned to the rice rocket genra. im really turned on to watching 4 cylinders beet 4 berrals. i have a 1990 honda accord ex and as stated earlier with what i have fixed, i wanna know good mods for this little car, like air, intake, exaust, more or less good packages that have proven them selves in the past. im checking out other sites as well for the same information and im researching as much as i can befor i start makin a rice roket to be proud of.
im a very hands on kind of person and have a good knoledge of auto works so any quike mods the home mechanic can do at home really cheap would be great as well. like you read earlier ive already sunk quit a bit in so im now broke for a little bit. my other honda is a 97 passport, i know there identicle for rodeos but say what you want the honda badge has kept this one runnin with f-150 on the trail and up to 3 foot of water and hasnt missed a beet yet, unlike most rodeo's iv heard of latly.
any way qiuke cheap mods are a plus + but if u know a good combo thats proven itself on my modle, im all ears!!
thanks for your time!
Couldn't find 215 50 ZR17 anywhere near I live. I visited a few Bridgestone tire shops, but they said this is a rather obscure spec tire, and they don't stock it. I'm going to try and search for this tire at a few other places, but am not too sure if I'll find it.
However, they do have the 235 45 17 spec tire, and I'm wondering if I should go in for that.
Could you explain how much more taxing on the suspension would the 235 45 ZR17 be? And would there be suspension related problems later on?
Just don't want to make another mistake.
Thanks.
Bridgestone is a good but pricey brand, and is known to have occasionally made sedan tires that are all but impossible to balance, like those on the early 04 Acura TL.
What seems like an oustanding value - because of their consumer best buy rating - are Falkens; their 215s start at $81.00/tire delivered. Add $50.00 for your local Costco or Sam's to install them. Here's a link: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/searchTiresBySize.do?sw=false&cs=215&ar=50&rd=17
Higher speed-rated brands also available on that and the Tirerack site.
Wider tires wear the suspension down faster because their "tire patch" is more transverse than longitudinal. Simply put, you'd feel the force of the wind (road irregularities) more if you held your palm frontally (wide tire) rather than sidewise (thinner tire) against it. Hope that explains it to some extent.
Good luck, and consider the online route.
Anyone know where i can find some pix? Anyone see a stock vs. lowered an inch or so? How does it look? Not looking to slam it down, just make it a tad more aggressive.
Thanks all! Have a great one!
I've pretty much decided to go in for the 235 x 45 R17 spec tire.
Just a couple more questions before I make the purchase. I know both are sort of given considering the change, but just want to know if it'll be a discernable difference.
1. Would I experience discernable loss in power/acceleration due to the wider tires?
2. Would there be a significant loss in fuel economy?
Appreciate all the help.
I've bought the 235 x 45 R17 spec tire, and it works like a dream. The steering feels more tighter and heavier, more like my Camaro. and the car feels more sure on the road. Yes, there's a bit of extra road noise, but I don't mind that too much.
Thank you very much for all your inputs.
Can't comment on the Saturn, but I know for a fact that Hyundai uses conventional halogen gas filled tungsten filament bulbs in their stock lowbeam projector headlamps on Sonatas. I suspect the color shift at certain angles is the result of chromatic aberration at the periphery of the single element projection lens. (An achromat "doublet" lens would all but elliminate this effect.) I can't say I've noticed any Sonatas exhibiting the purplish effect, so either your observation skills are better than mine or some Sonata owners have converted over to HID setups.
Steve, Host
A cold air intake on the 7th generation Honda( 2003 and newer) won't do anything. The air pick-up is already off the ground on the drivers side just behinnd the left wheel cowl. It already picks up cold air away from the engine. I did put on a Borla exhaust, very nice sound, maybe minimal horsepower gain.
Anzo halo projector headlights with black housing. My only problem so far with these are the fact I don't know how to aim them yet. Beware of ebay. I still don't trust some of those deals. I paid 250 including next day air and I have an actual speed shop which I can contact for help
Eibach springs and Koni adjustables. No problems ( I've been using this setup for years and love it)
Stereo done.
For people who have road noise issues etc, please check out dynamat, its good stuff. I have 3 bulk kits in my car and it makes a substantial difference. I do still have tire noise, but its because I have 18's on it. Each bulk kit should cost no more than $125. It took me abous 9 hours to install. That equates to roughly 300-400 if you hire a shop to do it.
If anyone can help me with engine and tranny upgrades, it would be extremely appreciated. I'm looking for a direct bolt on turbo (preferred) or supercharger. I also have a line on a new 6 speed manual out of an 05 coup. I want to upgrade the tranny to a 6 speed but am unsure how extensive that job is. If anyone knows, please share
peace
Anyone have experience with this? If so, is there an AUX connector in the radio to which I can connect the DMP1? Where did you put the the console and hard-drive?
Appreciate any advice.
There is no AUX connector on the current (seventh) generation Accord audio systems.
blane, may I ask how you know? Have you looked at the back of a stock radio in a new Accord? My understanding is that it is the new 14-pin connector that goes right into the radio.
Here is the converter (look for compatibility list under Important Application Notes):
http://store.yahoo.com/logjam/piehon03pcson.html
It is discussed in this forum:
http://www.xmfan.com/viewtopic.php?t=15775
Here is someone who mentioned it in another forum:
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-message?message_id=405540
I must say, though, that I have not come across a single person who has said that he or she has successfully installed the Omnifi DMP1 on their 2004+ Accord. Someone had done it on his 2002 Accord.
