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Honda Accord Modifications

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If you are going to lower the car, it will not improve the ride or noise level. If the suspension has less travel, it will have to be stiffer, or it will bottom out. Many people do this however, because it can improve handling. If you go with more than 1 1/2" drop, you need camber kits also.

    I would not go with anything lower than the HFP package myself. Do some more research.
  • oldmansioldmansi Member Posts: 40
    the Tein H-tech and the Eibach Pro Kits give the same drop. 1.4 front and .7 rear. This is for the 06/07 V6 coupe. the sedan is a little different drop with the pro kits, not sure about the H-techs. the H techs are from 03-07, whereas the pro kits are only for the 06/07 , as seeing how the 06/07 models are heavier than the 03-05 models I believe the pro kits are better becuz they made this springs exclusive for these two years. Also, h&R doesnt make the OE sport srings for the coupe, assuming you have thecoupe, as they make the OE sport only for the sedan. I think the H&R sport springs (from what I heard ) are a little more stiff/harsh than the pro kits and the drop is I believe 1.5 front and 1.3 rear, which I think is too much for this car personally. I was thinking of getting the pro kits for my 06 V6 coupe just to get rid of the excessive wheel well gap but with the stock ride quality being so firm, any king of drop will make it worse. so most likely will keep it stock.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The Pro Kits are very popular, and I have not heard of any problems with them. The amount of drop you mentioned sounds about right too. :D
  • stevehechtstevehecht Member Posts: 96
    For the '06-'07 sedan I believe the H-Tech drop is 1.4F/0.7R and the ProKit is 1.5/1.0. I have heard enough about the H-Tech to question their quality as compared with Eibach or H&R. I agree with you about the drop on the H&R Sport being a bit much (for me and the car) given the additional decrease in ride quality. From reading the consumer reviews of all three on TireRack.com (ProKit, H&R OE Sport, and H&R Sport) I've decided to go with the OE Sport. Those reviews talk about a noticeable improvement in handling/steering response with mild increase in firmness for the OE Sport. That works for me. If they're put on the lower perch of the Koni Yellows in front that could give a drop of about 1.0F/0.75R. That's about right and H&R's reputation for quality is good too.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Is the rear sway bar a bolt on or does the bar require brackets to be welded or drilling to the sub-frame? I think if I go with a VP I will probably go for the H&R front and rear sway bars so it doesn't feel like a boat and then upgrade to firmer shocks later.
    I haven't thought much about tires/wheels but that is for another forum, and also inflates the budget too much.
  • frat_brackfrat_brack Member Posts: 1
    i have an 07 accord coupe not the v6. lowered it with the eibach sportline kit. and i hear this noise coming from the rear springs. i did not do my research it was an impulse buy def turning out to be a mistake however i was wondering if anyone knows a way to solve this problem tried spacers already didnt work. when people sit in my backseat it elimintes the noise. any ideas?
  • wagondriverwagondriver Member Posts: 1
    I have a '95 Accord and since I had a shop replace my exhaust my mpg has dropped 4. The tailpipe looks small. Where can I find specs on what it should be?
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Hey everyone. I have an '02 EX Manual, and I dont really like how tall the shifter is. Has anyone ever changed their shift kit and/or have some good recommendations for a shorter, more comfortable shifter?
    Is it difficult to do?

    thanks for your help.

    -Nate
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I know there are kits to make the throws shorter, I don't remember seeing any that make the shift lever itself shorter. Do a search for short-shifters, and see what comes up.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    There should be a whole host of short shifters for your car. Some give you shorter throws, some give you a physically shorter shifter, which will also yield shorter throws as well.

    -mike
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    have you come across any mike?

    I have seen a neuspeed one, but that was an adapter. For the most part what I have come across are short shift kits, which simply includes an adapter to reroute the shift cable. while is shorter shift would be fun, I am more conerend about shortening the length of the shifter.

    any recommendations would be helpful.

    thanks.

    -Nate
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I don't know of any that are specific for hondas, I've seen a ton for Subarus so figure there should be ones for hondas. You could bring your stock one to a machine shop and have em cut it down for yah.

    -mike
  • blaneblane Member Posts: 2,017
    http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ord-Auto~performance-Short~Shifter~Kit-1-30333.ht- m

    http://www.autodynamic.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=SS-HA9802

    http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=2002+short+Shifter+Accord&btnG=Search
  • winjurywinjury Member Posts: 1
    accelerate faster? adding an intake for power gains to such an old and small displacement motor is a phycological thing. becasue it makes more noise people think their car is faster. if anything, your car will respond better- thats all.
  • dairyshickdairyshick Member Posts: 129
    I'm not looking to break the bank, but I'd be up for some small changes to give my car an additional horsepower boost...but without voiding the factory warranty at all. I have an '06 Sedan V6 6-speed.

