Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
- minimum cruising speed of 75 mph but usually about 80 mph and max burst of about 90 mph
- six passengers with total weight of about 850 lbs plus week end baggages and stuff full cooler
- cold tire pressure at 36 psi
- A/C on 100% of the way at about 3/4 of max temp & medium blower
result: 22 mpg :shades:
With 80% city and 20% highway driving the my Pilot is averaging 18MPG. This includes a lot of idle time waiting in a carpool line. So far very pleased given the size of the car, function, and utility.
I'm not sure if the ECO mode saves much fuel. I'm wondering if the constant kicking in and out of ECO mode in hilly country will adversely affect engine reliability.
Kip
1. Turn the ignition switch off.
2. Press and hold BOTH the AUTO and RECIRC buttons, then start the engine.
3. After the engine starts, release the buttoms. The climate control display will flash the sensor number and then the value for that sensor.
4. To advance to the next sensor reading, press the rear window defogger button.
I need data for sensor #4 - it reads out data in degress C. Let me know how high it goes under normal driving.
You can hit off to get out of diagnostic mode, or turn off the ignition switch.
I installed a Scan Gauge yeaterday. One of the functions is the water temperature. Didn't pay much attention to that, but will get back to you.
Have you done the ILP? See page 11 of this forum.
Kip
Sooner or later the battery will run down, be disconnected for some reason, or need replacement. And something similar will need to be done. A few years back my local mileage dropped from 18+/- to 14+/- and the road mileage from 25+/- to 21+/-. After reading about the ILP it occurred to me that I had disconnected the battery while looking for a short/blown fuse just before the mileage got bad. The idle was fine, But I did it anyway. After doing the ILP, the good mileage returned.
I had asked my Honda dealer service writer about the ILP and he said it was only for a smooth idle and would not affect mileage. The service manager said the same. That isn't the first time they have been wrong.
If it was done correctly by the dealer, before you took delivery,and the battery has not been disconnected or died, doing it again will not do a thing for you. However It can't hurt either. If you should decide to do it, follow directions. It is an IDLE Learn Procedure. With this colder weather, I would turn off all accessories, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes. re connect the battery, crank the car and go back in the house for a half hour or so. Then go out and watch for the cooling fans to cycle twice. Go back in the house for 10 more minutes. Then go out and turn the engine off. Turn the switch to the run position for 2-5 seconds, then start the car. let it idle for a few seconds and you are done.
If you missed a few fan cycles in that first half hour, that is ok. The key is that it needs to cycle those fans at least twice and idle 10 additional minutes.
FWIW: My normal local driving usually involves round trips of 6-15 miles. My average MPG for local is 18+/-.
Yesterday I got to try out the Scan Gauge. Air temp was 44 degrees. Water temp was 46 degrees. Within 3 miles of driving, water reached 182.
The short trip was only 4.1 miles. I drove as normal and the mileage for the trip was 15.2 mpg. I was at the destination about 1/2 hour and the engine had a small amount of time to cool. Water was about 140 degrees or so when I started back home.
I drove as usual and the engine reached 182 degrees within a mile or so. The return trip netted 18+ mpg. Same amount of hills in both directions. 1 stop sign and 2 traffic lights in both directions and 4 road changes. Most of the trip involved 45 mph limits. The fastest I drove was 49 and the average speed was 29 according to the Scan Gauge. I'm thinking it calculates distance and total run time for the "average" speed. It was a bit disheartening to be sitting still and watching the "Average" mileage dropping. Getting up to speed from a complete stop showed 2-3 mpg in low gear with moderate acceleration. With a light foot it jumped to 3-5 mpg.
Just for drill, while the engine was at operating temp, I went back to the same destination. That trip netted 21+ mpg. When returning, watched the Scan Gauge closely and really tried to optimize mileage. That trip showed my top speed to be 45 mph, and average speed of 28 mph, and netted 23.9 MPG. So the tranny never shifted into 5th gear.
This thing really brings home how every little thing we do affects our mileage. I don't know how accurate it is. But it definitely indicates mileage fluctuations due to terrain and throttle. It also showed a 3+ to 5 mpg difference between cold, warm and hot engine.
Going to be interesting to get out on the open road and find the sweet spot for the engine in 5th gear.
Joking aside, winter fuel does typically cause a drop in fuel economy due to the additives in it; the dealer isn't yanking your chain. VCM does help fuel mileage, and I suspect yours would be worse without it.
