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Ford Escape Hybrid Owners: Problems & Solutions
Post any problems you may be experiencing and share solutions with othe members!
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You can buy the filter from your dealer or use an aftermarket one. I bought the Wix equivalent at the local parts store for about $15. The install is a little involved but quick to do. Cycle the wipers and shut off the ignition with them in the upright position, then you have to remove the 4 screws (they're covered with round plastic covers that pop off with a small screwdriver...don't let them fly off or you'll never find them..best to remove these with the hood down!) along the bottom of the windscreen on the passenger side, pop out the plastic "rivets" along the front edge of the same side's cowling cover then lift the section of cowling up and out of the way. Under that is another cover (keeps the filter in place and dry) which comes off revealing the filter box. Put the filter in there, put everything back together and you're good to go.
The dealer will charge a fortune to do this for you, if you are at all mechanically inclined I'd reccomend doing it yourself.
2001 escape. My 1996 Taurus came with it from the factory. Ford is saving $$$$
As to Ford's not including the filter, it's clearly a money-making opportunity for the dealer. They fetch about $20 for the part plus a half-hour labor, I'm sure.
Got the car back after three days. They changed the "jumper harness" and the battery. So far so good. I did get a "service emissions" message on the display but I read that this is normal if you turn the key to run but do not start the car.
Any experience or suggestions?
As the car breaks in it will have less engine friction and will operated more efficiently.
But 29 MPG combined is not bad for the first 3 weeks of ownership.....
You are still doing about 7 MPG City and 5 MPG highway better than my I4 ICE-only CR-V... not too shabby.
the oil filter anywhere!
Anyone know where this sucker is? There is some plastic cowling underneath
that could conceal the filter. I pulled it back a bit, but didn't see anything.
You’ll need a can of silicone spray lubricant and about 20 ft. of ¼ in. OD (outside diameter) clear vinyl tubing (smooth, pliable and compressible, like the stuff in science lab class). It is sold by the foot at home centers for .10 - .20 /ft. Use your fingers to gently pry off the black rubber door seal weatherstrip that is attached to the body of the car located on the door frames (where the perimeter of the door touches the body of the car). Start at the front of each door opening and work your way around. This will not damage the weatherstrip- it is not glued on, just hooked over a metal seam running the length of the door opening. Lay the weatherstrip straight out on the ground and thread the vinyl tubing through the hollow part of the weatherstrip. Spray the silicone on the tubing while feeding it through the weatherstrip to lubricate its path. If it gets stuck, spray silicone through the small holes in the weatherstrip in the path of the tubing. Leave an inch or so protruding from each end of the weatherstrip. Reinstall it by simply pressing it snugly into place. Make sure you tuck the leading edge of the weatherstrip well below the body panels on the front. Once it is reattached, press the tubing that is inside the weatherstrip to the outside edge of the weatherstrip so the door closes with an airtight fit. Use ¼ in. OD clear vinyl tubing because you won't be able to fully close the doors around anything more rigid or larger than that. The tailgate door and glass can be done the same way.
I feel very slighted by all of this, as this is the FEH that was on of the centerpieces at the Washington DC Area Auto Show in December 2004.
So I am happy again.
Pretty stupid tech then, the two electrical systems are independent...
Have you had any problems with your rear brakes making noise? I've had my in the shop now twice for problems they haven't been able to fix.
Erin
I am curious if I am the only one that thinks the gas engine kicks in too quickly upon acceleration.
Unless I press the accelerator VERY,VERY, VERY gently and creep away the gas engine turns on. I am not one of those persons that stomp on the gas and race to the next light. But it is ridiculous to creep away slower than I can walk for a substantial distance in order to stay in electric mode until 25 MPH, somtimes plus, is reached. I do my best to ignore the other drivers honking and sometime yelling while I try to stay in electric mode.
Perhaps this is a programing error. But it can't be right. My neighbor has a Toyota Prius and can accelerate at a reasonable, not fast, but reasonable rate and stay on electric.
