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Anyway, recently came back from a road trip to North Carolina for the four-day weekend. I went up to 420 miles twice. And I filled up with 13 gallons. So, that gave me highway mileage of 32.30! Significantly higher than the 28 highway EPA figure! So, I'm very happy with that. I live in NYC, however, so my city mileage is lower than others: around 21, which is still accurate by EPA standards.
Until last week, I was using the OEM oil from the dealer. At the service visit I asked them to switch to synthetic. Haven't noticed any radical changes.
On a 150 miles highway run (68-73 mph with AC on, myself and a dog) it averaged 33mpg.
Urban driving, with 5 passenger (2/3 freeway driving, no stop & go traffic), it averaged around 28mpg.
The entire trip/3 day average was 29.5 mpg
The trip covers between San Antonio and Houston, the driving condition covers mostly flat terrain. The temperature was in the low 70's.
I was expecting an average of 24-25 mpg overall. Getting 20.5 has been disappointing. I did have a little trouble getting the gas cap off on the 2nd fill-up. I've noticed forums talking about a "break-in period", which i'm not familiar with. So i'm gonna take it into the dealer. I don't think expecting 24-25mpg from a brand new 4 cylinder in unreasonable. I have a 1994 Lumina APV 6 cylinder that is getting 16mpg.
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
Do you have a remote starter?
The funny thing is, I was all set to buy a 2008 Sedona: but Bought the Mazda instead. The Sedona got very poor gas mileage customer reviews. I really wanted gas efficiency.
Every time the brakes are applied, the gas mileage goes down -- as kinetic energy is turned to heat, and wasted.
For fun, spend a few hours driving the speed limit, with the cruise control engaged, on relatively flat interstate (brakes not required to maintain speed), when there is little wind, with only one exit (to turn around). Top the vehicle off before and after a couple hundred miles. If your mileage isn't in the 32-35mpg range, I'd be surprised. Doing so would at least prove that there is nothing wrong with the car. If that is the case, your 20 mpg numbers can be accurately attributed to driving style and/or conditions.
FWIW, my front tires are at 42 psi, and the back ones are at 40 psi.
Also, the engine spins slightly faster, in 5th, on a manual transmission than it does with the 5 speed automatic. From reported numbers, the 5 speed automatic may actually get a little better gas mileage.
For me personally I tend to forget and tend to have fun driving. If you want to improve this kind of driving the old adage is to imagine a raw egg between your foot and the gas peddle.
The highway test will determine if there is a problem with the 5.
What did you get for mpg on your previous vehicle, just before getting the 5? What percentage of that vehicle's EPA rating was that?
Other factors...
snow tires
luggage rack (at least at highway speeds)
altitude
??
How does letting off the gas and pressing the brake reduce MPG? You could put the car in neutral and slam on the brakes or put the car in neutral and coast to a stop and the amount of gas used would be the same.
Now what will use more gas is quick accelaration from traffic lights and stop signs. How you use the gas pedal, not the brake pedal is what will affect your MPG.
Also, using defrost in really cold weather won't engage the AC compressor.
E=0.5mv^2
Stopping a Mazda 5 from 60mph requires doing something with about 588kJ of energy.
There are four options.
1) turn it all in to heat with the brakes
2) coast out, loosing the energy to wind drag and rolling friction, but gaining distance
3) store it somewhere, such as rolling up a hill until you stop
4) some combination of the above
Assuming you eventually park in the same spot you started from, the only source for the 588kJ is the fuel in the tank. 588kJ is approximately the amount of energy in 0.6 oz. of E10 gasoline. Combustion engines are not that efficient, so in reality, it would take more than an ounce of fuel to replace than energy.
If you chose to coast to a stop, in neutral, with the engine off, you'd have gained all of that distance for free versus the braking option.
The store-it option is what a hybrid does, only instead of rolling up a hill, a battery is used. Well, actually, a battery, a pressure tank, or a flywheel is used depending on the type of hybrid. The stored energy is then spent to accelerate when the driver decides to go again.
