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Subaru Crew MPG-Real World Numbers
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Comments
It's not a hybrid but I'm thrilled with the mileage.
Bruce
I drive mostly country/rural driving and interstate highway (I live in the Northern Catskills/Mid-Hudson Valley region of New York). I rarely exceed 65 MPH on the interstate in an effort to increase fuel economy. On long downhill sections of roadways, I often shift into neutral to lessen the engine speed and gas consumption.
My old lady habits pay off with good fuel economy. My vehicle is EPA rated 19 MPG city/25 MPG highway. I tend to average 25-26.5 MPG with 90% rural/country/highway driving. The remaining 10% of mileage per tank is often stop-and-go traffic in suburban New Jersey and driving in evening rush hour traffic in Manhattan/NYC. If my driving excludes NJ/NYC rush hours and is completely rural driving, I can get 26-27 MPG. On long highway stretches of non-stop driving using cruise control, I can usually get 28-29 MPG, once even 30 MPG, as long as I don't exceed 65 MPH. All of these figures are mathematically calculated. I find the car's computer is usually overly optimistic by 0.8-1.5 MPG.
My car, in non-winter months, is equipped with Pirelli PZero Nero M+S tires which I usually have pumped up 2-3 PSI above what Subaru recommends, which for my car is 35 PSI front and 33 PSI rear. These tires have a fairly high rolling resistance, especially in comparison to the OEM Potenza RE92 tires (but they handle so much better!). I normally travel alone in the car without any passengers with the exception of my dogs. My winter fuel economy tends to be lower, attributable to the use of winter tires, winter fuel composition, and colder operating temperatures.
I fuel my car with 93 octane fuel mostly, but when 91 octane is available (most Sunoco stations) I will often purchase that if it saves me a couple of cents per gallon (my turbo engine requires 91+ octane).
27 MPG for overall average (since around 10 to 15 thousand miles).
Mostly rural/highway/freeway driving, very little stop and go. Only driver (me, of course) and some gear in car. Original tires (Potenza) usually kept as close to correct inflation as possible, 32/29 PSI F/R. Been using Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil since about 1000 miles on odometer, which is currently over 26 thousand miles. Run only 87 Octance regular gas, cheapest I can get-- annoying pinging included.
Almost forgot to add... I'm a heavy user of Cruise Control.
Eric
After realizing that the car must have spent a long time on the lot (actually came from Nashville, TN, about 100 miles from local dealership) I drained the gas tank to get any trapped bad gas out of there (are two sides to these, as you may or may not know, so that meant opening two different plugs). Then I changed the fuel filter. Well, I finally noticed the car will ping most when the gas tank gets below 1/2 full and especially if only at 1/4. Gas treatments were tried but I hadn't found any remedy by doing that. I think maybe higher octane helps but I only gave that a try twice.
I almost always get gas at either Raceway or Pilot near home. Haven't checked into what percentage of other stuff might be mixed in. I think the majority of pinging-- aside from that caused (supposedly) by the tank levels-- happens only during acceleration and steady uphill climbs.
Oh yeah... another thing too... there's also occassional high-pitched plunk noises during sudden decelerations (just once each time). Doesn't happen everytime but enough to be a bother to me. Sounds like a metal sheet being hit lightly under the car. I've found out that's possibly something about extra gas igniting in the exhaust pipe near the catalytic convertor, maybe, which is something I need to talk with the service people about when I take the car in for its 30K mile checkup.
Another thing I had a lot with this car is the awful sulfur smells, another thing said to be about catalytic convertors having trouble with burning fuel cleanly enough or whatever. I don't know much about it, just what I've read or heard said. Luckily those are few and far between anymore, yet seemed to happen a lot during the first year or so.
Thanks for asking Eric, hopefully not too much info given. :confuse: I really need to get a look at the Ethanol, MTBE stuff when I'm at the gas stations!
With a round trip of 328 miles I figure 35.6 mpg?!! This is on shell v-power premium gas. Usually on regular I get 24-25mpg. I switched to premium because of somewhat regular pinging. Now it doesn't ping anymore and gets incredible mileage. I'll keep checking it to see if this mileage keeps up or not. I couldn't be happier!
Eric
-juice
But the needle pegged at the same place it always does...
I'll wait and see what it does on this tank.
Eric
1. 8.0 L/100 km ==> 235/8 = 29.4 mpgUS
2. 8.0 L/100 km ==> 282/8 = 35.3 mpgUK
3. 29.4 mpgUS ==> 235/29.4 = 8.0 L/100km
4. 18.8 mpgUK ==> 282/18.8 = 15.0 L/100km
It apparently dropped from 27 MPG to 24 or 25 at first. Now after 3 tankfuls it's back again to 27.
I almost never buy gas from places like Chevron, Exxon, Shell, etc. so it's usually Murphy USA, RaceTrac (or Raceway), Pilot, Wavaho.
I remember when I tried Shell premium once (only once) and I think the MPG increased to 28. But that was a couple years ago so I can't say that with absolute certainty. I'm considering paying a little more for awhile and see if it helps stop the engine knock I've been plagued with.
For now I'm still getting the gas at the cheaper places and I might move on to the expensive stuff at least temporarily to find out what changes happen. I'd have done this sooner if not for the bad timing of price increases.
Interestingly, the car is rated at 21 city, 27 hwy. I probably only drive in city traffic 10% of the time so the gas mileage must be what's to be expected.
2018 430i Gran Coupe
If you baby it, it'll probably be about the same mileage.
Odds are the H6 will cost less to fuel up, especially if you use regular or plus.
-juice
I've owned the car since it was new. Now has 73,400 on the odometer.
Local driving - lots of shifting, stop signs, traffic lights, etc. I will get about 20mpg.
