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Mitsubishi 3000GT help

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Comments

  • bishop1011bishop1011 Member Posts: 2
    Problem started when it would run and shut down after it warmed up.I replaced the fuel pump(housing was rusting).Had it tested and replaced the ECU. Still won't turn over..plugs, wires, all tested positive for juice flow. still NO spark for a turn over. What are nxt.steps?...anyone?...anyone?
  • pj3000gtopj3000gto Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    I have the following parts for sale. Shipping is not included

    Radiator with both fans for manual trans 3000gt or stealth. $100.00

    Stock infinity Headunit from 94 3000gt SL
    Stock 6 disc CD changer w/ carpet
    Stock CD changer cable that goes from the changer to the headunit, but still in the car.
    Factory infinity amp that goes under the passenger seat
    Everything works great, mint condition. Even have original manual for the CD changer. It plays burned CD's as well. $100

    Both front bumper struts. Make me an offer.

    1 Front side signal light. Do not remember what side, but I can check. Make an offer.

    Thank you
    Patrick.

    http://LowCarbforMen.com Making Healther Life.
  • pj3000gtopj3000gto Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    I have the following parts for sale. Shipping is not included

    Radiator with both fans for manual trans 3000gt or stealth. $100.00

    Stock infinity Headunit from 94 3000gt SL
    Stock 6 disc CD changer w/ carpet
    Stock CD changer cable that goes from the changer to the headunit, but still in the car.
    Factory infinity amp that goes under the passenger seat
    Everything works great, mint condition. Even have original manual for the CD changer. It plays burned CD's as well. $100

    Both front bumper struts. Make me an offer.

    1 Front side signal light. Do not remember what side, but I can check. Make an offer.

    Thank you
    Patrick.

    http://LowCarbforMen.com Making Healther Life.

    low carb, low carb diet, lowcarb, low carbohydrate, low carbohydrate diet, low carb diets, lowcarbing, net carbs, suger free, low carbohydrate diet, low fat, low sugar, atkins, atkins diet, dr atkins, dr atkins diet, south beach, south beach diet, zone diet, nutrition, nutrition system, nutritionsystem, health, obesity, weight loss, diet, dieting, lo carb, locarb, lo-carb, diet plan, rapid weight loss, weight loss program, protein diet, low-carb, diet program, ketones, ketone, ketostix, starch, sugar, splenda, lowcarb beer, stevia, equal, artificial sweetner, scales, pounds, inches, fat grams, grams, gram, CAD, carb counter, fad diets, doctors, low fat diet, foods, body fat, fitness, mens fitness, men health
  • pj3000gtopj3000gto Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    I have the following parts for sale. Shipping is not included

    Radiator with both fans for manual trans 3000gt or stealth. $100.00

    Stock infinity Headunit from 94 3000gt SL
    Stock 6 disc CD changer w/ carpet
    Stock CD changer cable that goes from the changer to the headunit, but still in the car.
    Factory infinity amp that goes under the passenger seat
    Everything works great, mint condition. Even have original manual for the CD changer. It plays burned CD's as well. $100

    Both front bumper struts. Make me an offer.

    1 Front side signal light. Do not remember what side, but I can check. Make an offer.

    Thank you
    Patrick.

    http://LowCarbforMen.com Making Healther Life.

    low carb, low carb diet, lowcarb, low carbohydrate, low carbohydrate diet, low carb diets, lowcarbing, net carbs, suger free, low carbohydrate diet, low fat, low sugar, atkins, atkins diet, dr atkins, dr atkins diet, south beach, south beach diet, zone diet, nutrition, nutrition system, nutritionsystem, health, obesity, weight loss, diet, dieting, lo carb, locarb, lo-carb, diet plan, rapid weight loss, weight loss program, protein diet, low-carb, diet program, ketones, ketone, ketostix, starch, sugar, splenda, lowcarb beer, stevia, equal, artificial sweetner, scales, pounds, inches, fat grams, grams, gram, CAD, carb counter, fad diets, doctors, low fat diet, foods, body fat, fitness, mens fitness, men health
  • mw3000mw3000 Member Posts: 24
    did you check just the ignition switch, that was my problem once :sick:
  • craz_e_kidcraz_e_kid Member Posts: 2
    hey man i dont know where to go to ask any questions and i noticed you had a vr-4 so i figured id ask you..... is a 91' vr-4 with 186000 miles worth 10,000. i want you to know that im also in hawaii where great cars like that go for sale once in a blue moon.
  • redcurlzredcurlz Member Posts: 9
    craz_e_kid,