You wrote blane, may I ask how you know? Have you looked at the back of a stock radio in a new Accord? My understanding is that it is the new 14-pin connector that goes right into the radio.
I cant swear that there isn't a connector at the back of the '05 radio. There wasn't one in the '04.
I was referring to an easily accessible AUX port at the front, such as in the newly designed '06 Civic EX's. That will probably be a feature when the newly designed Accords arrive in '08.
There is a 14-pin data connector AUX in the back of the 2004 Accord stock radio for at least LX & EX (not sure about DX) for which you can get an RCA-AUX adapter that I mentioned earlier. I'm going by what I've been told by car stereo techs from multiple places. I have not personally looked at the back of a 2004 Accord LX & up radio.
1) there is a 14-pin data connector AUX at the back of a 2005 Honda Accord LX AT stock radio. Stands to reason that it should be there for the other trim lines. The AUX connector is intended for adding a cd-changer and it works great to connect an after-market audio input.
2) an adapter is needed to convert RCA to the AUX mentioned above. I can confirm that PIE's HON03/PC-SON works very well. The sound from my MP3 player has to be heard to be believed.
I will be putting together an install guide with pictures for putting the Omnifi DMP1 in a 2005 Accord, but suffice it to say that it is pretty easy to do as long as you are prepared and have the right tools.
Also, I called up INJEN and they told me they were working on the intake for 05.. but not even sure when's gonna come out..
Cheers,
MidCow
cruis'n in 6th :shades: ,
MidCow
I also noticed that several people had some bad experience with ebay projectors, but has anyone had any good experience, or have any recommendations (my accord is silver, so i don't think black housings will look good)?
Do you anticipate that Honda will honor the vehicle warranty when your headlamp lenses melt due to the excess heat from HIDs?
I'm aware that HID's give off a lot more heat the standard gas bulbs, but I have seen conversions done without melting stock lenses, just havn't seen it done on the 03-05 accords yet.
On HID, projector, and simple bulb upgrades, which I've also looked into, some hard realities:
1) True HIDs include a voltage-boosting and stabilizing "ballast." The bulb technology is totally different, being gas-and-metal filled (zenon being in the mix) and whose gas is ignited by the ballast's electric arc. It's daylight-bright but extremely expensive.
2) Projector light conversions are, in the US aftermarket, mostly for appearance and whose light technology is conventional halogen. Their most noticeable effect is a different, not brighter, light pattern.
3) Bulb upgrades like those from Sylvania are just slightly brighter; any brighter, and temps would melt the wires. Those with a blue appearance are just tinted blue for effect.
HIDs appear blue or purplish because of the extreme brightness; the blue hue is the result, not the cause.
So there you go; functional super-bright, bluish headlights on an Accord are the expensive ($800) HID conversion. If they're just bluish and not any brighter, it's the $70 tinted bulb upgrade. Add different, and not brighter, white pattern, it's projector ($340 with bulbs).
There's a little more to it. The single element headlamp projector lenses commonly used have no correction for chromatic aberation (which would require, at a minimum, at least two individual lens elements making up the projector lens to achive an "achromatic" design), and that's the real cause for the purplish tinge until the oncoming driver is fairly close. The bluish quality is, as you stated, a direct result of the xenon high-intensity discharge principle that emits well into the blue region (6,500 degrees Kelvin or greater). Though HID lighting is currently de rigour, that bluish tint is not the ultimate answer - these lights achieve their range by shear brute force. A lower Kelvin temperature (in the 5,000 degree range) but with at least equal intensity to current HID technology would actually give farther penetration - particularly in foggy conditions. (That was the reason foglight lenses were at one time tinted amber.) Whether this is even achievable is probably immaterial - the current "standard" has been adopted as the end-all by drivers worldwide by now. The proof of that statement are the blue-tinted conventional halogen-filament bulbs that actually reduce light output from that which could be achieved from the same wattage bulb without the blue tint on the fused-quartz envelope.
For starters, replace the Michelin tires with Bridgestone tourers. Michelin MXV4+ tourers, good as they are performance-wise, are quite noisy. Additionally look to "Dynamat": http://www.dynamat.com for additional sound control material.
The stuff's self-adhesive, trimable, moldable over irregular surfaces, (and pricey - but it does work wonders). To do it really right, remove the seats and headliner and then apply to the entire floor, inner roof, and what interior firewall sheet metal you can reach. (One BMW owner even applied it all the inner surfaces of his car's trunk and trunklid.) Repeat for each door's sheetmetal after removing the inner pannel and window-related hardware. Given the tire replacement and a "full-monty" Dynamat treatment, your Accord will be as close to a tomb-like experience as you can achieve in an automobile.
That's my personal experience, and I found that illumination quality is better with the stock bulbs, whose yellowish tone seems to provide better contrast against darkish asphalt surfaces.
I've gone from the short-life blue bulbs to the less-yellow Sylvania XtraVision with good results (Silver Stars are supposed to be even better than XtraVision).
I bought a new 2005 honda accord few months ago. Yesterday i received my projector halo angle light from www.k2motor.com. I didnt receive any installation info can anybody help me how to install that thing or atleast how to remove the headlight. I would really appricate it. If anybody wants to have a look you can go to this link http://www.k2motor.com/0305.html
Thanks
FK
Were you guaranteed that these parts are compatible with your vehicle? Do they require you to modify the wiring harness to install Asian headlights in an Ohio-built vehicle?