Honda CR-V Real World MPG

lolsen · March 2006

I purchased my 2006 Honda CRV EX about a week ago. We took a long trip, mostly highways, and averaged about 20mpg. I had expected better. Should the mileage improve as the car gets broken in?

marg2265 · March 2006

Hi, I have read throughout the different forums on the CRV that your mpg will improve as you gain a little mileage on the car. I'm no expert though!

blueiedgod · March 2006

I purchased my 2006 Honda CRV EX about a week ago. We took a long trip, mostly highways, and averaged about 20mpg. I had expected better. Should the mileage improve as the car gets broken in?

Did you follow the break in procedure as per OWNER'a MANUAL?

dan bitman · March 2006

this is waaythen it's advertised.See posting #101
Are you sure about the computations?
dan

joeyd2 · March 2006

I've been tracking mpg using a spread sheet. My 2000 EX was 25.7 for 90,000 miles. It would vary some with each fill up. I would normally fill at about 320 miles. Some time I would forget and have gone 360 miles. I just bought a 2006 SE and hope for similar results.

win1 · March 2006

I sure this is a crv 4+4 problem!My friend has a honda accord and 38mpg(uk) is no problem where as i can only get 26mpg (uk+2ltr) the dealer in Telford (uk) told me to take it on a good run but i then informed him i'd been to the Alp's in France and again in Italy (1450 mile round trip)he was short on follow up's. But to be honest it's one of the few car's you can do 750 miles in a day and still be talking to wife and kid's !

joeyd2 · March 2006

I filled the new se at 282 miles. with 11.6 gallons. that is about 24.2 mpg. I hope it gets better. My 2000 has a stick and the se is auto. I noticed with the auto it is very easy to rev 4, 5, even 6K. I suspect this is why there is such a big difference in reported mpg.

saabgirl · March 2006

This time I ran until the needle actually began to drop south of the little red line above E, and the passenger seat began to emit a loud noise --"Get gas NOW! Get gas NOW!"

So after 325 miles my 15.3 gallon tank took 12.8 with the pump nozzle on the auto setting. That's 25.4 mpg. So I had 60+ miles to go, not considering the racket in the passenger seat.

kyfdx · March 2006

Wow.. you did really well.. I'm usually pretty happy if I can just get to 300 miles..

My passenger seat woke up one night at 2:00 AM, with the amber light on, and the needle below "E"... Next exit with an open gas station was 20 miles away, so I got to listen to it for quite awhile...

I did set a personal record that night.. 5 hrs,40 minutes.. 420 miles... with zero stops.. '99 Honda Accord 4-cylinder..

I've had higher average speeds, but never made it that far, or that amount of time, without stops for gas, food, etc..

regards,
kyfdx

martyh · April 2006

I got my CRV in May of last year (05). I am averaging about 22 around town with or w/out A/C. Highway MPG is about 24 or 25. Best mileage was on a winter road trip from SC to Maine. Once we got out of the mountains in NC/SC/Va MPG averaged 26 or 27 - all hwy. Best tank was 29 MPG somewhere between Boston and Portland Me. We were fully loaded family and cargo, but since it was winter, not running the A/C. Overall, in one YR somewhat disappointed with the gas mileage since it is a 4 cyl and I drive it easy. But still better than other SUVs. My father has a Pilot and his average is 18 around town and 22 on the road. Only "problems" so far are some rattles, would definitely buy again. Likely to trade up for an '07 CRV or the next Gen Pilot.

un_limited · April 2006

I am pretty disappointed too. I had low mileage for first 8000 miles till my first servicing. Average was @ 20-21 miles. I mostly drive 40 miles a day with 34 miles on freeway and it would drive approximately 280 miles in 12.6 before the low fuel indicator would turn up. After first servicing (oil change and wheel rotation) the mileage improved a little bit by 20 miles for tank. Now it ran 302 miles in @ 12.7 gallons. However I now notice that the SUV is a lot noisier and there is a rattling or waggling noise in front wheels. Its at the dealership right now and I am waiting for results to be better. It dose not drive smooth and silent like any other Accord or Pilot. Even a Pontiac G6 (V6) impresses me more in terms of mileage (29  34 highways) and drive now.

tcasboy · April 2006

I just checked my fuel log for my latest mpg numbers and I have gotten a low of 22.5 and a high of 25 for MPG so far, with a few tanks at 24-25 on the highway. Normal running around mileage is the 22-23 range. I checked my tires and although the rec on the doorjam says 29, I ran them at about 32. I actually upped them to 36 in the front and 34 in the back today to see if maybe that will help. My CRV has about 3600 miles on it, still breaking it in. Hopefully the mileage will come up a bit over time.