You could put the car in neutral and slam on the brakes or put the car in neutral and coast to a stop and the amount of gas used would be the same.
Miles Per Gallon... In your example, you would indeed use roughly the same amount of gas. The difference is in the distance that you're getting for that gas -- gas that you already spent to achieve the speed you were traveling at. In the braking case, it a little over a hundred feet. In the coasting case, its well over a thousand feet further -- for free. Do that a few times, and you picked-up an additional mile for no added cost. The same concept works at any speed. It all adds up.
The closer you can get to coasting out on every stop, the higher you gas mileage will be.
Both matter -- and the brake pedal far more than most people appreciate.
I have a new 2009 mazda 5 sport auto trans. and I am getting overall approx. 25pmg (5 tankfuls so far). I live in northern ky and when I use the auto defrost the a/c always kicks in, so I turn it off (and it does get very cold here at times) so I have mentioned to my wife not to use the auto climate control whatsoever in the winter. Now the brakes were a bit touchy for my wife and I, but we adjusted as everyone does. I can't help but think if one gets 20mpg on the M5 then your probably safe to say that in the Sedona one would be averaging 3-4 mpg less as well?
At any rate I would like to hear what comes about with this mystery...
Correct...coasting vs pressing will save you the gas...but the action of pressing the brake does nothing to your MPG. E=0.5mv^2 The energy lost is heat from brakes plus the drag of the engine (unless you're in neutral). Indirectly you're correct, but again it's not the action of braking saving gas, but if your are or aren't light on the gas pedal.
I think you're confusing being light on the gas pedal and coasting with the action of pressing the brake. The former will give you better MPG.
You should gradually accelerate after a stop sign or red light to improve MPG too. You don't want to zip off the line and then coast to a stop and think you'll get better MPG...that won't happen.
Your Mazda5 is getting 25MPG in Kentucky, and i'm getting 20.5 in my Mazda5 after 4 fill-ups. I live near Buffalo, so it's colder. But 4.5 MPG colder?? I'll find out Wednesday when i take it in. Hopefully I don't get a song and a dance.
As for "5 More's" comments, your way past me in breaking this down. Thanks for your imput though.
Here's how I drive: 1. Don't burn out when taking off from a stop. 2. Accelerate just enough so the guy behind me isn't all over me. 3. Don't tail-gate. 4. I usually go the speed limit, or 5 to 10 over, depending on traffic flow. 5. Try to get off the gas and coast some when approaching a stopping situation.
As for the Sedona, I really wanted it . I had a list of 5 values when I was shopping. MPG was on the list. An 8-10 MPG difference (assuming the Mazda5 would get 25MPG...HaHa) between the 2 cars resulted in me buying the Mazda. That 8-10 MPG difference adds up when the cost of gas shoots to $4 per gallon.
Any time the brakes are used (wheel or engine braking), energy is lost in the form of heat. The source of that energy is in the gas tank.
sbsteggs,
To really make you mad... I've been getting better gas mileage in my Sienna than you're getting in your Mazda. My Sienna gas mileage is about 5 mpg lower than my Mazda 5, both in the city and on the highway.
I kept my 1994 Lumina APV over my 2001 Venture because the Venture was an absolute piece of junk. It had a major list of problems. I had only always bought Chevy's, but that Venture ended it for me. So i buy this Mazda5 and seem to have an issue with it right away. So i'm not mad, just bummed and kinda laughing a little.
* Cracking noise from the base of the windshield when it is cold
* Body vibration at 50mph
* Uneven tire wear -- the rear wheels sit like this / \
* Rear suspension noises when cold
Motor mount and rear shock failures are also reported.
Good thing you got rid of the Venture. Watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDQrPnAhSmI
How's the rear main seal on the APV?
The suspension seems really stiff and already creaks in the cold. And i can already see the back tires set like this "/ \". Like it's sut-up like a racecar. HMMMMMMMMM. Did i get a Mazda flavored Lemon?
All I can add is that I do not let the vehicle warm up in the mornings, perhaps only about 30-45 seconds max, but that should not matter regardless. This morning as I write this it is 18 degrees out, and I would bet you are not that much colder there.
