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Dodge Ram Quad Cab

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Comments

  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    interesting dusty!!

    ford also starting specifying mercon V for some of its truck trannies to eliminate torque converter shudder...odd that the ford dealership would put chrysler spec tranny fluid in a ford!!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    ....yeah, I don't know when this was done. I'm under the impression that my friend might've had this shudder problem a while back. Maybe MERCON 5 wasn't available then.

    I didn't know about MERCON 5. I'll have to tell my daughter. Her Explorer has had a continual problem with shudder.

    Dusty
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    ford uses mercon V in the 4r70w tranny, but i'm not sure about the other trannies.
  • peppe1peppe1 Member Posts: 54
    Just got a notice that says Caution your 2002 Ram Truck was filled at the factory with GL-5 SAE 75W-90 rear gear lubricant. This notice states that before towing a great distance replace the factory rear axle lubricant with SAE 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant to reduce the potential for the rear axle over heating.
    My question should this be done in any case towing or not? If so then when your buy the towing package why don't they put this lub in at the factory?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My first guess is that the 75W-90 was installed to reduce driveline friction and correspondingly reduce fuel consumption. For most applications, 75W-90 would be more than adequate, including long distance operation with some load.

    Replacing 75W-90 with 75W-140 will probably provide an additional margin under conditions close to the extreme limit of the axle.

    I assume this is the Chrysler 9 1/4 inch differential. Is yours a limited slip version?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • peppe1peppe1 Member Posts: 54
    Yes I have The LSD 15500 miles and the tow package but do not do any towing how ever being a contractor my truck is loaded alot for work.
  • goldberg245goldberg245 Member Posts: 3
    i want to do a catback on the truck 1 in 2 out the back. and a k&n filter kit
    any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I think the problem is going to be heat build-up from extended highway drive times, like hours at a time at highway speeds. Hauling five or six hundred pounds of tools, etc. from job site to job site (range of 30-40 miles) I don't think would ever be a problem for you.

    I'd ask your service manager for his opinion and see what he says.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • 2001wrangler2001wrangler Member Posts: 112
    I have a 03 quad cab with the 4.7L. I have been looking at either replacing the air filter with a K&N drop-in or possibly going to the airaid system. Anyone have experience with either of these?

    I have already changed the exhaust to a Ravin muffler with dual 18" chrome tips out the back.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I don't know what to make of these "low restrictive" air filter systems. Some people say they see a gain in gas mileage, some don't. Some say they see a difference in performance, some don't

    When you installed your dual exhaust system, did you see any definite results?

    Thanks in advance,
    Dusty
  • utloggerutlogger Member Posts: 17
    My service manager told me a horror story about Cummins engines failing due to use of Fram oil filters. According to him, the Fram filter disintegrates due to the high oil pressure causing pieces of the filter to become lodged in the piston cooling nozzles. Have I been lead down the garden path or is he correct?

    Also, anyone have any suggestions about protecting the paint on Dodge pickups? The maroon paint on my 2001 Ram scratches easily. With only 23,000 on the odometer, my otherwise excellent Ram is already beginning to look a bit shabby due to the cheap paint.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    This sounds fishy.

    First, was the Fram filter used on all these Cummins engines the correct one for that application?

    Fram guarantees that their filters meet the requirements of OEM certification through SAE HS-806. That means that the Fram type designed for that application meets all of the manufacturers' design parameters.

    Second. Is this comment from your service manager supported by documented proof? His say so? Or his he passing on third party stories? If this were true you can bet that Cummins would be denying claims for repairs, and/or that someone would be bringing suit against Fram in a hurry.

    Third. All these Cummins engine failures? Failed oil filters or not, based on what I know this particular engine is considered bulletproof. I've only ever HEARD of one major Cummins engine problem, and even that was attributed to owner abuse.