TB

johna3131 · April 2006

I just bout my CRV a month ago. I have been tracking my MPG very close, driving consistantly 50% city and 50% highway. I have the EX 4wd 5 speed manual. My first two tanks were a little low, averaging 23 MPG. My guess is that it was because of engine break in, and possibly the first tank of 87 octain the dealership put in after the purchase, because my last two tanks have averaged 26 and 27 MPG respectivly. I have over 1,000 miles on it now and I use 89 octain, the 89 seems to give the engine a little more punch. To me it's well worth the extra 2 bucks at the pump. I'm extremely pleased with the performance and MPG of this SUV with the 160 HP 4 cylinder engine. Good job Honda!

blueiedgod · April 2006

I just bout my CRV a month ago. I have been tracking my MPG very close, driving consistantly 50% city and 50% highway. I have the EX 4wd 5 speed manual. My first two tanks were a little low, averaging 23 MPG. My guess is that it was because of engine break in, and possibly the first tank of 87 octain the dealership put in after the purchase, because my last two tanks have averaged 26 and 27 MPG respectivly. I have over 1,000 miles on it now and I use 89 octain, the 89 seems to give the engine a little more punch. To me it's well worth the extra 2 bucks at the pump. I'm extremely pleased with the performance and MPG of this SUV with the 160 HP 4 cylinder engine. Good job Honda!

If you are really seeing a difference in power going from 87 octane to 89 octane, take it back to the dealer and have them service it. The engine in the CR-V has no capability to extract more power from higher octane. The reason there are different grades of gasoline is because there are engines with different compression ratios. A similar engine in the Acura TSX which has 11:1 compression ratio will produce more power using 93 octane, and will revert to lower power production when lower octane fuel is used. CR-V has a low compression engine, 9.5:1 or something. It is just INCAPABLE of extracting more power out of higher octane fuel.

Octane rating is the "detonation" rating. Higher octane means that gasoline will not self ignite (detonate) prematurely. High octane gasoline in by itself has no more power than lower octane gasoline.

Save your money and use 87 octane gas.

leptar · April 2006

I don't drive with the intention of conserving gas, but last fill up i decided to take a peek at my MPG. I reset the trip odometer and at 270 the light came on and when i got to the gas station it was at 276 so i filled the tank until it stopped and it took 11.521 gallons so i got 23.95 mpg. To me that is pretty good. I average about 70ish on the highway and i don't pull a sunday driver when i'm coming off the ramps as i hate it when others do that and travel about a mile to get up to the speed limit.
For this tank i am going to stay under 70 and take it a little easier off the ramps when i can just to see what i could actually get for MPG if i really tried.

Should also mention that i only have about 1500 miles on this thing.

kipk · April 2006

Our 03 CR-V is a hoot to drive around town, However, when we take a trip we usually go in the 03 Pilot. It is heavier, seats feel more comfy, and with the two of us we can average 26-28 mpg if we run the posted speed limits.

We recently took a trip in her 03 CR-V automatic,4wd. Overall the trip was as comfortable as it would have been in the Pilot, although a bit nosier partly due to the Bridgestone duellers. Filled up at the same pump both times and the trip yielded 30.7 MPG. This was in North Georgia and the road was either uphill or down hill with very little flat ground. Cruise was set at 2500 RPM which was about 67 mph.

She gets 19-21 around town and I get 23-25 on the same roads in the CR-V. I start off with a light foot so that the shifts at near 2,500 rpm. She starts off so that the rear dips down a little and the shifts at about 3500 rpm. I let off the gas when I see the stop ahead, she likes to run right up to it before letting off and has to use the brakes a lot harder.

When I see a stop sign ahead with cars waiting to proceed I begin to slow down so that hopefully I will have to stop only once. She runs right up behind the last car and has to start and stop several times. Different driving habits can make a significant difference in fuel mileage.

When a Pilot is delivered to the dealer there are several things the "GET READY" department is supposed to do. One is very important for fuel mileage. This one also needs to be done whenever the battery has been disconnected for any reason. I don't know if it applies to the CR-V, but it can't hurt anything to do it.

Below is how it is done as I remember it.

Be sure radio, DVD, lights, AC and every thing else is turned off.