The Toyota Prius is a much lighter car. You are driving a 700 extra pound SUV. It takes HP to get that much metal going.
That kind of driving will have more of a negative impact on the hybrids than you may think. I was stuck for several miles behind a hybrid Escape going up Interstate 8 a few months ago. Traffic was flowing 75-80 MPH and this person was going 45 in the right lane. I thought it was all the faster the car was capable of going until I found out it was some kook trying to save a few ounces of gas. I can appreciate your trying to get the best mileage from your car. Just not where it impedes the normal flow of traffic.
My advice, don't worry about it unless your vehicle is not shutting down the engine at all.
What are you planning, sell your CRV and buy one of these puppies.
I would consider that, except for a couple of issues:
1. New Ford Model year. I will wait a couple of years before I consider it. Having read some of the problems being encountered with the transmission, I think it is a wise choice.
2. My CR-V is not paid for.
3. Escape Hybrid is too expensive for what you get.
4. My CR-V will get 26-27 MPG at 80 MPH, which isn't too far off of the EH at 32 MPG.
5. I prefer the design of the CR-V (as I think you already know)
It's possible to use an adapter like PIE's X3 and be able to inject a line-level audio signal on the CD-changer input, but you have to keep a CD in the changer at all times as the head unit doesn't know what you're up to.
The PIE wire is a good idea though and does work on the Hybrid (i checked with them). I do not want to have the CD spining all the time while I listen to Sat radio, which would be most of the time.
I am hoping to run an ipod through the same FM modulator.
The sound quality is excellent and it does charge the iPod battery. Since the adapter has to fake the head unit into thinking your iPod is a 6-disc CD changer, the controls are a little convoluted...still no track data and the iPod display is not active when plugged in. However, it does work.
That is a great idea !!! My Escape has a lot of wind noise, but not from door and window gaskets. The Escape is shaped like a brick and thus so generates a lot of wind turbulence. I took the roof rack off but that didn't do anything but I suspect the mirrors make a lot of wind noise. I also don't think the Escape has a lot of insulation in it.
Almost all cars with smaller engines are set to turn off the compressor under hard acceleration. Have you tried accelerating easier?
Took it into the dealer and they agreed there was a problem and said they would replace it. When I took it in for the replacement navigation system, they said they called the company and they hooked it up to their equipment while it was running and they said there was nothing wrong with it.
Since I have had experience with other GPS navigation systems and they are always right on the money, I told my dealer this was not acceptable. They indicated that Ford said this was the best it could be- ie, it would never be that accurate. I feel there has been some kind of game playing here by Ford- they have downgraded the Satellite signal, or have some kind of a software problem. We did get the new CD's and changed them when they came.
The dealer then replaced the GPS unit and it worked for 3 days and now is doing the same thing- driving off the road when it gets behind.
Is anyone else having problems with this unit or have any articles on this I can use as amunition to get my money back or another replacement unit when they fix the problem?
Thanks, F102flyer
I'm guessing the GPS unit itself is the problem, the clock is supposed to sync to the GPS time, it should always reset itself.
I have a harder time getting the expected MPG around town, but the EPA city driving test is notoriously inaccurate.
The longer the trip, the better the mileage. By a LOT.
this may or may not be related, but at this point, I'd be comparing notes with your friends who have in-dash GPS/location, and see if they are getting some results wide of the mark as well.
if everybody's going wacko, it's the feds. if not, it's your system.
positives--drives tight, feels firm handles very well quality inside and out is strong
mileage terrific (not sure why some people complain). We get 30-32 in stop and go and 29 on hiway. I will say that if you drive 75 you will only get 24 on hiway, but 65 gives great mileage. No problems and works seemlessly between electric or gas engine. These figures are much better than most SUVs and better than a subaru! I would also say that hi ethanol gas degrades the meilage by about 1-3 mpg. I've tried both.
Negatives--was more costly but probably worth it.
so definite yes would buy again.