    Dusty
  • 2001wrangler2001wrangler Member Posts: 112
    I just changed my exhaust last weekend and have not quite went through a tank of gas yet. As far as mileage goes, it's too early to tell, but I can feel a slight power increase. I really didn't expect to see much of a difference because I have had similar exhausts on trucks in the past and didn't see much improvement then either. More than anything, I like the sound!

    I put a drop-in K&N filter in my 99 GMC with the 5.3L and I could tell a moderate performance improvement. More than anything with the GMC, I could tell that it did not shift down as easily when going up hills. This is what I want on my Ram......here in southern Ohio it it quite hilly and all those unrequired shift downs definately relate to worse fuel mileage. I am for sure going to drop in a K&N Filter.....I just wondered if the airaid system helps a little more.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Thanks for the reply.

    It's good to hear that you at least saw a performance improvement. My son installed a K&N filter on his '91 Dakota many years ago and he felt that it made a difference, too. He said he saw an increase in gas mileage, but I'm not sure if he was fastidious enough to take accurate readings.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ramforceoneramforceone Member Posts: 8
    utlogger you may find this article of interst...

    http://cpgparts.alliedsignal.com/cpg/catalog/fram/legal/CumminsBulletin.pdf


    Hope this helps

  • ramforceoneramforceone Member Posts: 8
    Just a thought... I wonder if all of those people that use a k&n filer have just replaced a dirty paper air filter with a new k&n and that is why they notice improved performance. I used one on a
    98 Z71 5.7l and can't say that after swiching them back and forth that I noticed any difference.
    However I do have some concerns about small particles being able to pass through the K&N filter.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    ........effectiveness is dependent on the ability of the filter media to isolate particles before going into the induction system. Isolating incrementally smaller particles requires more effective media. This comes with a corresponding increase in flow restriction. You can't have your cake and eat it too.

    Now one can increase flow and one can increase particle trapping on an existing system. The trick is to be able to do both within the mechanical confines of the OEM's design. I suppose that the technology in media has advanced like a lot of other things, but it begs the question why don't OEMs use something that's presumed to be more effective?

    I suspect that with any system like the K&N there is some trade off. I believe that the K&N design requires an oil saturated media. Low restriction medias are more porous and less effective at trapping smaller particles. So an oil is used to increase the collection ability of the media as air currents bring small particles through unaligned media layers. This type of system can be effective, but can also suffer from loss of effectiveness under certain conditions. One would be at very cold temperatures where the oil looses some of its tackiness an cannot attract as much particles. Heat can also have a tendency to allow the lubricant to flow out of the media (desaturation) thus reducing the effectivity over time.

    I wonder if the aftermarket manufacturers give any specification with respect to filtration effectiveness and micron size?

    Thanks for your post, Ramforce.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • scotthemiscotthemi Member Posts: 27
    I race a sport ATV and use a K&N filter on it. K&N filters for ATVs do allow better air flow, but they have been known to be less effective at trapping all dirt, specifically in very dusty conditions, than a foam filter does. I run a pre-charger or filter-skin on the outside of the filter to assist in trapping dirt down to some very small micron size particle level.

    Your point about oil is the most crucial thing. Where K&Ns really shine is when they get really dirty, they still allow good airflow. If the filter is not oiled properly, dirt is going to be sucked right into the motor. I run a K&N on my Silverado right now and really haven't noticed any appreciable difference. I probably wouldn't recommend getting one unless doing other changes, such as adding a higher flow exhaust that could take advantage of any additional air flow. I don't plan on putting one on my Hemi when it finally gets here.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    low restriction intake: it must be coupled with low restriction exhaust or it does little but allow more intake noise to escape thereby making it "feel" faster. K&N's are SOP in the high performance/racing motorcycle community, but they are always coupled with a low restriction (read: not street legal) exhaust.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    must reading is at www.dorianyeager.com/oilfilterstudy1
  • libertycatlibertycat Member Posts: 593
    The Dodge Ram 1500 was so vastly improved in its 2002 redesign that in most auto magazines it moved from last to first place in its full-size pickup ratings. The same thing happened in my ratings too. It now offers edgy styling, lots of room, a great variety of bed and engine choices, and lots of desirable features. The Ram's MSRP with leather and a 6-disc in-dash cd changer is about $32,000. It can be had for under $30,000, though, due to dealer discounts. The Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra, my third place winners, come close but no cigar. The Toyota Tundra and Ford F150 are so ugly and have such little room, they don't compare. The Cadillac Escalade EXT is WAY too expensive for most. Its twin the Chevy Avalanche is pretty expensive for this class but is a good second place alternative to the Ram. Other Ram enthusiasists are welcome to visit the Ram fan club!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    This is a somewhat edited version of the presumably Russ W. Knize original. The blatantly anti-Fram verbiage has been removed, probably to make the so-called "research" appear more open minded and neutral.

