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Just curious.
But when the engine is first started, the exhaust system is not yet hot, and so, for the first few minutes, the water vapor coming out of the engine condenses in the exhaust system and drips out the tailpipe. This happens with every car with an internal combustion engine, but you never see the water because you're driving. If you start the engine and then let the car idle in one spot, you'll see a small puddle of water on the ground below the exit of the tailpipe.
Did you ever notice in the winter time how much more visible the exhaust coming out of everyone's car seems to be, especially when you're all idling at a signal light? That's because the cold air condenses the water vapor in the exhaust, creating fog. So most of what you're seeing is steam, not smoke or soot.
Getting back to your car, if the water is not coming from the end of the tailpipe, you might have a leak in the exhaust system somewhere, but it might also just be that the water is running down the pipe a bit before dripping off onto the ground.
Cars that perform frequent short trips as opposed to longer trips tend to have exhaust systems that rust out sooner. All due to the water vapor trapped in the exhaust system and not being vaporized.
Found this explanation on the web:
Combustion of hydrocarbons generates carbon dioxide and water vapor. There is humidity in the incoming air, too, but it is small compared to the water of combustion.
The water vapor condenses in the cold exhaust piping, just like a frosty beer mug sweats in the humid summer months. If you don't drive long enough for the piping to get hot (short trips), then it is completely normal to have water dribble out of the exhaust, usually at the intermediate and cat-back joint(s).
Thanks!
The "3-year bumper to bumper" warranty only covers normal wear and tear on brake pads and linings for 12 months or 12,000 miles.
In August (at 15K miles) it started acting like the transmission was slipping and the Throttle Control/Transmission light (the wrench) came on. It took forever to reach 55MPH and when I took my foot off the gas it slowed down sharply.
I took it to my dealer and they determined it was an issue with the transmission electronics. They replaced the transmission control module and I haven't had any problems since then with it. The service order shows it as replacing the Mechatronic/Mechatronix and they reprogramed the PCM and TCM.
Maybe this will help? :confuse:
impressive
Now if we can only get them to design some mud flaps for this thing.
:-)
I could have gone with 17" tires but I did not want to purchase extra rims. There were several 17" tires available (Michelin Latitude X-Ice; Bridgestone Blizzak LM50 or WS-50; Dunlop Grand Tek SJ6; Pirelli Winter 210; Toyo Observe Go-2Plus). I think Continenal may have a winter tire in the 17" size as well.
Do you need them? I guess that depends on how much snow and/or ice you get in Vermont (I assume lots). If your tires don't have too many miles on them yet the tread may be OK for the first winter but if you are going into your second winter with your Freestyle (like we are) the grip may not be as good.
I have been a customer for over 10 years and will not buy from anyone else... Use them and you will be extremely satisfied...
Ford authoriized a new engine (long block)!!!
Apparently coolant had been slowly seeping into a cyl. (cyls?).
This was causing WATER OUT the Exhaust and increasing poor acceleration. ( I wonder if some other post re: water out exhausts maybe Head gaskets?
It runs great now (fingers crossed).
I dont recall signing any "no rental" contracts and the dealership said they would provide a rental if I bought the car from them; but I couldn't because they didn't have one in stock to buy at the time.
In Calif. years ago they use to have a Arbitration program between Ford the Better Business Bureau and the consumer. Awards were binding on Ford but not on the consumer. Rental reimbursement / Loss of use was allowed to be claimed but not often awarded unless the car was almost new or the problem history started early on and was not fixed. I'll check it out here and advise. I lost almost a month with no vehicle I'll buy the extended warranty now for sure.
Good Luck to all and keep posting
Bob
because as the all season get worn I suspect they will be much less efficient in the snow
Could it be a suspension/shock issue? We don't even have 6000 miles on the car. I should note that today was the first day where the temperature did not get out of the 40s. I'm not sure, but maybe that has something to do with the problem.
I have heard of the fuel tank strap recall, and intend to get that fixed in the next week or so. I don't think that has anything to do with what were are hearing.
I also find myself making trips the gas station very often, way more than what I expected.
