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Comments
Try some of the tips here:
http://resourceful.wordpress.com/2007/02/04/saving-motor-vehicle-fuel/
And a summary from the FTC on "aftermarket" products:
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/gasave.shtm
i have an 03' Corolla S 4cyl, 5spd. Mileage is between 32-40mpg. if kept under 75mph, soft footed, and shift to higher gear, i can get 400 miles out of a tank( roughly 10-11 gallons of gas). I drove 50miles once on the gas light (1/8th of tank) to see how it'd do. Made 400 miles that day. Only changes i made was to the tires and oil. Went a size wider and size shorter so i had more traction, and i changed oil to Castrol Part Synthetic. changed every 5,000 miles. car now has 85,000+ miles. I commute 30-40miles per day to work, and sometimes work as far as 50 miles away. Week i pulled 400 miles on a tank, was 95% highway, 4 days of 47miles back and forth from My home town to Manchester, NH at 70-75mph.
enjoy
The Sandman
and i just got 400 miles to a tank, filled with roughly 11 gallons of gas.
enjoy.
explain how pressing the brake burns more gas?
You must have noticed those drivers that seem to speed up and brake all the time.
They are the ones whose cars use the most gasoline.
Yes, but the difference is usually offset by heavy A/C use in the summer (I live in Alabama = HOT in summer). Heck, it is fall now, and the high yesterday was in the 90s.
It would be freally great if anybody could help me out on this issue. I have a 2006 Corolla LE with 41000 Miles in it. Am getting 10 MPG in city driving. And i tested in the freeway and am getting 32 MPG. What could be tthe reason? I bought this car from a dealer as a used one.
Hope i can hear a solution soon...
Thanks
Start with checking over airbox make sure its clear of leaves, acorn stuff from critters, etc. Air box on my corolla isnt the best design, small animals can get into box area. check spark plugs for wear, things you can without paying $75 an hr for a tech to do it, then if nothing works have a computer diagnostic check done by a Toyota dealer, not a back yard mechanic......
hope all goes well, im not an ASE Tech, and dont claim to know all, just giving advise that i would follow myself ( for those that might comment).....
What mechanical or electronic problems could be causing this? or is it just shifting too early at low rpms (less than 2k rpm) causing this low MPG?
Shifting too low, as stated... or shifting too high (3k-3.5k) will take off economy. Of course, it is winter fuel additive season, so that takes off a few MPG as well. Also, if your fuel is 10% ethanol (or, egads, greater), your overall mileage will drop at least 5%.
These factors combined, best case, would reduce 32/41 to approx. 24/34... so numbers in the teens/city do seem to indicate an additional problem. Sorry, I'm just an Analyst, not a technician
Have a nice time!!!
1. DO NOT WARM UP YOUR CAR-Drive gently till your heater is putting out somewhat warm air. All cars runs very rich during warmup. If you are siitting still you are getting "0" MPG. Even if you do warm up your car it should be driven gently beacuse you have only warmed up the engine; the transmission and other moving parts are still cold, They need to be warmed up before normal or aggressive driving or their life will be reduced.
2. SHIFT EARLY(MANUAL TRANSMISSION CARS ONLY)-Believe it or not shifting before 2500 RPMS with a heavy foot on the accelerator will provide the best MPG.(ONLY WHILE IN GEAR; NOT WHEN THE CLUTCH IS ENGAGED!!!) This is because you are reducing the engines "pumping losses". Go to the "MOTOR TREND" website and put "TEN TIPS FOR FUEL TEMPEPENCE" in the search box, and see why this seemingly crazy driving procedure really works.
I am getting a consistent 34 MPG using these techniques in winter driving with many short trips in mixed city and highway driving.
In the summer my mileage "averages" in the upper 30's to low 40's using the same technique with a 50/50 mix of city and highway driving. Summertime highway driving can yield numbers in the mid 40's.(Over 70 MPH driving will start to reduce these numbers). Even driving in mountainous areas can provide low 40's if the RPM'S are kept as low as possible without lugging the engine.
In the winter I get around 36-38 MPG (combined, depends how cold the weather).
In the summer I am constantly getting 44MPG combined.
I usually drive 80% of the time on highway. This summer I will try to get into 48MPG mark (I know how...).
One time I got 50/50 driving (city/higway), I was forced to refuel at 400-420miles.
Again, everything is depends how you drive and where you live. If you live in Alaska, 240 miles in city is normal.