    Like the item that was transmitted the other day from the original author, this one contains a link to the "Allied-Signal Engineer" that is inoperative. If anyone has this memo I would appreciate either getting a copy or a link to the originating source.

    Dusty
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    both include disclaimers detailing exactly what they are doing. The work is clearly identified as non-scientific and never called research. It is simply an auto enthusiast pursuing an interest to the best of his limited abilities. I find this type of original investigation to be most useful. I do my own oil changes and was experiencing a lot, and I mean loud and prolonged, valve clatter on start-up. It truly concerned me because you know it can't be good for the top end of the motor. I was using Fram filters because I believed the marketing that it was a quality aftermarket part even though they are always a price leader. Since reading this information, I have tried other brands and achieved a definite reduction in cold start valve clatter. So, I don't use Fram anymore. I thought the folks discussing a reliability issue that involved Fram would like to be aware of this additional point of view.
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    Just out of curiosity how does an oil filter change the amount of startup valve clatter? No matter what kind od oil filter you get the filter is below the top of the motor causing valve clatter until the oil pump get the oil moving.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    lariat1,

    i think all filters have anti-drainback valves which serve to help keep oil "up" in the engine for fast return on cold starts...some seem to work better than others.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The differences between a study and research are very, very subtle in the least as "the application of knowledge to a particular field or to a specific subject (study)" can be a interchanged with "investigation or experimentation aimed at discovery and interpretation of facts (research)."

    (The term "research" is technically more accurate in this case, anyways.)

    But I do agree with you that whatever it is it is not very scientific. The author promotes opinion that is not supported by the evidence in his own investigation. In addition, he and others who site his work promote through implication that there exists a design or component composition problem that is so generic, basic, and pervasive that associated problems must always symptomatic. That is not fact.

    For 140,000 of 160,000 miles I used Fram oil filters exclusively in a 1989 Plymouth Acclaim and this vehicle never suffered from cold-start valve clatter. That's forty oil filters and not one problem! The only two vehicles that I've ever owned that did have this problem has been with other brands of oil filters. My son's '91 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 engine has had this problem for about the last 170,000 miles out of 230,000. I asked him the other day if he uses Fram oil filters and he said "yes." But he also said that the cold-start valve clatter has been present in this vehicle regardless what brand of filter he has used.

    There are a number of methodological issues with this work. The "eyes and common sense" litmus test is in fact totally unreliable, especially if used in a cursory way.

    Since heterodoxy and research analysis is a specialty of mine, I couldn't resist changing out my Mopar factory oil filter today for a Fram PH16. We'll see. I might, despite having two Purolators on the shelf for our Chevrolet 305, just install a Fram in that to see what happens. This vehicle does in fact have a cold-start valve clatter problem (currently has a Purolator). And I've been using Fram oil filters in my wife's Avalon since I've been changing the oil myself. No problem there, either.

    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Emale is correct. There is a one-way valve installed in most oil filters that prevents gravity from allowing oil in the upper parts of the engine from draining back into the oil pan. If this occurs, especially at low temperatures, the oil pump must re-charge a majority of the oiling system with oil from the pan. This usually is accompanied by momentary noise from a collapsing hydraulic valve lifter assembly(ies) or accumulated noise from solid lifter valve train systems.