With the car cold like it has been sitting for several hours, disconnect the battery. Wait a couple of minutes and re-connect it. Leave the hood up!

Start the car, let it idle. Do not touch the gas peddle for any reason. Get out and watch the radiator fan. It will eventually come on. Then it will shut off. A while later it will come on again. Let it idle for about 10 additional minutes after the fan turns off that 2nd time. It may or may not come on during that last 10 minutes.

Turn the ignition off. Now re start the car reset the radio and any other things that may have lost memory.

It is called the "Idle Learn Proceedure" and can be found here: http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x02-029e.pdf

I don't understand why this procedure does anything other than help Idle, but it does.I got this from a Pilot forum and it helped cars that were getting terrible mileage. One soccer mom that was complaining about her mileage, got her husband to do the procedure and her mileage increased 5-6 MPG across the board and she started getting the same as the rest of us. Others had similar results.

Kip

kathyc1 · May 2006

I just bought an '03 LX 4x4 with 31,000 miles on it. I love it, but have been told by others in town with the same vehicle almost same year that they get 26 MPG overall. So far I've gotten about 21 city and 24.5 highway. I'm a very conservative driver. Am I reading that it's better to fill up with an almost empty tank? Should I be getting better mileage or does the 4x4 cause a problem?

kipk · May 2006

26 mpg overall sounds a bit high unless it is a very rural area and most driving is back roads and highway with little traffic or traffic lights.

22-23 would be more common for the average driver.

Try the above procedure and see what happens. At worse nothing will change. At best your mileage will increase.

Is your car an automatic?

Kip

kathyc1 · May 2006

Kip, yes it's an automatic. Also, this is a rural area. Not many traffic lights and some very hilly roads with 25 MPH speed limits. Not necessary to get onto a highway unless you go to the nearest large town. Highest speed limit in town is 35.

kathyc1 · May 2006

I'm sorry, I had to say I laughed about this! Thank you.

saabgirl · May 2006

You're welcome. Then there was the time back in the 80s when Saabgirl owned a cute little Toyota hardtop. We were coming home on the Maine Turnpike when she decided to take a little snooze. Feeling bored, I decided to see how fast her new car would go. On a level stretch I couldn't quite get it to 100, but on a long downhill I discovered I could get it past 100 although with some vibration. It was at this point she woke up. Oddly, she did not take it as good news that her new car could get to 100. What she said was pre-linguistic, similar to the observations of Faye Ray at meeting King Kong. She still hasn't learned how sudden screeching from the passenger seat can startle even the most cautious driver. But we were younger and more foolish then.

kipk · May 2006

You should be getting a lot better than you are!

Some peoples driving habits get better mileage than others. It is kind of a game with me to see where I can improve mileage.

Start off with just enough pressure on the pedal that the shifts will be at 2500-2800 rpm. Try to time the speed and distance to the stop signs and red lights to use very little brakes.

If there are cars waiting at the stop sign try to coast so that you get there after the last car is gone, so that you only stop and start once instead of several times.

When starting and stopping, pretend there is a very full open top cup of coffee sitting ON the tray between the seats and you don't want to spill it. "Jack Rabbit" starts and hard braking are murder on fuel mileage. Many folks don't realize the "Hard Braking" is a result of not letting off the gas soon enough, thus burning gas back there requiring hard breaking up here.

Obviously, sometimes things can't be avoided , like someone pulling out on front of you or that light changing. If we pay attention we can learn to anticipate someone pulling out and we can learn the pattern of how different traffic lights behave in relationship to each other on the route we take. Sometimes a little extra gas will get us to and through that next light so that we don't have to stop. Other times it is going to stop us no matter what we do, so why hurry to the next stop? It takes a lot more fuel to get that 3500# moving than it does to keep it moving. So learn your route!

Keep a distance of about a car length for every 10 MPH of speed. This allows us to keep a steady foot on the throttle instead of constantly on and off the gas and brake. We won't get there any quicker by riding someone's bumper.

On the highway, a trip of 300 miles will take 4 hours at 75MPH. It will take a half hour longer at 67 MPH. At 75 you can burn 2-3 more gallons of gas. 3-5 less MPG. $6-$9 more dollars at todays prices. That 4 cylinder engine has to work harder and harder as the speed of the CR-V or any SUV meets more and more wind resistance at higher speeds. If the 1/2 hour is that important, be prepared to pay for it, OR leave 1/2 hour earlier. At the slightly lower speed there will be a little less noise inside the car a few less maneuvering hassles and better mileage. You will arrive a little fresher.