    My only miniscule thought so far is adding a K&N air filter...just the one that fits right in where the stock air filter sits. Has anyone who tried this noticed the benefits?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Air filter is probably the Only mod you can do that wouldn't possibly void your warranty (and even a K&N *can* void it, if you over oil it for instance and the oil ruins the MAF sensor)

    -mike
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (15 U.S.C. 2302(C))

    I would look at doing an exhaust and a an intake of some sort. If you live in a place with a stable climate and not too much rain, you might look at a cold air intake system, although this may add some noise. AEM makes a water bypass thing that supposedly keeps your motor from sucking up water.
    A less restrictive exhaust system may add some power as well, along with some noise.

    Either of these should have a negligible effect on your warranty unless they are causing an issue for another component.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Both of those can cause issues and can cause warranty issues. CAIs are very easy to hydrolock in any kind of rain situation. Having too little back pressure IIRC can cause your exhaust valves to get burnt. Not that this would stop me from doing any of these! :)

    -mike
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    CAIs are very easy to hydrolock in any kind of rain situation.

    Like I said:AEM makes a water bypass thing that supposedly keeps your motor from sucking up water.

    Having too little back pressure IIRC can cause your exhaust valves to get burnt.

    I believe the back pressure is in the cats, which are legally mandated so I think you could use a sewer pipe for your exhaust and still have enough back pressure to prevent injury. A Walker, Borla or Dynomax are all considered stock exhaust replacements, your you could go with a Japanese aftermarket hot-rod type. That burning exhaust valves sounds like a turbo related issue also, I don't think NA cars can get that hot.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    So I was discussing my disappointment with some aspects of the Accord with one of my friends and he suggested the Acura TSX A-spec suspension components. He also mentioned the Acura crowd seems to go to a larger rear sway bar as well.
    I also found a Mugen short throw shifter, but I think its 6speed only.
    I think that would allow the car to remain mostly OEM but a lot more fun to drive.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Honda makes a performance suspension for the V6 Accord. It lowers the car about an inch (lowering the roll center) and is considerably stiffer.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Which is great if you have a V6 Accord ;) The TSX uses the same 2.4L 4 cylinder mine does, albut in a higher state of tune, so the weight should be very similar in the front end.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Oops, had you confused with the Captain (SE V6 I think). The TSX is a slightly smaller car, but I guess the suspension would work. There is a huge aftermarket following for Hondas, so I'm sure you kind find something to fit your needs.
  • oldmansioldmansi Member Posts: 40
    Actually, Honda does make the Honda performance suspension for the 03-07 Accord V6 which does in fact lower the car about 1 inch , but according to people who have installed it , its only slightly stiffer than stock and not what I would call considerably stiffer.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I think the way to go is Koni Yellows and Eibach whatever they call the smallest drop kit. Tokico has their "blue" like that might also do the trick, but those are strickly 40k mile dampers, while the Konis have maintenance but should last a lifetime.
    I still think I am just leaving it stock for a year and then getting something more fun.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    CAIs are very easy to hydrolock in any kind of rain situation.

    Like I said:AEM makes a water bypass thing that supposedly keeps your motor from sucking up water.

    If it keeps the water out, then you will not get the air-flow benefits of a CAI. Also a lot of CAIs suck in hot air from the engine compartment, which basically any of the negligable gains you get from a CAI.


    Having too little back pressure IIRC can cause your exhaust valves to get burnt.

    I believe the back pressure is in the cats, which are legally mandated so I think you could use a sewer pipe for your exhaust and still have enough back pressure to prevent injury. A Walker, Borla or Dynomax are all considered stock exhaust replacements, your you could go with a Japanese aftermarket hot-rod type. That burning exhaust valves sounds like a turbo related issue also, I don't think NA cars can get that hot.

    Nope, not a Turbo issue as the turbo itself provides all the back pressure the engine needs, so anything downstream that lowers the backpressure won't lower it below the level that the turbo provides.

    As for the cat itself providing back pressure, that is true to a certain extent but then putting on something after a restrictive cat (one which would provide the proper back-pressure) is irrelivent in terms of flow because the bottleneck is still in the cat.

    Essentially on an NA car you will want a certain amount of back pressure in order to keep your low end torque. If you put a real big open exhaust on an NA car you'll loose a ton of low end power. If you are only doing a catback, it's mostly for the noise, not the power so it doesn't matter what you put on.