Mixed driving - Some highway mixed in with the above I get in the 22-24mpg range.
Pure Highway - I sometimes take the car from NY to VA for business trips. I'll set cruise at 65mph (when possible). Last trip I was able to pull in 30mpg on the ride down. Basically I filled up the tank the night before in NY. Drove down to Reston, VA and gassed up. The ride home was a bit less. I calculated 28.5 mpg. There was some more traffic on I-95.
I have been running Mobil-1 synthetic so maybe that helped a bit. As for tires I'm running stock 16" rims with Falken ZE-512s.
Also my car has the turbo boost gauge on the steering column. I tend to use it to tell me how hard I am on the gas. I try and keep it out of the boost range as much as possible. Of course it is a WRX so I get on it once in a while. Very large grin on my face when I do that
My highway (interstate cruise 75-85 mph) - lucky to get 27, more reaslistic is 25-26 mpg.
City stop and go: 19-20 mpg.
Motor oil: synthetic. Tires: stock 16" with BF Goodrich Traction TA.
2018 430i Gran Coupe
I have a question though, in the manual it says I should have a 60L tank, but at fillup its about half that, could it have been a typo?
However, half of the rated capacity when the fuel light comes on, is definitely a bit extreme and should be checked out.
It's not relevant. f you know how much gas you used and you know how many miles you drove you can get your figures.
If you fill it til it clicks off and then refill it again you will know how many gallons or liters you've used. This works every time. It's important to consistently shut off the fuel at the first click or in my case the second click with my present vehicle. The idiot light is sporadic at best. See how much fuel it is each time you fill up because the rest is in the tank.
I admit I'll use the low fuel idiot light but it can vary by quite a bit.
For the record my 1.3L Honda Jazz was tested by the Honda Factory guys with me driving the car to figure out why the economy was so low. They had me do some crazy stuff to improve it. I had an actual factory computer hooked up real time while driving with 2 techs. Bottom line is some Jazz/Fit's get great economy and others don't. But Honda won't admit that. It's a great car but some specific cars get lower economy than others.
-Frank
- rated 23 - 30mpg EPA.
Actual 100% Highway 26 - 29 mpg.
Actual 90% City Short-Haul point to point - 16 - 18mpg.
30k miles
So far only did a highway trip 75-80mph, 28.x mpg
I'll post back when I do some city driving.
-mike
-mike
Most recent MPG results.
25.925
25.684
22.684
23.170
24.430
22.689
22.814
23.060
Now those "hiccups" were due to me leaning into the engine bay a bit too hard while doing the sensor replacement .
#1 - I unseated the cruise control cable/linkage a bit which caused a P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected CEL. I started hunting down IAC issues until I noticed the problem and simply resnapped the cable back.
#2 - Cracked a vacuum line that operates the EGR, which led to it throwing the P0400 EGR Flow Malfunction. Fixed that with a new section of appropriated tubing.
Now I can take it in for inspection with my fingers crossed.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd - 139,500 miles
Flashlight
Socket wrench
8" socket extension
12mm socket
Magnetic pickup tool
Finding the sensor was the first issue.
[copied from a Nabisco post]
The knock sensor is located on top of the block, above the #4 cylinder. It should be on the drivers side, left of the throttle body near the cable linkage if you are standing in front of the engine. There may be a EGR solenoid in the way, so you need to peer pass that to see it. It should be a black round thing with a 12mm bolt through the middle, connected by one wire, but with a white 2-pin connector.
Getting to it with hands and tools is the 2nd issue
From the drivers side -
With the socket on the extension, I seated it on the bolt, attached the wrench and backed it out. I had the magnetic pickup handy to get the bolt fully out. Put this aside as you will likely need it during the replacement, my part from the dealer did not come with a new bolt.
From the passenger side -
Pull the sensor out into the more open area on the left side of the throttle body. I pulled it through using where it connects to the harness.
There is not enough room on the right side to get both hands in to release the connector from the harness.
Unclip it from the harness and attach the new one onto the harness and thread the sensor back under the throttle body.
Back on the drivers side -
Again use the magnet tool to pull it into the generally area where it has to be remounted.
Put the bolt back through the center of the sensor and carefully guide it back down towards the engine block.
With just the extension and socket, attach to the bolt and "feel it" back into the bolt hole.
Turn it counter clockwise a bit just to be sure of alignment and that you will catch the threads correctly.
Attach the wrench and tighten it down, but not too tight. There are warnings that you can damage the sensor if you really overtighten it.
"Plug n Play" right?!?!
Clear your code(s) and start her up.
Good Luck!
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
I used a Subaru Bucks coupon so it was only $15 out of pocket.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
I'm not sure about the Canada availability. Take a look at the Chase credit card site for details.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
TOTAL: 103.0 gallons for 2839 miles equals 27.56 mpg. Wouldn't be surprised to see it creep to 28+ by 20k miles.
MPG indicator is about 10-15 % low; it read 25.2 mpg for trip. At first I was pretty disappointed in "mileage" until I realized the trip MPG calculator was off.
Looks like the new EPA test routine (18 city, 24 highway, Hah!) is pretty hostile to the turbo. I routinely get 22-23 city, and the highway mileage speaks for itself.
Last year, June 2007, I'd been averaging about 25.5 mpg. But now I'm averaging a touch better than 28 mpg over the last three fill-ups. Although I'm not a hyper-miling purist, I've kinda of:
1. Inflated tires a couple pounds more than the door placard shows.
2. Slowed down to not exceed speed limits very much and mostly stay in the right lane.
3. Look far ahead to anticipate conditions to better to take advantage of coasting and light touch braking to minimize full dead stops and starts.
4. Go light on the accelerator.
On the downside my 26 mile compute time is extended about 5 minutes and the brakes have developed a light squeal.
Have Fun,
Ted