It takes a lot more gas going up a hill than saved on the one you just went down. It saves some fuel if allowing a little extra speed toward the bottom of the hill so that you get a little more Coast up the next one. Cruise Control is wonderful on relatively flat ground, but in hilly country I tend to cancel it and just use a somewhat steady foot so that I increase the speed 5-6 MPH toward the bottom of the down hill and it will usually decrease the same amount going up the next.

Obviously we have to be considerate of drivers behind us. On two lane roads we have to be more cautious about varying our speeds than on 4 lane roads.

Tire pressure at about 2# more than recommended will help some. Be careful, because too much will cause the tires to wear more in the center treads and can also result is some loss of control because there is not as much tire patch on the pavement.

Doing the little things to increase fuel mileage can save us $$ in gas as well as savings on break jobs and tire replacement.

Does the A/C really need to be on? In todays cars the A/C compressors are pretty efficient. In most cases the A/C will use less fuel that having the windows open at highway speeds.(Less wind drag). However if the outside air is cool enough just turn on the fan to high and let nature cool you through the dash vents.

I believe you said you bought your car used. It is possible that the battery has been replaced, disconnected, or died, or that the dealer didn't do their job when new. The "Idle Procedure" above can and has resulted in big savings in fuel for Pilot owners. It may or may not do the same for the CR-V. It certainly is worth a try. If it is part of the new car get ready at the dealer it will need to be done again whenever the battery is disconnected, replaced, or has gone dead for any reason.

Kip

kathyc1 · May 2006

Kip, thank you, these are all good ideas. As you can probably figure, this is a 3 yr old car with 31,000 miles on it so it is a Honda Certified car. I also bought my '02 Civic from the same dealer and salesman and trust they did all the Certified checks they claim. I don't know whether the battery is the original, but I doubt it's been replaced at this point. They didn't say. Right now the A/C doesn't need to be on, but soon it will be unbearable if it isn't. And yes, we do a lot of coasting here. When on the highway I rarely do more than 70 MPH, but I do have to keep the trucks off my tail, especially on the two laners. I appreciate any ideas I can get. Thank you.

blueiedgod · May 2006

Right now the A/C doesn't need to be on, but soon it will be unbearable if it isn't. And yes, we do a lot of coasting here.

As per OWNER's MANUAL: (verbatim) "You should run your A/c once a week for 15 minutes to allow the oil lubricate the internals, EVEN IN WINTER MONTHS."

I wonder if all those with "sudden" A/c deaths followed the OWNER's MANUAL recommendation.

stevedebi · May 2006

I suspect most people use the defrosters in Winter, which engages the a/c compressor.

blueiedgod · May 2006

I suspect most people use the defrosters in Winter, which engages the a/c compressor.

That is defogger, and yes, it does activate the A/c, unlees you have reprogrammed it otherwise (like I did).

stevedebi · May 2006

"That is defogger, and yes, it does activate the A/c, unlees you have reprogrammed it otherwise (like I did)."

I thought the reprogramming only turned off the light... or at least that is how it appeared when I read the procedure some time ago. I would not do this anyway; the dry air is what makes the window clear rapidly.

If you live in a very cold climate (below 32 F), the air would be dry enough without the A/C.

tidester · May 2006

If you live in a very cold climate (below 32 F), the air would be dry enough without the A/C.

Not necessarily. What counts is the relative humidity and that can get up to 100% even in cold places - i.e. snow falls in cold places!

tidester, host

azs1 · May 2006

I can't seem to find a reference to this in the manual for my 2006, so perhaps it's not applicable to all years? (Or am I just looking in the wrong place....)

kathyc1 · May 2006

That's something to think about. The first car I got with A/C was my 1982 Accord. I've rarely used the A/C in the winter on any car and I've never had the A/C go out on me.

kipk · May 2006

Good point!

I've only had one AC compressor to be replaced. It was 4-6 years ago. That was on a 78 Chevy G20 van. Seems that 20+ years and 280,000+ miles had finally taken their toll.

As stated by others the AC compressor will usually run when "defrost" is selected. However on many newer cars the Compressor can be turned off while air still blows on the windshield. We use the defrost, here in Georgia, more in the winter than the summer.

I think that the mfg. tend to overstate most things in an effort to get us to comply to some degree approaching reality. They tell us to do something ever so often in the hopes that we will do it some. They ask for once a week, hoping we will do it once a month.