    -mike
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Like I said:AEM makes a water bypass thing that supposedly keeps your motor from sucking up water.

    Air Bypass Valve for Cold Air

    PDF of flow rate report

    If it keeps the water out, then you will not get the air-flow benefits of a CAI.

    Doesn't seem to be the case.

    Also a lot of CAIs suck in hot air from the engine compartment, which basically any of the negligable gains you get from a CAI.

    If its sucking hot air from the engine compartment, its not a cold air intake. CAIs only work when the car is moving though.

    Nope, not a Turbo issue as the turbo itself provides all the back pressure the engine needs, so anything downstream that lowers the backpressure won't lower it below the level that the turbo provides.

    I agree that the Turbo is the biggest bottleneck, but bing self sufficient for back pressure was not so much so in the case of RX7s and Supras.

    As for the cat itself providing back pressure, that is true to a certain extent but then putting on something after a restrictive cat (one which would provide the proper back-pressure) is irrelevant in terms of flow because the bottleneck is still in the cat.

    I concur; that is my point.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    IMO, the very small hp gains from a catback and CAI, are usually lost in torque, which is what these engines are already lacking. All that's really gained is noise. The guy at the auto parts store will tell you what you want to hear, to get his commission. ;) Today's cars are designed pretty well, and gains from intake and exhaust modifications are minimal (not worth the cost).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    IMO, the very small hp gains from a catback and CAI, are usually lost in torque, which is what these engines are already lacking. All that's really gained is noise. The guy at the auto parts store will tell you what you want to hear, to get his commission. Today's cars are designed pretty well, and gains from intake and exhaust modifications are minimal (not worth the cost).

    That is what I was getting at. :)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Also a lot of CAIs suck in hot air from the engine compartment, which basically any of the negligable gains you get from a CAI.

    If its sucking hot air from the engine compartment, its not a cold air intake. CAIs only work when the car is moving though.

    Yes but a lot of CAIs suck in hot air from the engine compartment, essentially the cold air comes through the radiator, gets nice and HOT and then is sucked in through the foam filter in the engine compartment. This allows more flow, due to being less restrictive, but negates the greater flow by sucking in hotter than normal air.

    -mike
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It's just so nice to finally see someone who agrees with me. I see so many guys with CAIs and "fart cans" I wonder what they really think they've gained. They see the greatly exadurated hp gains advertised by manufacturers of CAIs and catbacks, and believe it. :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Absolutely. I have been working on Subies doing mods over the years and it's amazing how many kids throw on a catback and CAI and claim they feel the power. I laugh at them. We've thrown em on for them and I've actually felt the drop in power due to the mods! Amazing :)

    -mike
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Then they add 50 pounds of ground affects and a giant wing, to top it off. :surprise:
  • bug4bug4 Member Posts: 370
    I know this is not a performance modification -- but you guys/gals would be the ones most likely to know . . . . how soon might we expect to see after-market accessories for the newly designed 08 Honda Accord? I would be very interested in replacing the front grill in my new Accord, but there are none available at this point. Any idea how long it might take? (I wish the mesh grill from the coupes would fit on the sedans -- I think they are WAY better looking!)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd say 2-4 months, depending on demand. Unfortunately on family sedans it sometimes takes longer than a "tuner" car to get the aftermarket stuff.

    -mike
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If you modify your car in any way, I suggest saving the original parts, so you can re-install them if and when you decide to sell the car. Modifications lower the value of the car. Not that the car is actually worth any less, it's just that many people assume modified cars have been abused.
  • bug4bug4 Member Posts: 370
    Thanks for the advice - makes sense!
  • fuzzuyfuzzuy Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I like to ask a question here hope some one can answer that please and thank you in advance that I have 2004 accord v6 and orignal tire size is 205/60/R16 and now i want to install 235/60/R16 snow tires on it can i do it and if yes that will it effect on performance or not let me know please as i am getting these tires pretty cheap compare to new ones so that's why thanks in advance
  • kingsfan11kingsfan11 Member Posts: 2
    This would not be advisable, as it would increase your overall tire diameter more than 5%. Check out www.1010tires.com and then click on "Tire Size Calculator". You then select the original/stock tire size (205/60/16) and then compare it to the tires you are comparing it to (in this case 235/60/16). You will note that a pop-up "warning" states that anything that is more than 3% diameter change could result in brake failure.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I like to ask a question here hope some one can answer that please and thank you in advance that I have 2004 accord v6 and orignal tire size is 205/60/R16 and now i want to install 235/60/R16 snow tires on it can i do it and if yes that will it effect on performance or not let me know please as i am getting these tires pretty cheap compare to new ones so that's why thanks in advance

    I don't think there is enough clearance in the wheel well for a 235mm wide tire, especially when using a rim that has the stock offset. Also, I think the 235 is too wide for the stock rim so you would be looking at aftermarket wheels.