    Dusty
  • ChrisCraftChrisCraft Member Posts: 3
    Info please. Looking at 2002 QC. Not equipped for towing, but checking veh I find it has two smaller auxillary coolers in front of the radiator. Are these for the trans-oil and additional radiator or HD cooling. I understand that an option for this veh is HD cooling and can be had without the tow pkg. Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    ChrisCraft,

    Based on observation of a towing package-equiped RAM I saw some time back, and the package definitions from the Dodge site, I believe that the heavy duty cooling is a three-row radiator instead of two (meaning three rows of cooling tubes).

    It appears that on the RAM the transmission oil cooler is located between the air conditioning condenser and the radiator.

    Maybe someone with the towing package can verify that.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • peppe1peppe1 Member Posts: 54
    Wrong !
    The base Ram has Four radiators:(looking from the front)
    Right side (electric fan) AC
    Left rear Water(coolant)
    Next 4.7L(1/2 sized)Transmission oil
    OR 5.9L (full sized) Transmission oil
    Front small power steering cooler.
    However The heavy duty cooling may say a bigger(water) radiator(pre 02) but I still have not seen any evidence of that!!!
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    I always thought that the oil filter was the first component the oil came in contact with after it left the pump, that way you get clean oil to the moving parts of the engine. A check valve to prevent the filter from draining seems like it will only provide minimal gain in cold start situations. I think if I was worried about cold start clatter I would install an electric oil pump to allow prelubing the engine.
  • bweavebweave Member Posts: 16
    I'm thinking about trading in my '00 Chevy Silverado for an '03 Ram QC. I need 4 real doors. Has everyone been happy with their '02 Rams. Any squeaks, rattles, trips back to the dealer to fix any problems?

    thanks,
    bweave
  • loncrayloncray Member Posts: 301
    I've got a 2003 Ram 2500 CTD - I've been very pleased so far. The rooftop clearance lights leaked once (dealer resealed them) and I went in to check the fan assembly (mine was fine). No squeaks or rattles (other'n the normal diesel ones) that I know of. I had a 1991 Dodge Daytona long ago - the Ram is light years better than that car was.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    I do not have an axe to grind vs. Fram. I used them for years on two Chrysler minivans with no mechanical failures. I loved the textured gripping surface they put on the outside of the can....very innovative and useful. All I can tell you is my experience with my '99 300M opened my eyes. I had the oil changed at the dealer for the first three years because they offered it "free" when I bought the car. Ownership changed and they revoked the "lifetime" policy, so I started changing it myself with Fram filters. I noticed the increased valve clatter immediately (I park in a two-car garage and the sound is amplified). I didn't know about the relationship between valve clatter and the filter's anti-drainback valve until I found this website. Changing filter brands definitely reduced cold start valve clatter. Call it whatever you like, but on my particular vehicle, it is fact. One obvious difference in the two vehicles I mention here is that one is overhead valve and one is a pushrod design valve train. It makes sense to me that OHV designs are more sensitive on this issue.
  • utloggerutlogger Member Posts: 17
    Several days ago I related a comment made by my Dodge service manager regarding the use of an aftermarket oil filter in the Cummins 5.9L engine. After researching the issue, I’ve found that DaimlerChrysler discusses the use of aftermarket oil filters in Technical Service Bulletin #09-004-01dated 5/18/01. The Technical Service Bulletin mentions that neoprene compounds used in some aftermarket oil filters can separate from the oil filter, lodge in the piston cooling nozzles, and cause engine failure. It also mentions that DC recommends only specific filters made by Mopar, Fleetguard, Cummins, MotorCraft, Purolator, and AC Delco. Finally, the TSB also mentions that engine failure caused by non recommended oil filters “. . IS NOT AN ENGINE DEFECT”. The use of caps in the TSB is DC’s way of emphatically letting us know that this type of engine failure is not covered by warranty.