    well first, your message says "hey man", I'm a female. If you don't mind an opinion and some 411 from one, I have some. And yes i know your inquiring about a VR-4.

    On the West Coast:
    Late 90's 3000gt SL Coupe's with no body damage, close to perfect interior, no rust or cracked glass, in good/exellent running condition, manual trans, and 120,000 miles on the engine, will blue book at about $10,000.

    A early 90's 3000gt 2dr SL Coupe's with some body and interior work needed, some mechanical or cosmetic defects that need servicing but reasonable running condition, tires probably need to be replaced, possibly the occasional rust damage in minimal places, manual trans with 170,000 miles on the engine, blue books at $3,250.

    Late 90's 3000gt VR-4's with these same spec's, blue book ruffley $1400 more than the SL Coupe. Early 90's VR-4's blue book only ruffley $200 more than the SL Coupe.

    O.k., the engine. At 186,000 miles your looking at atleast new rings and piston. But truthfully, I'd rebuild the whole engine. If you plan to keep this car for awhile don't wait till bit's and pieces start failing hear and there and try to have them replaced or fixed as you go. Because one day your belt could slip off and you could instantly loose your engine. When the 3000gt runs with no belt for even a minuet, bad things happen. To put it simple.

    Then, after all that money that went into fixing it over time, could of payed for a used motor with 50,000 mls and then some or 65-75% of your rebuild. Now you'd be doing it anyway. Now, not to discourage you, but in my opinion, when you start pushing 100,000 mls in a 3000gt, they sometimes like to give no, and I mean no warning signs before a major part goes bad in/on the engine. Almost like a "silent death" to some part of the motor.

    After all that info I gave you, hopefully it helps you make a desicion on that one specific car. And in the future if this wasn't the one.

    Good Luck "kid"
    ;) Dani
  • wmalangewmalange Member Posts: 5
    We have a well maintained 91 vr4 with 75000 miles, and have routinely had the dealer perform all required work. Because of having young kids we stopped using the car for 2 years, and when getting back to it it began to run very roughly, stalling, backfiring, pausing under normal acceleration, but seems fine under heavy acceleration. Dealer diagnosed that it needed new /rebuilt injectors for $3,500.00 We ordered the parts ourselves for under $500.00 and installed. No real improvement in performance. We were wondering if the car has a Air Mass Flow meter on it that could be malfunctioning, or other meters that might be giving false information to computer and causing the rough drive?
  • craz_e_kidcraz_e_kid Member Posts: 2
    thanks a lot. im a pretty clueless fellow. and i think im going to say that its probably not worth it but i could also be a little off on the miles. what if the miles were only at 89000. and im sorry about the male reference. im just used to saying hey man to everyone. i hope that dosnt sound sexist. but if i does id like to say im not. and also that reminds me of a funny music video from "flight of the conchord" called -shes so hot... BOOM-. look into it its pretty funny. haha sorry.
  • alaska11alaska11 Member Posts: 7
    Have you checked the fuel flow meter? That might not be the correct name,it's been a while since i changed mine. It sits on the top of the motor and has a black wire attached to it. It is a square black plastic part. The dealer wants about $350.00 for it but you can find it on the net for about $130.00. Any good shop can diagnose the problem in a couple minutes if that's the problem. Good luck.
  • mgtslmgtsl Member Posts: 5
    Hello my 91 3000 gt sl auto transmisson will only drive up to 32miles per hour. I can drive like that all day long but the first time I go over the speed (32mph) the transmisson stops working and I have to shut down the car and start all over again. Does anyone have any ideas. Help Please!!!!!!
  • 3000gtproblem3000gtproblem Member Posts: 1
    I bought A 96 3000GT 2 weeks ago and now it won't turn on at all. The dash lights will come on sometimes when you turn the ignition on, but then where the stereo should be the wires make a buzzing noise and the lights turn off. Anyone have any idea?
  • mgtslmgtsl Member Posts: 5
    my car won't go then it will, its weird i can one day drive all day then the next day i can't does anyone have any ideas? please help am new at this :confuse:
  • insanecjinsanecj Member Posts: 1
    Hey Im wondering if you still have that infinity amp and wondering how much you are selling it for
  • cmrp72684cmrp72684 Member Posts: 2
    what i got: 92 3000gt vr-4 twin turbo, 192,000 miles. perfect frame, interior needs work of course, and engine hates me.