The dealers add insult to injury. They tell us that our 2 Hondas should have the oil changed every 3,750 miles or 3 months. "Whichever comes first" The book calls for every 7,500 miles except for "EXTREMELY" dusty conditions or heavy duty driving with lots of towing or heavy city driving. We do neither of the above. Yet the dealer insist it should be done. "BULL"

A few years back I read an article from "Mechanics Illustrated" or some such publication. They were monitoring the frequency of oil changes as well as brands of oil in major city taxi cabs.

They saw no more wear in engines changing oil and quality filters every 7000, 5000 or 3000 miles, with the same brand of Quality motor oil.

Kip

blueiedgod · May 2006

The dealers add insult to injury. They tell us that our 2 Hondas should have the oil changed every 3,750 miles or 3 months. "Whichever comes first" The book calls for every 7,500 miles except for "EXTREMELY" dusty conditions or heavy duty driving with lots of towing or heavy city driving. We do neither of the above. Yet the dealer insist it should be done. "BULL"

The manual describes SEVERE conditions not only as dusty or what not, but also the weather. If your temps get above 90°F or bellow 32°C you fall under SEVERE. If you do some stop and go, or drive shorter than 5-10 miles per trip, you fall under SEVERE. It is all in the OWNER's MANUAL.

Last time I was in Gerogia, it was HOT!!! They don't call Atlanta Hotlanta for nothing.

dromedarius · May 2006

We're starting to see the MPG creep up on our 2005 CR-V after 10,000 miles. We generally get between 21-23 mpg, with a low of 17 mpg in the midst of winter. However, lately we got 25 mpg (frantic driving, of which 90% was speeding on the highway) three tanks ago, followed by 21 mpg (75% highway) and 24 mpg (75% highway). I think this is due in no small part to the switch to the summer blend by the oil companies. Also, I seem to get about 2 to 3 mpg better than my wife, and I've been doing the majority of the driving lately.

The offsetting factor we have is most of our gas is 10% ethanol, which has a negative effect on mileage. How much I'm not sure, though. I'm looking forward to that first 26+ mpg tank! I feel it coming!!!

sky23213 · May 2006

Apparently summer blends are helping - 26.92 MPG last time, looking forward to passing the 27MPG mark

blueiedgod · May 2006

I just drove an 800 mile round trip, and here are my observations:

Driving at speed limit (65 mph) on 15% ethanol gas (as per sticker on the pump) I got approx 29 mpg.
Driving at 70 mph in 65 on 15% ethanol gas I got 27 mpg
Driving at 80 mph in 65 on 15% ethanol gas I got 24 mpg

Last year when I made a similar trip using gasoline with MTBE I got over 30 mpg driving at speed limit.

This is a 2005 CR-V EX 5 man.

kipk · May 2006

The manual describes SEVERE conditions not only as dusty or what not, but also the weather. If your temps get above 90°F or bellow 32°C you fall under SEVERE. If you do some stop and go, or drive shorter than 5-10 miles per trip, you fall under SEVERE. It is all in the OWNER's MANUAL.

Last time I was in Georgia, it was HOT!!! They don't call Atlanta Hotlanta for nothing.
----------------------------------------
Gotta love it! Seems that it would be more honest of them to simply say to change the oil every 3750.

I haven't checked the owners manual, but I believe you are telling it like it is. Therefore basically they are saying that 90+++% of drivers are in the severe zone. :sick:

I would call the above conditions as NORMAL Driving. I don't know why they didn't add "If you ever drive over 60 or under 25 "YOU MIGHT BE A SEVERE DRIVER". If you ever encounter HILLS "YOU MIGHT BE A SEVERE DRIVER". :mad:

It does get hot in the Atlanta area. Worse part is the humidity. HOWEVER, the hottest I have ever been was in Cape May, New Jersey. And they have Mosquitoes the size of humming birds.

Kip

blueiedgod · May 2006

This is what happens when you let people with marketing degrees and no technical background run the company. It allowed Honda to claim the lowest maintenance cost. Other manufacturers do the same.

And you are right, there maybe a handfull of people who fall under the "Normal" conditions.

tamaraster · May 2006

However, my owner's manual says 5000 miles is the maintenance interval for severe conditions - not 3750 or whatever. I do it twice a year instead, which for me is about every 4000 miles.

blueiedgod · May 2006

However, my owner's manual says 5000 miles is the maintenance interval for severe conditions - not 3750 or whatever. I do it twice a year instead, which for me is about every 4000 miles.

