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The good thing about today was that I decided I think I prefer the '02 MPV better than the Villagers I have looked at. My dealer friend (who normally does not buy MPVs because they don't sell well in my town) will now be looking for '02 MPVs at the auctions for me.
They fall on their face at the auctions.
I think that's true of all minivans aside from Siennas and Odysseys.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
They fall on their face at the auctions.
That should help my dealer friend find me a good deal, and still make a little money himself.
-Jason
While it is not my preferred option to buy a vehicle from Ebay, here is an '02 MPV LX with 72,800 miles that is only 3 hours away and has a buy it now of $8,400 and ends in 2 days. I don't know what the reserve is. It seems like a much better deal than the one that I recently test drove at the closest dealer that had a used MPV in stock, which was 1.5 hours away. The one on ebay has 10K fewer miles and better options such as CD changer and power driver's seat. The big problem is that you can't judge the cosmetic or mechanical condition of a van on ebay.
Is this really a good deal? (assuming everything checks out OK)
Is there a price point where I should take a chance on it?
I will probably not bid on it and will wait until my dealer friend has a chance to hit the auctions for a few weeks to find as good a deal. I am really using this ebay van as a point of reference more than anything.
I average 20-22,000 miles a year on my cars. I also drive an SUV because I carry a lot of video and photographic equipment because of my work. I currently drive a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. I generally buy used cars; I try to buy them 2-3 years old with low miles (usually 20-32,000 miles on them).
The problem I have is that I usually reach or approach that magic 100,000 mile point in about 3 years. At this point I either have to trade (and get a paltry amount on the trade) for something with lower miles or decide if I am going to keep it and run it in the ground. What is your advice on the most cost effective way to buy vehicles from now on? Is leasing a viable option?
What medium sized SUV'S (one WITHOUT a 3rd row seat) would you recommend that can take the mileage and that hold their resale value the best? I was considering the choice between another Pathfinder, the Toyota 4Runner, and the Lexus RX300 or RX330. Which ones are the best in gas mileage?
Thanks!!
Seriously, though, how about an Outback or Legacy wagon?
-Mathias
Trade-in value with that many miles is probably in the high $6k to maybe $7k range. So $8400 is a decent deal, but not a steal of a deal worth taking risks over, I don't think.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
How well does the AWD in these cars work in the snow and ice?
What's the best value in an AWD car?
What could I expect to pay for a Vibe AWD with average miles for its age?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
So if I decide to waste money on an AWD wagon, what should I look at?
I've seen some private party ads for a couple of Subarus. One is a 2000 Outback with 118K miles. Not sure of all the options since the ad did not list much. Asking $4,500 which seems like a good deal relative to TMV and KBB (assuming it is in good condition). The other is a '95 Legacy LS AWD sedan with 128K miles and is described as loaded. Asking price of $3,200, which seems a little high when compared to TMV. Any thoughts on the value and reliability of these?
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
How do you decide when it's time to sell on of the vehicles in your fleet and buy something new ?
I got a great deal on an used 03 Sable (prior rental) a couple of years ago. But since I drive it quite alot the car now has 65k miles and is going up by around 20k miles per year. The car has been great so far - no problems and since I bought the car cheaply my cost per mile has been low. I am convinced that lightly used late model ex-rental cars are the way to go to minimize costs per mile.
So if I want to optimize vehicle costs/up time and avoid costly major repairs when should I plan on trading for a new(er) car.
I have some ideas of my own but would enjoy anyones enlightened comments on this issue
Before I get started, there are two types of "fleet vehicles" - executive vehicles and service vehicles.
Executive vehicles are compensation vehicles. the company president wants a BMW, we gets a BMW. He keeps it as long as he wants and gets rid of it when he wants. In these cases, we try to keep the cars for four years unless 1) they mile up the vehicles (several have 50+ mile commutes) or 2) the vehicles are unreliable (read Volvo and Saab). Also, since we are having a good year, we bend the rules and allow sunroofs and leather.
As you can guess, cost per mile is not a consideration. my only concern is that we set up the lease in a manner that we can sell the car after three years at or above the capitalizes cost. Also, occcasionally, I add options over the base models that are essential for resale (leather in luxury cars and 3rd row seats in SUVs).
For service vehicles, we do four years **OR** 70k miles. That means some people get a new car in 30 months and others in four years.
These are rough figures. In 70k miles, we generally have no problems.
Now to your question. If I had my own business and I was going to run up 30k miles per year, what would I do?
I would look for two year old models that are unpopular in the market - Taurus/Sable is a classic example, and drive the car until 150k and dump it. As the car miles up (about 120k miles), I would go talk to my local Enterprise Car Rental place and work with him as a "second" car. Those guys will often give you a good deal when your car is down (I negotated $16/day for the manager's choice which could be a Ford Aspire or a Cadillac Escalade depeding on this leftovers that day.
