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Suggestion: for the next two weeks slow down by 10 miles and see what happens.
I predict your fuel economy will miraculously improve!
I use Costco gas in SoCal so if they are known for adding ethanol/crappy gas let me know.
PS - We may live in very different areas, but there is no place around here that it is legal to go anywhere near that fast.
All that being said, however, I don't think you should have any power problems trying to pass at highway speed with just about any car on the road today - they can all go over 80. The only time this ever becomes a problem is when the person you are trying to pass speeds up (which, surprisingly happens often). If that's the case, don't bother. It's not worth it to save three minutes on your trip.
Good luck - the Mazda 3 is a great car!
Worst tank: 1,809-2,129 miles (319.9 net) -- 11.480 gallons -- 27.87 mpg
- - Notes: Includes lots of local driving and sub zero temperatures.
Best tank: 2,895-3,301 miles (406.1 net) -- 12.389 gallons -- 32.78 mpg
- - Notes: 85% highway, mostly on cruise control set at 70 mph, temperatures in the high thirties/low forties.
Overall: 3,301.4 miles -- 110.024 gallons -- 30.01 mpg
Given that the engine is still far from being broken in (from a fuel economy perspective), and given that the temperatures have often been well below freezing, I'm thinking that a 30 mpg overall average is pretty good for a car used for a daily commute to and from work.
Best regards,
Shipo
Here's my info since Nov. 2007:
2008 Mazda3i Touring 5-speed
Worst tank: 245.7 mi., 8.806 gal., 27.90 mpg
Best tank: 397.8 mi., 11.414 gal., 34.85 mpg
Overall: 18,126 mi., 576.574 gal., 31.44 mpg
Also just a daily commuter. Sometimes I beat traffic and cruise along at 60 mph the whole way, sometimes I sleep in and it takes an hour to go the 22 miles to the office. There have been no long highway trips at all. I'm pretty satisfied.
Congratulations. You beat Consumer Reports overall fuel economy rating of 30 mpg for the Mazda3i with manual transmission. These days it probably helps if you're in Texas rather than Vermont
I am very pleased with the real world mileage, especially considering how peppy and fun this car is to drive. It's not a sports car but is nicely powered and handles well. It's comfortable and a darned good value for the cost ( OK, I got it for $800 UNDER dealer invoice after a long bargaining session! ).
I thought about some modifications, such as CAI and cat back exhaust. Yep, I have done the mod thing before, I like it! But in this case, why bother, this car is "transportation", it's plenty powerful and works well as is.
Saul
I once did a trip to Vancouver, B.C. driving mostly at 65-70mph and got late twenties.
If you came across any techniques to improve your mileage, it would be very helpful to know.
Best regards,
Shipo
Some details appreciated. Trying to avoid dealers.
2100 miles so far - worst tank (first tank) 19.829 mpg
best tank (most recent) 22.495 mpg
So far, each tank has improved - just had first service performed yesterday, so hopefully will continue to see improvement. My driving is combined and very spirited - this car does not seem to want to travel at less than 80 mph.
A while back a couple of punks in a slammed and fart-canned 240 SX floored it when I pulled out to pass them. My wife wasn't with me so I nailed the throttle. In an instant I pulled on the morons by something like 8-10 cars. When I checked the speedo I was north of 100 mph. Whoops... :P
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I don't want to deal with bad service or "denied" warranty work for changing my own oil.
I laughed and laughed at that phrase! And then I continued laughing when I thought about the look which must have been on those punks' faces.
Priceless!
To stay on topic, I filled up the other day (mostly highway driving) and had averaged 24.42 mpg with that tank - very happy with that!
Best regards,
Shipo
Not bad; I just got back from an overnight trip which consisted of interstates and rural two-lanes. I averaged 25.32 with my MS3. But I was showing uncharacteristic restraint...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Car: 2009 Mazda3 i Touring Value Edition 5-Speed (2.0 liter engine)
Gasoline: 259.556 Gallons
Mileage: 7,624
Average MPG: 29.37
Best Tank: 406.1 miles / 32.78 mpg
Worst Tank: 339.3 miles / 27.38 mpg
All in all not too bad given the conditions. :shades:
Best regards,
Shipo
70% highway driving. Driving it easy during break in.
