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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues
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Comments
Thanks for any help.
The throttle cable seems to move with hardly any effort, so I don't think it's bound or kinked anywhere. I've also adjusted the stop screw on the throttle plate and the dashpot, as well as tightened up most of the slack in the cable. In a way it really just seems like my return springs are worn out. Unfortuantely the dealership won't sell just the springs, and they're telling me a new throttle body is almost $500. Has anyone had a problem like this before, or could maybe point me in the right direction?
Sometimes it does it and some times it doesn't but its getting worse.
I replaced the fuel filter and it was fine for a couple of days but now its acting up again.
I just had the head gasket replaced,valve job,water pump, timing chain,fuel filter,tune up,and raidiator.
I can't figure it out.When it happens it seems like its runing out of gas and then it kicks in and then its fine and it doesn't do it all the time but its getting worse, but its still running.
Oh I did replace the fuel pump about 2 years ago more or less and the cluch. That's about all the major repairs of done to it. Thanks for asking.I hope you can help.
I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer to see if they can figure out what the problem is.
I own a 91 Toyota 4x4 pickup - 4cyc 22RE stick shift- problem I am having is my turn signals are not working - all the fuses and bulbs are good and the relays are as well. The only thing left is my turn signal flasher - which is part of the problem - I have no idea where it is located. I tore down the interior of my truck yesterday looking for it and to no avail. I found the hazard flasher only - anyone have a idea where it may be? I am out of ideas and running out of patience, I would like to avoid a dealer for something like this which I can usually figure out and fix. All my other lights are functioning normally
Thanks!
papahawk1!
I've had that same problem.
Next to the parking brake there are some wires that are under the dash board that is wrapped around with some type of wire protection.(looks like a black snake)
What I have done in the past is pull down on the wire and you should see your turn signal lights work.
I've had my signal lights go out my heater wasn't working no turn signals and I also had my running lights go out all because of this problem so try that and see if that works.
I think there is something there that is disconnecting (some type of plug or something)I haven't takin it apart yet but that worked for me hopefully it will work for you.
Let me know if it does good luck.
So I replaced the dist. cap and wires and plugs, and 2 of the plugs had a lot of build up like it wasn,t firing. It looked really bad. After doing that it still acts the same.
So should I replace the fuel filter, or the 02 sensors, or maybe clean the throttle body? SOMEBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
O YA and it only has 116K original miles, and I just put in a new timing chain, chain tensioners, and the harmonic balancer. any clues??????????
Tom
I've got a problem with the instrument panel lights on my 88 Toyota 4x4 pick up(22re). They quit working one night. All other running lights are working fine. I checked bulbs & fuses - all fine, replaced all lighting fuses anyway. I've checked the rheostat switch located on the dash - its O.K. I replaced the tail light relay and still no dash lights. The repair manual I have doesn't even show the wiring diagram for dash lights or the rheostat switch. If anyone has any ideas I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks JB
Two weeks later, while driving I notice that my temp guage is nearly in the red, but within seconds it jumps back down to normal operating temp (needle half way on the gauge). Since then, it has been happening regularly: After I start the truck and run it for 5 minutes (or long enough to get the gauge up to half way), the needle starts going towards the red while I'm driving. It'll just barely hit the red and stay there for maybe 20 seconds at the most before it jumps immediately back down to half way. It will do this 2 or 3 times over the next 10-15 minutes. After that, if I continue to drive, it will stop doing this. If I stop for an hour and then drive the cycle will start over....it only stops if you drive for long periods (20+ minutes) of time.
I have replaced the thermostat (right side up) and still have the problem. I'm getting plenty of heat. Engine fan seems to work fine. No leaks or strange smells. The cooland res is filled to the correct level. & like I said, the dealer has replaced the water pump.
So, is it possibly the temp guage sensor? I'm thinking of replacing that.
What should I try next?
Is it possible there is an air bubble trapped somewhere?
I'm running out of ideas.
Any comments greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
It very well could be the thermostat, though. If it only takes a few minutes to redline it in cold weather, then the thermostat could be stuck closed, and you're losing coolant through the overflow bottle. When it overheats, and you shut it off to cool down, do you hear a rattling\bubbling sound? Kind of like water boiling inside the overflow bottle? That might be it.
Need some help. Noticed today that the brake lights stayed on even after turning off lights and ignition. I figure it might be the tail light relay, but I can't find out where it is (checked Haynes). I had to pull the neg terminal on the battery to turn off. Any ideas and/or can anyone provide location of the relay? I've searched the internet with no luck. Thanks!
I drove it after replacing the radiator and the coolant/water, and it redlined again after about 10 minutes! This time, a small geyser of coolant steam was seen where the upper hose connects to the engine.
I removed and inspected the hose (nothing).
I let it sit for an hour and drove 10 minutes. It redlined!!! But, nowhere could I see coolant steam spewing out.
Any ideas what could be causing this overheating???
Is there a thermostat in the engine that may be broken in a 'closed' position, thereby keeping the coolant from circulating?
Thanks!!!