    problem, car runs one day, then wont turn over the next. i have taken this to many mechanics. those guys cant figure it out. i have had tune up after tune up. and no progress. i am seeking advice from someone that actually owns one of these rare cars. at this point i could have bought a new engine outright. but since i am in the military and bought it before 2 iraq deployments, i just havent had the time. now that i do, i am out of money and i seem to have a serious lemon on my hands. if anyone knows this car inside and out, please help me. it seems like an electric problem. but i dont know cars inside and out. the computer checks out and everything with the engine is good.i am tired of giving money to idiots that only work on chevy and ford cars. i will be starting college next year. automotive is def on my schedule. i just want to drive my dream car and be able to fix it myself. thank you.

    Chris.
  • mgtslmgtsl Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know where to get a front bumper cover for my 91 mit. 3000gt sl??????
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    First off, I want to tell all of you who don't seem to know much about your 3000 GT's, turbo or non-turbo, that you have a pretty complicated and high tech car, and the very first thing you need to do is buy yourself a DATALOGGER.....IT IS A MUST HAVE ITEM and you can even get free datalogger software (MMCd for example) and run it on your laptop or palm pilot.

    A datalogger will diagnose your entire system in a couple of minutes and supply you with fault code numbers for each thing that is wrong with your car. You can then look up the codes online at many various 3000GT forum sites (3Si.org for one) or 3S car clubs ("Team3S" Car Club once you know a LOT about 3000GT's). Without a datalogger you are in big trouble because the dealership or even a small car shop is just dieing to get all your cash and believe me they will if you let them.

    If you are going to own one of these fine cars, you have to really love it and treat it with care or it will bite you in the [non-permissible content removed]. You've heard of "Pay now or Pay later", well it is definitely true here.

    One thing that I have noticed so far is that aparantly a lot of you have bought cars for a really cheap price ($2500 to $3500)that need work right off the bat, and I am here to tell you that it gets expensive real quick if you don't take care of the problems as quickly as possible......even then it will get VERY expensive. That's why you got the car for just a few thousand dollars. Think of that money as a down payment for the great car you will have when you are done..... sorry!

    I own a 1991 3000GT SL in MINT condition inside and out, but I bought it in really good shape already. I knew how much repairs on these cars are after doing a little research. But in order to get one in mint condition inside and out, I had to do my homework and pay the price. After immediately doing the 60,000 mile timing belt/water pump maintenance at $750.00(an ABSOLUTE MUST).....and a fresh tune up which is over $350-$400 (you'll find out why!), and a new custom aircarft grade "Emron" paint job ($3500), I had about $10,000.00 invested in this car. That's what it takes if you want it mint. If you go and buy one of these cars for $2,000, or even $3500, you are fooling yourself if you think you have a car that has all the current maintenance......it just ain't possible. Those of us who did the propper maintenance, and have already been where you are now, know what lies ahead for you, and you can expect something major to break down SOON unles you do the maintenance first.