Today was the first day I drove it to work (80 miles about 90% of that is highway). Just before I exited the highway I had an average of 44.1 MPG! By the time I exited and pulled into the parking lot I was at 43.3 MPG!
I haven't changed my driving habits at all as of yet - I rarely go below 70mph on the highway.
I just hope this fuel economy keeps up as the car starts to break in!
Thanks,Don Gillespie
ps- I have a 12.9 gallon tank and usually refill once I hit 420-450 mile to the tank. Normally try to get an extra 50-100 miles once the low light comes on.
Where did you get such a low mileage car?
Also:
1. You can't base MPG on just one tank.
2. All makes and models have people complaining about MPG, but the driver and the conditions are HUGE variables here. A problem with a car that affects MPG is pretty rare.
3. The Corolla will deliver excellent MPG (best in class) if you compare equal conditions (driver and traffic, etc) to other cars.
Refuel at the same station, same pump, and use the trip odometers to track total miles driven until you refuel again. Refuel only until it shuts off - don't top off.
Try a few more tanks and let us know. Also note the driving conditions, speeds, how long stopped, etc.
Obviously pressing the brake is necessary.
How and when we use the brake will affect mileage. If we never had to use the brakes, we would get considerably better mileage. It would be like driving on the highway all the time.
Here are a couple of extremes to ponder.
Up ahead is a stop sign. If we let off the gas at a point that we will coast up the the sign and use the brake very little, there was an amount of road traveled using only the amount of gas necessary to idle the engine. If we stayed on the throttle until almost there, we burned unnessary fuel over that distance. If there are a couple of cars waiting their turn, when we get there, we may start-stop a couple of times before it is our turn to go. If we had "coasted" to the sign, possibly 1 or all the cars would have been gone and we would only have to stop and start once.
The traffic light ahead is red. There are several cars sitting. Slow down back here.
Let the car coast toward them. Hopefully by the time you get there they will be moving and you won't have to stop at all. OR we can keep accelerating, then slide up behind the last car while the light is still red. Wasted gas getting there, more wasted idling and waiting on the light to change, and more wasted accelerating the car from a stopped condition.
Tail gateing burns a lot of unnessary fuel. And doesn't get us there a bit faster. Actually someone tail gateing me will get there slower. I tend to slowly reduce speed to the posted speed limit when someone is on my bumper. If there is going to be a "Crash", I prefer it to take place at a lower speed.
Running up behind someone and hitting the brakes constantly, will burn a lot of unnessary fuel. Gas-brake, gas-brake.....! Any time the car accelerates, it uses more fuel than when "cruising" the same terrain. Stay back a few car lengths and enjoy the "cruise". This saves fuel, brakes, and tires.
So yes, using the brakes does cause extra fuel to be burned. Every time we use the brake we either just used extra fuel and/or we will use extra, getting the car back up to speed.
Kip
First i git myself a bottle of Redex and followed the tips on how to get more mpg by the way you drive,and it has worked for me. I have just filled my car up today it took 45 litrres which gave me 380 miles which works out as 38.39 mpg
I will be using Redex more often, and I am driving differently now. Couldn't beleive the price the petrol is.............£1.11. 9 ! what is this country coming too we are not all millionaires. :sick:
Thanks!
Jim
Sadly, the manual is now rated two points WORSE for both city and highway.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Traditionally, I would have agreed with you without a doubt.
I question that possibility nowadays with the advent of CVT's. They are lighter in weight than traditional automatics, and can be programmed to maximize the powerband/fuel economy of the car.
I'm not contesting your claim about the manual getting better MPG, but it does make me wonder if it is still true, or at least, much more difficult to do now...
Just a thought....
For the CVT the article states;
"PROS-Silky operation, potent passing"
"CONS-Minimal fun, high pressure hydraulics that sap efficiency"
Meanwhile for the manual;
"PROS-Utmost efficiency and control"
"CONS-Taxing in stop and go traffic"
It's a great article; unfortunately I don't seem to be able to find the article on their website
But then, the Corolla isn't offered with a CVT, at least in North America.
Well, I was referring to city driving...guess I didn't make that clear. Of course, a manual should always beat any other transmission on the highway, since it is a direct-connection, and friction has all but been eliminated with roller/ball bearings and modern lubricants...and, less weight, usually.
So, I guess we are in agreement...
