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Comments
You get the same reviews with most tires - there is lots of reviews ranging from the worst tire ever built to the best - it is certainly not limited to the P6
I have the P6 on the Freestyle and our Volvo. Both develop flat spots when sitting and need a few miles to warm up and straighten out - then okay.
I would not consider the P6 a high performance tire but they are not economy or touring either - somewhere between.
If I don't have the stereo on, I will sometimes notice a faint "whine" (probably from the CVT) in reverse, and at very low speeds.
I think it's normal, and I typically don't notice it (since a radio at even minimal volume will cover it up).
I believe what it actually says is "3% Oil Life Change Soon". Somebody obviously didn't reset the oil life monitor when your oil was changed. The reset procedure is on page 86 of the owner's manual. Very simple to do.
I believe you mean 100%.
The Freestyle's oil life monitor does indeed take into account the time the engine is running and length of individual trip. Most of my driving is short distance. That's why my monitor recommends a change after only about 2900 miles.
- Chad
A while ago my wife had trouble getting in the car on hot day. She had to let the car sit for 5 min, then the doors unlocked. It happened a few times. We took car in - they did not find anything wrong with the car, but insisted in reprogramming both fobs. I also told them that sometimes the blinkers blink very fast - again - they could not duplicate.
Now, after 2 months it does it again, and I noticed that when the turn lights blink fast the locking system does not work. You have to click on the fobs three or four times to lock or unlock. The keypad on the door locks the doors normally.
Any ideas?
Tnx
Victor
The short could be caused by either heat or moisture making it appear intermitent or random.
Where did you get this information?
I'm an engineer, albeit aerospace/mechanical/software, I have met several GM and Chrysler, and professor, engineers, and SAE tech articles, over the last 26 years, that state the design goal of 100k miles. It is a goal, and depending on how hard the vehicle lives its life, will more or less be met. Seems like transmissions really nail that 100k goal on average.
Today's WSJ has a longer article if you have access to it. Things must be lasting longer; the dealers are complaining about doing less warranty work and thus earning less income.
According to that article, drivers can now expect 152,000 miles from their cars, and 180,000 miles from light trucks (pickups, SUVs and minivans). And that's 5 year old data.
Repair frequency isn't broken down, but not all those old cars have needed new transmissions. For those of us who tend to lump cars in with appliances, it's good news.
Steve, Host
Thanks!
Erin :lemon:
Anyway, if anyone has had any similar experience, or knows why these brand new brakes would be squealing, please let me know. Also if this is the sort of thing that Ford should be on the hook to fix.
Thanks for everyone's input. Always very valuable.
BBB Auto Line
4200 Wilson Blvd., Suite 800
Arlington, VA 22203-1838
Ph. # 1-800-955-5100
If Ford doesn't do right by you they will hold a arbitration meeting. Ford fell to show up at mine.
I agree with trying to see what OBDII codes are being stored. (Autozone auto parts stores will read those for free in Colorado, and possibly nationwide.) Actually, your problem sounds like low-rpm EGR valve opening to me. I've seen this before. Basically, the EGR valve is supposed to only open above 1800 rpm or so. If the EGR valve opens at too low an rpm, then it makes the engine chug or possibly quit.
Mine was a '73 baby blue, 3-in-the-three, 2-door Maverick.
Bought used, complete with a ding in the right-rear quarter panel.
My first vehicle, and cost me less than a grand.
Awwww, what memories. Especially when the clutch decided to go out. What a day that was.
You'll enjoy the new vehicle. Ford has improved a LOT since that time.
I doubt that. One cannot draw valid conclusions from only a few observations.
tidester, host
Anyone else had the cladding pop out in one corner?
The curbs are not "badly designed" - in 1952 the cars were that far off of the ground.
It is not the curbs - otherwise why did only the rear cladding partially detach? I think it wasn't properly attached in the first place. I don't object to the car doors hitting the grass (not the curb), but the cladding shouldn't catch like that.
Maybe I missed your previous posts, could you list your problems?
The dealer told me to pick it up, they could not fix the squeaks goiung over the bumps, then told Ford that they fixed it.
I had an arbitration meeting with BBB Auto Line and Ford set up on 2/28/06 in Ft. Worth, TX. Ford was to meet by phone, but did not call or show, they sent a letter saying they had fixed my problem and made no plans to do anything else. We gave up and traded it off to get a way from it.
We looked the car up a few weeks ago and the ground clearance was something like 14" -- puts modern SUVs to shame. :shades:
I bet the dealer or a body shop could reattach the cladding with some adhesive.
Steve, Host
Perhaps I'm not grasping your description, but why do you have to drive over curbs?
If you are switching out that often, I assume you are leasing? It is more cost effective in such circumstances.
Sorry, probably not clear. I park right next to the curb. When I open the right hand doors, they extend over the high curbs about 1/2 inch. If there is any decent grass on the lawn, the door touches the grass. When a person enters the car, the door moves down about 1/4 inch or so - right into the grass. Then when you go to close the door, the cladding catches on the grass (rear door only) and detatches a bit at the rear of the door. Since the front door doesn't catch the cladding, I'm assuming that the rear cladding wasn't attached right at the factory, leaving a gap of some sort.
It's not a big issue, but it is the only thing we don't like about the FS. Otherwise it is everything I want from a vehicle.
It looks to me like the cladding is attached with some sort of brad that sticks through the door. I'm hoping the dealer can handle it. I wouldn't want to take it to an independent shop because I'm leasing the FS.