    I'm not trying to scare you off, your car is worth doing the work, but you must fix it propperly. I am just trying to explain that a car that cost $35,000 new(DOHC SL Loaded) to $45,000 (DOHC VR4 loaded)is not going to fall in your lap for $2500+ unless it needs ALL of the sceduled maintenance, and probably a new paint job, tires, brakes,struts, a clutch for sure, and a BUNCH of hidden incidentals that these cars entale.

    Make sure your ECU is good and that it has been UPGRADED with new capacitors (3 of them)or it will go bad from acid burn FOR SURE. The dealership wants $1200 to actually replace it, and I think it should have been a factory recall in the first place, but oh well. You can replace the capacitors yourself if you are handy with a soldering gun, but I suggest you let someone else do it.

    Now you may get really lucky and the tires, brakes and struts are good on your car(about a $1400+ savings)or good enough to drive for now, but the clutch is a whole different story. You haven't driven a 3000GT until you've driven one with a nice tight clutch and I don't mean a stock one either. It will blow you back in your seat and you will be hooked forever, lol. But seriously, plan on needing a new clutch. The nice aftermarket clutches actually cost almost the same as a stock one if you get it on Ebay (get at least a Stage 2 or Stage 3).

    But here's the good news: When these cars are in perect running order they stay that way for a VERY long time. As long as you do the 60,000 mile timing belt/water pump maintenance and do it "ON TIME EVERY TIME", this car will be an incredible driving experience for you and won't cost you anything except the usual brake pads or turn the rotors. Even a tune up lasts 100,000 miles! And NOW you can start thinking about modifying your car and getting some real horse power!! The SL has 222 HP and can easily get up to 300+ HP with just a few mods. Same thing for the VR4. You can add 100+ HP to ANY model with a piggyback ECU and tuner software, bigger injectors, a downpipe, a bigger exhaust, and a CAI. I left out a couple of things, but you get the idea.

    I guess what I am trying to say is........you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to a 3000GT wether it is a VR4 or a GT SL or a SOHC Base model (yuk). Get that datalogger.....translate those codes.......do that maintenance.....and have a great time doing it!!!!

    Ricco
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    For one thing, blue book doesn't mean much as far as the older 3000GT's. Most of them have been modified in one way or another and are almost always worth more then blue book. You can pay as much as $10,000 to $12,500 for a 1991 3000GT SL if it is in mint condition with all the mods and is at 300+ HP.

    But it will be in show room shape inside and out with all the bells and whistles and run 12's in the 1/4 mile. I have seen VR4's run 10's in the 1/4 mile, and the record right now is an amazing 9.2 in the 1/4 mile....now that car is FAST......and worth a lot more than blue book, LOL. I bet that car will sell for well over $20,000.
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    Yeah, it sounds like you are shorting everything out. Fix the wires and do a Datalog session.
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    Chris, I find it very hard to believe that you have "had tune up after tune up" on your car. A tune up is $350 to $400 each and you wouldn't keep shoveling out that kind of loot for nothing, unless you let these guys just rip you off.

    To tune up one of these cars you have to take half the engine apart (almost). The entire CAI and intake system has to be taken OFF the car to get to the back 3 cylinders....it is quite time consuming at $75 per hour. And I cannot believe that your mechanic hasn't datalogged your entire system and fixed each fault code as it came up.

    Wouldn't you be pizzed off if it is something simple like the "clutch depress sensor switch" has a short? That will not let your car start unless the clutch is pressed all the way to the floor. That switch can get a short in the wire between the switch itself and the white plastic connector a few inches away (connector has a green and a black wire coming out of it) that goes to the ECU. It is a $10 part, and will show up on a Datalogger if it is shorting out. GET THAT DATALOGGER!!!
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    Yes, I know where you can get one. Go to Team3S, they have the full dealership parts catalog and places you can get the parts from.

    Ricco
  • copeformecopeforme Member Posts: 1
    my car will turn over, and will try to start, but it is acting like it isnt getting any gas. it will just putter and die. ive replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and spark plugs. i just cannot figure it out.
    any one have any ideas?
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    I have a couple of ideas. First, check your "Coolant Temp Sensor" located slightly to the left of your thermostat housing. You will see 3 sensors plugged in, it is the middle one. Make sure it is tight, the car will do exactly what you just said if it is not working correctly. Have you checked your AIT sensor? Actually, just check to make sure the MAS is plugged in tightly.