If what you mention in the above comments is correct then clearly something is definitely not functioning as it should on your Mazda, and I hope the dealership can fix this for you. Could you have received bad fuel somewhere? This is a LONG shot but I wonder if the oil is ok ~ possibly somehow it is contaminated or lost it's viscosity in someway? The same would apply for the transmission fluid? I realize that this is FAR out there for possible explanations.
1. Check tire pressure
2. Ask where you get your gas what the octane rating it and the amount of ethanol.
3. Check the air filter
4. Check all fluid levels
5. Check the brakes to ensure they are not dragging. That goes for both normal and emergency(hand) brake.
I would then, after checking the above, wait for a non raining / snowing / not overly windy day then fill the tank and go take a half hour drive each way on the highway on level ground using the cruise control at 55 mile / hour (90km) then return to the gas station and refill the tank. Do this on a less busy time so that other driver do not shoot you(lol) for driving that speed. Try as much as possible to fill to the same full point. Also turn off the air and do not put the vent on the defroster only setting as the a/c will still be on even though the a/c light is off.
I would then calculate the mileage at that point if the figure is not very close to the best company rating then there is something amiss.
ps their is not a real difference in mileage on dry conditions from winter to summer. the difference is negated by the fact the temperature of the gas is lower in the winter and so is more dense so that even though we will use more gas to heat our cars it all comes out in the wash. they used to tell you at what temperature the price was calculated when purchasing but they tend not to show that on the pumps any more.
Just a suggestion.
Air density does increase in the winter, as the temperature decreases, which means more wind drag.
I got a feeling the problem is in the brakes. They often squeak, and are extremely touchy. They may be dragging. I'm not a rocket scientist, and can hardly even speeel rocket scientist, but if the brakes are grabbing that probably would have a heavy impact on MPG.
I take it in Wednesday (tomorrow) morning. I'll keep you all posted and thanks muck for your thoughts and input.
HMMM...so if you press the brake going downhill you're wasting gas too :P
Even though it may be necessary for safe travel, or to maintain speed, energy is wasted each time the brakes are used. Unless you pushed the car up the hill, the energy that got the car up the hill came out of the gas tank. In the absence of braking, you'd have traveled further on the way down. That's the miles part of miles per gallon.
The exception to this is applying the brakes on a stationary car whose engine is not running. That will not effect gas mileage.
What is so hard to understand about this?
Here is the possible Problems:
1. The actual average mileage according to Mazda is 23 MPG combined.
2. With "only" 1300 miles on the car, it's not "broke in" yet.
3. Driving style.
4. This is the most probable cause to them for the MPG being off "slightly", the gasoline companies blend the gas differently from summer to winter. The "winter" gas mix fires differently, faster. This makes the cars start faster and get warmer faster. The "winter mix" also results in lower MPG for everybody.
So there it is. Keep the tire pressure up, they documented the issue, and see if the MPG improves in the spring.
A " :lemon: song and a dance :sick: " or " legit "??
I said the heat was free, not the air.
The air is almost free. Unless you open a window in the winter, you need the fan for fresh air to keep the windows from fogging. If it's above freezing the a/c helps too, but you have to pay for that.
Cheers
1. The Ethanol based gasoline you use
2. Your MZ5 is still new and although break in period is over (600miles) the engine itself is still fairly tight and not fully broken in.
IMHO.
20.5 MPG's rounds up to 21 which is what the city's rating EPA is for our MZ5 (automatic trans.) I own a 2006 MZ5 Touring Auto and I constantly get 22-23 and in a few occasions 20-21 mpg, unless I go on a long trip which then just barely reaches the 27-28mpg level, which is still close or right on the highway rating.
All in all, you are still ina better place with your MZ5 then any other MAV (read mini-van) because others such as the Sienna, Odyssey, Caravan are probably in the 16-18 mpg level for city and 24-26 highway. Plus MZ5's are just plain cool and sporty looking with great handling.
I wouldn't worry about it.