    Lastly, typically people go narrower with snow tires for improved traction, not wider. Wider tires can hamper performance in snow conditions.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yup exactly what the other folks have said.

    You want to go narrower on snow tires.
    Your rims will likely not fit those tires.
    Your wheel wells and struts won't clear them.

    So you'll spend more to get the "cheap" tires to fit properly than just buying the correct size.

    -mike
  • fuzzuyfuzzuy Member Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for an early reply here.
  • nrborodnrborod Member Posts: 79
    I have a new '07 AccordEXl v6 4 door with 3000 miles. Tires Michelin MXM 17" 215 50 series. Good handling, pretty quiet, and overall effect is very firm. Maybe a little too firm for me. Wondering about putting on 55 series rubber, and I've heard all kinds of negative responses: will screw up such a compurerized car, won't make a real diff, waste of money, etc. One mechanic who only does Hondas said it wouldn't hurt the car.....and one tire guy said I could mount 225width tires on the same rims and that could make a diff....SOOO, what's a guy to think? Any people out there with REAL experience with this car? Or, should I just take a pill. Let me know.
  • oldmansioldmansi Member Posts: 40
    well I have a 06 V6 Accord with the same wheels and tires that you have and yes the ride is VERY firm, almost too firm but not quite. The stock Michelins are adequate at best. I agree, they handle ok but are noisy. These 17 inch tires and 50 series tires have much to do with the frim ride. I was thinking when the time comes to replace them with a H rated tire in the same size which MIGHT provide a somewhat smoother ride. Even tho I am not a big fan of Michelin tires I have read good things about the Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S in the same size as some have claimed that the ride quality on these is much better than our stock tires. Others have said to look for a touring tire instead of an all season performance tire as the softer compound of these tires may provide some smoothness. and yes, you can put on a 225 tire on that rim but I cant comment on whether or not that will help as I would think that it just gives you a wider footprint, maybe it helps I dont really know. and I dont know about your car, but I find the steering to be very heavy. Almost seems like there is no power steering. It takes some effort to steer this car off center. but maybe thats just me. Anyway, this is all just my opinion and others may disagree, but hope it helps . and good luck. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It depends on how much the overall diameter and weight increase. Larger diameter, and heavier tires will put more strain on the engine and transmission, and also affect the odometer/speedometer. It will probably look strange too, if the diameter increases an inch or more IMO. To increase the profile enough to smooth the ride, I think you would have to go with a shorter wheel. That's my opinion, and I'm sure others will differ.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I use this tool http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html to calculate the difference in size from stock or current size tire to an aftermarket one. I'd say you can probably go about 3% larger diameter w/o issue and maybe 10mm wider. The higher the sidewall the better ride you will get, so going to a 55 or even a 60 series tire in the same or wider width will improve ride. Also going with an all-season touring tire with a lower speed rating will also give you a softer better riding tire.

    -mike
  • nrborodnrborod Member Posts: 79
    Thanks for your reply. Compared to the 2004 Accoord EXL 4 cyl I recently turned in, my v-6 Accord feels alot more substantial--especially in handling. It most certainly is a heavier steering feel,( car also weighs 185lbs more than my '04 4cyl )but this car tracks much better and flatter around the curves than my 4 cyl EVER did even when new. As far as alternate tires are concerned, things get expensive quick. I've read some good reviews about the Kumho Solus KH-16--a much cheaper tire, but it's so hard to know. Keep me posted if you learn anything definitive. Neil ( By the way, once your car broke in what kind of mileage were you able to achieve?)
  • trumpcartrumpcar Member Posts: 10
    Ok peoples i would like the pros and cons: F20 vs H22, which do you think. the car gettin the swap : 94 accord coupe, manual.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    H22 - the Prelude VTEC one. Its easy (relatively), proven, has aftermarket support, and isn't excessively costly. Oh and its bigger then the F20 so it might have a little more torque.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    I added a new fuel pump, radiator with 2 fan blades, power steering hose and my car seems sluggish. It seems as if I'm riding the brakes and it pulls to left side when braking. The engine light & ABS goes on. Can someone direct me to upgrading my car to a better performing car? I know I need a tune up but I'd like more horse power as well. Thanks - Jim
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