    Have you had your O2 sensor checked? If that is bad, it will not start and will putter too. On the Fed Specs' it is located at the very end of your downpipe right before the CAT closest to the engine side of the CAT.

    On a Cali Spec there are 4 of those suckers, and I am not sure where they all are.......2 of them are located on the downpipe close to the exhaust manifold on both the front and rear manifold pipes. I hope that helps.

    Ricco
  • tazman65tazman65 Member Posts: 1
    Where are you located? I'm also in the military (Navy). We have some great guys in socal3s.com. You can sign up for free and get all the help you need.
  • cmrp72684cmrp72684 Member Posts: 2
    will do, thank you for your time and advice.
  • scrapydapydoooscrapydapydooo Member Posts: 2
    hello all you smart peoples... i just aquired a 1994 3000gt sl with a 97 engine in it... now it says dohc on the engine... but it feels super sluggish compared to my friends 1995 sl.. is it possible that its a sohc with just the dohc plate? and also when it idles for a while there is this whispy white smoke that neither smells like gas, oil or anti freeze... but when i drive it becomes a thick white cloud for a moment then stops untill the car idles for 5 or so minuites again.... any advice would make my day :confuse:
  • astdartastdart Member Posts: 1
    does anyone know how to change a serpentine belt for the 97
  • moises58moises58 Member Posts: 2
    I have had 2 Stealths, 1 93 DOHC - 1 91 TT however my son totaled the 93 and my mechanic had an employee that took the 91 TT and totaled it. Wonder if it is a bad sign? Thought maybe to purchase a 3000GT however do not know the differences and would like any input possible. Loved my stealths and both were one owner cars, garage kept, and emaculate condition! Can someone tell me if I should switch or if I do what are the exceptions? :confuse:

    Trouble in La
  • moises58moises58 Member Posts: 2
    No, my son at 18 totaled my 93 Stealth and someone watched over him so he walked away-he did not give me any reason to not trust him and is a good kid. It is too much car for a kid. I bought a 91 Twin turbo and the employee at the mechanic shop decided to take a joy ride and totaled it! I am older and experienced but this car will hurt someone badly....IMO do not give this car to a child. Loved mine but it is not for the inexperienced driver and I live in warm weather year round, snow is a real problem. :sick:
  • tru1tru1 Member Posts: 4
    Just baught a 3000gt sl. It's my first FWD car so it's alittle different for me. I love it so far but it seems to have a couple problems that I didn't pick up on when I test drove it. The first thing is when it warms up I can't put it into first with out it grinding. I tried everything and eventually i learned if I put in into second and then first it goes in smooth. I don't know what thats all about. The second thing is the steering feels really sloppy at higher speeds like 50mph plus. It's actually hard to keep it on the road. Like I said it's my first FWD car do I don't know if thats normal. If anyone has any input please help. Thank you..
  • tru1tru1 Member Posts: 4
    hey guys. Quick question, is it possible to swap the engine from my 92 3000gt SL with an engine from an eclipse gts? I know the power would be about the same but I just want a turbo car and I cant afford a VR4 conversion..
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    Well, it looks like your synchros are about worn out. If so, you will need to replace them, and it cost a little to do that. But before you do that.......All the 3000 GT trannys are notorious for needing to warm up a little before the shifter works well.

    Mine is fine, and I have to warm it up a little before it stops trying to grind a little, but it doesn't grind a LOT or have to be put in second gear though, and just takes a minute to warm up enough to work properly.

    I would warm it up for a minute or two and try it again, and if it still grinds or has to be put in second, you will have to replace those syncros, and they ain't cheap!