If you are in an image position - i.e., entertaining customers, I might upgrade to a Lexus and run the car to 200k. That WILL cost you more per mile but used Lexus that are maintained do very well.
One more thing. The critical thing about miling up any car is that you maintain the car religiously. I am convinced that at least some of the quality delta between Honda and the domestics comes from the practice of many Honda owners of returning their car to a dealership for regularly scheduled maintenance ON TIME.
The only break down that I have had in 116k miles with my current Oldsmobile occurred on the first COLD December morning in December 2003. I had been scheuled to take the car in for a tune up and battery on Saturday. I cancelled to go to a football game. Three days later I was having it towed into a shop.
That is probably more than you want but I feel pretty strongly on this subject.
Amen. I am glad to hear someone in the know vocalize that. I've often felt that's the difference for many models or cars. Foreign buyers are often intimidated by the dealership so they're afraid NOT to the take the car in when those services are due.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Great point....Back in the early 80's when Honda really took off I can remember the dealers drilling routine maintance into the heads of consumers. They implied the warranty would be voided if they didnt do everything at the dealership on time. Folks bought it hook, line and sinker. Honda wasn't the only one doing it but I had first hand experience with Honda. I doubt it still happens since consumers are a bit more enlightened ....but in general import buyers are a little more dialed into routine maintance. OTOH, I have seen domestics that have gone 40K without an oil change, just add some when you need it...very few imports could handle that kind of abuse..
One thing, though, is that the regular maintenance was expensive! $300 or $400 for the 30K service, stuff like that. Was a real good money maker for the dealers, I should imagine.
That's only if you got sucked into the dealer's maintenance schedule. If you follow the manual, its FAR less than that. This is true of most dealers, though, regardless of manufacturer.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Some people, including myself like to take better care of their cars than that.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My boss and I bought 1980 Chevettes. His conked out after 70k. He had not changed the oil at all. He had an Olds Toronado and just topped off the tank. The larger engine could handle the abuse.
I made 100k easily with frequent oil changes.
Smaller engines - like those in the early imports - can't handle the abuse.
Maybe some of that is pay me now or pay me later.
Current Accord is at 112K. Ody just about to turn 100K.
That's another thing I have a problem with. If I go to a Nissan dealer and ask for a 30k service, I want what the manufacturer recommends and no more--not the $400 service package the dealer assumes I want. I don't need an engine air filter every 15,000 miles, nor does 99% of the population.
I also have a problem with dealers (and anyone else) using and recommending transmission and coolant "flush" machines, without the approval of the vehicle manufacturer. In fact, Honda specifically recommends against using them, and explained in a dealer newsletter that changing the transmission fluid is defined to mean drain and fill.
I'm thinking Subaru Legacy wagon, Honda CRV, Toyota RAV4, Mazda P5, Hyundai Elantra GT hatchback. Any other suggestions in the $10k-$12k range?
Vibe/Matrix
Mazda6 wagon
Volvo V70
stretch the budget a bit and get a new Fit.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The merc will cost you more in the long run to maintain though.
A hyundai just keeps depreciating and depreciating until it hits rock bottom. At only 3 years old, its still got a ways to go. As BR said, the merc has already begun to flatten out, so it will suffer less depreciation at this point.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I will be looking at getting something newer or even perhaps new. I do not need anything this big anymore, but because of where I live, I do need 4WD or AWD.
I also need something that will be durable as I put a lot of miles on each year...
and of course cost of ownership is vital (as opposed to just plain purchase price)
What would you recommend I look at ??
Thanks
-Beth
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
So, if you were going to spend about $30k, and your main concerns are gas mileage, luxurius interior (i drive a LOT!, over 30K miles per year), reliability and longevity, which would you pick?
Also, if i do go with the MB, can i buy an extended warranty through MB if i buy the car through a private party? And, do you know if i can request a vehicle maintenance history on a car from a dealer if i buy through a private party or a 3rd party dealership?
Thanks, i've enjoyed browsing your forum!
Jodie
The Hyundai is right out. Its nowhere near the class of anything else in the list.
ES330 and Avalon are too boring for my tastes.
Which only leaves the Benz and Volvo. Better resale value and RWD make me choose the Benz in that comparison. I wouldn't count on it for 200k miles, though.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I dont even think the gas mileage is that bad on the Charger if you get the right engine. I know the maintance costs will be less then the merc or the volvo.
In any case, mileage in the teens at these prices is unthinkable to me.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If you need something big to haul or tow and want a diesel used Excursions are a bargin and a half right now. I think I would cut off at least a few fingers rather then drive one but if it feels a need they are very cheap.
Had some guy pull up in an excursion to look at rovers on saturday and his first comment was, "oh these don't get that great of gas mileage either." His second comment was, "OMG this this thing is 75,000 dollars it is half the size of my truck."