    The plugged piston cooling nozzles issue is so serious that issue 36 of the “Turbo Diesel Register” (Alpharetta, GA) suggests insisting on buying oil filters only in unbroken plastic wrap. The Register mentions that one Cummins engine failure was caused by dirt and insect larvae plugging the nozzles. The same material was discovered in the filter can - apparently the location of an insect’s nest.
  • bc01clsbc01cls Member Posts: 44
    Just an owner's report here. Had my 02 QC Ram 2wd with 4.7/3:55's, tow package, posi, for a year now with 16k miles. Zero squeaks or rattles--I hate that-- and very tight yet. Great truck and I think it's a long term keeper for our family. Wife loves driving it too, despite its size it is a very easy vehicle to get around in....mileage is decent as well. Four doors come in really handy, especially for hauling things (I have the fold down floor option) or extra people. I run 89 octane and it seems to be happiest with that. Hope that helps. Also, I'm not alone in my "clean bill of health" for this truck. Lots of happy owners and service writers report less problems, if any, with this model.
  • utloggerutlogger Member Posts: 17
    Bweave, in answer to your request for information on the 2002 Ram, my 2001 diesel Ram quad cab, which is basically the same as the 2002, has been
    an excellent vehicle. The Ram has certainly changed my opinion about Chrysler products! It's comfortable, quiet (except the for sound of the engine which I expected when I bought the truck), and unlike earlier Dodge trucks, completely squeak and rattle free. Having owned a Chevy before I bought the Dodge, I think you'll be MUCH happier with the Ram. I've yet to see parts fall from under the dash as I did with the Chevy. Also, the fit and finish of the Ram is light years ahead of Chevy. If you don't object to the sound of the Cummins engine and the 3 gallon oil changes, I'd recommend the diesel option. Mileage with the diesel is nothing short of phenomenal. My truck consistently gets over 20 MPG and frequently delivers 22 MPG. Of course, that's reasonable driving. If you frequently take advantage of the engine's incredible torque, mileage will drop substantially. All considered, the Ram 2500 is one of the most enjoyable vehicles I have owned. I recommend it highly.
  • 2001wrangler2001wrangler Member Posts: 112
    I am very happy with my 03 QC, but I have only had it a month. I had a 99 Sierra and this truck is much better, except the mileage is a little worse. With my GMC I was getting 16 on day to day driving and now I get about 14, but that may improve with more mileage (Now at 1,800).

    One of my pet peeves with the Chevy/GMC's is that the upper fender seems really flimsy where it meets with the lower winshield. You can grab that area of the fender and move it 1/2" easily. I know it doesn't make any real difference, but you shouldn't be able to move the sheet metal on a new truck that easily.
  • bweavebweave Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the feedback about your trucks. I'll be getting a Ram in January when the new Hemi is available in the 1500.

    For those of you who have the 20" wheels, was the upgrade worth it (in your opinion)?

    thanks,
    bweave
  • themanxthemanx Member Posts: 110
    Is that a Hemi?

    :)
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    "hemi" refers to the hemishperical shape of the combustion chamber in some engine designs. The original "hemi" I believe was manufactured back in 1967 by mopar and it was used in a select few street cars and also used in NASCAR by Dodge. It was a new design and made craploads of HP and as a result Dodge won so many races that NASCAR banned the "hemi" to level out the playing field.
  • ChrisCraftChrisCraft Member Posts: 3
    Anyone have info on self installation of the factory keyless entry. Can be purchased from dealer for about 100.00. How difficult is the installation? 2002 Ram QC. Thanks.
  • 02ramman02ramman Member Posts: 62
    ChrisCraft,
    I purchased the keyless entry separately and installed myself. It comes with detailed instructions and it was a fairly easy task. But you still have to have it programmed by your dealer or with someone who has a DRBIII. I believe the dealer charged $35 for the programming.
    Steve
  • fonvillefonville Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 dodge 1500. Last week, I got a card in the mail telling me that if I tow a trailer for any extended period, I need to change the fluid in the rear-end to a different fluid. I lost this card and the dealer does not know anything about it. Has anyone received a similar card from dodge?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Fonville,