    While I've got you here, might as well WARN you about the 60K maintenance (timing belt change and water pump replace). You MUST do this and do it ON TIME. This engine will have catastrophic damage if that belt breaks. This engine is not like most engines that will just stop moving forward if the belt breaks. Your valves will be bent all to hell when the pistons crash into them because of the way this engine is built. Your car will be toast unless you do that maintenance when you are supposed to!! You replace the water pump with the timing belt because it cost a LOT of money to break the engine down to get to the pump when you are already there when replacing the timing belt....just makes sense. BTW, be prepaired to pay about $750 to $800 for the 60K maintenance. It is the most expensive thing you will have to do to this car if you keep everything up to date.

    Now, if your car is somewhere between 60K and 120 K, DO NOT TRUST THAT IT WAS ALREADY DONE AT 60K UNLESS YOU HAVE A RECEIPT.

    This car is very expensive to work on if you just let things go, and can bankrupt you QUICK. But on the other hand, when this car is running well and taken good care of, it will last a LONG time with little or no maintenance on it except for brake pads, etc......so just keep a good belt on it and keep it tuned up.

    Merlin
  • allievrwantedallievrwanted Member Posts: 3
    Any one know where can I find a driverside headlamp assembly. The cover is totally cracked?
    My soon to be ex drove my car and fell asleep!!! Some how he only broke the light and a few scuffs!
    The dealership wants $500.00!!!!!!
    By the way, its dark green/teal. But any will do!
    Thanks!
  • pearlywhite1pearlywhite1 Member Posts: 8
    I have been looking for one since I bought my car, and that was almost 2 years ago... It is very rare to fond one used and in good shape. If your dealer only wants $500 for it, I would buy it. My dealer wants almost $800. Where do you live? Maybe I'll order one from your dealership :)
  • steele3000steele3000 Member Posts: 1
    My 92 SL transmission won't go into overdrive. when i put it on it acts like its in neutral. whats wrong :sick: help............... :sick:
  • joey19joey19 Member Posts: 2
    i have 2 3000 gts one being vr4 and the other one is SL. the valves r bent from the belt breaking in the vr4 it was that way when i bought it and i have the non turbo motor with a stock compression ratio of 10 to1 and the vr4 wit a stock comp. ratio of 8.5 to 1. My ? is can i take the turbos and everything required for the turbo water, oil lines, etc. and put on the higher compression engine.
  • wsteelewsteele Member Posts: 2
    hey,
    i don't know where to find parts for my '93 mitsubishi 3000gt, any help finding a transmission -5 speed manuel- rebuilt or used in good condition would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks, bill
  • qbc3qbc3 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, I'm mechanically challenged. I need as simple as possible explanation for installing a serpentine belt on a 1995 3000GT. I also need to replace the smaller belt as well. Any help would be appreciated!!
  • joey19joey19 Member Posts: 2
    hey bud i got an x-tra 5 speed recently rebuilt i will beat anybodys price i have converted my car in to twin turbo all wheel drive so i dont really have any use 4 it so ill take 250 for it and the clutch just give me a call at 417-763-2385 if i dont pick up just leave a message
  • tru1tru1 Member Posts: 4
    Hey guys. thanx for the help Merlingto. I took the car to a friend to get that problen fixed. He dead it was the synchros too. should get it back soon, hopefully with no problems.

    Does anybody know how to get their hands on a spoiler off a 99 VR4.
    I want one badly, need help. :D
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    As far as a rear spoiler, I found a bunch of them by simply using my search engine (Google) and typing "3000GT accesseries". Check it out. They have all the year models too plus some after market models as well.