First tank got 31 mpg.
My car's average based on all fillups for the first 60k miles is 38.6 mpg. Results per tank have ranged from a low of just over 32 mpg for the first fill up during initial break-in to over than 45 mpg averaged over one 624 mile tank. For some partial tanks I've calculated as high as 53 mpg. Take that Prius owners!
The 3i can produce awesome mileage if you're willing to drive it smoothly and with some restraint. I purchased a ScanGauge II a few years ago and have learned a lot from observing the data it can provide. At a steady 50 mph on fairly level ground in light winds I've seen 53 mpg in my 3i. When you dig into the throttle though the mpg can drop significantly.
After 4 years I'm very satisified w/the performance and reliability of my 3i. So far I've experience no problems at all and the car's fuel economy has more than exceeded my expectations.
Those results are outstanding! Are you practicing hyper mileage techniques? (coast in neutral, california stops, etc..). My son has an 08 with the same engine and is getting 28-29 around town. Of course, he is 19. I'm looking at the 10 with the same engine.
Thank you.
Those are very good real world numbers. Just the kind of thing I was looking for. You're absolutely right about the real-time mpg readout. It's amazing more folks don't coast. Do you need to be the first one to the red-light? Here's your sign!
Thanks again.
Mix was about 50/50 city/hwy with somewhat spirited driving and also bouts of gentle driving (shifting under 3000rpm). I live in Phoenix, AZ and temps were in the high 70's during the day.
So far I am happy with this result, but hope average mileage will improve a bit over time.
While I do practice some hypermiling techniques, I do not claim to be a "hard core" hypermiler. One purchase made two years ago and highly recommended is a ScanGauge II computer (www.scangauge.com). Since I began observing and using the information provided by the ScanGauge I've probably improved the results obtained w/my 3i by at least 3-4 mpg on average.
As far as hypermiling techniques, I do:
1) occasionally coast in neutral w/the engine idling while descending some hills
2) occasionally shut off the engine while waiting at long stoplight intersections
3) try to avoid using the a/c except when temperatures and humidity levels soar-say above 90 deg F. w/over 80% humidity.
Note: in a Mazda 3 the a/c compressor will engage automatically behind the scenes (a/c light doesn't illuminate) if the fan is turned on and the vent controls are set @ the 12:00 position (floor) or to any any position right of center (defrost). Except when air dried by the a/c is needed to defog the windows, I generally only use the left-of-center vent positions when driving my car. Why Mazda has engineered the HVAC controls to engage the a/c compressor when the vent position set to floor is beyond me!
4) try to reduce speed and coast up to red lights (vs maintaining speed to the light before quickly braking to a stop).
5) generally stay in the right lane and my limit cruising speeds to posted limits or no more than 5 mph over.
6) plan most my trips to avoid short drives Note: my commute to work is ~26 miles one-way, so I generally plan to run most errands while driving to, or back from work.)
7) generally avoid warming up the engine in the driveway. I just wait 10-20 seconds for the oil pressure to build, then drive away gently. In winter I usually cover my car so avoid having to scrape frost off the windows. Otherwise, I'll scrape the windows before starting the engine and driving off. Getting the engine up to operating temperature as quickly as possible improves fuel economy results in my experience.
8) I try to get into high gear quickly, generally avoid operating the engine rpm above 3-3.5k, and also avoid lugging the engine under load in a too-tall a gear.
9) I try to be very smooth on the throttle and pay attention to opportunities to conserve momentum as much as possible.
10) I limit my use of the brakes as much as possible by making gradual speed changes and using engine braking when possible. Note that with modern fuel- injected engines all fuel delivery is cutoff when the engine is decelerating in gear above idle speed.
11) Keep tire pressures at the maximum allowed (44 psi for the original equipment Toyos that came on my car). I've only noticed two negative aspects from doing this:1) car rides stiffer and 2) after 60.5k miles the original equipment tires on my car have gotten "noisy". Of course, the same may be said for most tires after similar mileage though. In any case, I've definitely gotten my money from the original tires and may be purchasing replacements w/in a few months even though the wear bars aren't showing yet!