Where do you live? Do you warm up your car in the morning before driving it during the winter?
Serously. If you just had them installed, tire-stores are notorius under-inflators. Cushy/quiet ride for you, faster wearing tires for them.
Win/win!
Larger tires roll a little farther with each rotation. The speedometer/odometer is reading rotations. At indicated 70mph you might be actually moving 73 or so. (Just using that as a number). There is more wind resistance. Also the "Effective" gear ratio for the axle has been changed by the larger tires and the engine under a heavier load while pushing the car through 74 mph air while the speedometer is only seeing 70 mph.
If the tires are wider, there will be more friction and resistance as the tires contact the road.
If they have a more aggressive tread, there is more wind resistance to their turning.
If they are heavier, there is more weight for the engine to get and keep turning as well as more weight added to the vehicle.
And yes, check the tire pressure.
Each item is not much by itself, but can really add up. Especially if you tend to drive at 70+ on the road.
When you calculate your MPG by dividing gallons used into miles driven for a tank of gas, keep in mind that (with larger diameter tires) you actually traveled farther than the odometer showed, so your mileage is a bit better than your calculations will show.
FWIW my Scangage says I get several mpg less at 70 than at 60 mph. I believe the largest culprit there is the wind resistance on the front of the 03 Pilot.
Basically wind resistance is the speed squared times the frontal area of the front of the vehicle. As the frontal area remains ( unless roof top carries and stuff are added) constant let's call that "A".
At 60 mph the formula would look like 60X60XA or 3600 X A. At 70 mph it would be 4900 X A. So 70 mph creates 36% more wind resistance than 60 mph. That doesn't correlate to 36% less mileage, because wind resistance is just one of the things that figure into the mix.
Without getting into efficiency of the engine at various RPM, blah, blah,,,,,, In a nut shell, yes, the type and size of a tire can create a noticeable difference in mileage.
Kip
Just to be clear, friction does not depend on width. Wider tires are made of softer compounds which have a higher coefficient of friction. It's the difference in composition that matters and not the width per se.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks
Tread pattern matters too. The more aggressive the tread, the more rolling resistance. Off-road tires like the Wrangler will cause a drop in fuel economy vs a street or M/S tire.
Lastly, when inflating the tires use the the sidewall data, NOT the plate on the car. That plate is only valid for the OEM tires that come on the car. Inflate while tires are cold, too.
I inflate to 90% of the maximum rated PSI to obtain the best economy and tire wear balance. 95-98% if I'm pulling a trailer or have a big cargo load.
Over-inflating your tires will reduce their contact patch with the road and that's not safe. And they are more easily damaged if you hit a pothole. And they will make your ride noisier.
Tire Rack
It was/is my understanding that a wider tire creates more friction even though it has the same tread design and tread composition of the narrower one.
Thus the reason that a "road" bicycle tire is built so that it is only "running" on the very narrow center tread. Actually the tires on our two mountain bikes are also designed to run on the narrow center "Band" or tread when on hard surfaces. On rough or soft surfaces the aggressive tread can contact the ground.
From personal experience I know that a bicycle with 30# air pressure requires much more energy to peddle than one with say 50#. And a car with higher tire pressure will get better mileage than one that is at under inflated or even correct pressures. Suggesting less energy required from the engine for higher inflated tires. Lower pressure allows more of the tire to contact the road . At least it sure seems that way to me. :confuse:
As you say, an over inflated tire can be dangerous. Main reason being that it will be ballooned so that the center of the tread is taking more of the vehicle weight than the outer tread and there is less contact on the road, for emergency. Mileage may increase, but premature wear of the center treads may also.
Most tires wear out on the outer treads first, because folks don't check the pressure often enough, and run the tires under inflated. This will also result in poorer fuel mileage.
Works for me!
Kip
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I just makes more sense to me that if a tire 6" wide has a given resistance, then a tire identical, but wider, would have an increased resistance. Other than the fact that it is heavier and so forth. Somewhat, but to a lesser degree, like a car moving through the air. The larger frontal area has more resistance. :confuse:
Oh well !
Thanks,
Kip
VA, then to Greenbrier WV, returned home, 948 miles, 24.2 MPG. Speed 60-65 MPH.
Two people. Some mountain back roads and small towns in WV.
How fast do you drive?
