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All About Exhaust Systems
Mr_Shiftright
Member Posts: 64,481
in General
This forum is specifically for exhaust system questions about any car. This includes catalytic converters, mufflers, tailpipes, hangers, bad smells, 02 sensors, smoke and possible drivability issues related to bad catalytics.
The forum is NOT for modifications (See our new "Speed Shop" Board!!)or for engine problems....just from the exhaust manifold on back, folks!
The forum is NOT for modifications (See our new "Speed Shop" Board!!)or for engine problems....just from the exhaust manifold on back, folks!
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Comments
magilln
If it were my van, and it were otherwise mechanically sound, I would just spring for a whole new exhaust system (from manifold to tailpipe). Again, this is assuming the van is in otherwise good shape, and you think it can provide several more years of reliable service.
But the loss of power could also be co-incidental. You could have other engine driveability issues going on. So you can't really count on the fixed exhaust system curing the engine issues.
The symptoms (exhaust in the engine bay, loss of power, sounds like a chopper) are classic cracked header issues. I know because I just replaced the very badly cracked one on my Jeep's straight-six (these engines are notorious for this problem). I knew it had a tear near the collector but it had another worse one higher up:
Look around the header as best you can with a flashlight, especially where it attaches to the engine block. This is not a cheap repair, though, but it's the labor and not the technical part that makes it so expensive, it's all grunt work. I was quoted $800-$1000, equally split between parts and labor, from the stealership and two different shops. I went aftermarket instead and picked up one from 1A Auto Parts for $160 or so, including a lifetime warranty on the part, and had a local boy-racer type install it (he did have ASE certification) in his garage for another $160 cash. Got it back yesterday and all problems are solved, I've got at least 20 more HP back and it's so very quiet now.
To answer your question, no I think their explanation is total BS even though the catalytic could of course be defective for some other reason. If your fuel delivery system is screwy, allowing the engine to inject a very rich mixture of fuel into the engine, that will eventually screw up a catalytic, yes, since it can't 'scrub' that much raw fuel. But that's not "bad gas", that's just too much gas.
Last of all, if they haven't tested the catalytic, they don't know diddley yet.
I might add I have noticed no other problems with my car and it only has 14K+ miles on it
Anyway, after I got back, I noticed right away that the mileage was poor and that the car lacked a lot of oomph (for lack of a better word). I had to get the car inspected for registration purposes, anyway, and so I brought it in. I was told then that my muffler had a leak (they showed me the hole, so this is legit). Because they had to order the part, I took my car out of the shop for a few days to pick up my mother at Dulles. On the way, after stopping for lunch, the car repeatedly stalled on me for a while, and even when it kept going, I still had the problems noted earlier.
I brought in, and they said my catalytic converter is pretty much fried. I don't doubt this, as the symptoms I described earlier match what one would expect with a bad catalytic converter (at least based on the internet research that I've done in the last couple days).
Anyway, to replace both the muffler, pipe, and cat, I've got an estimate of about $590. For a car that only books at $2200-2300 anyway, that seems like a pretty hefty repair bill (at least on my budget). In any case, I'd be willing to pay it if I knew that all would be kosher with the car again and that it wouldn't be right back in the shop a couple months from now.
That said, everything I've read suggests that catalytic converters go bad because of other problems: timing, bad fuel mixtures, etc. I guess the good thing is that these problems sound easily remedied and hopefully wouldn't cost all that much. However, is it possible to figure out what the problem is before I authorize the replacement of the exhaust system? Is it possible that the cat died because of old age, much like the muffler seems to have rusted out? What do I need to think about before authorizing this repair?
Thanks in advance to any with answers!
1) Would this part be eligible for the 8 yr/80k emissions warranty? The converter box looks fine but you obviously can't replace the manifold pipe without pulling the converter
2) How do I approach the dealer on this?
I am wanting to replace the exhaust system from the headers on back.
I have spoken with a few people but I am unable to understand the whole package.
I dont have enough background information to make a decision on my own. I guess what I am trying to figure out is not what HP gains I get but performance by upgrading my exhaust system, yet I still want the car to be street legal and able to handle the stress of everyday driving.
I don't understand the x-pipe set up. (though i understand some of the physics)
what I don't understand is the Off-road description listed on most of the x-pipe descriptions.
Do you need a system with an x-pipe configuration? pros and cons
You're not going to get very much HP gains from an exhaust system and header...not sure what you were expecting but if you ended up with 15HP total you'd be lucky.
Best way is to look at the ENTIRE intake/exhaust as ONE LONG PIPE....makes no sense to work on one end but neglect the other, and once you've done front end of the pipe (air intake system) and back end of the pipe (what exits the engine), you are still limited by the engine itself (the middle of the pipe).
So you do air intake, intake header, throttle body, exhaust header, mufflers. If you want more HP after that, you'll have to consider different camshafts, and/or larger injectors and turbocharging for serious HP gains IMO.
thanks!
2nd question, same car. The car has ABS but drum brakes on the rear. (Has the ABS logo on the window?) From what I read all Taurus's with ABS had discs on all 4 corners.
3rd and final question. Is 24 valve Duratec 185 or 200 horse? Depending where you read you see it both ways.
Thanx for any info,
Spinner
The best sound of all was an old six cylinder Chevy with a split manifold. Straight pipe on one side and an 18" glass pack on the other!
What needs to be done to the system?
Thanks :sick:
Can I use 2 universal muffler instead of the OEM parts and build my system, will this work as good as the original?
do you hav any suggestions to turbo my non-turbo engine, will this be too muc work (changing cam, intake, manifolds..??)
not sure of the year, but the hp of the duratec dropped from 200 to 185 when they went to the single exhaust.
my '04 focus has abs and rear drum brakes. haven't really had to use it though.