On the other hand, I:
1) don't tailgate trucks or other vehicles for drafting advantages
2) don't employ pulse and glide techniques (at least I haven't yet)
3) generally don't coast w/the engine off. However, I have done so and have realized some improvement in my car's mpg when I did this.
4) don't drive below the speed limit when in traffic
5) don't get in the left lane except to pass
Hope this helps!
It sounds like we drive almost exactly! I've managed to get 29 mpg city in my son's TSX by doing much of the same.
I'll be testing a Honda Insight, 2010 m3, and Honda civic in the next week back to back. While the Insight should beat them all from a mileage standpoint, the 2-3k price difference can buy alot of gas. As we all know, the m3 is a whole lot of fun to drive (another son has a 2008 m3). I doubt whether the Insight will be as entertaining as the m3.
By practising moderate hypermiling you can improve mileage by 4 mpg (I'm at 5 mpg on the TSX).
Outstanding getting 60.k miles on a set of tires! I would be very curious as to what replacement tires you buy, and why.
Great info!
I'd like for my car to have a taller 5th or add'l 6th gear if it would drop rpm by 500 rpm or so at 60 mph. Unfortunately, from what I've read the 2010 s-models will be equipped w/6-speed manuals, but the i will still only come with a 5-speed manual or an automatic. Also don't know whether the new 6th gear in s-models will be significantly taller than that of the 5-speed manuals in all first-generation Mazda 3 models ('04-'09).
I've calculated that there is little difference in the final drive gearing between post '05 MX-5 models equipped with 5-speed manual or 6-speed manuals. So my guess would be that the new 6-speed manual 2010 s models won't drop engine rpm much in top gear either, and probably will be geared lower 1st-5th for improved performance and with 6th gear only being slightly taller than the prior cars' 5th gear. Also, from what I've read the 6-speed in Mazda Speed3 models is only geared slightly taller than the 5-speed in non-turbocharged models.
I have read that there's a taller 5th gear available for 1st generation Mazda 3 manual transmission models through the aftermarket. However, my impression is the difference isn't significant and may only result in a drop of 100-200 rpm @ 60 mph. If so it would not make enough of a difference for me to be willing to spend the $$ to purchase the part & pay for installation.
From what I've heard late model four-cylinder Accords can be very fuel efficient even when mated to automatics. There's a fellow who contributes to the Mazda 3 forum who owns a '07 or '08 Mazda 3s mtx. His wife drives a fairly new ('06 or '07) Accord I-4 mated to a 5-speed automatic. This guy seems to be more dedicated to hypermiling techniques than I and has posted that his wife's Accord can out-accelerate his 3s at highway speeds, yet can also match or exceed his Mazda 3's mpg results in normal driving.
My parents own a '07 Toyota Camry (2.4L I-4 w/5-speed automatic). The engine in that car only turns around 1,750-1,800 rpm @ 60 mph, or about the same as their significantly more powerful '04 Toyota Sienna V-6 (3.4L w/5-speed automatic). The Camry's tall gearing is very nice on flat roads, but at the slightest hint of a hill the car's transmission tends to down and upshift a lot. While the tendency to shift so much at highway speeds can be somewhat aggravating, I'd rather have the option of a tall top-gear for flat roads cruising even if the transmission does tend to shift a lot when roads aren't relatively flat.
You can always manually shift out of 5th gear to reduce the amount of shifting when the roads are less than flat!
All of my car's results are posted at www.brianbauer.org. Look for 2005 Mazda3, 2.0L manual transmission. My car's results are the ones listed for Chesterfield, VA.
Before choosing to purchase my 3i I researched fuel economy results for both engines (2.0L and 2.3L) w/manual transmissions. Haven't regretted choosing the 3i's 2.0L engine over the 3s's 2.3L. Although the difference in performance is relatively minor between the two engines @ less than 15 hp, the difference in real-world fuel economy results can be significant.
Btw, my car still has the original brake pads AND the original equipment tires (16" 205/55 Toyos)! Although the tires are getting close to needing replacements, when recently rotating them I observed that the brake pads are only about half worn out.