    Oh, to the guy wanting an easy explanation on changing out the timing belt......THERE IS NO EASY WAY TO DO IT. That is called the "60K maintenance", and it costs about $750.00 to $800.00, and that includes a new timint belt and water pump too since you have to break down the engine to get to the belt and the water pump is right there. It's best to replace the water pump right then. Unless you are a good mechanic, I would let someone else do the 60K maintenance for you.
  • ashraffashraff Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000 GT for sale. It is located in the Santa Clarita Valley right off the 5 freeway. Anyone who is interested just post back. Thanks!
  • xocannodxocannod Member Posts: 1
    Im looking for a 96 or 97 twin turbo gto but im a bit confused about wether a normal twin turbo is a vr4 or is the vr4 a dirrerent model with more bhp?any info. would be much appreciated.
  • kenoskenos Member Posts: 3
    I cann't start my car. It turns but wont turn on. A light did turn on before it looked like a radiator but im not sure what that was. I don't even no wheres the starter is at on this car to check with a screwdriver.So if you might know my problem I will be grateful for your help. :confuse:
  • merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    That thing that looked like a radiator was your "low fluid" warning for your windshield wipers, not your radiator.....heh heh....I know it's a little confusing. I believe it was for the REAR wiper, but fill them both to be sure. I run out of the rear wiper fluid all the time because that huge back window takes a lot of fluid to clean it and the rear resevoir is small.

    As far as your car not starting....if it doesn't turn over at all, it may very well be your POSITIVE battery terminal is too loose. I had to replace mine after I bought a new Optima battery because it was too loose and my car did the same thing, so check that out first.
  • kenoskenos Member Posts: 3
    thanks i will try it. :
  • jeffrey3000gtjeffrey3000gt Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone I'm 17 and i believe i'm pretty smart in this field but i'm stumpped on this on problem. I drive a 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT base model (non-turbo). I was driving along goin about 40mph and it died just like i would of turned off the ignition. So i trailered it home and tested the spark. There was no spark so i replaced the plugs and wires, still wouldn't start (no spark) so i pulled off the coil packs and tested them with a DVOM and they tested good. so i replaced the PTU and it ran for a day then the same thing happened so i replaced the PTU agian checked for shorts in the wiring harness.i also tested and looked at the fuses and relays all good. so i replaced the crank sensor with a new one and tested the cam sensor with a DVOM and its good. i also replaced my old MSD ignition a few months ago with a new MSD DIS-4 ignition and it still tested good. my mass air flow sensor is also good. so after that still no spark. so i replaced the ECU still no spark. I'm getting fuel so thats not a problem only spark. so the only thing i can think of left to do is the MFI relay cause there's two relays in it one goes to the fuel pump and the other goes to the crank sensor the idle air control and mass air flow sensor. so i would apperciate any suggestions or help wth this? Am i missing anything? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Aaron
  • dk764dk764 Member Posts: 1
    Ok...I dont know jack about cars...ive had this baby for 10 years and love it...gotten oil changes routinely etc., and am about to get the 60000 mile timing belt and tune up for it....what will I be looking at for the cost. Also...I had starter problems last year, got a new one put in. I started having problems about 4 months later (car wouldnt turn over). I have a brand new battery, and the positive cable is connected firmly. I then took it to my local mitsubishi dealership and had them look at it. They were pretty sure it was the crappy refurbished starter the moronic mechanic put in it. Any suggestions before I drop about 400 on a brand new starter??? Thanks :sick:
  • airbrnizzyairbrnizzy Member Posts: 5
    Can anyone tell me how I can find out if I have adjustable shocks? and if so where I can get replacements. It is riding really rough and I am not quite sure if its the low profile 18s on there or the shocks/struts are bad. Also I need new leather on front seats, if anyone knows of a good palce to buy/order/ or install in the Nashville TN area. And since I am already asking questions, does anyone know if there is something in the linkage or transmission that I can do to make it shift a little smoother. Its a tad bit rough.. not too bad, but enough to notice
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm sure your 18" are making the car ride harshly. It's really a big large for the car I think if you want a decent ride. I don't think anything will solve this short of changing wheels but if your shocks are old, sure some high quality adjustables could help. You could tell if yours are adjustable just by looking at them.

    More here:

    http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/koni/koni_faq.jsp

    or for a good non-adj shock, look at these:

    http://www.autocarparts.com/c_Mitsubishi_3000GT_c_Suspension_m_Bilstein/

    I don't know whether you have the ECS adjustable suspension, but you'd notice this device on the top of your struts. This was phased out in 1995.

    As for shifting, you might try Redline Synthetic transmission oil.
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