Gen. 1 had shorter oil change intervals. Gen. 2 have 5000 miles for severe, and 10,000 for normal.

leptar · May 2006

Ok update.... It cannot be done safely, driving to conserve especially when on the highway. It is dangerous when trying to merge into oncoming traffic. I now have just over 3000 miles and I am back to the "normal" way of driving, 3-4k RPM while accelerating and cruising any where from 2300 to just over 2500 RPM.... Last night I had to fill up as the light was on, I drove another 25 miles or so and it took 12.001 gallons. I always reset the trip odometer at every fill up, and I had 307 miles from that 10% Ethanol so I averaged 25.5 MPG. I should also mention that i have not changed my oil yet.

kipk · May 2006

There are going to be times when we all have to get into the throttle a bit hard.

Same with the brakes!

However we don't have to challenge every stop sign or traffic light by accelerating right up to them before braking. We don't have to tailgate so that we are back and forth between the brake and throttle. We can judge our speed and try to match it to traffic speed before merging into traffic. Sometimes things just don't work out! Most of the time they will!

At 2500 RPM our 4 speed automatic, '03, with 4wd is running about 67 mph. How fast do the later model 4wd with the 5 speed automatics run at 2500 RPM?

Thanks,
Kip

dromedarius · May 2006

I'll try to check later today. I know we run at about 2000 RPM at 62 MPH on our 2005 SE. I wanna say we are at somewhere between 75-80 MPH when we hit 2500 RPM.

dromedarius · May 2006

I didn't go over 67 MPH, but for reference, at 67 it was turning about 2150 RPM (looked to be halfway between 2100 and 2200...).

joeyd2 · May 2006

For the first 1500 miles I was very easy on the gas, and was getting 22-23 mpg. After that I went back to normal, not too hard or easy. Now it is 25-26 mpg. On one long trip it was 28 mpg. I hit 25k about 78 mph. Overall mpg is better than my 2000ex stick.

kipk · May 2006

Your concept of "Normal" driving is probably considered painfully slow to someone like my wife.

Whatever you are doing is obviously working.

kipk · May 2006

Then apparently they use that 5th gear as an overdrive for the overdrive.

You are turning about 2150 and our 4 speed is turning 2500 at 67.

The 5 speed doesn't appear to be helping much in the way of miles per gallon. The 5 speeds seem to be getting about what our 4 speed gets. Although it should help with engine longevity!

I was hoping they would have worked it "INTO" the tranny gear ratios to get a bit better performance, say from 0 to 60. With our 4 speed the engine seems to drop off the POWER CURVE momentarily after each shift. Seems to be a second or two before the GROWL comes back.

Is your's a 4wd? Wondering if there is any difference between the 2WD and 4WD gearing!

Thanks,
Kip

dromedarius · May 2006

First, there is no difference in gearing between 2wd and 4wd CRVs. Below are the gear ratios for the 5 spd and 4 spd automatics. There was a small increase in MPG when the change was made to the 5 spd (1 MPG in both city and hwy), and it looks to me at first glance this would be more apparent when the terrain is more hilly, or when making passes, due to third gear being slightly higher.

1st 2.652
2nd 1.517
3rd 1.037
4th 0.738
5th 0.566
Reverse 2
Final Gear Ratio 4.438

1st 2.684
2nd 1.535
3rd 0.974
4th 0.638
Reverse 2

Final Gear Ratio 4.438

saabgirl · May 2006

Looks like my 2005 EX auto is doing 78 mph at 2500 rpm. Traffic on I-84 wasn't cooperative, so I could be off a click on the conservative side.

kipk · May 2006

How do you come up with all this NEAT STUFF?
Thank you!

Looks like they did manage to work 5th into as well as onto the overall.

As the gears are closer together, it may be enough to stay on the "Growl" when a shift takes place.

I agree with you about the hilly stuff. Out 4spd will often drop back to 3rd on Xway Hills. Although the 5spd 5th would be more apt to downshift, it's 4th just might be just enough to keep from shifting down to 3rd, most of the time.

Kip

blueiedgod · May 2006

The 5 speeds seem to be getting about what our 4 speed gets. Although it should help with engine longevity!

Actually, not taking a Honda engine to the redline is what shortens Honda engine's longevity. It is designed to be run at high RPM's.

Honda CR-V Real World MPG

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