Needless to say, in general I drive my 3i fairly gently.
I was very interested in the Mazda 3, but the SO wanted something larger. I really wish Mazda would put their excellent 2.0 engine in the hatch as an efficient hatch back would have been hard to resist.
By the same token I would have also been very interested in the 6 wagon if it had the 4-cyl. For some reason Mazda thinks that their most efficiently packaged cars (hatches and wagons) need their least efficient engines. In the case of the Mazda 6 V-6 it actually gets worse EPA mpg than our V-6 minivan - could never convince the wife to go that way.
Anyway I would love to see a 2.0 hatch with a six speed MT. Great mileage with lots of flexibility, but I don't think it will happen. They would rather sell SUV's to the people that want cargo room - more profit.
I agree that it sure would be nice if Mazda would offer their Mazda3 hatchback equipped with the 2.0L engine and 6-speed manual. Also agree that it's not likely to happen though.
Mazda also offers the 3 equipped with a diesel engine in other countries and from what I've read this engine produces significantly more torque than either of the normally aspirated gas engines available in the U.S., yet is capable of producing fuel economy results above 50 mpg. Of course, it's a costly endeavor for an auto manufacturer to design and certify a diesel engine that will meet EPA standards here in the U.S. Also, since the Mazda3 is generally marketed here as a sports-oriented vehicle, a diesel-engine version probably wouldn't be a huge seller here unless fuel prices rise above $5/gallon again.
In any case I've been very satisfied w/my '05 3i mtx and wouldn't hesitate to buy another Mazda sometime in the future.
I'd really like to own an MX-5 after the kids are out of the house!
It's a far cry from the days of my '93 Civic getting 40mpg even during 80mph highway treks, but the Mazda is a lot more fun (and comfortable)!
75% highway driving 65-70 mph.
3i- With 7,800 miles on the car the "i" is averaging 35-36 mpg with 39 being the highest achieved and 32 being the lowest.
3s- With 4,000 miles on the car it is averaging 31-32 mpg.
Running Motorcraft 5w-20 Synthetic Blend oil in both cars.
It does have the manual transmission but I am not a soft footed driver. If I slowed down and drove softer I am positive I could squeeze at least 2-3 more mpg out of the car.
The car has had zero issues (not one) since owning. I would buy another in a heartbeat (but will probably keep this one till it dies) and my sister in law is looking into buying one now.
Don't get me wrong, the 2.0 liter certainly gets the job done, and has better power and low end torque for good pick up (especially in city driving) than the competition (civic, corolla, etc.). And the gas mileage is incredible, very underrated by Mazda. My girlfriend has an iSport and is getting 34 MPG city and 43 MPG highway! Real world results for the 2.5 liter engine, however, are pretty accurate to the ratings, though reviews have claimed that driving it hard hardly decreases the fuel consumption.
Just some things to think about. The 2.5 liter DEFINITELY has much more power, about 50% more. But it's up to your priorities, efficiency or performance, that ultimately determines the decision when purchasing. I'll probably go with the 2.0 liter iTouring model and spend the few grand I save over several years on gas and get a sound system and dvd/nav touch screen in the dash.
And there's my 2 cents.
I'm unfamiliar with corksport and have no idea if their figures are reliable, but since drivetrain power losses s/b similar between two Mazda 3 models I find the differences in crankshaft vs. "at the wheel" results for the two engines out of sync based on the figures you quoted. The 2.5 L is rated by Mazda at 167 hp and 168 lb/ft at the crank and Mazda's published specifications for the 2.0 L and 2.3 L engines models are as follows:
2.0 L: 148 bhp & 135 lbf•ft
2.3 L: 156 bhp & 150 lbf•ft
2.3 L MZR DISI Turbo: Mazdaspeed3: 263 bhp & 280 lbf•ft
So the 2.3 L is rated for just 8 hp and 15 ft/lb more than the 2.0 L. My lawn mower puts out more than that!