When calling the dealer they suggested me to wait untill I hit the 7,500 miles the they will connect it to their shop computer to see what is the problem :confuse:
I do not have much hope for gas mileage improvement
On the plus side, I've never had a car that had wiper blades that could be changed this easily! It gave me a temporary fix by taking the blades off the car and bringing them in to the warm hotel room, which fixed things nicely the next morning, but I'd prefer a sturdier blade while driving. The 'official' Ford blades appear to be relatively reasonable, but I don't want to go to the dealer every time I need blades.
New to the forum, but have happily been researching here for quite some time.
We are the happy owners (Aug 2005) of a silver 2005 Freestyle AWD SE w/ safety, convenience group, and aux. climate control. Love the "car/wagon/SUV/whatever you want to call it" - it's handled all our loads and passengers with aplomb and comfort. A big step up from our previous Focus and Escort.
We have noticed one particular (peculiar?) issue with our vehicle, and I wanted to get additional data. With the cooler weather, we've noticed that the rear air vents on the floor are not distributing warm air equally. The vents below the rear passenger seats were not heating, but the rear driver's side seats had no shortage of heat.
This led to a vicious feedback loop between my wife in the back seat with my infant daughter, myself in the front seat, and the thermostats, resulting in me roasting and my wife freezing. (She was on the passenger side, turning up the heat and fan in the back, blowing more heat up front, and I was turning down the temperature up front, blowing colder air back at her through the center console) An uncomfortable situation all around!
We finally figured out what was going on (and eased back on the temperature adjustments), but haven't had a chance to talk to the dealer about it. Anyone else experience similar issues with the rear climate control?
Thanks for all of the input and advice I've received so far already! Hopefully someone will get some utility (or entertainment) from this.
I'm very disappointed as we really do love the car, and it's perfect for our family. I needed something that could seat 7, but had a low wheelbase so that I could move my mother-in-law who is wheelchair bound. I can get her in and out of this car, but not a minivan. We have a 1996 Ford Escort with almost 300,000 miles on it, and have loved it. Has anyone else heard about this, or is the dealer just jerking us around?
Thanks in advance.
The whole service and repair took only an hour! On a hot car! The tech claimed the clunking was normal and he lubed the wheel stops so it should clunk less. LOL Clunking 32k car.
Everybody run out to your car and turn the wheel all the way to the left and right please and tell me if you hear any clunks. If you do...it's normal.
That's one good way to ruin your steering linkage. You should never turn your wheels without the car moving.
A clunk shifting into drive or reverse is normal. Try to imagine the mechanism that is rotating your driveshaft having to change direction or start to rotate. There is going to be some movement of the car (clunking). A extremly loud clunk or shudder would be bad though.
It started about two weeks ago, when I took the family out shopping and we also had our first real snow fall. I noticed that the car seemed to be "slipping" or "stuttering", like it was either stalling or couldn't get traction. After a couple of these incidents, the AWD/Transmission light (wrench) came on. followed by the check engine light. After sitting (shopping) for a couple hours, I restarted the car, and no lights, but the same scenario happened on the way home, and while the wrench light went out, the check engine light stayted on for a couple restarts.
Took it to the dealer, and they said that they hadn't seen those codes before, and after talking with Ford adjusted the software that controlled the transmission - my appologies if this is vague, I got lost in some of the jargon. Well this last Saturday, we had some fresh snow, and while my wife was driving, the wrench and check engine lights came back on, the car started "slipping", and she had almost no acceleration from a complete stop.
I'm headed back to the dealer tonight, but wondered if anyone had this same problem, or any other advice.
Thanks
We have put about 2000 miles on the car since this episode, including a 1200-mile, three-day road trip, so there have been several tank fill-ups in there. We had a routine oil change done during those 2000 miles as well, and I didn't bother to mention the problem to the dealer, figuring I would leave well enough alone.
We have our fingers crossed that this was a one-time glitch. The car, which we bought in early June, now has almost 14,000 miles on it (it is a FWD SE), and we have had no other problems with it. It has been a pleasure to own. We hope it stays this way!
Good Luck
Should have the car back tonight and will post again if problems continue.
Anyone had a throttle body replaced?
It may have clunked before but its is mostly driven by my wife so I would not have noticed and she never notices such things....
Incidentally our car does not clunk when changing gears...