I believe there is a procedure to reset the idle timing on the Pilot. I don't own one, but you might try searching the Pilot Forum. It involved disconnecting the battery and then a specific procedure that caused the computer to re-learn the correct idle timing. As I said, I don't own a Pilot, but I remember seeing it when I was researching my next vehicle a while back.
Here ya go!
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x02-029e.pdf
It is on the left side of page 3.
The Idle Learn Procedure may not help you at all. However, It only takes a few minutes to do and and can't hurt anything as it is part of the Honda new car get ready. A 10mm wrench or adjustable works good.
Easy version:
NOTE: This is the IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE. Stress the IDLE part. It is not a race the engine to see how fast you can get it to warm up.
Start with a cold engine.
Turn on ignition switch and make sure that every accessory is turned OFF. AC,radio,all lights, everything.
Turn off ignition switch.
Disconnect the negative (Black) battery cable for 5 minutes.
Re connect battery cable. (**)
DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE. Turn ignition switch on for 2 seconds,................ then start car.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. Let it idle with all accessories turned off.
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. In about 10-15 minutes,in 70-80 degree weather, the radiator cooling fans will cycle. (It will take longer in colder weather.)
DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. After the second cycle let it idle an additional 10 minutes.
(The fans will probably cycle some more during this additional 10 minutes.)
Here is a TIP: No reason to stand around waiting for those 1st 2 fan cycles. After re connecting the battery cable (**) above. DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE. and start the car. Go back in the house and do something for a half hour or so. Give it a chance to warm up. Then go back out and listen or watch for the fans to cycle twice. Then go back in the house and let it idle that additional ten minutes.
It doesn't matter if you missed "SEEING" the very first two cycles. The important thing is that it got AT LEAST 2 fan cycles and the additional 10 minutes, and any cycles that may have occurred during that additional 10 minutes.
Then: Switch off engine. Reset radio and driver AUTO window.
To reset driver window:
Turn on ignition switch. Get the window to the top.
Push down and hold driver window button including that extra little "AUTO" click
Continue to hold an additional 2 seconds after window stops at the bottom.
Pull up the switch including the "AUTO" click and hold up an additional 2 seconds after window reaches top and stops moving.
Release the switch.
Now "auto window" should be working.
PS: 04/16/09 I'm now getting 19-20 mpg local driving and it is up to 27-28 MPG on the open road at 60-65 mph. without AC running and cruise on except for extremely hilly roads.. The 1-2 mpg increase began when I installed the "Scan Gauge". Really helps when trying to decide on speed, throttle position and so forth for different driving conditions. Once set up properly the Gauge and manually figuring mileage agree to within 2/10 mpg as well as amount of fuel used.
Kip
The book says I have a 20 gallon tank.
The fuel light comes on at 460 Miles very consistence hwy driving 70MPH
when I go to fuel it up the pump clicks off at 17.5 gallons and then I have to dribble in the next 6 gallons to full 23.5 gallons takes about 7 minuts just to top off. Is this normal.
Love the car hate to fill it up and at 21 mph I would hate to stop 125 short each time.
Lot of traveling up and down the east coast.
You want an extra 100 miles per tank (while not saving a dime) and don't care what it does to your car :lemon: , be my guest.
Fuel tanks have an air space built in. They do this by having the filler tube going into the side of the tank rather than the top of the tank. The air space is there for a good reason. It is possible to "cram" more fuel into the tank by picking a pump that allows the Pilot to lean to the right and/or forward. This allows more of the air to escape and be replaced with fuel. Then when the car is level, the fuel tank is over filled.
This practice can result in problems with the car, even though the owner is not aware of them. Poor mileage may be one of the resulting problems.
21 mpg is not real good for a 2wd, at a consistent 70 mpg, unless you are driving in the mountains.
When you wait for the fuel light to come on and the tank readily takes 17.5 gallons
that is about right. Leaving a reserve of 2.5 gallons when the light comes on.
Bad habits eventually catch up with us, one way or the other. For instance: The light comes on, signaling there is about 2.5 gallons left in the tank. We get stuck in a bad traffic jam or the station we are counting on to be open isn't, or....!
What is wrong with stopping every once in a while, grabbing a drink, or just stretching the legs and topping off fuel until the click when the tank gets down to 1/4?
Kip
I drive mostly on the Interstate at 65-70 MPH. My adverage has been 23.5 MPG.
My Pilot is AWD.