I have a 97 corolla 1.6 liter engine with a 3 speed automatic tranny and I am getting 34 mpg combined (city and highway driving). I get 38.7 mpg on the highway which is 30% more than the EPA estimate and I live in the mountains. How I do it? I put 4 more psi in my tires, I have a K&N air filter, and I put 2.5 ounces of Acetone per 10 gallons of gas when I fill up. Now I know the acetone mpg increase is SUPPOSEDLY a myth, and even Mythbusters busted this myth. What Mythbusters and everyone else don't realize is the first tank of gas with Acetone is basically cleaning your fuel system so you wont see much of an increase in mpg. You will see an increase in mpg on the second fill-up but it's the 3rd fill-up is when you see your maximum increase in mileage. I have been using Acetone in my corolla now for 2 years and my car has more horsepower and idles sooooo smooth now. Adding acetone does not work the same in all cars. I only get extra 3 mpg in my 85 Ranger pickup (V6-5 Speed) with 3 oz pr 10 gallons and 5 xtra mpg in my 92 Ranger pickup (4 cyl-5 Speed). I tried it in my Dad's 2008 Dakota quad cab 3.7 liter engine during a cross country road trip with NO increase at all, we actually got 1 mpg less. Like I said acetone does not work in all cars. For those of you who want to try it in your car, you must experiment to find the correct acetone to gas ratio. Mine is 2.5oz per 10 gallons gas. Try 1 oz pr 10 gals gas first time and record your mileage, then try 2 oz pr 10 gals gas and record it, if your mpg increased the try 3oz pr 10 gals gas. It's recomended NOT to use more than 4 oz pr 10 gals gas. When you start to see a decrease in mpg, then cut back 1/2 oz pr 10 gals gas at a time till you find your peak mpg. Thats how I got mine at 2.5 oz pr 10 gals gas and I think it would be the same for all 92-97 corollas with the 1.6 liter engine. You can purchase Acetone at Lowes, Walmart, Home Depot in the Paint Dept. I recommend buying PURE Acetone from a Beauty Supply Store as the more pure the Acetone, the better the increase in mpg. Also, ALWAYS use a funnel when put it in your tank as acetone is a paint thinner and the ingredient used in fingernail polish remover. I buy a 1 gallon jug from Sally Beauty Supply. I have a 1 pint plastic fingernail polish remover bottle, a funnel (the long skinny orange one from walmart automotive section, and a plastic 1 cup measuring cup with the ounces on the side to measure, all in a small cardboard box in my trunk.
ENJOY YOUR SAVINGS
I don't think that Torquecars.com mpg convertor is wrong buddy.38.39mpg is right.,
http://www.canadiandriver.com/50litre/
60 mph 39-40.058 mpg
65 mph 1 tank @ 40.059 yes it get about the same at 60 as 65
70 mph 37 mpg
75 mph 33-35 mpg
80 mph 30-31 mpg
82 mph 29.97 this is when i drop under 30 mpg
82+ mpg goes down significantly. like if i was to do 90 mph prob 24mpg
above is with my 2003 camry 4 cyl auto, i travel every week same route from So Calif to Phoenix... Every stinkin week, lol these are extremly consistent numbers. But the high speed traveling over 82 kills my mpg. been considering a corolla.
So, my question is, with a corolla, what is the mph breaking point where it really begins to frop like my 03 camry does at 82.??
Due to my 4500 miles a month, i have to trade out cars quite often. my 03 camry had 39,000 mi on Jan 1st. now it has about 70,000. so 31,000 in 6 months. So i want to sell it while it has good value still.
Any help would be appreciated
Later Caaz
60 mph 39-40.058 mpg
65 mph 1 tank @ 40.059 yes it get about the same at 60 as 65
70 mph 37 mpg
75 mph 33-35 mpg
80 mph 30-31 mpg
82 mph 29.97 this is when i drop under 30 mpg
82+ mpg goes down significantly. like if i was to do 90 mph prob 24mpg
above is with my 2003 camry 4 cyl auto, i travel every week same route from So Calif to Phoenix... Every stinkin week, lol these are extremly consistent numbers. But the high speed traveling over 82 kills my mpg. been considering a corolla.
So, my question is, with a corolla, what is the mph breaking point where it really begins to frop like my 03 camry does at 82.??
Due to my 4500 miles a month, i have to trade out cars quite often. my 03 camry had 39,000 mi on Jan 1st. now it has about 70,000. so 31,000 in 6 months. So i want to sell it while it has good value still.
Any help would be appreciated
Later Caaz