The 2.5 L of course does better with 19 hp and 33 lb/ft over the 2.0 L. A 19 hp advantage still is hardly earth-shattering, but I can understand how an additional 33 lb/ft could be enough to be appreciated in a small car like the 3. Of course, the 2010 modes ARE also heavier than first generation models too and from what I've read differences in real-world performance between '04-'09 2.3 L models and 2010 3s models w/the new 2.5 L engines are negligible.
The figures you cited from corksport indicate the 2.0 L engine lost 30 hp and 25 lb/ft to driveline losses from engine to the front wheels, but the 2.5 L only lost 9 hp and 6 lb/ft? If so then either the 2.0 L may have been a poorly running example or the 2.5 L could have been a ringer since driveline losses between the two should have been similar (imo). From what I've read a 10%-12% loss from cranshaft to the wheels is fairly common.
148 hp x 10% = ~ 15 hp...which would result in 133 hp at the wheel for the 2.0 L
167 hp x 10% = 17 hp...which would leave 150 hp at the wheel for the 2.5 L
So the corksport figures don't make sense. If anything, the 2.5 L should have lost more power from crankshaft to wheel vs. the 2.0 L...not less.
In any case, when browsing the Mazda 3 forums I've read where real-world results have shown a stock 2.0 L mtx can produce n e.t within a 1/2 second of a stock 2.3 L mtx in the quarter. Of course differences in driver experience could easily make more difference than that.
If bragging rights or racing for pinks is important to you a ½ second difference in the quarter or from 0-60 may be significant. But during my day-to-day commutes I could care less about a ½ second difference for rarely do I need maximum performance from my 3i's 2.0 L anyhow. However, when I have the 2.0 L has been more than powerful enough for my needs. I'd also like pit my 3i mtx against someone with an equally stock 3s w/the 2.3 L atx . If more than a car length separated us by the end of the quarter mile I'd be very surprised.
In any case, if I wanted high performance in a 3 I'd bypass a 3s motivated by a normally aspirated 2.3 or 2.5 L engines and choose a Speed 3 anyhow.
It all comes down to what's more important to you. For me, I'd rather pay 25% less at the pump for 99.9% of my driving in lieu of paying at the pump all the time just to have a hair more performance available for the other .1% when I may want to floor the pedal.
Well argued. You are not alone!
Best regards,
Shipo
To-date my overall average since purchasing my 3i on 3/1/05 based on all miles driven and gallons purchased is 38.81 mpg (67,771.5 miles/1,746.282 gallons).
I now average over 40-42 mpg per tank during the warmer months and in the high 30's (38-39 mpg) even when it's cold outside.
I just got out of a car with 300 HP and I was averaging 21-22 mpg per tank in mostly mixed driving. With my 07 Cooper S I got 30 MPG without trying. Both cars I beat on with WOT, lots of high RPM shifts. Yet with the mazda I'm shifting at 2 RPM, no WOT and seeing 20 MPG. What gives?
When equipped with the larger engines (2.3L & 2.5L) the Mazda 3 has developed a reputation for producing relatively poor fuel economy results...especially when these engines are mated to automatic transmissions.
Admittedly my results with a 3i (2.0L & 5-speed manual) are superior to what most 3i owners have been reporting too. However there are other owners of essentially the same model who have reported results which have been similar or even superior to mine from time-to-time. In any case it's fairly common for 3i mtx owners to report results ranging from the high twenties-to-mid 30s.
Hopefully your results will improve (as my car's did) after a few thousand break-in miles, but judging from what I've read results averaging in the low-to-high twenties in mixed driving and in the high twenties-to-low 30's for highway cruising at moderate cruising speeds may be all you should should reasonably expect to see with your 2010 GT. Sorry.
Note: you can view my and some other Mazda 3 owners' fuel economy results at http://www.brianbauer.org/
All of my car's results since purchase are posted there and may be viewed under "Mazda...2005...3 2.0L...manual".
Now that I'm working a contract ~45 miles in the other direction (the direction with 90% of the traffic) I simply drive 8 miles to the local "Park and Ride" and take a bus into Boston. Unfortunately that means that I only manage to get the car out onto the highway once or twice a week, and with winter here once again, my fuel economy is more like 27ish.
Best regards,
Shipo