    At post 619 Peppe remarks he got the same type of notice:

    >>Just got a notice that says Caution your 2002 Ram Truck was filled at the factory with GL-5 SAE 75W-90 rear gear lubricant. This notice states that before towing a great distance replace the factory rear axle lubricant with SAE 75W-140 synthetic gear lubricant to reduce the potential for the rear axle over heating. My question should this be done in any case towing or not? If so then when your buy the towing package why don't they put this lub in at the factory?<<
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    #620 of 659 Differential lubricant................ by dustyk Nov 17, 2002 (10:14 am)
    My first guess is that the 75W-90 was installed to reduce driveline friction and correspondingly reduce fuel consumption. For most applications, 75W-90 would be more than adequate, including long distance operation with some load. Replacing 75W-90 with 75W-140 will probably provide an additional margin under conditions close to the extreme limit of the axle.

    [deletia]

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • silverramsilverram Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2002 1500 Quad, Silver, 10K miles, 5.9L. I am trying to determine if there is something wrong with my trip computer/MPG computer in the overhead consule?

    When my trip computer in my overhead consule says the fuel tank is almost empty ("10 miles to empty"), and the gas gauge is down in the orange zone, the low fuel light is on, I pull in to the nearest station and fill her up. But I can only get 20-21 gallons in the tank. Isn't this a 26 gallon tank, which would mean at approx 10-11 MPG I get in the city, I should have another 50 miles left. With the consule reading "10 miles to empty" I would expect to pump in around 25 gallons. I have to be missing something, but if there are 50 miles left until empty, why wouldn't the computer or gas gauge show there to be?

    Also, does anyone know the gas mileage specs. on the Hemi 5.7L? I'm considering buying shares in Exxon with the 5.9L Magnum. Any ideas how I can get better than 9-11 MPG in the city, stop and go?
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    I don't have a 1500 (yet) but the trip computer in my 300M does the same thing. I believe their computers are very accurate but they purposely leave a fairly large reserve on the "dte" reading. My guess is that they just decide you would rather always make it to that next gas station than be walking when it hits zero. Also, the dte reading is based on an average mileage achieved with that tankful. So, if you have a mix of city and hwy, it won't be very useful. However, if I'm running tank to tank on the interstate, I can very confidently run at least 30 miles past zero on the dte. In my car, this means a reserve of at least two gallons. In four years of using this computer, I have found the avg. mpg. to be very accurate and in general the whole thing to be very reliable once you understand how they designed it. Hope it turns out to be the same in your truck. Re: tank capacity, my car is listed as 17 gl in the owners manual. I have put 16+ in it when I really pushed it to the limit as described above. Once, the thing died just as I pulled up to the pumps and took 17.2. I assume this means you have a real capacity slightly larger than stated due to the filler nozzle.
  • 2001wrangler2001wrangler Member Posts: 112
    One thing that I read in the owners manual of my 2003 QC is that there is a "reserve" in the gas tank which is 10% of the tank volume.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My 2003 Dakota Club Cab has a 22 gallon tank. When the low fuel indicator comes on and I get the chime, the fuel gauge reads less than a quarter of a tank. At this point I can only get about 16-17 gals in the tank. When the gauge indicates 1/2 full, I can only get 9.5 gallons in to it. I pumped just over 20 gallons once. This gauge will go below the "empty" mark by quite a bit as I recall.

    So, it seems that whatever increment the fuel gauge, there is always more fuel than you think. This might be intentional on the part of the designers.

    Dusty
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I have the same "problem" with my 99 Z-71 - low fuel light comes on when I have 4.5 - 5 gallons left.

    I wanted to know for sure - so I put my lawn mower gas can in the bed (just in case) and drove 70 more miles with the low fuel light on. When I pulled in to get gas it would still only take 25 gallons. I guess it is better to have a few extra gallons in the tank - you never know when you are going to get stuck in traffic.
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